How to trim the battery in the heating system. How to connect the heating battery qualitatively for many years. Special models of radiators

Of course, in the Design section, talking about the installation of radiators early. Nevertheless, the connection of heating batteries should be thought out already at this stage. In the sense, choose the method of connecting radiators to the pipeline.

What are you speaking, ask you a question?

The most efficient connection of heating batteries

What is known, section radiators have four outputs (or input?):

At first glance, as if without a difference, in which of these places to attach the feed and reverse tube. But it is only at first glance. Because S. different options Battery connects will work with different efficiency.

To make you not tomorrow, I immediately show the way the connection is considered to be most effective. This is:

The radiator with this connection method warms up the most fully, evenly, and its heat transfer is better than with other methods.

Consider for comparison and other ways.

One-sided connection of heating batteries

Such a connection schematically looks like this:

And with such a connection, there is a limit on the number of sections: for an aluminum radiator not more than 20 sections.

Lower connection of heating batteries

Here, the feed and reverse is joined to the lower outputs of the radiator:

According to this battery scheme, they are connected when the pipes pass the walls or by the floor (for example, with a collector wiring). As we see from the picture, the efficiency with such a connection is still reduced, up to 88%.

Connecting heating batteries with lower feed

The mirror reflection of the first method, i.e. the flow at the bottom, and the reverse is diagonally at the top:

The efficiency of the radiator with this connection is only 80%.

And another battery connection option at the bottom:

The efficiency of the radiator is even less: 78%.

One-sided lower connection of heating batteries

There are radiators that have input and exit near. Schematically connecting such radiators looks like this:

Such a connection has the plus that the pipes are not noticeable, but the effectiveness with such a connection is also 78%. To score the necessary power with such radiators, you need to put more sections.

How does the method of installing the radiator on the effectiveness of his work?

In addition to the connection method, the efficiency of the radiator affects how it is installed. What am I talking about? Yes, about the following.

Usually the radiators are put under the windows and it is right and good ... if it were not for the windowsill. In the absence of the windowsill, the radiator would not hurt anything to give heat to air, which would be freely raised vertically up. And all 100% heat from the radiator would be on the heating of the room.

Due to the windowsill, the trajectory of air movement changes, the heat transfer is reduced by 3 ... 4%. If the radiator is subject to some kind of niche, then its effectiveness still falls, as much as 7%:

The decorative screens further reduce the heat transfer of heating batteries. If the screen has an air access space at the bottom, the heat transfer is reduced by 5 ... 7%:

And the heat transfer radiators completely closed with a decorative screen falls and in general at 20 ... 25%.

Conclusion: If you really want to hide the heating battery from the eye, choose at least such screens that have access to the bottom.

So, now you know almost (theoretically :)) Everything about connecting heating batteries. And directly about the installation of them in one of the following articles.

connecting heating batteries

First you need to decide which steel radiator must be connected - with side or lower connections.

Steel panel heating radiator is connected similarly to aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The steel radiator with the lower connection has two outputs in the lower part - the feed and returns, which cannot be confused.

Schemes of lateral radiators

There are three main circuits for connecting pipes to the radiator:

1. Diagonal connection - most preferred option for maximum heat transfer. In this diagram, the feed pipe must be connected to the upper nozzle of one side, and the discharge - to the lower nozzle of the other side of the radiator. In this case, thermal power at the radiator is the maximum. With reverse connection - the feed pipe is from below, and the opposite - from above, the heat transfer of the radiator will decrease by 10%.

This scheme is preferable for long radiators and radiators with the number of sections of more than 12. Best option From an aesthetic point of view, there will be a laying option of suitable pipelines in the wall (in the stroke, or for false).

2. Side unilateral connection - The most common case in apartments. In this embodiment, the feed pipe is connected to the upper nozzle, and the reverse - to the lower, the same side of the radiator. At the same time, the maximum power is less than in the case of a diagonal connection by 2%. When connecting a suitable and return pipeline, the power decreases by another 7%.

3. Lower connection. This option of connecting the radiator is most often used when laying the main pipelines in the floor or wall, when there is no possibility to hide the pipes in the stroke.

