Removed the plinth on the wall of the gap what to do. How to remove the slots in the braced plinths from different materials: Review of methods. Purpose - big gap

Making repairs, everyone came across such a problem as the sealing of the slots between the wall and the floor. Make it is necessary not only for beauty and order. For example, in private homes or in apartments that are on the first floors, this problem may result in the appearance of dampness, unwanted insects and drafts. Therefore, it is necessary to solve this problem at once without postponing in a long box. First of all, you need to figure out than to close the gap between the wall and the floor.

There are quite a lot of options, but it all depends on the size of the gaps. This work is simple, but it also requires a little training.

With small gap sizes, up to 3 cm, you can only use the mounting foam. The slot between the floor and the width of up to 1 cm is easily sealed with a putty, plaster or cement mortar.

If the size of the slit is greater, then it will be necessary to close up, using other materials, and approach it much more.

In order to close the slit between the wall and the floor, you need to first remove the wallpaper and, if there is, remove the paint layer.

Keeping you need to wash off and then give the wall to dry carefully.

If you hoped to close the gaps, not starting even a small cosmetic repair, then these hopes were in vain.

You will have to remove and plinth, under it, everything is thoroughly washed and cleaned. Preparatory work is required, because otherwise the sealing of the gaps is only an instorodu of your interior.

If you have new wallpapers and you do not plan to change them, you can try to do the work on the sealing of the slots gently.

Try close low part Wallpaper film, you can use food. It is possible to mount it using conventional stationery or sewing needles.

You can also use old newspapers, but it is less reliable. Since the water will be used in the process and you will probably get on the wallpaper.

If you are not going to change the wallpaper, then work with the mounting foam as careful and in mechanical stripping (which is stated below) do not damage the wallpaper.

What you need to close the presence of a big gap

Slices Brick, plastic, foamflast
Mounting foam

When embelling the plays with mounting foam, do not splash too much foam, fill the space by a third, as a last resort, half, since the foam swells and increases in size several times.

To close the very large gap between the wall and the floor, they will need pieces of bricks, foam, plastic, etc.

Filling the required place by this material is the first step. It is desirable that the pieces are small to fill out the hole itself as close as possible, but it's not a very small garbage to fall over there. The pieces should be smaller in diameter to, encouraging them into the hole, you did not increase its volume.

After that, you can pour it with the mounting foam. Using broken bricks, etc. Helps you save the mounting foam. So this option is quite economical, funds will only go to buy a spray mounting foam.

What you need to close the presence of medium gap

moss, jute felt or pala
konopka
a hammer

For sealing slots between the wall and the floor, the moss can be used, jute felt or pass.

There are certain requirements for the use of these materials. For example, moss should not crumble in no case, and the jute felt certainly need to be pre-impregnated with formalin, otherwise moles will be headed there.

By the way, if you use moss, it will in no way be chosen in your hands, and it is advisable to soak felt in addition to impregnate in formalin - so you will save it from moths.

And in addition, you will need a small blade, there are special cacked, but it can be replaced by any suitable spatula.

Whatever the material you choose, it is more convenient to ride it in the "sausage" in the hole. Then the "sausage" is applied to the necessary place and clogs into it with the help of a cavinc and a hammer.

The size of "sausages" should be greater than the hole itself, in order to fill it enough tightly. It is not worth putting the material with small pieces, it will increase your work on time and reduce the density that should be very high.

After closeing in the hole and complete drying can be done decorative finish. Well, if you have been sick with a sickle with sickle before the start of work.

By the way, instead you can use another suitable tissue. Thanks to this precaution, a vapor insulation layer will be formed at the junction.

Of course, this process is excluded if wallpapers are already pissed. This one more reason to take care of the slots in a timely manner.

If you are going to use the mounting foam in the process of embelling the slots between the wall and the floor, then you need to know how to do it right.

Before applying it, it is necessary to moisten the gap water for better interaction with the surface.

It is most convenient to do with a spray gun, but you can use the usual spray, which is very simple from the usual plastic bottle.

To do this, there are several holes in the lid, water poured, and everything, the spray is ready.

Since the mounting foam has a property to increase in volume, then this also needs to be considered. By the way, it is thanks to good moisture, foam increases much more actively.

The cylinder is heated to about twenty-degree before use, for this, simply place the cylinder into the tank with water heated to the desired temperature.

