What floor is better to do in a brick house. How to make a floor in a private house on your own? Installation of subfloors on logs

The simplicity of the construction of the boardwalk is apparent. And it's not just that the ultimate load must be taken into account; for example, for the floors of the basement floor of a private house and the attic, it is different. Wood is a material, although malleable in processing, but “capricious” in its own way, as it easily undergoes deformation when humidity and temperature change. In addition, there is a specificity of its laying, depending on the type of base (floor). It is realistic to mount a high-quality wooden floor with your own hands, only having dealt with all the nuances of this work.

A wooden floor is a somewhat vague concept. Basically, when it comes to such a design of the lower part of the room, it means laying boards on the supporting structure. But if further, “finishing” finishing with other material (laminate, parquet board or something else) is expected, then mainly products (slabs, sheets) based on wood are used - multilayer plywood, chipboard, OSV, MDF.

The main purpose of such flooring is maximum leveling and ensuring sufficient surface strength. But oh wooden box in a private house as such in such cases it is not necessary to speak; this is his intermediate version, "finishing".

How to choose the right boards? When arranging a wooden floor in a private house, it is definitely not worth saving on them. Otherwise, such problems will arise (cracks, grooves in the flooring, deformation of individual floorboards) that subsequent repairs (taking into account the complexity of the work associated, among other things, with the need to free the room from everything) will be much more expensive.

Board type. Only grooved. Do-it-yourself processing at home is a very complex process, requiring practical skills, appropriate tools (which are not available in every home), time and a separate room.

There is another option - from the glue beam. But this lumber is used, as a rule, in rooms of a private house with an increased load on the floor, since it is not cheap.

Linear parameters (mm). Here it must be taken into account that the tree must provide not only high strength of the flooring, but also good thermal insulation bottom of the room. Optimal sizes are considered: total thickness - 45 ± 5 (depending on the specifics of the room), width - around 150.
moisture content of wood. 12% is the acceptable upper limit of its value. Therefore, you should purchase an industrial drying board. Naturally, it will be expensive. But all recommendations on how to remove excess moisture from a tree on your own are nothing more than profanity. It is necessary to choose an appropriate place on the site, to make a competent stacking of lumber, to organize its protection from moisture, good ventilation, acceptable temperature regime. And most importantly, wait. And this is time. Moreover, a high result is not yet guaranteed.

The grade of the tree. And in this regard, it is irrational to buy cheap boards. Not only that, even paint, especially varnish, will not hide large flaws in the form of knots, chips, and so on. Defects in the floorboards during the operation of the wooden floor will become more and more pronounced. The cracks will only get bigger; knots fly out of the boards, and “pits” or through holes will appear in their place.
Type of wood. Here it is desirable to maintain the optimal ratio between such properties of lumber as strength, beautiful texture and resistance to geometry changes under the influence of external factors. Experienced craftsmen recommend paying attention to oak and ash. Such boards are expensive, but for a wooden floor they are considered the best, as they are able to carry an increased load.

If this factor is not decisive, larch, fir, cedar or pine are perfect for floors.

The degree of protection of the tree. In production, more expensive products are impregnated with special / preparations from decay, ignition. This can be implemented (even recommended) with your own hands, but only in terms of secondary (additional) processing. It will not be possible to recreate industrial technology at home, therefore, the quality of work will be low.

What lags are used? Here you need to understand that during operation, any materials (even if visually imperceptible) change their geometry. Consequently, the integrity of the structure also depends on how much the coefficients of deformation of its elements coincide. For the installation of a wooden floor, metal profiles (although it is more convenient to work with them) are not suitable, only lumber. The recommended timber parameters are 100 x 100. This universal choice for floors in any room. Smaller samples (for example, 50 x 50) will have to be tightly “fastened” to the screed (otherwise the flooring will “play”), and this is not always possible or rational.

When should you do wood flooring? Experts consider the best period to be the end of March - the beginning of April, that is, before the end of heating period. There are several justifications.