The maximum heat transfer of the radiator is 7% less than when diagonal connections.

Connecting a steel panel radiator with lower connections

Steel radiators with lower connections, must be attributed to a single-sided circuit diagram, because All wiring (upper and lower nozzle) is made inside it.

It should also be remembered that when removing the steel radiator with the lower connection, it is impossible to change the submission and reverse. Reverse nozzle - always the first from the near corner (see Figure).

All steel radiators with lower connections are universal, that is, they can be connected via the bottom nozzles or the second option, drown out the lower nozzles and unscrew the upper integrated thermostatic valve. To connect the feed pipe to the valve, and connect the return pipeline to one of the lower side nozzles.

How to connect a steel heating radiator

The steel heating radiator with side connections is also mounted as any sectional radiator. In most cases, he has a 1/2 inches's internal thread, in which: plug, crane Maevsky and adjusting valves.

Steel radiators with lower connections in most cases are tied with copper, metal-plastic pipes or crosslinked polyethylene. To connect pipes to the radiator, as well as to cut off the radiator, the lower connection nodes (corner or direct) are used.

Nut spinning on 3/4 outer threads of the radiator, the pipe to the bottom connection node is connected via Euroconus 3/4.

In some steel radiators, the input fittings have an internal thread by 1/2 inches, to connect such a radiator to the bottom connection node, it is necessary to use special nipples 1/2 x 3/4 under the Euroconus.

In addition, such radiators can be connected using conventional thermostatic valves.

Designing heating or planning the replacement of old heating appliances in an apartment or a private house, the owners often think about whether the heating batteries are possible with their own hands. In fact, if you figure it out, the battery connection is a rather time-consuming process and take a long time, but it is quite possible to perform it with your own hands, if you adhere to the instructions and all operations are correct.

It must be borne in mind that on how correctly the interference of the heating batteries is made, the temperature comfort will depend on the house or apartment. It is necessary to look good for wiring options, methods that can be carried out by the radiators linked, competently carry out the heat engineering calculation, to ensure that each connection is performed correctly and tightly. If all requirements are fulfilled, all nuances are taken into account, connecting radiators to the system in an apartment or a private house will be successful.

Required preparations

Before starting performing work with your own hands, you will need to do all the necessary preparations and calculations:

If you are planning heating from scratch, not just change the old aggregates to new, you will need to design and draw on the plan of the building a highway. To do this, you will first need to explore the wiring options and choose the most suitable for your home.
It will be necessary to perform a heat engineering calculation in order to determine the parameters of heating appliances.

It will be necessary to think through all ways to control, as well as the possibility of service and repair without disconnecting heating.
Select the method of lining the radiators to the highway.
Stock all required tools and consumables.

Necessary information about the heating system - Wiring and connection methods

Before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with what ways are the distribution of the highway and the subtleties that must be considered by performing the connection with their own hands.

Highway heating in an apartment and a private house can be a single-tube or two-pipe:

A single-tube highway assumes the presence of one contour, which moves the coolant from the boiler through all heating appliances. The disadvantage of this method is the uneven heating of the batteries - the first battery in the chain is much stronger than the latter.
The two-pipe highway assumes the presence of two contours in the system. One by one is carried out by the supply of hot heat carrier, otherwise - a removal to the boiler of the cooled liquid. Here is a parallel battery and pipeline connection. This method guarantees a uniform warming of all radiators.

If you compare these two types, it is undoubted that the two-pipe layout is much more efficient. However, its installation is much more complicated and more expensive - in some cases a single-tube system, as more economical, more profitable and more efficient.

According to the method of circulating the coolant, the following varieties distinguish:

Masters with natural circulation - the coolant in the system is moving due to the difference of pressures, which occurs when heating and cooled the fluid. In such a system, the pipeline must be mounted with a slope towards the movement of the fluid.
C. highway forced circulation - in the system to ensure the movement of the coolant used circulation pump. In this case, more stable operation is ensured, you can choose pipes with a smaller diameter, since the hydraulic resistance is not so important as in the first case. This method is much more expensive, it is more difficult to mount with your own hands and it makes you dependent on the presence of electrical energy - with its unauthorized disconnection, the heating of the house stops. However, it is more effective methodthan natural.