Then the balloon shakes well, the gloves wear and you can begin to marry the gaps. It is very convenient to do this with a special pistol, but the usual cylinder is also convenient for work.

Surplus foam are removed mechanically, but only after complete hardening of the mounting foam. When foam hits on the surface, which can be damaged, it is better to immediately remove it with a special liquid or acetone.

But do not expect that this process will be easy: removal of foam is not easy job. The layer of the mounting foam should not exceed 3 cm. If you want to close the large gap only with it, you need to swapping several layers, giving each layer to dry well.

In addition to all these nuances, you need to consider the room temperature. Only at temperatures above +5 degrees can begin to marry gaps.

If during the repair you saw between the floor and the clearance wall at 1.5-4 cm, this is normal. Such a distance between the floor coating and the wall will leave any good builder: it serves as ventilation so that the underground space can dry from the inside.

Sometimes the ventilation is already connected, for example, through the foundation, and then, due to the gap in the rooms, the drafts starts to walk. Before you make a gap, consider one thing: it retains the floor shape.

What is the meaning of the distance between the floor and the wall?

This distance plays not only the role of ventilation, but also serves as a compensation gap. Wood from the effects of temperature and moisture then dries, it increases. If you do not leave a free space between the wall and the floor, then when you boot the board, the boards will be shed into the wall and arched. So the bugs are formed on the floor, the geometry of the walls changes, cracks appear.

You can close this seam, but you need to choose the material to choose.

Freight shape in wooden house With a gap for air exchange - if the clearance does not interfere, then it is just hiding for the plinth

What to close the joke?

For sealing, the seam is needed a mixture that has three characteristics:

protects against moisture (remove dampness);
does not let the air (remove the draft);
changes and restores its shape along with the deformation of wood (give a tree to increase and decrease in size, without breaking seam tightness).

For these purposes, acrylic sealants were created. It is them perfectly seal and remain elastic after drying. It is impossible to close the seam plaster, the mounting foam - they are static and absorb moisture. The edge tape is not suitable for this.

If the gap between the floor and the wall is more than 4 cm, then the specialists are often closed with a pantry, and the sealant is laid on top. You can use jute, pass, construction felt impregnated with formalin or antiseptic (it will protect it from rotting). But more often in a set with sealant buy special sealing cords.

General Shipping Technology

Work on the sealing of the compensation seam is carried out according to the following algorithm:

The entire surface of the seam is cleaned from dust, contaminants and crumbling particles.
Wood is desirable to handle an antiseptic or climb (depending on the state and type of floor covering).
A suture cord or cacope is placed in the gap (depending on the width of the gap).
The acrylic sealant is applied over the tree.
Excess the mixture is neatly eliminated, the seam is aligned.
The frozen sealant can be painted or registered.

A week after a complete hardened sealant, the clearance is closed by a plinth or other decorative elements as desired.

Grinding a large clearance (from 4 to 8 cm)

Here, for compaction of the gap, you need a caulkat, impregnated with formalin. It twists in the roll and tightly clogged into the gap. If it does not work with hands, spatula or knife with a knife to the clearance, you can take a rubber hammer and gently score it.

Why do you need a caulkog? Look in deep gap - most often there is an underground and empty space. If you start laying the sealant there, it will simply fall inside, so it will be needed very much. The roller from the cacopa will fill the space and create the basis for seaming seam.

Then the sealant is applied over the cacopa with a gun.

Sealing a narrow gap (up to 1 cm)

Narrow gaps (up to 1 cm) You can simply "sew" acrylic sealant. It is necessary to apply a sealant of a pistol or tube, and remnants along the edges remove the spatula before drying, so that it turns out a neat seam.

Small slots can also be chopped with a cord or rope selected in the size of the gap. The seal is made as follows:

cord is wetted by glue;
it is placed in the seam and deepen inside by 2-3 mm;
this distance of 2-3 mm is filled with acrylic sealant.

As a cord, you can use a special suture cord from foamed polyethylene with a round cross section - its thickness should be greater than the width of 30% and more. It is laid in the gap to the desired depth. This will make it easy to adjust the volume of the sealant bookmark. In addition, harness helps sealant to take the right shape, creating an excellent grip with the walls of the gap. If the gap is completely small, instead of the cord you can take a plastic ribbon.

Important: any other materials, except polyethylene, are connected with sealant. As a result of such a seam, it will not work normally, adapt to the deformation of the tree. Therefore, special polyethylene suture cords are taken to seal.

