Putty for plastic models. Putty for models. We make it yourself and branded Tamiya. The main disadvantage of this type of compositions

With you again in touch Dmitry Ignatchev - your conductor of the world of large-scale modeling!

In front of any large-scale modelist, one way or another, the task of putting the joints of the joints of the parts is stuck, grinding scratches and chips. And sometimes you have to engage in the restoration of a large or small detail lost as a result of any "accident".

In general, putty inevitable and true comrade modelist

But in order for it to become your friend - it needs to be understood. As, however, everything else is in this light. It is necessary to gain initial knowledge about the process of shtlocking, types of used, to create prefabricated scale models of product samples. And, of course, find a long practical experience. Practice is the only way to know.

Putty for prefabricated scale models WHAT IS IT?

In large-scale modeling, two types of putty are applied

Two component epoxy formulations
One component "plastic" compositions

First type The compositions are used to close the "large holes" - deep slots, chips, disclications of parts. Them distinctive feature It is uniform curing throughout the volume. True, this is possible only subject to the creation of the correct proportion. Also, they are much stronger than "plastic" types of putty. They are inferior in this characteristic they are only the most plastic model.

The most common putty for large-scale prefabricated models of this species is English Multiput and Japanese Tamiya Epoxy Putty.

If you want to achieve the effect of comparable to the action of these putty - you can look into shops for motorists. Ask there "Cold Welding". There are many more on sale.

But they have their drawbacks

It is required to pay special attention to drawing up the proportion when mixing. In case of an error, it either "stand" very quickly, but will be very crumbled in the process of further processing; Either it will not freeze at all. Then you will have to dig it from the recesses, and repeat the whole process again.
Often they have a long drying period. Something in the amount of day. Although it is possible to "clutter" and a quickly dry solution - in everyday life we \u200b\u200bcall it a "five-minute".
For its subtle layer, a large practical experience is required. In this embodiment, they are badly sticking to the plastic, and all the time strive to break up at the most inopportune moment.

Putty for prefabricated large-scale Tamiya models

Second Type Compositions of putty for prefabricated scale models are dense homogeneous mass. It turns into a kind of model plastic. These putty, in my deep conviction, are the most common from manufacturers plastic models and chemistry. This and Japanese Tamiya Basic Putty, Italian Italeri, German Revell, American Red and Green Putty from Squadron and many, many others. Many famous specialists in Russia advise to use Japanese putty Mr. White Putty is a hijan, it forms a good, strong white mass. It does not get out and perfectly processed. It can not always be found in the online stores of our depreciation. But this question is quite solving with help. From those that almost always have a good Tamiya Basic Putty.

The main disadvantage of this type of compositions

The main disadvantage of this type of composition is uneven drying. It happens that the upper layer already "got up", and there is no more deeper. Need to wait. Simple check Practice will allow all your questions.

Also, problems are in the form of brittleness created by putty surface. It can crumble, and interfere with further processing.

Putclone for prefabricated scale models Revell

Old folk recipes

Russian modelist is akin to the present entrepreneur. He is always looking for the opportunity to use what is at hand. Then, when you get specialized drugs there is no possibility. Or they are not effective enough. Then there are a variety of folk recipes.

The most common variant of the home single-component putty is created using a small bubble of model glue, and big The number of plastic chips, and crushed in chips of the spruce. He insists like a guilt - very long and carefully. Stirred regularly to achieve homogeneous consistency. If necessary, the new portion of plastic chips is permitted. As a result, a viscous jelly-like substance is obtained. She spacked a variety of defects. Not super, of course. This method came to us from the distant, Soviet past. When it was necessary get out . Now he has lost its former popularity. Although modelists with experience often use, and recommend that it.

Cons of this method of putty prefabricated models

Extremely long preparation time. He dries down too long. Gives a strong shrink on the profile. You will have to put your plot at no one time. When drying on the surface, bubbles may appear.

The easiest recipe for home putty models

On the site that we want to put in order, we drip a little cyakrin. Then we take soda or, at worst, talc. And fall asleep them into the glue. It is advisable to repel this plot with a cyiacrine. When the mixture is dry - it will become dense, solid. Perfectly tied to the surface. It is enough tolerant polished. Toler because it is more solid than plastic.

And finally ..

Little putty cunning

Now, with the development of production and design bases of manufacturers of large-scale models, we increasingly have plastic with an excellent degree of location of parts. But when they are connected there is a small gap. As when creating a model. And since we have a surface with a carefully worked extender - we extremely undesirable To grind it!

And then we will do so ...