Exist various optionsHow to connect batteries with pipeline:

Radiators with side connections - eyeliner is performed through the upper and lower nozzles on one side of the unit.
Radiators with lower connections - the compound is carried out along the lower nozzles with the right and left side of the aggregate. It is believed that radiators with lower connection from the bottom heated is stronger, but this is an erroneous statement. Due to the heat convection, the heating of radiators with the lower way of the eyeliner occurs both along the upper and at the bottom level.
Radiators with a diagonal connection - a liner to the system is performed through the upper nozzle on one side and the bottom - on the other. With this scheme, the most uniform warming of the device is ensured.

Planning the performance of work with your own hands, you need to remember that in the system of the pipe of the radiator, the lower eyeliner is hidden in the floor - you will have to stick the grooves in which the pipeline will be laid. At the same time, it is necessary to properly heat the contour to avoid heat loss on the heating of the cold space under the floor.

Connecting heating radiators with their own hands

If we replace the old aggregates, first need to turn off the heating, pull the water and wait for the cooling of the batteries. If the system does not turn off and do not drain the water, there is a danger to get seriously cooled by a hot heat carrier.
After we managed to turn off the system, we disassemble the old aggregates. For this, we promote each connection to the highway - if the thread is not amenable to heat it. Then we will be able to turn it out due to the temperature expansion of the nut or coupling. If we are talking about cast-iron batteriesIt will be necessary to resort to the services of the assistant, since such products have a very large mass.
When replacing old devices to new, it is better to save the size of the centers in the new batteries so that it does not have to reinstall the alignment to the heating line. Each threaded connection is cleared and check for damage - if any are detected, cut off the damaged area and cut a new thread with a radiator.

With the help of an assistant, we put a new radiator to the wall and mark the place where the brackets will be located. After that, each bracket is attached to the wall with a dowel. Pre-calculate the ability of the wall to cope with the load - if there are doubts, we provide additional support with the help of an outdoor retainer.
We perform the connection of the radiator using threaded connections using stacking of elastic rubber or paronite. The hermetic connection will keep you from premature leaks - in order to ensure the right tightening force, we use a dynamic key.
Turn on the equipment and follow the lack of leaks and how efficiently the batteries are happening. If everything is normal, work can be considered completed.

Conclusion

By installing new heating batteries in your home, you can make it yourself with your own hands. In order for all operations to perform correctly, you need to competently plan the process, take into account all the subtleties and nuances. If all calculations are fulfilled correctly and the system is designed optimally, you can only diligently implement the entire algorithm - from your accuracy and hardworking will depend warm in your home.

The heating battery procedure itself is reduced to two operations:

installation of radiators in the place specially selected for this;
connect the battery to the heating system.

Installation of heating radiators

Choosing a place to accommodate radiators, proceed from the need not to warm the room, but also create a kind of " heat vest", A kind of protective thermal screen from permeating draft or frosty air, which entrance door or windows. Therefore, the radiators are mounted either on the wall "hallways" or under the window.

The design of radiators on the legs are still very rarely (mainly it is the design radiators from cast iron), almost always batteries are fixed on the wall. So that the actual heat transfer was the maximum distance from interior Wall The sections are recommended to leave no more than 5 cm, and from the floor - up to 12 cm. The radiator should be set in such a way as to provide free access to the valves and cranes.

Modern radiators are unified for any type of connection with a riser, having two upper and lower end point connectivity.

It is important! When installing the radiator on the mounting brackets, it is necessary to control the level of correctness of the horizontalization to avoid in the subsequent appearance of air traffic jams.

After installing the radiator, the diagram of connecting the heating batteries to the central heating system is determined. However, it is necessary to consider that in high-rise buildings a single-tube sequential connection of heating batteries is used, so it cannot be spontaneously replaced by parallel without consultation with a specialist.

