Sticky leaves and white raid on them at home lemon. Why does such a problem arise and how to treat the plant? Why on lemon leaves appears sticky lip of the illness of indoor lemon sticky leaves and dry

All the shields have a pronounced sexual demorphism - males and females differ in structure, very often, when describing a new type of shooter, scientists give the characteristic only females, since it is that female females are noticeable on the stalks and leaves of plants, the males live very little, only before mating, Then die. Some species of males flashes are made very little - only 2-3%, it is difficult to detect them.

What the shields looks like

The females do not have no legs, no wings, nor eyes, nor mustache, but there are well-developed rotting organs of a pole-sucking type. While the females are young, the shield soft and insects can move. When the shield matures, they become fixed. Externally, most of the boards spread on indoor colors are similar - the body oval or rounded from 1.5 to 2 mm long. The body under the white-colored shield or pale brown, segmentation is not expressed. The shield in ripening individuals can cover the entire surface of the body, or partially, to be a strongly connected, hemispherical shape or bleached. The color of the shield is yellowish-brown, dark brown, consists of a secretory part and larval skins. In different phases larvae skins can be different colorTherefore, the shield is often inhomogeneous painting, for example, the outer ring is golden-brown, central - dark brown. Among the shields common in garden crops are larger species: with a pear-shaped or capped body up to 5 mm long.
In males, the mouths are reduced, but there are eyes, fully formed limbs and wings. The body is segmented on head, chest and abdomen. Men's individuals are most white and fluffy. Sometimes reddish, red-gray, light orange. They also have a shield, only very small.

Eggs of shields have an oval shape in some species extended, usually white or light gray, gradually darken to light brown. Eggs are very small, about 0.1-0.3 mm, the microscope look like worms.

First-aged larva is called vagabol - It has a flattened oval body, up to 0.3 mm long, yellowish color, three pairs of legs, mustaches, eyes. In many types of shields on the color of the larva, you can understand who it is reborn. So, the tracks of the wrames are white and red, females grow, from the red males.
Second-age larvae is larger. Her body is white or gray rear end Taurus is usually darker, dimensions reach 0.5 mm. By this time, the larvae females have no legs, mustaches, eyes. From an adult individual, it is distinguished by only dimensions and brighter coloring of the flap.
Among the few thousand species there are a slightly launcher - some females with a practically transparent body, the shield is immeasured, they seem to be vitreous; other bodies have a very irregular shape like blots; Third have a shared black shield. The morphological stages of development in the shields may also differ, for example, some tropical shields do not have the stage of the egg.
It makes no sense to describe the specific type of shields, since you saw them on a photo or live, you already do not confuse them with anyone.

The cycle of the development of the shield.

The shields are expressed life cycle. But the tropical panels and the pests-pests of moderate latitudes there are differences. They are connected with climatic conditions.
In nature, it looks like this: the female after mating for three months she lays eggs and feeds on the juice of plants. Three months after fertilization, it defits many eggs, according to various data from 250 to 500 pieces, after which he dies.

Shields living in a moderate climate, for example, applete-shaped shields, have the following stages of development:
Egg \u003e\u003e The first age larvae (strollery) \u003e\u003e Second-age larvae \u003e\u003e males and females \u003e\u003e Egg.

Females have an elongated and widely rounded end of the shield - the entire laying of fertilized eggs is under it, the body of the female itself is simply dried, freeing the house for children. Winter we have harsh and the whole egg laying is saved under the shield. By the end of May, when the average daily temperature is set about + 8C, straggings are rejected from eggs and plants are actively settled, predominantly young, weakly delegate branches, young piglets.

The development cycle from wrames to a haweling female is an average of three months. Then the mating occurs. The number of males in the population is approximately 20-35%. After fertilization, the males dying. The egg laying begins in August. Thus, the development cycle is approximately 1 year: 9-10 months ripening eggs, 35-60 days of larvae, 3 months of females. In southern latitudes, these types of shields may have time to form two generations per year.

Tropical species are, for example, California Shield, several other stages of development:
First-aged larvae (winter) \u003e\u003e Face larvae and male larva \u003e\u003e Parthenogenesis * \u003e\u003e Pairing \u003e\u003e The first-old larvae (strollery) \u003e\u003e The larvae of the larvae \u003e\u003e The larvae of males and females of second-age \u003e\u003e Imago males and females.
The female shield is usually round - they do not need a house for egg laying, the females of many types of tropical flats are larvae. Autumn birth races are winter in shelters (under the crust, sinuses of leaves). In the spring, the rods are out of shelter, they quickly taste the most juicy places and develop in the next stage of the larvae, adult individuals - males and females. By the time of mass maturation of females, males begins (it lasts a few days). Males a little, their number from the overall population is no more than 8-9%. Making mating, after which the male dies.

* Males are not reflected as much, because the panels have a phenomenon of parthenogenesis - this is a virgin reproduction, when the female females grow without fertilization (mating with males).

The cycle of development of the shield from the awakening of the vagabilities to a female female is an average of a week or two.Part of the vagabuses in the middle of the summer goes to the state of the diapause - rest. It helps the shields to survive unfavorable conditions, as the summer of the rods are dying from long droughts or strong prolonged rains. The range can last from several weeks to several months. Most of the larvae turns into females. And about a month goes to their development. The males of some types of shields of development cycle include additionally two stages: peamphica and nymphs. Thus, the entire development cycle is approximately 60 days.