At this time, it is easy to achieve the most comfortable conditions for such work. If necessary, effective ventilation can be arranged so that wood dust does not overcrowd the room. Then technical devices will not be needed.
The air humidity in the room is optimized. This ensures that the lumber does not absorb water, except perhaps in a minimal amount.
The nuances of arranging the screed are such that you will have to wait for it to completely harden. And the worse the external conditions, the longer.

As an option - in the summer. But the arrangement of the wooden floor should be started if weather forecasters guarantee stable dry weather for at least the next 10 days.

Preparatory work

Further - all stages, regardless of the specifics of the premises in a private building. What needs to be done in relation to the features of a particular room (location in the house, size, degree of arrangement, etc.) is easy to understand.

The foundation

This can be both a floor and a ground, if the floors are arranged on the basement floor. In any case, there are a number of activities.

Surface condition assessment and elimination of deficiencies

In relation to the ground, it is carefully leveled, compacted (the simplest rammer is easy to make with your own hands), and a sand cushion is arranged (the recommended layer thickness is about 20 cm). It performs two main functions - more accurate planning (levelling) and mitigation of the possible deformation of the upper levels when the load changes.

If it's about concrete floor(interfloor), then the plates are thoroughly washed, after which, during the inspection, existing defects are revealed. Any cracks, loose joints are sealed. Otherwise, in the future, possible leaks into the lower room and heat loss cannot be avoided.

Foundation waterproofing

If the base is soil, then it is advisable to immediately cover it with a film. Depending on the size of the room, you can either buy a membrane that will completely cover the floor (it will be more expensive), or make its original analogue by fastening several canvases by welding (you will need a special tool) or with adhesive tape, laying them with an overlap. The nuance is that the edges of the film should be bent up, approximately to the level of the intended installation of skirting boards. They will also close the excess waterproofing.

Arrangement of the screed

This is a separate and rather large topic (composition of the mixture, ratio of components, kneading rules - there are enough nuances). Therefore, only the main points.

Materials are selected based on the financial capabilities of the owner of a private house and the type of surface. If we are talking about overlapping, then the screed is made thin, with leveling compounds. For a soil base, it is advisable to pour expanded clay on the waterproofing.

The advantages of this solution:

round (comparatively) granules will not damage the polyethylene film under any circumstances. If you use crushed stone, then its breakthroughs in several places will appear unambiguously;
expanded clay is a good heat insulator. Therefore, it is possible to save some money on the material of the insulation (if it is to be mounted).

The recommended layer thickness (in mm) is from 40 to 100. You should focus on the size of the "pebbles"; the larger they are, the more layer is required, since gaps are formed between them, increasing heat loss. Small granules are stacked quite tightly, therefore the layer can be made smaller.

Advice. Costs can be optimized if you purchase expanded clay of different fractions. Then its thickness will be no more than 50 - 70. But only well-dried granules should be laid; they will begin to draw excess moisture "on themselves" (that is, absorb), additionally protecting the tree from dampness.

It is advisable to install the beacons and level them immediately, before pouring the solution. After leveling it, you will have to wait for the screed to dry completely (at least 4 weeks, and then, with favorable conditions in the House). This largely explains why experts recommend certain periods for organizing wooden floors in a private house.

It is impossible to accelerate this process artificially (with the help of technical devices in the form of heaters, heat guns, and so on). Such rationalization will result in the fact that the screed will dry out unevenly over the entire depth. The top layer will set quickly and literally clog the surface. This will drastically reduce the rate of evaporation of moisture from the lower levels. As a result, a decrease in the strength of such a base and the appearance of cracks.

Installation lag

In a private house, they can be laid directly on the base, without arranging a screed (for example, in the basement). In this case, it is advisable to prepare small brick racks. Here the main attention is on the upper sections of such supports. They must be in the same (horizontal) plane. To prevent the beam from moving, a metal pin or wooden insert is placed in the center of each post. It is not difficult to guess how to fix the lag in this or that case.