Take a tube with a gray Tamiya Basic Putty. We define the spouses (sisters / mom / familiar) Liquid for removing the nail polish. A mask on the edges of the junction is applied on the gap. Then it is splashing (for example, with a toothpick or dental spatula). We give a spacure a little (but not completely) to dry. After which the cotton wand in a varnish liquefy liquid and carefully We wash the surplus of putty from the surface of the plastic. If the liquid is not aggressive for plastic, the surface surface remains intact. A slightly dissolved putty comes down, though with some effort. As a result, we get a flat surface of the junction.

I think I spent in detail the basic knowledge of the putty of prefabricated scale models. If you have questions - write. In comments. Add to our groups on social networks.

And today everything. Good luck to you. And beautiful models!

P.S. And what putty do you use? Write in the comments!

In past articles, it was a question of applying putty for a very narrow and specific goal - probably worth telling you and applying it according to your direct purpose - for seams.

In general, this sweafy of the seams is a tedious, long and dusty occupation and the post is quite large, so it is convenient for more convenient, pour yourself tea and delve yourself.

At a certain point in creativity, any modelist is asked: what putty to choose how to put the gaps, which squeak is better to use?

With all the evidence and apparent ease of answers - not so simple. Often, with a close look, even on the work of experienced modelists in the network, or even live, at exhibitions, notice not covered seams, asked or indispensable putty and other charms. Yes, and just taking his old models into his hands, which previously seemed to be normally assembled. You can understand that there are many underwater stones.

First, the more on the model of large cracks and seams, the worse it is collected. The pretty part of them can be eliminated at the adhesive stage, customizing and pushing items. Yes, and high-quality gluing will help here. So collect models without a rush with the mind. Then it is possible to mess around with putty and skirt.

And let's start with the most important - the necessary consumables. In addition to the victim itself in the form of a model, we will need a putty and abrasive. Do not use construction consumables as a putty for models. Water-soluble wood putty seems to be a very attractive option, but in fact it is poorly held on the plastic, does not tolerate the cutting of the batch and moisture is afraid. And it can spoil the ready-made model.

The main nitro-spacure, the best more fine-grained, the best way - Finish (white) putty from Tamiya or Hanza. This putty is suitable for sealing the majority of small slots, smoothing the ledges, ulyazz and other small surface irregularities. Quite quickly dries (2-3 hours before processing), it does not crumble, it is convenient for processing. But! Do not apply it to a thick layer or try to close up large holes and ledges. The putty gives a strong shrinkage, and the thick layer can eat plastic and not frozen inside.
Of the disadvantages of the usual putty and the second is happened. Large gaps Of course, it is possible and even need to be closed with strips of plastic (we select a strip of plastic along the size of the slit, glue it there, put a simple putty on top), but it will not always work out. Where the junction is too wisdom, where it is just a ledge on the curvilinear surface and so on. There is a two-component putty to the rescue. A good choice - two-component epoxylin from Tamiya. Such a putty does not give a shrinkage and you can close any holes. What would be convenient to work with epoxylin - read the instructions. It must be wrapped in water. And in order to keep well on plastic on plastic you can simply apply the model glue to the place where we glue the putty. Then she will not straighten away from plastic. In addition, it is worth noting that after drying it is such a putty harder plastic and start processing it stands with large odds numbers (400). After sealing the slit of this putty, output the surface on the finish is the usual putty. In addition, from a two-component, you can swallow various non-volatile parts of the parts, the edges of the wings and so on.
It is often it turns out that after sealing the gaps or cutting a bunch on the surface of the model, after the primer appears small scratches, shrinkage and other very small, not deep, but noticeable problem places. Especially for such an finish work it is worth buying or liquid putty, or liquid primer.

In addition, a common means for removing varnish, without acetone or solvent for soil from Tamiya

What for? They can be erased by the usual nitro-spacure just wetting a cotton wand in it. It happens very by way if you climbed the putty on some kind of relief parts of the model, working with lanterns of cabins and other delicate places. If there is simply slot on the interface in such places, it is enough to apply a putty, wait for an approximately an hour and erase everything is a complete with a cotton wand moistened with a varnish / solvent. As a result, the model surface will not touch the skin, and the gap will be embedded (it will be particularly useful for both Riveters on models with multiple rivets - you can close the crack, and save it).

The sandpaper, which you will be shusing seams, it is better to take waterproof. Starting processing is standing with coarse numbers (how coarse - depends on the situation) 400-600 and end with smaller 1000-1500 numbers. It stands with water, so that the skin would not be clogged, circular motions. At the same time, trying to especially not wave a skirt and not damage the surface of the model around the places of shtcloth.

Now a couple of words about the process itself.