It should be said that there is no classification of the climatic types of climatic types, here this is given only for clarity to see the difference and diversity in the development of certain types of pests. In some of the shields common in subtropical regions, for example, at the Falconalifornia Shield, there is also a stage of the egg, only then the larvae. Usually, egg-standing shields differ in the shape and dimensions of the shield - it is wide enough, like a Vietnamese hat, rounded or pear-shaped. In addition, some types of shields are no eggs, but females in the diapause state.
The number of lines can also be different: for example, females may have two stages of the larvae, males - three.
From the point of view of indoor flower growing, the danger of the shield is that due to parthenogenesis - the degeneration of females without fertilization, the shields can fruit, round year, Having issued about 5-6 generations, the process of changing generations is continuous. At the same time, males among the room boards are extremely rare, but if they appear, for some reason they are very frightened. Someone begins to think that this is an unknown terribly voracious creature. In fact, the cycle of the development of the shield, with the males or without, is no different. By themselves, males do not harm plants - they simply have nothing to eat. In fact, the males of the flap are hatched for the sake of a single mission - fertilization, therefore, all that they have - eyes, wings and genitals.
Hurt from the shield
All shields make tremendous harm to plants, in the gardens for 3-4 years they can completely destroy the whole fruit tree. In countries with a warm climate, in the agricultural regions, if some types of shields are found (for example, taudo), rigid quarantine is introduced. For this period, the export of seedlings and seedlings is prohibited. Fruit trees And shrubs, bone cultures and tea plantations are processed by pesticides.
IN room conditions Shield, settling on the plant, also in the shortest possible time lead to his death. To our house, the shields fall with infected colors from the store, planting material (ground), the rods are entered by the wind.
Yellow specks appear on the site of squeezing the shields on the leaves, they grow in size as the cell juice is sued, then the sheet is completely yellow or drill, twisted and disappears. The plant stops in growth, the branches are broken, then begins to dying the entire bush and the plant dies. In addition to the leaf, the shield damages the fruits from citrus (mandarins, lemons and oranges), it is premature to fall out of the wound, dry flowers.
Another sign of the appearance of the shield - sticky allocations on the leaves . The shields produce a sweetish liquid - a pair, she covers the stalks, leaf cutters, leaves, buds and fruits. It is lipped with a sage fungus and dust.
Measures to combat shields
As soon as you discovered the shield, something similar to brown plaques on the stems, stiffs, sinuses, and the leaves themselves, immediately, areolate the plant, and also check all the plants that stood nearby. Adults are protected from the effects of the insecticides of the shield, but they can be removed from the plants mechanically.
To do this, it is best to use a cotton disc and a sponge for gentle leaves or an old toothbrush (with soft bristles) for more dense leaves. Moisten in the soap solution and carefully wipe each leaf on both sides, as well as stalks. Even if it seems to you that on some sheet there is still no pest, you need to process all the plant, otherwise one surviving larvae, and a few weeks later, all the plant will again be sprinkled with a shield. For washing leaves will suit any detergent For dishes (AOS, Fairi, etc.), a shopping soap, a ternary soap, a green soap. Take a thick foam and leave it on the leaves for 30 minutes, then rinse with hot water (the water temperature is allowed to 50 degrees - the hand is hot). Hot shower - 2-3 minutes. If the procedures of soap wash and hot soul spent once a week, then you can get rid of the boards without chemicals.Without kneading, on plants that do not suffer a similar procedure, it is necessary to use a spraying insecticide. But one-time processing does not save them from the shield completely. Since the female shield protects it and the egg laying from contact insecticides - you need to soak the plant in solution, omit the entire crown into the bucket with chemicals, or by watering by systemic insecticides - actar or confident, are the preparations of choice.

Of contact preparations against shields are effective:
Neonicotinoids:

Tare
Colorado
Spark Golden.
Mospilan

Phosporganic connections:

Accomplish
Carbofos and others.

Hormonal insecticides, juvenoids - regulators of growth and development of insects, for example, admiral (pyriproxifen).

ATTENTION: Treatment with contact and intestinal contact insecticides you need to repeat at least three times, with an interval of 7 daysTo ensure that it is guaranteed to destroy the generation of pests rejected larvae from eggs.

In addition, the frame and glass windows, the windowsill, where the infected plant was stood, it is necessary to wipe with alcohol-containing liquid or dishwashing solution.
If you live with small children, relatives, patients with asthma or allergic diseases, if you do not have the opportunity to carefully air the apartment after the use of chemicals, or if you are pregnant, do not use spraying of plants from the insecticide boards, high-class hazard (carboofos, accility), there are Less dangerous ways, read the following recommendation.

Funds from fleas and ticks against the shields.

In addition to the above insecticides, anti-flames are effective against fleas, where the active substance is imidaclopride, and / or fipronil and cypermethrine. These are funds from Bloch, and from lice, anodic ticks from a veterinary pharmacy: Avolanpost, Advantics and others.
If only one plant is infected with the shield, buy the smallest dosage - droplets for indoor dogs or cats. If you have a strong infection with a shield, you need to process several plants, buy drops for large dogs, weighing more than 25 kg.

How to process:

The contents of the pipette with drops to dilute with water, there will be no complete dissolution - the emulsion will turn out.
Little pipette is on 500 ml of water, greater on 1 liter of warm water.
Then the resulting emulsion is thoroughly mixed with all the leaves of plants on both sides, try to make the solution and sneakers, and stalks and stalks. Be sure to moisten the top layer of the Earth.
Leave the solution on the plant drying.
The same solution (or just soap) wash the windowsills and glass.
When the plants are dried, thoroughly carry out the room.
I don't need to flush from fleas and ticks if the smell remains, then you can wash off the emulsion the next day.
Usually one processing by means of fleas and ticks. But if the defeat was very strong, you need to repeat the processing in 7 days.