If the logs are laid directly on the ground or screed, then it is desirable to treat the lower planes of the timber with tar. The work is easy, and it does not require money. The advantage of this solution is additional protection wood from absorbing moisture from a damp surface.

Sometimes, a supporting frame (crate) is preliminarily mounted on the supports, to which the logs are “fastened” with self-tapping screws. As a rule, this is done when laying them directly on the ground or slab, since the pillow may not provide perfect alignment.

The recommended interval between lags is about half a meter. If more, the strength of the flooring decreases; less - increases the consumption of materials and the load on the floor. In addition, there will be problems with the installation of a heat-insulating layer.

Wooden floor insulation

Do it or not worth it - it's up to the owner. This largely depends on the specifics of the room. But if it is unheated, or residential, located on the lower floor, then additional thermal insulation in the form of expanded clay and the boards themselves are clearly not enough. Optimal choice for warming a wooden floor - mineral wool. It is sold in various modifications, but products with the prefix "eco" are considered the best for a private home.

The material is elastic, therefore, even if the lag axial lines do not coincide (the "cells" are curved), it is quite easy to lay the mats; they compress slightly and are easy to fit into place. And after straightening, they are securely held between the lags, while there are no gaps along the beam-insulation line. Therefore, gap sealing is not required.

When choosing mineral wool in thickness, you need to focus on the fact that after installing the mats (plates) between the lags, they are slightly lower than their upper cut. This is necessary to form a small space under the wooden floor, through which air can circulate freely. Natural ventilation helps to remove excess moisture from under the flooring, thereby protecting the boards and insulation from moisture.

Finished floor installation

It is carried out in 1 or 2 rows. A single-row floor is arranged, as a rule, in utility rooms, country houses, sheds and the like. For most of the rooms in a residential building - only if a thick board is chosen or a "finish" lining with parquet or laminate is supposed.

With double boardwalk field the boards are taken thinner (the main thing here is the total thickness of the flooring). The advantage is that for the first level fit cheap lumber; and this gives some savings. Sometimes the owners of private houses lay a film between the rows, which also partially reduces heat loss and increases the degree of waterproofing.

Features of laying a wooden floor

A small gap is left between the walls and the floorboards (about 1.5 - 2 cm) so that the flooring does not begin to warp when the wood expands or gets wet. In addition, this installation scheme guarantees efficient natural ventilation spaces under the floor. Therefore, the risk of mold and mildew on the boards is minimized.
The first board (from any edge) is rigidly attached to the joists; and self-tapping screws. If you use nails, then problems will arise in the future - individual floorboards will begin to “play”, and the creak of the boards will constantly be heard in the house.
Their adjustment is done with a hammer and a piece of board, carefully so that the tenon fits snugly into the groove along the entire length of the sample. But this is the case with the profile board. If an ordinary edged one is bought, the technology changes.

First, the extreme boards are fixed on the logs. All the rest, in turn, fit between them simultaneously from both directions. Naturally, in the center of the room there will be difficulties; the last floorboards will not lie exactly in place. They are put in a “house”, and then they are pressed down, standing on his “horse”.

The last stage is screwing all the boards to the joists at pre-designated points. Beforehand, a chamfer is made in each of them so that the head of the fastener is completely “drowned” in the tree.

It has already been noted that self-tapping screws should be used as fasteners. The nuance is that you need to choose not ordinary products, but with a coating against corrosion. Otherwise, rust spots will appear quite quickly in the places where the boards are fixed to the joists.
It is advisable to “walk” along the lines of the joints of the floorboards with a grinder. If wooden floors are equipped in a private house, then it is worth buying it; it will be needed again, and more than once. Processing the seams will smooth out the existing irregularities between the boards. This is especially true for decks that are supposed to be varnished, which is most often done to preserve the grain of the wood.

It turns out that when installing a wooden floor in a private house, it is quite possible to do without the services of professionals. Following the above recommendations, all stages of work are easy to do with your own hands.