What layer to apply sealant?

Suppose your compensation gap is quite a great depth in the underground. What depth you need to lay sealant?

When entering the compensation suture, remember the ventilation: the wooden floor must "breathe" so as not to rotate. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that it is ventilated from the inside, in the subfield.

Ventilation window in the foundation at home

If there is no ventilation at the base of the foundation, you need to leave a part of the clearance free. Although cold air can be blew into it, it will not be critical if the facade and the base is well insulated.

Wooden sealant

What is a sealant for wooden floor and why is it needed?

They are called one or two-component composition to fill the cavities. It is produced on different foundations, the one that is made on the basis of silicone, polyurethane or acrylic is suitable for the wooden. If we speak simply, the sealants are eliminated by the disadvantages of the wooden floor, for example, chips, but the most important purpose of using a sealing solution is to eliminate the gaps and gaps in the floor.

Where do the gaps come from? The fact is that any sex is constantly experiencing physical and mechanical load. A wooden reacts to the load is stronger than the other types. This is due to the peculiarities of such a material as a tree. Wood is more susceptible to wear, sensitively reacts to changing humidity, temperature. In fact, it is a living material that even after laying continues to give moisture, it sinks and forms gaps and cavities.

The properties of the sealing solution necessary for high quality of work

How to choose the sealant you need among the sets presented in the market building materials? To begin with, we will define what properties are important:

Elasticity and strength.
Close up holes in the wall

To improve the qualities, various plasticizers and specialized additives are used, information on the package must be specified;
High adhesion (clutch) with other materials;
Compatibility with varnish and paint, because the wooden floor then will be covered by any finish layer;
Environmental purity. Choose a product marked by an international sign of the Blue Angel Environmental Purity. In this case, you will be protected from inhalation harmful substancescontained in the mold for the floor.

Choose a sealant on which it is written that it is suitable for performing internal work, Including on wooden surfaces.

Choose a sealant from proven manufacturers, because there are many counterfeit products, and often you can find a poor-quality product, on which it is possible that it is written that it contains "100% silicone", but it will be very diluted with oil. For the properties of such sealant, no one will be treated.

9 reasons to use sealant for wooden floor

It prevents heat loss. Did you pay attention how much heat can go through the slots in the wooden floor? According to some data, heat losses can be up to 30%. Fill the gap sealant and thereby spend less means on heating at home.
Savings from drafts in the house. When you eliminate the slots in the floor, then save the cold source.
Effectively prevents the destruction of the surface and cracking the boards.
The cavities will not become insects that love wooden floors. Fill in all visible slots between the boards of the laminate or parquet.
Eliminate dust and dirt sites that are so difficult to clean.
The use of sealant for the wooden floor increases the life of the surface.
It fastens the boards or laminate bands among himself and, thus, eliminates the creak.
Removes irregularities, making the surface of absolutely smooth and monolithic.
Wood coating becomes more resistant to moisture penetration.

For what gender use a hermetic solution?

Laminate.
The sealant is often used to eliminate the creaking.Over time, the locking mechanism is cleared, and the laminate creaks. The use of mastic will protect the locking system from a drying and, most important for laminate - from water from entering water. Sealants are sold different shades, it remains only to choose the appropriate color.
Board.
Parquet.

Do not forget to fill the gap between the plinth and wooden floors!

How to use sealant for wooden floor?

Before use, clean the gaps from garbage and dirt. Carefully dust the seams. More often, the sealant is packaged in the tube, unpack the gun, direct the rod and fill the gap or junction evenly, remove the remnants with a neatly cloth.

You should not neglect the means as a sealant for the wooden floor, because in this case you get a long service life of the floor covering.

Parquet laying provides for the presence of a special technological gap of 10-15 mm. He needs wooden semi In order to compensate for temperature fluctuations and humidity.

The size of the gap depends on the type of installation.

A floating method (without glue and nails) and "chess" assembly are performed with a lumen of 8-10 mm.

When using glue, you will have to leave 10 mm.

How and what to close the gap between the parquet and the wall?

It remains only to decide what to close the gap between the parquet and the wall.

For this, it will suit, for example, a special elastic cord from polyurethane foam.

It must be sealed to the base of the parquet any suitable tool.

You can use mastic (special elastic mass), which is better to apply a spatula. Mounting the plinth is needed after these materials are dried.

Suppose an option with polyvinyl acetate (PVA) or joinery glue.