If there is no possibility to repeat the spraying, if there are no oil droplets, another option: make up all pots with flowers in large garbage bags (120 liters), tie a package so that it is inflated, but not to the end - leave the gap. Splazinate in the package most thoroughly aerosol from fleas and ticks, for example, the 'Balfo' aerosol. We do not recommend using dichlofos - it has a very short-term effect and high initial toxicity. So, we are an aerosol in the package and click on the sprayer 4-5 seconds. Carefully tie the packages, we leave it for a day. Pests die from what chips.
It is best to carry out all the procedures on the street (make plants in boxes, make up a pelvis) or on the balcony.

Efficiency Aktara Against the Shield

Among the flower water appeared the view that the actar is not too effective against the Chervests and the Shield. Where did it go from: on one of the sites, the actor actory was described in one of the sites, then a quote: "The low biological efficiency of Tiamethoxama against the flames is associated with the fact that it quickly propagates on the floement, but weakly penetrate into sucutical cells whose contents are superseden.
In fact, a typo was admitted in the text, and all of her safely quoted. In this case, sukuticular layers are meant - i.e. Layers of cover fabrics of leaves, stems and fruits. Indeed, Tiamethoxam, when watering the act for the root, penetrates the floem of the leaves, but only a very small part of it penetrates the coating fabrics. But when spraying, an actary solution, approximately 60% thiamethoxama absorb the main leaf fabrics (mesophyl), 10% - epidermis and about 30% remains on the wax layer of the cuticle. Those. The concentration of the active substance in the epidermal layer is sufficiently high to poison the pest.

Sticky raid appeared on the crust and lemon tree leaves - a big trouble for gardener. You can save a plant from a liquid somewhat in ways, and to determine the most suitable, it is necessary to first find out the cause of the sticky layer.

Sticky leaves in lemon - a big trouble for gardener. In the shortest possible time, it is necessary to determine the reason for the appearance of sticky plaque and eliminate it.

Sticky raid due to abundant irrigation

W. room lemon Drops of the sticky moisture appear on the sheets in the event that the plant was too abundantly watered.

The fact is that on lemon, which grows in nature, the norm is the release of a viscous fluid. With her, the plant attracts ants, and they save it from other pests.

Making sure that the cause in watering should reduce its receipt and abide by the balance, so that the lemon at home and did not save, and did not start rotting from excess moisture.

Defeat of lemon pests

A shield appears most often on weakened trees. It is advisable regularly, once every 4-5 months to feed the growing lemon with comprehensive fertilizers.

Ignore the appearance of insects is unacceptable, since new shoots as a result of the disease grow deformed, the appearance suffers. If you do not start saving the plant in time, it can perish, why not delay with treatment.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that insecticides, absorbed through the roots and foliage, make a lemon to poisonous for a while, so the next harvest is not recommended to be taken.

We fight sticky chasing from pests

It is necessary to consider that the shield is covered with a dense wax shelter and is not immediately destruction, so the mechanical cleaning and spraying of chemicals will have to repeat several times, every 3-4 days, while the specks will not completely disappear.
It is necessary to pay attention to the processing in the hardest to reach zones, including the bottom of the sheet, its sinuses, interstices and the roar zone.
Chemical methods of struggle can be alternating with less aggressive options. Mix in proportions: 15 ml of soap, 10 ml of 70% alcohol and 1 liter of water. Iterately isolate the soil from fluid ingress, applied the solution pointing to the affected sections of the tree.
If, despite the efforts, there are still new specks on Lemon, it is recommended to use Aktar and Condidor preparations, the breeding method is written in packaging, both are used for watering and spraying.

With the ineffectiveness of other methods to get rid of sticky plaque, you can apply special tool "Aktara"

Prevent plant diseases

They will help to cope with the disease measures to improve the immunity and the resistance of the plant. If you grow a lemon exclusively with a decorative goal, you can resort to verified recommendations for activation of growth and prevention of chlorosis (chlorophyll distribution imbalance).

You need to connect the following components:

10-15 grams of ammonium nitrate;
3 grams of iron vigor;
5 milliliters of boric acid;
1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate.

Then dissolve in 10 liters of water, and watering the mixture is no more than 1 time in 4-5 months.

These harmless substances have antifungal properties, are mineral fertilizers and gently stimulate healthy development. Special fertilizers for citrus plants can be used as prophylaxis.

Lemon, like other indoor plants, is subjected to various diseases and pest attacks. Sticky leaves are a fairly common problem that arises for several reasons.

That is why before treating the tree, it is necessary to establish a factor that caused a similar condition of the green mass, and only then resort to the corresponding measures.

If sticky stains appeared on lemon leaves, you need to carefully inspect the plant. Often, the wrong agricultural engineering is to blame for such a situation, but the cause can be insect pests.

Sticky raid on lemon leaves - always a consequence of one of the three negative factors:

Prolonged excess watering;
Damage to the shield;
Infection tool.

So that the green mass of the lemon moved the appearance of sticky spots with minimal losses, it is necessary to choose effective methods Treatment.

Excess polish

The leaves covered with sticky tap - a completely natural reaction of a tree to excess moisture in the soil. In natural conditions, this situation is not uncommon, because this citrus representative allocates specific sugar fluid to make ants.

In turn, protect the culture from pests, collecting them from all parts of the plant.

Carefully look at the ground in the pot - do you flood it?

If the soil is overly rejected, and sticky leaves and shine, then the reason lies in the disturbed care.

What to do in such a situation:

Normalize watering, moisturizing the substrate as needed when the upper layer (2-3 cm) will dry.
Check the quality drainage system (The presence of holes for removing the excess moisture and the drainage layer) and in the absence of it to transplant the plant in another pot with everything necessary.
Use a suitable substrate for citrus fruit with sufficient loafness and water permeability.

In case the lemon is strongly flooded, in addition to the normalization of watering, it is necessary to completely replace the substrate for fresh in order to avoid getting the root system.