Before determined with the connection to the heating riser of the house, it is necessary to pay some attention to the type of heating system itself in the house. Currently there are a single-tube and two-pipe version of the organization of the heating of a residential building. From which system is applied depends on how to connect the heating battery.

One-tube heating system

In a single-tube system, the coolant is supplied along a vertical tube to sequentially connected heating radiators, losing gradually its initial operating temperature. In such structures there are no pipelines of the reverse reception of the spent, that is, already cooled, coolant. At one time, Soviet builders were very satisfied, since the vertical system is just with one pipe is easy to install, it is economical on the consumption of materials (there are no connecting pipes, jumpers and reverse risers) and easy to maintenance. But this simplicity served a bad service of the operational services and the residents themselves.

The sequential connection of heating batteries is doomed to the unequal temperature of the temperature on the upper and lower floors of the building and even within each apartment. Other minus one-pipe system is the need for injection high pressure Coolant to ensure uniform heating along the circulation circuit. This leads to frequent emergency leaks and wear of heating equipment.

Here are two independent pipelines, one - for the supply of hot heat carrier, the other - to receive the cooled. They are connected by the final device instrument. With such a two-pipe system, the question of how to connect two heating batteries is solved by parallel connections. The two-pipe system does not require such a high pressure of the coolant as one-tube.

Methods for connecting heating batteries

There are sequential and parallel batteries.

When serially connected, the radiators are built directly into the heating system, as it were, it would be an integral part. Hot water under pressure passes through them, not allowing you to adjust the temperature of the battery. Repair and replacement of the battery can be performed only when the water is disconnected and drained from the entire system. An emergency situation forces to break completely heating on all riser, only then start repairing.

To avoid strong cooling of the hot heat carrier in a system with a serial one-sided connection of radiators, the input and output nozzles are connected by the jumper on the closing area. Then the part of the hot heat carrier with a temperature close to the initial will pass by the next heating device. Here it is impossible to miss with the definition of pipeline diameters on all areas. Such calculated strapping often in high-rise buildings violates spontaneous dismantling of the jumpers, which is absolutely not permissible.

With parallel connection, the radiators are powered by the coolant through the pipe embedded in the overall vertical riser. In the same way, water from the battery is given. Thanks to the ball cranes, you can overlap the movement of the coolant for conducting repair workwithout creating problems to yourself and neighbors. The inconvenience of this scheme consists in insufficient heating batteries in case of reduced pressure in the system, since the main flow of the coolant will flow through the trunk pipeline.

Battery connection options will depend on their type, for aluminum and bimetallic batteries, use a parallel connection, and for pig-iron and tubular optimal is a sequential connection.

Wiring of heating radiators

An unambiguous criterion, how to properly connect the heating battery, does not exist. The structure of the design of radiators allows the supply of pipes from the bottom, on the side and on both ends of the battery. At present, in addition to metal pipes, metal-plastic, polyethylene and polypropylene tubes are widely used. The most optimal price / quality price / ease of installation is the connection of the heating battery with polypropylene.

Side connection of heating batteries

This method consists in connecting the supply branch (with a hot heat carrier) to the top nozzle of the radiator, the discharge branch - to the bottom. In this way, maximum heat transfer is ensured. In the case of using a lateral one-sided connection for a radiator with a large number of sections, it is necessary to install a coolant duct extension, since the last sections are badly warmed up. The side connection is the most generally accepted scheme for high-rise buildings with a central hot heating system.

Lower connection

It is used by B. special casesWhen the heating system is placed in the floor. Pipe S. hot water And the pipe with cooled water is connected from the opposite sides of the radiator to its lower nozzles and leave vertically to the floor. This scheme loses the efficiency of lateral and diagonal connections.

Diagonal connection

The layout principle is enclosed in connection hot water To the top nozzle on one side of the radiator and connecting the return to the bottom nozzle of the opposite side of the battery. The hot heat carrier is evenly distributed throughout the volume of the radiator. The scheme is perfect for multisective heating batteries and provides nominal heat transfer.