Sealing seams between the wall and floor in a wooden house

In this case, the glue first should be mixed with sawdust, and then - to fill the gap obtained by the homogeneous mass.

It is permissible to use the insulation sliced \u200b\u200bstrips. We will only have to pre-cut it on the smooth stripes. Cork is suitable, but it is necessary to take into account the possibility of forming mold. It is necessary to cut on a thickness of 10-15 mm - depending on what thickness you have a gap.

TO unsuccessful You can attribute the option with foam and wooden slack.

The first case threatens hacks with applying and trimming surplus (foam also absorbs moisture).

The second is fraught with inevitable slits when drying.

Wooden rails that you clog into the gap between the parquet and the wall can dry literally for 2-3 heating seasons. Especially if in your home or in your apartment there is a heat supply in winter time.

On the Internet there are information on the permissible amount of heat supplied to the apartment. Press if you have exceeded this option, then you have a puddle to refuse to scoring the cracks with the help of rails and, at the same time, contact the WEK, to reduce heat supply. This will affect your family budget.

Why close these gaps?

The clearance under the gather difficult to retractable dirt, low-skinned for the health of asthmatics and allergies. And the gap for the penetration of dust always exists, due to warm batteries, drafts along the walls and wet cleaning.

Parquet glue and varnish protect the dies from moisture from above and below, ensuring stability of the geometry of the dies. The end for penetration is open, constantly contacting air.

Drying or moisturizing side part create a threat to the strain of parquet around the perimeter. The elimination of the technological gap eliminates this danger.

How to join ceiling plinth: Subtleties of installation

Plinth is a part of the decor of the room, at the same time hiding defects at the interface of the ceiling and walls. Only at first glance it may seem to establish it simply. But, how to poison the ceiling plinth in the corners, if this angle is rarely 90 °?

Deviations can be up to 5◦. In this case, an accurate fitting of parts will be required so that the gaps are not formed.

Molding for the ceiling can not cut at an angle of 45◦. This can lead to the fact that the inner region will not fit tightly. Mounting feature is the absence of external corners.

But sometimes they meet. To carry out a high-quality installation, it is necessary to conduct a number of calculations.

Measurement of indoor corners and cutting

Cor meter for walls

For a beautiful and inconspicuous junction between the left and right element, it is important to carefully measure the degree of corner. To do this, use a tilter.

Depending on the measurement result, further actions will be carried out. And it will be clear how to properly docile the ceiling plinth - using stub and it standard dimensions Or cut manually with hacksaw.

Usually, for accurate cut, the bar is placed in the stub the right angle and cut off. The scene is obtained accurate, but it is relevant only when the room is correct. If there is at least the slightest deviation from 90◦, then it will be necessary to cut without the help of the stouch - manually.

Stuslo - convenient for rectangular rooms

To cut the ceiling plinth with your own hands for inner corner A tool will be required.

The choice depends on the material of the planks:

polyfoam - cuts by a simple stationery knife;
polyurethane - the metal should be required;
a tree is a hacksaw with small teeth, designed for wood.

Instructions, how to manually exercise cut:

take a tilter and measure the exact value of the angle, where the docking is supposed;
the result should be divided into half;
the bar is putting a pencil mark, where it will be produced.
cut the left item - for this it should be turned over as it will be pasted on the ceiling. That is, the upper part will be below, and the bottom on top. It concerns both manual cutting and cutting in the stouch.

Note!
When stating marks for further cut, all items should be kept exactly as they will stick.
This is necessary for high-quality seam.
The ceiling plinth is always mounted in an inverted form.

on line, the bar is cut and then applied to the wall.

Photo, how to lay the bar in the stubble right

Details are better to sign in advance so that it is not to confuse the parties. The second part of the plinth must only be cut after the first carefully adjusted. This will prevent the appearance of the gaps, which will further be chosen.

Installing a plinth on an angular junction

There is simple but reliable wayWhen the docking in the corners of the ceiling plinth is made using markup. It is convenient if there is no stouch at hand.

two parts cut at an angle of 90◦;
alternately attach them to the place of docking and outline the place of the intersection of elements;
on the planks to celebrate the point where they will be shrinking in the corner;
spend a line from the point to the opposite to the end;
crack alternately each side.

Alternative method of alignment

The price of professional builders is quite large, but it is possible to glue the molding yourself. How to calculate degrees for cutting.