Despite the clear advantages of living in own house not everyone will decide to exchange a comfortable apartment for him. The main reason for this choice is the fear of the need for constant care of the building, site and communications. In high-rise buildings, most of this work is done by utilities, while in the private sector, the responsibility falls entirely on the owner. And take on independent construction units are capable. If you decide to take such a responsible step, not being a professional builder, you need to take every step of this difficult task with full responsibility. In this article we will figure out how to properly arrange the floors in a private house. This is not about a decorative coating, but about choosing a floor design, its proper waterproofing and insulation.

The choice of material for the base device

Quite often, wood is used for flooring in private housing construction. This is due not only to long-term traditions, but also to practical considerations. This material has several undeniable advantages:

Durability;
Environmental friendliness;
maintainability;
Low thermal conductivity;
Relative ease of installation.

Having settled on this option, it is important to choose the right wood. There are several criteria that must be met raw material in order for the floor to be strong, durable and warm:

First of all, you need to pay attention to the type of wood. It is best to arrange wooden floors in a private house made of oak or ash - such a floor will be the most durable. However, the cost of such material is quite high and not everyone can afford it. They performed well and conifers trees - larch, pine, spruce, cedar and fir.
Boards and bars must be dry. Their humidity cannot exceed 12%. Otherwise, during operation they may lead.

Wood should not have cracks and chips, and to protect it from insects it is treated with antiseptics

Despite all the advantages of wood, many people prefer to equip the floor with concrete. Most often, this choice is due to the durability of the material. Choosing this method, it is important to make sure the quality of the concrete and strictly observe the technology of work.

Options for possible designs

First of all, you need to choose the type of construction of your floor. This choice depends on how you plan to use the building. Yes, for country house, which will be used only in summer, a single plank floor is enough, and for a full-fledged residential building where you plan to live permanently, you need to choose a well-insulated option.

Option number 1 - single plank floor

This is the easiest flooring option to perform and operate. It is suitable only for summer buildings or housing in regions with a warm climate. If the project of the house provides for the embedding of the floor beams into the walls, then the width between them, as a rule, is too large to immediately lay the boards. To ensure the necessary strength of the floor, you need to lay logs - wooden bars. If you plan to install the floor on the supporting pillars, you can immediately place the beams at the required distance from each other and do without additional costs for logs.

The distance between the lags depends on the thickness of the floorboard. So, if you plan to use a grooved board 38 mm thick, the distance between the lags can be 60-70 cm. If the board is 28 mm thick, you need to lay the logs more often - at a distance of half a meter from each other

So on bearing beams we lay the logs and set them in level with the help of wooden spacers and wedges. After making sure that all the bars are on the same level, we fasten them to the beams with nails, and then we nail the boards to them.

Option number 2 - double plank floor

This version of the floor device will require much more cost and effort, but it can greatly reduce heat loss. Draft is recommended to be made from coniferous wood. In order to save money, you can use an unedged board or slab here.

As a rule, I lay a layer between the rough and finish floor thermal insulation material. For these purposes, expanded clay or a mixture of clay with sawdust or straw is used. Of course, you can also use modern materials- Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene foam. On top of the insulating material, a finishing floor is laid from a grooved board.

Option number 3 - concrete floor

The device of a concrete floor in a private house is divided into several stages:

First you need to make markup. The easiest way is to use a laser level for these purposes. It is installed at the bottom of the doorway and marks are made on the walls. This will be the level of the future floor. To mark the level in the center of the room, nails are driven into the walls according to the marking and thin ropes are pulled.
Now let's start organizing gravel backfilling. This layer will serve as thermal insulation for your floor. We level the soil and clean it of debris. Then we drive in pegs, each of which should be 10 cm below the level of the future concrete screed. We start dumping from the wall of the opposite door. When the entire area is covered, we level and compact the gravel flush with the pegs and remove the latter.
Then it is necessary to pour a layer of sand, compact it and smooth the surface.
Proper waterproofing of the floor is of great importance; in a private house, the concrete floor is most often protected from moisture with a polyethylene whip, at least 250 microns thick.
Now you can start filling. First, according to the level, we will install beacons from wooden slats at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other. It is necessary to do this so that the top edge of the rail touches the stretched rope. After that, the markings from the ropes can be removed.
We fill the space between the two slats with concrete, starting from the far wall. Then we level it with the rule and remove the excess.