There is a slot / seam / ledge. And it is necessary to overcome it. Degrease the surface. We take a putty. Spatula / match / toothpick. And we apply it to the right place. Try to put a putty in the seam. At the end, you can surpage putty on the seam with your finger, if not too lazy to wash your hands. If the seam / ledge is large - we apply a putty into several layers, with an intermediate drying, or take a two-component.

If there is a lot of embossed surface of the model around the seam and you need to save it - we glue the tape on the edges of the seam, with a border in a couple of mm, as in the photo.

In case the model docking is strongly lame, then at the end of the applying putty, the model will look pretty unclear. But you should not be afraid of piles of putty. It is better to tinker with its sandpaper than getting a clumsy seam. We wait until the putty dry, whirl. Do not forget about the water. Notice how little putty in the end remains on the model and what the spacure is loose in zero. It should remain only in the sequee / ledge, but not on the surface of the model.

Remember, one applies / processing putty can not do. This is a common mistake. On, it would seem, a small shrinkage and other shoals that will get out at the primer stage will seem to be taken into zero.

Sanding seams worth viewing at different angles, with different lights. Then the problem places will be noticeable. It is better to do it after the primer and be prepared for the fact that the seam will have to put on a new one. Moreover, it is better to give the seams to dry at least a week that the putty would sleep and did not bring any "surprises." It will not have to shit at all, and it may be possible to do with a liquid putty. For an example, the joint on the SU-2 centroplane was covered in two approaches, with a drying of about five days between them.

After the primer, the joint is not visible despite the fact that the light falls smoothly on it. About where there was a seam can be guessing only for a bit shone from under the soil of white putty.

Primer - mandatory stage. It not only improves the adhesion of paints, but also reveals the shta shoals and lines the color of the surface. After all, not every paint will fool a white putty on black plastic. And you have to be prepared for the progress of the model will have a couple of times. First, the whole, and then the place where the putty was reached.

We remind you that the seams are approaching the sealing process stands carefully and without hack. The prevented or not embedded seam kills the perfectly painted model. It is better to sit extra day with the skin in your hands than to kill the inaccuracy of the model excellent in other relationships.

And of course - see what shit! Often at the junction should be seam, and sometimes under higher hand Newbies fall the right slits and joints. So be careful, do not turn the model into the solo-particle blank without seams. And the injured lines of the box do not forget to cut through the new one.

Good luck and stay with us!

Next time we will finish the story about putty, talking about the application for these purposes superclone.

Probably, there is no Land of models on the planet, with the construction of which the modelist would not have to put out the numerous cracks ... The process is quite laborious: first wept, we wait until the putty dryness, and it is usually driving and dries, and you have to repeat the process two or three times. Then for a long time, for a long time with water (this is so that the skin is not clogged) or smelly kerosene (if the skin is not water) than we have health, and at the final stage, polishing the seam. It is worth noting that in the last two stages, the putty will often crumble, this happens and when the batch, spoiled at the grinding stage, is clear that it does not add pleasure. And here, friends, the most terrible - modelism from a hobby that makes fun, turns into a tedious work, which each of us is enough. So, humanity on the path of its progressive development developed several ways to solve the problem, but they all are not devoid of flaws:

1. Weching the model of the model around the seam scotch, in order to keep the extender, and spit, polished, polished. With the exception of all that described above, when using this method, either simply erased together with an excessive putty tape, or the step is formed, released on the smooth surface of the model. Grinding it - it means to erase the decree in the seam area.

2. Devil to the powder with a solvent to the consistency of kefir-rippy and this mass fill in the seam. Plus: No need to grind. Cons: Puttychka so strives to check anywhere, but only away from the seam, and when drying, gives a shrink at as many times as you add a solvent (normally 4-6 times).