For this you do not need complex tools. Enough a simple pencil and knife.

Note!
The knife should be different for each material.
Gypsum stucco cuts best of all the old hacksaw, as it crumbs greatly and quickly spoils the saws of the saw.

Exterior Ceiling Plinth Angle: Docking

Stock Foto Docking external corners

The outer corners of the plinth for the ceiling are joined after they cut them in the stub. Most often there is no problem with this - an external angle is usually equal to 270◦.

For fitting parts, the planks are applied to the wall as they must be installed. And the pencil marks the place of cut.

Colley is made at an angle of 45 ° with stusl. The bar is installed face down. This is important for the formation of a beautiful corner.

How to roll the ceiling plinth when the outer corner has a rounded form? In this case, the planks are cut into several parts and are joined by connecting elements.

The number of segments depends on the radius of the wall. If the plinth is made of polyurethane, then it is not cut, and bend.

Installing elements on a rounded ceiling

Combine pieces of slats is possible and without using connecting elements:

For this, the plinth is cut into the details of 5-6 cm long each;
Colley is carried out not directly, but at a low angle, depending on the curvature of the wall. It is determined directly at the place of work;
The right part is glued first and then each subsequent applied and the pencil is noted, where the piece is required to be cut;
Plinth is glued on putty or liquid nails.

Before losing the joints of ceiling plinths, everything is excessive removed by the spatula. All slots are processed by an acrylic sealant to create a smooth transition from one piece to another. Then the surface is covered with paint.

How to disguise joints in the corner of the walls

Docking in the corner of the ceiling plinth: appearance immediately after installation

After docking the parts of the ceiling plinth, we remain ugly on the surface and, as a rule, very noticeable seams.

How to close the gap between the floor and the wall under the plinth

The complexity occurs at the decoration stage when the slots need to be masked and make them completely imperceptible.

What to seal the joints of the ceiling plinth so that they are not visible:

To independently handle the seams on the site of connecting several parts of the planks or make the angle more naturally need:

smallozing sandpaper - suitable for plinth of plaster, natural wood, polyurethane. She will not harm the surface, will not spoil it;
sponge or rag - designed to eliminate excess the core material;
brush with synthetic pile or greasy roller;
paint.

Before proceeding with the sealing of the joints, you need to carefully process them. This process will differ for the plinth, made of plastic materials and more solid grinding.

The order of work on disguise seam

How to make a mixture of ceiling plinth with a beautiful neat and not thrown into the eyes?

the place around the seam is grouped by sandpaper and degreases;
all excess glue for the ceiling plinth or putty are removed by a spatula, the residues are watched with a wet sponge;
all seams are filled with either acrylic sealant, or putty - carefully so that there are no drips;
plinth must dry for 2-3 hours;
tassel paint the plinth, and so that there are no divorces and strips, walk after it is painted with a paint roller.

Thus, you can hide the mix of the ceiling plinth not only in the corner, but also on the straight surface of the wall. The method is suitable only for polyurethane or gypsum molding.

If the installation of foam plinth is installed. It is impossible to use the emery paper. It hurts the surface by violating its integrity. It is not grinding, but cover paint, after completing the seams with a white sealant.

If it is assumed to install a wooden plinth, then to create beautiful joints it must be covered with primer. It will hide all flaws resulting from mounting - dents, seams.
The docking of the corners of the ceiling plinth in this case is always carried out using the stouch. The tree is solid, it must be well fixed when cutting.

How to disguise seams on a wooden plinth:

collect the surface, pre-clearing from the dirt with a dry rigid brush;
covered with primer and let dry;
give the necessary color, applying varnish or paint.

The joke will be almost inconspicuous, especially if the plinth is painted in a dark or bright white color. If this is not enough, then wood design in places where the planks form a gap, filled with putty.

Output

The docking of the ceiling plinth is a very responsible moment. Not only aesthetic attraction depends on this, but also practicality. The poorly fastened edge with gaps is likely to quickly torn off.

That is why it is important to clearly follow the instructions and take carefully to cutting the operators of the plinth. And in this article will help you make sure about the agreed actions, see!

If the plinth is already standing, the wardrobe installer will remove it, cuts the fragment under the "arrival" door or a false panel, and then put it in place.

If the plinth is small (height 5-7 cm), then it is placed at the end of the repair, on the wallpaper or painted wall.
After "inserting" in such a plinth, behind him, we will see this wall:

"External" and "internal" sliding mirror doors of the "Commander of Lazurit" system, the color of the frame "Champagne".