Shooting shield

The appearance on the lemon of the shield is a much more serious problem than excess watering, because in the absence of treatment and treatments, the plant dies.

The pest may be present as a newly purchased flower, and then "move" to the room lemon, and get into the tree in other ways.

It is possible to determine the presence of a panel according to the following features:

On the green mass, dry spots of brown brown, brown bursts, as well as a sticky lemon on the trunk (product of the vital pest).
The plants are visible colonies of females of the shield (small black, transparent or other insects) and males (larger size, approximately 2-3 mm).
Leaves are covered with a sage fungus.
Lemon gradually dry due to exhaustion.

How to deal with a shield:

Conduct interval treatment (3-5 times) Insecticide preparations "Aktara", "Confident", "Phytoverm" every 4 days.
Spray all parts of the plant, including hard-to-reach places (interstices, roasting area, bottom part Plates and leafy sinuses).
Chemical methods of struggle can be alternating with effective folk remedies. It is advisable to use tobacco infusion (50 g of tobacco on 1 liter of water, insist 2 days, spray every day 4 times). Or a soap-alcohol composition (in 1 liter of water to dilute 10 ml of 70% of alcohol and 15 ml of soap), not allowing them to enter the ground.

Additionally, it is possible to shed the lemon with the "Aktara" solution according to the instructions.

Sticky raid when infected

TLL - a small insect of light green color, which is powered by plant juices and in the absence of treatment leads to complete death.

To see the pest easily with the naked eye, because it settles on all the vegetative parts of the lemon tree and provokes the appearance of sticky plates, twisting, drying of the plates and widespread shoots.

What to do when defeating Tley:

Wash the affected parts of the lemon with a solution of the household soap - 300 g of pour two liters of warm water and give it to be broken, then add 8 l cold. Conduct every 7 days.
Use garlic water - 1 garlic head to grind, pour 200 ml of water and insist 2 days, then apply for spraying or wiping contaminated parts. Processing lemon with an interval of 5 days.
Apply herbal infusion from nettle or wormwood (2 tbsp. L. Dry collection to pour a glass of boiling water and insist 12 hours, before use to strain).
Spray with a solution of propolis (5 tablespoons of the pharmacy diluted with 20 tablespoons of boiled water).

If folk remedies do not help get rid of thephids, it is advisable to apply chemical insecticides ("actor", "Akttellik", "PhyTenderm"). Spraying solution must be prepared according to the instructions on the package.

Prevention of sticky plaque: What to do to protect lemon?

Mineral starvation is a frequent cause of lemon depletion, which as a result of reduced immunity is attacked by pests and is covered with sticky stains.

As an effective prophylactic measure, it is recommended to introduce complex mineral feeding for citrus-based citrus basis.

Also, good efficiency shows the composition of the following components:

Ammonium nitrate (10-15 g);
Iron vitriol (3 g);
Boric acid (5 ml);
Potassium sulfate (1 Art. L.)

The mixture is diluted with 10 liters of water and applies 1 time every 4-5 months. In addition to the soil enrichment with mineral components, the solution has antifungal and stimulating growth effect.

When a sticky plaque appears on lemon leaves, it is not worth the time with treatment - the sooner you start processing, the faster the tree will restrict and go to growth.

In natural conditions, lemon is a fairly high tree with a spreaded crown, its height reaches 8 meters.

Of course, in the apartment he would occupy a lot of space, therefore dwarf varieties were taken specifically for home flower growing. They are neat bushes that give a very good harvest.

If you decide to grow lemon at home, then pay attention to the following varieties.

Meyer, or Chinese dwarf. The most popular variety that does not require much care. Well withstands lack of lighting. The lowest of all known varieties. Meyer is a lemon hybrid with an orange, so lemonciles are characterized by a sweet taste. Fruits can be tied up after 18 months of growth, bloom abundant.
Pavlovsky. Released in the Nizhny Novgorod region. The height reaches 1.5 meters, multiplied with cuttings and gives a crop on the third year. From one plant, you can get from 10 to 30 thin-hearted fruit without seeds. Blossom occurs twice a year. Lives a tree up to 45 years old.
Novogruzsky, or New Afonov. A sufficiently high tree, reaches 2 m. With large leaves and flowers of a purple shade. Fruits for the 4-5th year, lemons weighing up to 120 grams, fragrant and tasty.
Maykopsky. The midnight, lush, with a large number of thin twigs, gives many delicious fruits.
Pondress, or Canadian. Lemon hybrid with grapefruit. Blossom starts for the second year after rooting. The yield is small, from 3 to 7 pieces, but the fruits differ large sizesTheir weight can reach 1 kg. Unpretentious, does not need additional backlight.
Eureka. Frost-resistant grade, it can be grown on open air In a soft climate, withstands the temperature to -5 degrees. Fruits appear on the second year of growth, large, thick-skinned and delicious. In height, the plant reaches 1-1.5 meters.
Jenoa. Little bush without barns. Flowers and fruits throughout the year, resistant to adverse conditions. Differs in high yield.

Whatever the grade you choose, with proper care every village will please his decorative species, lush blossom and yellow or orange lemones.

What to choose - disembarking seeds or cuttings

Unlike oranges and tangerines, Lemon easily gives back stalling and quickly spawn from ordinary bones. How to grow lemon at home - cutlets or from seeds, what kind of way is better? Let's consider the features and disadvantages of each method.

Seeds

The first crop can not be waiting at all, with favorable conditions, it will be fertilized not before 6-7 years from the moment of landing.
Difficulties with the formation of the crown. The tree should constantly cut, follow extra twigs.
Unlike grafted plants, lemons grown from seeds give a greater harvest.