Select a set for connecting the radiator

In the event that there is a desire to make a junction with your own hands using polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes, it is necessary to remember that the standard thread (mainly half-wing) is used at the inlet to the radiator on both sides. Therefore, the pipes must be proportionate. In the connection sets there are gaskets made of silicone or pairs, so the special winding is not required when installing.

It is important! The abundance of information on the methods of connecting heating batteries often provokes consumers to spontaneously transfer and connect their own batteries, without thinking about the consequences for the neighbors on the riser. Without coordination with Housing and utilities specialists, you can create a lot of problems and yourself and neighbors.

Radiators are necessary elements of any heating system that perform their function by separating heat circulating in the heated coolant device. Modern radiators are unified devices having two lower and two upper technological holes (nozzle) for connecting pipes and air vent.

The choice of the optimal circuit of connecting the heating battery, installation sites and compliance with the rules of installation make it possible to achieve maximum efficiency in the heater for a long time.

In this article:

Main ways to connect

Regardless of the type of material (cast iron, steel, aluminum, bimetal) and the type of heating system used (with natural or forced circulation, single-tube or two-pipe), there are several basic schemes for connecting them. Each of these schemes has its own characteristics and can be applied depending on the specific conditions.

Types of heating radiators

diagonal;
lateral;
lower.

Consider more detail their features, advantages and disadvantages.

Diagonal (transverse)

In the diagonal diagram, the feed pipe is connected to one of the upper radiator nozzles, and the discharge pipe is to one of the lower, located on the opposite side of the instrument. As a result, the incoming heated coolant is evenly distributed throughout the volume. internal surface Radiator, providing maximum heat transfer.

At the same time, heat loss does not exceed 2%.

Stock Foto Diagonal connection scheme

It's believed that this scheme ensures the most efficient battery operation.. The rated power of the device specified by the manufacturer in the passport of the product is binding precisely to the diagonal type of connection.

The most claimed such a scheme when large quantities The radiator sections (more than 10-12), which ensures uniform heating of the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe device.

The disadvantages include:

additional pipe consumption;
complexity and inconvenience of installation;
neesthetic appearance.

In high-rise buildings, this scheme is practically not used.

Side (unilateral)

The feed pipe is connected to the top nozzle of the device, and the discharge pipe is to the bottom nozzle on the same side, i.e. Both pipes are connected to one of the extreme sections of the radiator.

This provides a fairly efficient and uniform heating of all sections with low heat losses (up to 2-5%).

The lateral connection scheme is the most common, including in high-rise buildings with a central heating system, due to the minimum consumption of materials and convenience of installation at a sufficiently high heat transfer of instruments.

The greatest effect is achieved when the batteries are connected with 10-15 sections, as well as in multi-unit residential buildings With parallel connected heaters.

With an increase in the number of sections, thermal efficiency is dramatically reduced by uneven warm-up of the other side of the radiator.

Side connection battery

The overcomes pipe will join one of the lower pipes, and the discharge pipe is to the second lower pipe from the opposite side.

With this version of the connection top and bottom part The device can warm up unevenly, and heat loss can be up to 15%. However, this is more often characteristic of systems in apartment houses With a large number of heating devices and large pipes. For autonomous Systems Private houses such heat loss are practically not noticeable.

Saddle scheme

Most often a saddle scheme used for private one-storey houses When the pipes are laid under the floor or hidden inside it.

This allows you to significantly improve the external design of the radiator, making the pipe with almost imperceptible.

A separate type of bottom circuit is a vertical connection, which is used for certain types of heating devices of a special design (and radiators with lower liner).

Vertical scheme for radiators with lower eyeliner

In such radiators, the connections of the supply and discharge pipes are located nearby in the lower part of the device. The connection uses a special shut-off-connected node.

Advantages: Saving materials and improved design by imperceptibility of connected pipelines.
Disadvantages: uneven heating and decrease in heat transfer efficiency.

How to connect the battery with your own hands

All methods of connection

Regardless of the type of connection, it is desirable to install locking cranes on the supply and discharge pipe.

This will allow without problems to turn off and dismantle the radiator in case of its breakdown without stopping the work of the entire system for draining the coolant.