Ceiling plinth.
If the design of the room is provided for the ceiling plinth - it is always placed without any questions, and if the wardrobe is embedded, cut into it.

Stock Foto Built-in wardrobe.
The built-in wardrobe "Commander of the Lazurit", the color of the frame "Gold Matt", in the hallway in the apartment in Moscow, 2007. Plinth on the floor - ceramic, installed on the solution, performs from the wall to 12mm. Relieve a fragment of such a plinth is difficult without spoiling appearance Walls, solution:

- Plinths do not remove, install a false panel on the wall.
- In the ceiling plinth cut into the width of the false panel.
- Cutting the design wall of the wardrobe cut into the ceiling plinth.
- Plinths do not remove, make a sample in the design wall of the wardrobe.

If it is a high plinth (10cm or more height), classic interiorthen it is put on the solution or glue, and dismantle it without consequences. Before the plinth, a plastered wall will be discovered.

Photo of the dressing room.

Wardrobe room in a private house, in Pavlovskaya Sloboda, 2014. Material of the dressing room LDSP "Egger" 25mm, the color "white platinum", the fastening method of the shelves - eccentric ties. Plinth is installed after assembling the dressing room. In the departments of S. drawers Floors on the grounds.

If the high plinth on the floor at the time of measurement is not installed - do not install.

The master who came to measure, asks what the plinth will be, what he is height, and better - asked to show. If the repairmen of the finishers (foreman) will ask, as they plan to put it.

how to close the gap between the wall and the polomstick to gently shook down. Highlights by advice

Here options are possible, the meaning is only as it is more convenient to do with the installation of the plinth, reducing the extra work of both finishers and yourself.

The master can accurately indicate where the guides for the doors of the wardrobe will be installed, and the installers will make the plinth to this place. Or ask to cut, but do not install the plinth before installing the wardrobe, and install the plinth then yourself. In addition to sliding doors The wardrobe, with the plinth, can contact the design partitions of a wardrobe or dressing room, and in such cases either the sample is made on all design partitions, or the plinth is placed by fragments in the department already set of cabinet or dressing room.

Reduced work in this case is mutual, as it is difficult to cut off, especially for high plinths and is difficult and long, and only the connection with the plinth "later" can look at ideally. Since in the departments of the cabinet can be "floors on the base", then in these branches, the plinth is not put, and the finishers are less than the installation of the plinth, the savings of the plinth, and do not cut the sample on the design partitions. Everyone is good, and looks beautiful. With a plinth height, it may still be connected, sometimes the plinth is already installed, and in terms of floors on the base, then these floors should be designed either above the plinth, or less in depth to the thickness of the plinth. In this case, the "floors on the grounds" during installation come not to the wall, but to the plinth, and it would be nice that there would be no "global samples" in this place of the plinth, and otherwise it turns out ugly. But these are nuances. In general, the master who came to measure, wants to see what the plinth looks like.

Outcome:

Plinths are installed - the master chooses the decision "on the place".
Plinths are not installed - do not put, consult with the master.

One of the most popular wood remains, although there are more modern options on the market.

Tree is chosen not only bath owners and private houses.

And B. private apartment can be used lags to wood coating It was located on top of a concrete screed.

But the boardy floors have some disadvantages.

From the main deficiencies - the ability to dry over time.

Because the process of operation is inevitably associated with education.

Even the most competent carpenter will not be able to get rid of this problem.

But the owners will easily cope with this problem if they do not postpone it.

And they will easily figure out how to close the gaps between the floor and the wall.

The formation of cracks in the floors is caused by several reasons.