3. Close the slit pieces of plastic. But at the same time, the cracks remain, although small, but not the opinion that requiring putty. 4. The remote part of the parts is dry before gluing. This way I use always and everywhere, as it allows you to see and eliminate all the flaws of plastic. Minus: violates the geometry of the model relative to the prototype. After such a torment, you are no longer experiencing a spiritual recreation obtained from the hobby. And showing the models to friends-modelarers have to be justified, they say, such a plastic was poor ... The same thing happened to me until recently, until experienced colleagues led me to the path of truth. Mikhail Nestakov, Will Hendriks, Huge Human Thank you !!! So, enough "pouring water" into the essence of the shtatlevania - we turn to the point!
The first stage, fundamental: lies in the disguise of the seam scotch region (in order not to suck the model to the putty) and applying the putty. Special attention (!!!) should be given the choice of putty. I suggest a fairly common Tamiya Putty. Notice, not epoxy! Epoxy for these purposes is not suitable! The putty is applied usually, as always, it is not necessary to dilute it! For applying putty, I use a set of Chinese hourly screwdrivers - very comfortable and cheap.
The second stage, chemical: waiting until the putty will finally dry, (I leave to dry overnight), we remove the excess fluid to remove the varnish from the nails (should not be surprised). Here, as when choosing putty, it is worth paying attention to the choice of fluid. The main criterion - it should be without acetone! The fact is that acetone is destroyed for plastic! For this operation, we use the ear chopper ("inhabitants") or a match with a wound ground. Do not pinch a lot. It should be carefully, smoothly carry out a match, without lingering in one place. This will make it possible to achieve the most smooth and high-quality seam. Do not forget to periodically change the blade moistened with a liquid to remove varnish.
Stage Third, Final: Now it remains only a needle to remove unnecessary putty from the strip line, if there is a seam (optional) with a soft cloth to give it similar to the texture
That's it! Postscript: It is not always possible to buy Tamiya Putty. With equal success, you can use the Nitrosoft Nitrosoft car nitrosoft. Its disadvantage is only that it has bad adhesion to plastic. It can be eliminated by adding butyl acetate (model glue) in proportion of 1-2 ml of glue by 10-15 ml of putty. But due to glue in the putty, fibers are formed, difficult to remove the lacquer fluid. In addition, the fibers affect the consistency of the putty, and it becomes a "tight", which adds trouble. Delete rollers fibers occurraging (small) or a piece of cloth. And further. If the liquid selected for the removal of the varnish does not dissolve the putty, you can add a pair of drops to it (no more !!!) acetone, having previously convinced that acetone does not dissolve the plastic specifically the model you selected (on a piece of the spruce). I advise you to use WellTex acetone (sold in auto shops) it is neutral to ICM plastic, WE, a star (this is not a complete list, just what I was at hand). By the way, all solvents of WELLTEX are different high quality and low price.

So, if you are a beginner model, then most likely you have already had a question - how and how to deal with cracks that arise when assembling, scratches on the body of the model. Everything is very simple - you need to use the putty.

Shpaklevka - This is most often a pasty or powder substance designed to align the surface between the details of the model.

Currently, a huge variety of putty species is produced and they all differ in their properties.

Right choice Putty depends OT large number Factors, for example

material model

switch width, or scratches

location of the seam

Putty varieties:

Putty
Epoxy resin.
Automobile spacure
Super adhesives

In most cases, a special model putty on a nitro-based is suitable for bench simulation - Putty. The putty is produced in a metal tube, in gray or white, are tightly applied and dry quickly. It is possible to disperse to the desired consistency with the help of the native (or domestic 600th) solvent. There is a flaw, after complete drying - the putty is fragile, very sitting. For this reason, Putty is not suitable for modeling figures. If a shpaklevkadiluted quite liquid, then it must be applied by layers, giving time to the full drying of each layer. You need to remember - the stronger the putty will be diluted - the stronger there will be a shrinkage and the longer it will dry.

Model putty produce almost all famous brands: Tamiya, Revell, Humbrom, Model Master, Italeri

The use of this type of putty clearly goes beyond the simple filling of the slots and seams. For example, it is very convenient to use when manufacturing for diras. - represents two fine-grain material, which solidifies only from thorough mutual mixing of components. Well-stirred putty is applied to the model using a spatula or pressing the fingers with a little effort.

Ideal for modeling figures, manufacturing and copying parts for aviation, tanks and other techniques. After a thorough stirring of two components during hardening, this moment occurs when the putty does not stick not to the model not to the fingers. It is very convenient when modeling and giving the necessary form.

For complete solidification it is necessary 24 hours. You can reduce this time if you put on the battery.

- two-component polyester putty. - Does not give a shrinkage and pretty quickly dries and suitable for which weaplement is needed in large volumes.

For the preparation of spikel It is necessary to squeeze a putty and hardener with respect to 50: 1 to a solid surface and a circular movement thoroughly mix. For better adhesia, it is best to use a miniature flat spatula.

The main minus of this type of putty is its strong and unpleasant smell, for this reason it is best to work with it in a ventilated room.

Keep in mind that if remains sticky even the next day, most likely it is stirred with small quantity The hardener or she simply has expired.

(Green)

Two-component epoxy puttage. Consists of two tapes - blue and yellow colorwhen mixing which it turns out green color. After receiving a homogeneous green color - the mask is ready for use. For this reason, its name is a green name between model stores. Blue ribbon is a hardener, yellow - the main material. The more blue - the more stronger it turns out the putty. By shadowing green, you can control the masses properties. In order for the putty during operation, it is necessary to make a tool and hands. The workpaste can be stored in a container and refrigerator.