Cherenci

Silent reproduction allows you to grow a stronger and viable plant.
If the cuttings are taken from the fruitful tree, then the probability of getting fruits without additional vaccinations is very high.
Many varieties are multiplied with only grinding, since their fruits do not have bones.
Blooming and marking of lemonica begins much earlier than the grown of seeds. But the cuttings should be taken from a mature plant, which fertile at least 2 times.

How to grow lemon on your own?

Chose the method of lemon landing? Well, be accepted for work.

Source requirements

As lemon will grow in a limited space, it is necessary to correctly choose the soil for the landing and make sure that it is saturated with the useful substances.

If you plan to accumulate the earth in the garden or garden, then this is a bad idea. Garden land is too dense, does not have the necessary drainage, and in general it has an incomprehensible composition and most likely inhabited by small pests in the form of bugs and worms. But if you insist and understand the soil, take 3 pieces of the turf of the land and one part of the sand and humus. Turf Take under old deciduous trees, except oak and poplar, cut a layer no deeper than 10 cm.

But it is best to purchase a special mixture for citrus in flower shops. In extreme cases, a universal substrate will come down, but its acidity should be from 5.5 to 6.5 units.

Every 3-4 years, the tree needs a transplant, so the old earth is without regret, and fall asleep new fresh.

Lemon roots are small, so there is no need to buy a big pot. For a young plant, it is enough that the height of the container is 20 cm, and the diameter of the upper part is not more than 15 cm.

Pot

In stores Great variety of pots and pots. What is best suitable for citrus? Let's deal with.

Clay. Clay tanks are characterized by good porosity and drink with water. On the one hand, the tree will not suffer from lack of moisture, and on the other - can bend from its excess. Fast evaporation through the walls of the vessel cools the earth, and lemons - tropical plantsFor them it is harmful. In the inner walls, salts and mineral substances are laid, the roots stretch to nutrients and often grow into clay. When transplants, the root system is badly damaged. Well, considerable importance is fragility of the material. The slightest blow, and you have to look for a new place of residence.
Plastic. Ceramics, of course, more beautiful plastic. But the plastic is cheap, light and durable. Of deficiencies, one can note a homogeneous structure that does not allow excess moisture evaporate through the walls. But the risk of reloading can be reduced using a drainage litter on the bottom. The ease of construction - the tree will be less stable than in a heavy clay pot.
Wood. Combines all the advantages of clay and plastic, but the diligence and deformation of water is a significant drawback. Usually, the Wooden Pan is transplanted by the "Mother" plant, surviving children's sores and growth period. In this case, the inner surface is impregnated with special components and lined with a film to avoid rotting.

Materials figured out, now pay attention to the size. Focusing that the upper part diameter was approximately equal to the height of the pot. But the bottom should be narrowed. And the branches of Crown, the wider the pot.

Holes for drainage are required! Up to 2.5 cm in diameter, and for large capacitance it is better to add a couple more.

With each new transplant (once every 3-5 years), the pot must grow by two or three centimeters. When lemon stops in growth, it can be left alone, but it is necessary to periodically take the top layer of the "indispensable" land and add a new nutrient substrate.

It is impossible to plant a young plant immediately in a large cadku, the land will quickly oxidize, and the lemon will be sick.

The process of disembarking

Now let's figure out how to plant lemon so that he was comfortable, and he quickly went into growth. Consider two ways: cuttings from an elite variety and an ordinary bone, taken out of a fruit bought in the store.

Seeds or bones

No need to buy seeds in the store, it is enough to take a juicy ripe fruit and choose some intact bones.

Now the most interesting thing begins - the extension. There are two ways. The first is fresh, just extracted bones poke into the ground to a depth of 1-2 centimeters, put in a light place without drafts and periodically moisturize the ground. Time "hatching" - up to two weeks.

But since the person is a curious creature, and the woman is doubly, then you will periodically pick up in the pot in search of an emerging life, which means you can damage the gentle sprouts. Therefore, go to the second method.

Put the seeds between two layers of cotton wool, well-dipped water. You can sometimes satisfy your curiosity, lifting the top layer. As soon as the sprout appears, gently transfer it to the ground.

You got a stalk from acquaintances who are fruitful lemon. Your actions are as follows.

First, you need to know if you got the right cuttings. It should reach 10-15 centimeters in length, thick up to 5 millimeters, have a buried layer and 3-4 leaf. Fresh cut is best at home to the ash to prevent posting. And if you still process an additional growth stimulator, then the rooting will pass quickly and without problems.
Secondly, for successful drawing, it is necessary to create a favorable microclimate in 20-25 degrees and good lighting.
Thirdly, the prepared processes draw into the soil for citrus plants and spray from the spray from the spray.

The cuttings will very quickly empty root, if they provide heat, light and humidity it.

Care for sprouts

The sprouts obtained from the seeds, or the urgent cuttings, cover with plastic transparent cups or glass jars to create a microclimate. Spray young boosted daily and challenge fresh air, I remove banks for a while.

The sprout from the bone can be released a greenhouse from kindergarten when 4 leaves appear. Successful rooting of cuttings is determined by the emergence of new leaves.

Fertilizer and transplant

Young trees practically do not need feeding, additionally, more mature plants should be fertilized, which reached 3-4 years of age. In the spring-summer period, the procedure is carried out once every 3 weeks, and in the cold season - 1 time per month.

You can use folk remedies or buy fertilizers in the store. Bought funds use according to the instructions.

Young pigle is transplanted several times during the year, the transplant depends on the growth of the plant. During the period of active growth - once a year, then every 3-5 years.

The most favorable time is the beginning of spring, when new leaves did not appear and the inflorescences did not start. You can also transfer in the fall until the onset of cold weather.