Boards are experiencing excessive loads. Therefore, the floor should additionally strengthen if in one room it is planned to put heavy.
The appearance of rodents. They sometimes resemble even concrete obstacles. And the tree does not at all become an obstacle for them. If the cracks arise exactly because of this, then pre-before sealing, it is recommended to use concrete for additional processing to which crumb is added from glass or metal. It is not necessary to immediately fall asleep the poison, otherwise the unpleasant smells will be pursued for a long time.
Boards are used when they are still too fresh. Natural tree Literally filled with moisture. It dries too quickly when it is placed on the floor. The consequence of this is a decrease in the volume of the structure. If the finishes use boards, then they must be dried. The main thing is to use a natural way, only in this case will not appear. Before exploitation, no more than ten percent of moisture should remain in the wood.
Incorrect breed selection. A more attractive appearance differs ash or male, cherry. But their flexibility is too big. With them, finishing on floor coverings will not be reliable. Especially if the latter are exposed to excessive loads. It is recommended to choose the breeds with maximum rigidity. Among them spruce, pine or oak. Either rocks come from the tropics.
Wrong action during floor laying. Boards should not disperse if they were as followed by lags. The damage of wood from moisture occurs only if the application of technology is impossible due to the height in the room. And the installation goes right on concrete screed, without other devices. The screed requires careful drying, only in this case it will not deliver additional hassle. Mandatory use of waterproofing protection for the wood itself.
Temperature oscillations.

As already mentioned, in the fresh tree a lot of moisture. Air inside the material dries in winter when heating systems are included. Because the tree begins to give the humidity accumulated throughout the life cycle.

Wood because of this dries, reducing its volume. Then comes to an end heating period. But back to the moisture boards does not fall anyway.

Reducing volume remains invisible until the material retains relative freshness. But throughout the life of the gaps become more noticeable by.

To avoid this particular problem, you need to ensure that the level of humidity does not exceed 40-60 percent, but not less than these indicators. Special humidifiers will help to cope with the problem. And they will bring a lot of benefit to our health.

The gaps not only spoil the appearance, they can be dangerous. Therefore, the sealing should be carried out at the first opportunity. Defects contribute to a decrease in the operational, which differs from the floor.

The room becomes colder, smells from other apartments penetrate inside. The likelihood of biological infections increases. But it is quite simple to get rid of the slots, even without special skills and knowledge.

We repair the gap between the floors and the walls

It will be necessary preparatory work Before proceeding directly to the seal itself.

The bottom of the wall must be completely cleaned from finishing materialsused earlier.

The plinth can be able to handle, but it is necessary to carefully clean the space under it.

Otherwise it will not even be possible to figure out how to close the gaps between the floor and the wall in.

The sealing method choose depending on what sizes has a slot:

With a thickness of less than three centimeters. This is the easiest situation. Filling is carried out by mounting foam, plaster, splock, a mixture of cement.
The average size. If the slit is more than three centimeters, then the mounting foam is not enough to fill. In this case, the material simply does not have enough strength. It is better to give preference natural materials, like jute or pack. They are easy to score inside, applying a regular hammer. If jute is taken, then additional processing from insects is required. Then the appearance of moths apartment does not threaten.
With a big width. For filling, various garbage is used, fastened by mounting foam. It is permissible to use materials like broken bricks, cropping, foam pieces, and so on. The materials should cover a large area, but the dimensions do not exceed the gap itself. Otherwise, the gap will only increase.

It is necessary to take into account that the volume of foam increases several times when it freezes. Normal stationery knife It will help to get rid of surplus if necessary.

How can you close the cracks in the floor

Much more diverse will be the processing of conventional slots appearing in the floor between the boards. Technology retains a single procedure, even with different.

The floor must be carefully laundering, and then dry before starting work. Metal brush will help working with wide slits, inside which dirt accumulated.

Otherwise, sealing loses its meaning, with time the boards again begin to disperse. Next steps Dependes to which material the design owner works.

We work with wooden slats

Working with this material, do not do without relatively complex. Without the progress of the proper result, it will not be possible to achieve. But in efficiency, this solution is the most successful.

The essence is that there are small thickness powder inside the gaps. Creating thin holes with this solution is impossible. But this is the perfect option if the boards begin to diverge strongly.

It all starts with the processing of the side faces with the help of a cutter. Thus, already existing gaps are expanding. Old thick layer of wood is removed from the surface.
For alignment of the gaps inside, the so-called ducts are clogged. Entry paper is used to process the ends of the elements in outdoor coating. Then the surface is again covered with adhesive composition.
Reiki should be less in thickness than holes. It is recommended to give preference coniferous rocks trees. Rakes are lubricated with glue, it will only stay them between the boards.
As a result, the surface can be treated with glue and grinding. After that, the repairs will remain invisible. This answer can be given to the question of how to close the gaps between the floor and the wall in the bath.

Splashka: Basic Rules

With a small thickness, the clutches are suitable. For which they use the compositions, with different bases.