Other methods of Shpalian

There are other types of materials for the same tasks, but which are not model putty.

Epoxy resins

Ordinary two-component epoxy resins You can also use as a placeholder. There is a different set, from solidifying 5 minutes before the day. The main advantage of this species is that they practically do not give shrinkage, do not destroy plastic. Minus - weakly hold on in contrast to those made on the basis of solvents.

Automobile spacure

This is probably the most popular type of aggregate designed not for modeling purposes. There are a lot of them. Automobile putty are manufactured usually based on the solvent and are perfectly attached to the plastic. And for this reason, become very strong with full drying.

Super glue

Superclauses are well used if you need to fill small slots or scratches, as they fill the space without bubbles. Super glue practically does not give a shrinkage. The speed of complete drying of the adhesive is highly dependent on air humidity.

As you understand that there is no perfect material for all tasks. Each of them has its pros and cons. Using all the differences and applying them in practice, you will receive best experiencewho are fitting your models to a new level.

Quoted2 \u003e\u003e \u003e\u003e Puttle in stand models

In general, putty inevitable and true comrade modelist

Putty for prefabricated scale models WHAT IS IT?

In large-scale modeling, two types of putty are applied

Two component epoxy formulations
One component "plastic" compositions

First type The compositions are used to close the "large holes" - deep slots, chips, disclications of parts. Their distinctive feature is uniform curing throughout the volume. True, this is possible only subject to the creation of the correct proportion. Also, they are much stronger than "plastic" types of putty. They are inferior in this characteristic they are only the most plastic model.

The most common putty for large-scale prefabricated models of this species is English Multiput and Japanese Tamiya Epoxy Putty.

If you want to achieve the effect of comparable to the action of these putty - you can look into shops for motorists. Ask there "Cold Welding". There are many more on sale.

But they have their drawbacks

It is required to pay special attention to drawing up the proportion when mixing. In case of an error, it either "stand" very quickly, but will be very crumbled in the process of further processing; Either it will not freeze at all. Then you will have to dig it from the recesses, and repeat the whole process again.
Often they have a long drying period. Something in the amount of day. Although it is possible to "clutter" and a quickly dry solution - in everyday life we \u200b\u200bcall it a "five-minute".
For its subtle layer, a large practical experience is required. In this embodiment, they are badly sticking to the plastic, and all the time strive to break up at the most inopportune moment.

Putty for prefabricated large-scale Tamiya models

Second Type Compositions of putty for prefabricated scale models are dense homogeneous mass. It turns into a kind of model plastic. These putty, in my deep conviction, are the most common plastic models and chemistry producers. This and Japanese Tamiya Basic Putty, Italian Italeri, German Revell, American Red and Green Putty from Squadron and many, many others. Many famous specialists in Russia advise to use Japanese putty Mr. White Putty is a hijan, it forms a good, strong white mass. It does not get out and perfectly processed. It can not always be found in the online stores of our depreciation. But this question is quite always solving with eBay. From those that almost always have a good Tamiya Basic Putty.

The main disadvantage of this type of compositions

The main disadvantage of this type of composition is uneven drying. It happens that the upper layer already "got up", and there is no more deeper. Need to wait. Simple practice test will allow all your questions.

Also, problems are in the form of brittleness created by putty surface. It can crumble, and interfere with further processing.

Putclone for prefabricated scale models Revell
Old folk recipes

The most common variant of the home single-component putty is created using a small bubble of model glue, and big The number of plastic chips, and crushed in chips of the spruce. He insists like a guilt - very long and carefully. Stirred regularly to achieve homogeneous consistency. If necessary, the new portion of plastic chips is permitted. As a result, a viscous jelly-like substance is obtained. She spacked a variety of defects. Not super, of course. This method came to us from the distant, Soviet past. When it was necessary get out. Now he has lost its former popularity. Although modelists with experience often use, and recommend that it.

Cons of this method of putty prefabricated models

Extremely long preparation time. He dries down too long. Gives a strong shrink on the profile. You will have to put your plot at no one time. When drying on the surface, bubbles may appear.

The easiest recipe for home putty models

And finally ..

Little putty cunning

Now, with the development of production and design bases of manufacturers of large-scale models, we increasingly have plastic with an excellent degree of location of parts. But when they are connected there is a small gap. And since we have a surface with a carefully worked extender - we extremely undesirable To grind it!

And then we will do so ...

I think I spent in detail the basic knowledge of the putty of prefabricated scale models. If you have questions - write. In comments. Add to our groups on social networks.

And today everything. Good luck to you. And beautiful models!