Care for a tree

For successful growth and development of lemon, it is necessary to ensure good lighting, heat and humidity. Avoid direct sunlight, they can burn leaves. It is not recommended to put a pot on draft.

Watering is moderate, the earth should be slightly wet. Tropical cultures love spraying very much, so please suite the shower from the spray gun.

Citrus diseases

When growing citrus trees at home, there is a manifestation of a number of diseases. Each disease is characterized by certain features and has a different effect on plants.

Citrus cancer

Symptoms of the disease are manifested on the leaves, branches and fruits of plants. At the primary stage of development of citrus cancer, small spots are formed on back side Leaves, which over time extend in other parts of plantations. As a result of the influence of infection, the affected parts begin to darken and die.

Anthracnose

The disease amazes all the land elements of the plant. Symptoms in the form of brown spots are manifested on the leaves, after which they apply to the trunk and fruits. Due to the deepening of the stains, an obstacle is created for the movement of the nutrient components. Under the condition of high ambient temperatures, cracks appear in astracted plants.

Parsh (Citrus Warthism)

You can detect the development of pasta by the formation of translucent warts on the entire ground of the trees. In the case of the development of the disease, the warts are becoming larger, and the affected elements are deformed, losing nutrients And die away. Fruits infected with a pair, prematurely fall and lose the taste characteristics.

Melseko

Signs of the disease is the chloroticity of the leaves and the drying of the branches. Development Melsecco leads to a complete drying of the tree. The causes of infection are:

irrigation of watering;
excess feeding;
felting shoots;
improper agrotechnics.

Gommoz

When cultivating citrus at home, homamom struck large roots and bark. The sign of the disease is the selection of the gum from the barrel, branches and leaves. Highly affected plants begin to dump the foliage.

HommoM slows down the delivery of nutritional components to the shoots, so the lack of struggle leads to their dying.

Phytoophluorosis

The common disease is phytoofluorosis is characterized by the appearance of dark spots with a bloom or mold. The affected elements of citrus are beginning to die, because of which the entire plant dies. Over time, fruits lose the freight and taste characteristics. The phytoofer is capable of spreading from one plant to another.

Melanose

Infection of citrus melanosis leads to the appearance of small brown dots on the fruits and foliage. Due to the effects of the disease, the fruits do not reach the highest possible size, and their form is distorted. The most susceptible to melanomin are old trees. Damaged parts of plants are to be destroyed.

Mycosferlez

The fungal disease of mycaseferlez leads to the formation of blister spots on the bottom of the leaves. The infection leads to the dedifications of foliage and the damage to the peel of fruit. To control the disease, it is required to regularly remove the fallen leaves, reducing the source of the development of the new dispute.

Root rot

The reason for the development of the root rot is excessive soil moisturizing or the penetration of fungus. Detect the presence of infection dark spots On the trunk, from which the liquid is distinguished. Over time, the bark in damaged places is destroyed and peeled.

Tristeza.

The effect of tristehesis applies to all parts of citrus plants. The primary sign of the disease is a partial or complete stop of the growth and a change in the color of the leaves. Gradually, the leaves and branches begin to die, and the eaves from the trunk are losing force. In some cases, the defeat of the tristera roots is observed.

Pests of citrus trees

In addition to diseases, the danger of malicious insects represents the danger of malicious insects for citrus trees. The negative effect of pests leads to the following consequences:

treed growth delay;
empting parts of plants;
reduced crop.

The main reason for the appearance of insects is improper care. Also reasons are sharp drops of temperature, the pronounced aroma of fruits and the presence of plant residues in the soil.

Shield

Small insects are embarrassed to leaves and suck juice. As a result of the effects of the shield, the leaves are gradually yellowing, twisted and fall. If you do not start a plant in a timely manner, it will suspend development and perish. In rare cases, the shield damages the fruit, after which they become unsuitable.

Cobed tick

Because of the small sizes, detect ticks on citrus stems is very difficult. The sign of the appearance is the formation of a thin web, which insects cover the fruits and leaves. Pests are capable of hiding in the ground or in leafy sinuses.

TRIPS GREEMA

The greenhouse variety of TRIPS is small pests that live on ripening fruits and leaves, absorbing nutrient components from them. In the affected parts are formed by splashes and black dots. Due to the effects of the trips, the productivity of plants is reduced, and inflorescences are deformed and started.

Bellenka

Citrus harm adult whiteflies and their larvae. Pests absorb the juices of plants, being on the back of the foliage. The affected leaves are losing strength and fall. White-roll larvae excessively absorb juice and release fluid, which leads to a deterioration in photosynthesis.

Mealybug

Mathematical worms leave on the surface of the ground part of the trees white wax. Adults also absorb juice from young shoots, which leads to a slowdown in growth.

Aphid

The most common pest is the TLL, which amazes citrus at the time of the intensive development of new shoots. The insect sucks nutrients, slows down growth and provokes early feeding of foliage. Setting on indoor plants, the wave transfers various infections.

Slizena garden

Slugs occur in conditions of humidaries and tear fruit and foliage. Insects are hiding in a dense foliage and in raw shelters, crawling towards vegetation in a dark period of time.

Rain Worms

The occurrence of rainworms is accompanied by liquid adhesive discharges that can harm trees. At the same time, insects spend aeration of the Earth, providing air inflows to the roots. The presence of rainworms next to citrus is beneficial, so finding insects, you should often inspect plantings and their condition.

Citrus nematoda

The main cause of the development of citrus nematodes is the initially infected soil and the lack of organic feeding.

How to fight if the shield attacked lemons

Particularly dangerous pests of home lemon - shields. When they appear on the leaves and branches, convex oval plates are about 4 mm long. Choosing for yourself the most appropriate place, the larvae of the shields are tightly embarrassed to it, gradually covering the dark armor, while seeing them very difficult.