Blend of sawdust, wood varnish and paint with suitable color. To mix components, it is recommended to use the following proportion: 4: 1: 1. The advantage of the shp can - the absence of the need to apply an additional finish. She immediately has the right color that is suitable to the rest of the floor.
Pleaster, along with finely chopped paper for newspapers.
Excellent glue substitute will serve as a plaster. It is mixed with sawdust, and then all this is poured with water. It is permissible to add citric acid, in the amount of three tablespoons per liter of the mixture.
PVA glue mixed with sawdust. The material is poured with boiling water to sufficiently to Nabuch. This must be done until the mixture becomes a tight. The glue is fastened gradually until the mixture becomes thick.

The cracks are closed on the following technology. The mixture of them must be filled using a spatula. The main thing is that the shtalavka is at the greater depth as possible.

The material must dry, what is about two days. After that, it is enough to polish the places where the repair was carried out.

We use special sealants

The best operational characteristics are characterized by sealants created on the basis of silicone or acrylic.

Such a material will definitely not let inside the drafts with excess warmth.

They will protect the tree from the emergence of microorganisms, additional moisture.

And endowed with excellent properties for noise insulation.

The material is also known for its dynamicity. This means that the boards will be able to move and deform in small limits when there are changes in temperature. At the same time, the seams themselves will not be destroyed between them.

Immersion The sealant in the gap is carried out by an assembly pistol.

Are there alternative solutions

It is permissible to use methods that are considered obsolete, but partly preserved their relevance.

Pouring gaps with epoxy resin. She fastens the elements with each other well. But under the action of a large load begins to throw off.
It is permissible to lay on top of ordinary plywood, fiberboard and chipboard.
In the slot, the passclosure, moistened in small quantity water.

The removal of the entire coverage will become a more efficient solution if the floor is new, but the appearance of the slots has already become noticeable.

Then the boards simply laid anew, but more tightly to each other. The method will be relevant and in the event that the reason for the appearance of defects was a violation in technology during styling.

About the sealing of slots and cracks can be viewed on the video:

In the process of operation of the apartment, room or other room, especially in panel houseThe gaps are almost always formed between the floor and the wall.

They not only spoil the appearance, but also break temperature modeAnd besides, contribute to the penetration and breeding of dampness and all kinds of insects. In any case, these slots need to be carefully processing and close.

Procedure for work

The material for embedding the hole is selected relative to the size of the slit

Performing work on the sealing of the gap between the wall and the floor does not require any special knowledge and experience.

The simplest operations that need to be performed at the same time will not require great effort.

For the correct and high-quality production of these repair work It is only necessary to comply with the correctness and sequence of the following operations:

first, it is necessary to determine the size of the indoor opening, its length and depth;
depending on the size, the seal material is selected;
preparatory work is performed.

What can close the gap between the floor and the wall under the plinth, it is easy to determine after dismantling the plinth and determining the size of the slot and its depth. The material used to seal the gap between the floor and the wall can be selected depending on its size on the table:

After determining the sizes of cracks and gaps between the floor and the wall, the methods of their sealing, the materials used, proceed to the implementation of preparatory work, ensuring the quality of subsequent operations.

Preparatory work

Get all the cracks and defects

Preparation of premises for work on the sealing of slots between the floor and the walls depends on the type of finishing, where the repair is made. If there is a plinth, it needs to be dismantled and examine the space under the floorboards for the presence of gaps under them and their size.

Blooming should be blocked, old paint layers remove. If necessary, designs should be given time to dry. You can speed up this process by applying additional room heating equipment.

All places where dust and dirt can get during operation are covered with polyethylene film.

Sealing large, medium and small slots

To fill large slots, it is necessary to pre-fill them with suitable brick, aerated concrete slices, polystyrene foam. Then you need to fill the fracture or gap mounting foam.

Foam has a property to expand, so it should be sprayed evenly, without filling the slot completely.

Mounting foam is very convenient for embelling slots

If the foam still came out, then the surplus should be cut off with a knife.

Middle and small cracks are close to pacles or felt, pre-treated with means that do not allow to start in them a different kind of insect.

Then also filled with mounting foam.

Subsequent finish

It is possible to close the slits between the floor and the wall easily and quickly, but at the same time it is necessary to take into account the need for the following work on the device of a new finishing coating or to restore the old one. On how to make clearances, see this video:

After removing the excess foam, the sealing places are processed with putty, and then depending on the finishing type taken, they are whitewashed, covered with wallpaper or closed by a plinth.