Instead of a shut-off crane on the submarine pipe You can install the thermostat with manual or automatic controlwhich will allow you to adjust the power of the heating device by changing the amount of supply of the heated coolant into it.

This will ensure automatic maintenance of the desired temperature mode in room.

How the wireless thermostat works read it.

According to many specialists engaged in the installation of heating systems, the thermostat is better to install not on the supply, but on the discharge pipe.

As practice shows, this makes it possible to improve the heat transfer of the heating device and increase the efficiency of adjusting its operation by limiting the outflow from the radiator of the cooled coolant.

Video with connection examples

To remove air radiator from the inner space to one of its upper connections, the air vent (crane Maevsky) is installed. The air vent will increase the efficiency of the device heat transfer.

What connection is better - resume.

For Systems autonomous heating Private houses are preferable to use the side or lower compound scheme, as this will reduce the cost of materials, simplifies the installation and will provide the best aesthetic appearance with a fairly effective operation of heating devices.

Required tools and materials

The kit for connecting the radiator includes:

brackets for mounting the device;
transition nuts;
plugs;
air vent (crane Maevsky);
quick-disconnecting compounds of the "American" type and locking cranes (in separate configurations).

If these items are missing, it is necessary to buy a universal kit for connecting or purchase these parts separately.

A more specific list of materials and tools depends on the type of heating pipes. What pipes are better for heating we considered.

Most often use:

metal;
metal plastic;
polypropylene.

Connect K. metal pipes Can be implemented with:

welding - It turns out the most reliable connection having a fairly aesthetic appearance. However, this will require a gas welding machine and the skills of handling it;
on threaded connections - you need steel splits, couplings, tees or corners of the required diameter, plumbing flax, bollard or handwheel for metal, pipe and precipitated keys.

For connecting the battery to metal plastic pipes Special adapters, chrome or brass corners and tees are required.

From the tool you will need:

truboresis;
calibration;
press clamp;
cide or sliding wrench;
pipe bender.

When connected to polypropylene pipes We need transient clutches and / or fittings, a special machine welding machine, cutter or piperaza, precaste wrench.

Much better install radiator

Most. the best place It is considered the window opening, which is the main source of heat loss in the room. With this placement heating device Creates a heat curtain that prevents the penetration of outer cold air inside the room.

You also need to find additional heating points in corner rooms With outdoor walls.

For good circulation of heated air and maximum battery heat transfer stick these rules:

the distance from the lower edge of the window opening to the battery is at least 8-10 cm;
the distance from the floor level to the battery is at least 10-12 cm;
the distance between the battery case and the wall is at least 2-5 cm;
the width of the surface of the battery must be at least 50% of the overall width of the window opening.

If you are just going to purchase a radiator, we recommend immediately selecting its width and height so as to ensure the required minimum distances when installing it in the selected place.

It should also be borne in mind that the use of decorative lattices can reduce heat transfer by 10-20%. Therefore, their use is justified if the radiator heats up too much. In this case, the grille will not only improve the appearance of the heater, but also reduce its excessive heat transfer.

Installation order

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

When installing a new radiator, the polyethylene packaging film is not removed from it until all the work is completed, so that it is accidentally staining or not to scratch its surface.
The heating highway overlaps and the old radiator is dismantled (if replaced).
The walls are placed on the wall and drill holes for the battery mounting brackets in compliance with the minimum required distances from the windowsill, gender and walls. After that, the brackets themselves are fixed on the wall.
Adapter nuts, plugs, air vent, locking cranes and / or thermostators are installed on the instrument, depending on the selected connection scheme. At the same time, to ensure tightness, all threaded compounds before assembly are wrapped with plumbing flas and are additionally deceived by silicone sealant.
The device is placed on the mounting brackets and is aligned strictly horizontally with a level.
It is connected to the pipelines of the heating system using quick disconnect connections or adapters with their thorough sealing.
Pressing system and trial flow of the coolant is performed. All compounds are checked for the lack of leaks of the working fluid.

The implementation of all the rules for placement and installation will provide reliable and efficient efficiency of both the radiator itself and the entire heating system.