There are several varieties of shields: black, patterned, yellow-brown, spotted, round and oval. All variations are applied great harm Plant. As practice shows, it is not easy to fight with them, since the wax shield, formed around the shield, protects it from external influences, including from the effects of pesticides. With long habitat on the plant, the pest has time to multiply and hit the neighboring trees.

The first sign of the appearance of this insect is sticky, transparent raid on the leaves resembling syrup. The affected trees quickly weaken, deplete and dry.

If the shield attacked lemons can be used to destroy modern drugs - insecticides: "Aktara", "Akttellik", "Phytoverm" and others. When irrigated or spraying insecticide, the plant absorbs poison, its juice becomes poisonous. The shield sucks poison and dies. After treatment of the tree, the upper layer of the soil is changed to the fresh. Spraying spend 3-5 times with an interval of 15 days. The disadvantage of this method of struggle is that the fruits after the processing of the citrus will be unsuitable for food.

There is another way to deal with the lemon shield. The leaves are washed with soap water or tobacco infusion (50 g of tobacco is dissolved in 1 liter of water). The solution insists 2 days. Wash spend several times a day.

A good effect gives a soap solution consisting of green soap (5 g) and sulfate anabazine (2 g). These components are mixed in 1 liter of warm water, the affected plants are washed with a finished solution. After a day, the solution was washed away clean water. Such processing is carried out within a month once a week.

The lemon shield is excreted using a soap-kerosene emulsion. In the liter of water add 10 g kerosene and 5 g of soap. The tree spray 1-2 times a week.

Lemon pests: web tick and his photo

A web tick on lemon is striking young leaves and unbearable shoots. Sens up from the bottomside of the sheet plate along the residences and feeds on the juice of the leaves, after which they turn yellow and dry. It is difficult to detect the tick with the naked eye, since this pest reaches no more than 1-2 mm. Signs of its appearance are small, light dots - places of puncture sheet plates. In some cases, the leaves are collapsed, and on their reverse side you can see the web. New ticks are displayed in the web, and the affected leaf is popped.

Cellic ticks can be red, yellow, orange, white, transparent. The most common pest of the lemon room is considered a cobweb red tick.

When insect detection, the tree spray gray. For its destruction apply also pesticides. In order to prevent the lemon, the lemon is washed under the jet of water, more attention is paid to the lower side of the leaves. A good effect gives a spraying of an affected water with water soap.

The web tick does not tolerate ultraviolet rays, so when combating it, the citrus is placed under a special ultraviolet lamp for 1.5-2 minutes. This session is not only harmless to the plant, but increases its resistance to disease and pests.

You can use a 35% paste sulfaride to destroy the pawkin tick. This solution is treated with a tree 3-5 times with an interval of 7-10 days. However, this processing is not recommended at the stage of flowering and fetus tying.

TLL on the home lemon: how to get rid of

TLL - a small insect of a light green color with a length of 1-3 mm. Quickly increases its number, occupying large colonies trunk, leaves, wound, tree shoots. For the season gives 10-20 generations. Sucks juice from leaves and young shoots, after which sheet plate Deformed, and the ends of the shoots are twisted.

It is quite easy to detect the pest, since the TLA on the home lemon, thanks to its bright color is clearly visible.

In order to prevent the occurrence of thunder 3-4 times a month, the leaves and branches of the citrus under the jet of warm water are washed. During bathing, the soil is covered with polyethylene. In addition, periodically arrange the examination of lemon to notice the insect at an early stage, when to get rid of it will be easier.

Effectively struggles with the advent of Tlya Garlic Water. Garlic chopped head placed in a glass hot water And insist 2 days. Finished influence the tree spray every other day. After 5 days, the procedure is repeated.

You can get rid of the insect by treating it with dichlorophos. For this, the lemon is placed in a plastic bag where cotton swab moistened in dichlorophos. The plant is left in this position for 5 hours, after which the leaves are washed or sprayed with warm purulent water.

The solution will scare the solution of 3% acetic acid. This solution thoroughly wipes the plant.

In order to prevent the appearance of aphid, it is recommended to put geranium, the fragrance of which this insect does not tolerate.

Fully destroy the pest will help a sturdy solution of the food salt (70g per 1 liter of water). Salt solution lemon spray 3-4 times with an interval of 5 days.

Chemical preparations are used only in cases where other methods do not help.

Mucud Cherver on Lemon

When a torment Cherver is starting on lemon, a fluffy white flare appears on the leaves. In addition, transparent, sugar discharge may appear. This pest sucks juices from young shoots, buds and leaves, striking the root system. At the same time, the growth of the tree slows down significantly.

There are several varieties of milderry. Depending on the type, its sizes vary from 3 to 6 mm.

To avoid the appearance of a milderry, it is necessary to follow the humidity of the air indoor. It should be high enough (70-80%). The plant should be kept clean, timely remove damaged leaves and flowers.

Under the damage to the tree, these insects use such drugs such as carbofos, "Intavir", "Decis" and others.

You can use other ways to combat Cherver. Citrus leaves and stems are washed soapy solutionOr the infusion of garlic with soap. For the preparation of infusion, a few pieces of garlic are poured 0.5 liters of hot boiled water and insist for 4 hours. After that, the infusion is filtered and applied to the affected parts of the plant.

Other lemon pests at home

Citrus nematodes - small, transparent or white worm. Sprinkles the roots, settles in them and sucks the juice of the plant. At the same time, lemon leaves are beginning to be intense. If you dig roots, you can detect small swollen or growths, the pest lives in them.

Chemical preparations are used in the fight against nematode. Useful when applying it organic fertilizersSuppose to restore the soil and create conditions for the lives of natural enemies nematodes: ants, insens, ticks and other insects.

In order for the pests of lemon do not appear at home, it is recommended to carry out prophylaxis. For this, the citrus regularly spray or wipes its leaves, especially from the bottom side. Useful periodic wipers of wood with soap water with the addition of economic soap with the subsequent rinsing with warm water.

The photo below shows some lemon pests:

A sticky flare appears on the huge regret of many gardeners, on the trunk and leaves of the lemon tree. There are several options for treating this disease. But to pick up the right way Treatment, it is necessary to reveal the causes of viscous unpleasant fluid on the tree.

Causes of sticky laid on lemon leaves

Sometimes a room citrus appears a drop of viscous fluid on leaves. They look like they were sprayed with syrup. One of the reasons is abundant moisture. It is not advisable to water the lemon more than 2 times a week. To make sure that the cause of the disease is hidden in moisture, it is necessary to check the soil if it is too wet, the amount of water should be reduced.

Cannot be used for watering tap water. It contains chlorine that is harmful to plants. Suitable for plants Tales, filtered or rescued. Water should be defended at least 3 days.

It is necessary to comply with the balance, ensure that the tree does not disappear and not start to rot from a large amount of water.

Defeat of lemon pests

In a lemon tree, growing in natural conditions, normal is the appearance of moisture sticky on the leaves. Thanks to this, the tree attracts ants that are sanitary. They get rid of the plant from other pests.

Signs of infection:

brown dry stains;
sticky raid on the trunk of a tree.

In late treatment, a sage fungus is developing, or a black - fungal disease Aspergillus, which is the causative agent of diseases not only in plants, but also in humans. Strikes the body with reduced immunity.

Most often, the shield appears on weakened young trees. It is necessary regularly, approximately 4 times a year, to feed the citrus with complex fertilizers. The shield creates the colonies, gradually increasing the habitat on the trunk and leaves. Neglect the growth of pests is unacceptable. Otherwise, as a result of the disease, new shoots will grow deformed and ugly. Appearance He will suffer greatly.

You can not tighten with treatment, otherwise the lemon tree may die.

When processing insecticide, the next crop becomes poisonous. It is not recommended to take lemons into food.

Limitting the shield is difficult. It is covered with wax, dense shell. The spraying of chemicals must be carried out every 3 days, until the specks are completely disappeared. It is well suited for the preparations "confident" and "actar", they are used for spraying and watering.

When processing, it is important to pay attention to the most hard-to-reach places: the bottom side of the leaves, the root zone.

The spraying of chemicals can be alternate with less aggressive irrigation:

It will take 10 ml of 70% alcohol and 15 ml of the household soap for the solution to the solution.

How to conduct a procedure:

close the ground from fluid ingress;
apply to the affected locations point.

Lemon treatment depending on the symptoms

Often, weak plants are exposed to diseases. Therefore, it is important to create a lemon the necessary conditions For its development. This is the right care and careful inspections. Already when the first signs of the disease, it is necessary to start a struggle against pests.

White raid on lemon leaves

Signs for which you can quickly identify the pest:

The whiteflink is very small, but you can see it. A slightly rocking plant, usually insects take off.
With a careful inspection, it will be possible to notice the white-gray formations that remind the mold.
If there is an insect, lemon begins to grow slowly. The tree is tightened by the leaves, then dry and yellow.

Another method is a sweet solution. For cooking it is necessary to mix one glass of water with two tablespoons of sugar. Spray a plant. After a week, spend a shower for lemon.

With a large amount of midges only can be helped by chemical preparations.

Sticky plaque and white lumps

So that the torment Cherberry does not appear on the tree, you need to follow the humidity of the air. It should be about 80%. It is also necessary to remove damaged or patients with flowers and leaves. If the lemone still started a torment cherry, it is necessary to use drugs for irrigation: "Intavir", "Decis", "Carbofos". Or you can wash the stems and lemon leaves with the infant of garlic.

It will take:

5-6 pieces of garlic;
0.5 liters of hot water.

Slings crowded, pour hot boiled water, insist 4 hours. Profilge, apply on the affected areas.

Black raid on lemon leaves

It is insects that leave stickiness. Here will help alternate washing of all the leaves with fresh beer. And for spraying, you can use a tobacco-soap solution.

Cooking: 0.5 liters of water dissolve 50 GB of household soap. Then, to pour 50 cm of denatured alcohol to the resulting solution, add 20 gr 1.5% tobacco extract and add 0.5 liters of water to the resulting mixture. The resulting solution spray lemon.

Brown flag

Most likely, this is a web tick. Detect this pest is difficult. It is in the back of the leaves. Gives it coloring - brown with a yellowish tint. The first thing insect harms young leaves, which are covered by a web under which the pest lives. It will help to get rid of the chant of the yarrow.

Cooking: 80-100 g. Yarrow grass brew boiling water, after half an hour to add to 1 liter and insist for 2 days. Spray with influence 3 times a day 1 time per week.

Prevention measures

It is necessary to carry out preventive measures to increase the immunity of the plant. Growing lemon for decorative purposes, you can use proven recommendations for enhancing the growth and prevention of chlorosis.

Chlorosis is a violation of chlorophyll formation in the leaves. In this case, the disease is yellow and falling leaves from lemon.

It will take:

10 liters of water;
1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate;
3 grams of iron mood;
5 ml of boric acid;
15 gr ammonium nitrate.

Divide all ingredients in water. Water with solution 1 time in 5 months. The mixture gently stimulates a healthy growth, has antifungal action, is a mineral fertilizer.

Need to provide lemon tree proper care, spend the improvement in time and then the plant will delight beautiful view, incredible aroma and harvest.