Important! For high-quality waterproofing, polyethylene should go 10-15 cm onto the walls, that is, above the level of the concrete screed. In addition, if the width of the polyethylene sheet is less than the width of the room, and you are using several strips, carefully connect them together with construction tape.

Pouring concrete floor on expanded clay. The rule for leveling can be any flat rail, a little longer than the distance between the guides

When the concrete "grabs", it is necessary to remove the slats, and fill the voids with mortar and level with a "grater" for plaster. Now we cover the floor with polyethylene and leave for 3-4 weeks. It is advisable to remove the film every few days and moisten the concrete. This will allow the material to gain maximum strength.

The subtleties of the device "warm floor"

Do not forget about such a novelty as underfloor heating, because in a private house the installation of such a heating system is most justified. This is especially true when the room is heated not by radiators, but by means of pipes with a coolant located under the floor surface. It should be noted that heating in a building with a wooden floor is very problematic and not very efficient. This is due to the low thermal conductivity of wood. But it allows you to successfully use it.

If you still intend to equip a warm floor in wooden house, use electric or infrared system

Whichever flooring option you choose for your home, remember that it is important to follow the technology exactly and not save on materials, even after finishing works they won't be visible. With poor-quality work on the installation of the subfloor or its thermal and waterproofing, even the most expensive decorative coating will soon become unusable.

When choosing floor covering in a private house are taken into account climatic conditions region, planning features and purpose of the premises. Types of floors: concrete, dry screed, wood. Unlike an apartment, a cottage does not require permission to install a warm water base. For its installation, it is necessary to make calculations, lay pipes and connect them to heating system. The heated substrate makes it possible to save on heating.

What is the best cover to choose?

One of the stages of building a house is the installation of the floor. When choosing its design, they take into account operating conditions, materials, the financial capabilities of the owner, and the interior. You can make floors in a private house:

wooden;
concrete;
with a base of dry screed;
warm.

Wooden bases are popular due to the environmental friendliness and availability of the material. They retain heat well and are pleasant to the touch. Easy to wash, repair, have a beautiful appearance do not require finishing. They are often arranged on the first floor, as the coldest.

A single plank floor has simple design: lumber is attached directly to the logs. The main disadvantage of such a coating is the limited use, it is laid in dachas, in summer houses with seasonal residence, non-residential premises. For a house in which it is planned to live year-round, a double wooden floor is arranged, consisting of a base, a rough and a finishing coating. The disadvantage of wood is susceptibility to decay, fungi and pests. To protect against them, the material is processed by special means.

Concrete flooring is popular due to its low cost. Filling can be done with your own hands, if you know the basics and have building experience. One of the disadvantages is that it takes a long time to dry the screed. Concrete is cold, so the base should be insulated. At the final stage, installation of the floor covering is necessary. Depending on the purpose of the room, it can be tile, laminate, linoleum, carpet.

A dry screed is mounted faster, it makes it possible to create additional thermal insulation, put any floor covering on top.

Warm floors are popular due to their efficiency and high efficiency. They save on heating costs. They can be made the main source of heating or combined with radiators. The cheapest to operate is a water-cooled base heated by a gas boiler. The option with electric heating is thinner than with water heating, it is easier to install, quickly turns on and off, and is more convenient to adjust.

Wooden floor decking

To serve the floor in a private house long years, it is necessary to choose high-quality wood. The floor covering experiences significant mechanical stress, so lumber is chosen with high technological characteristics. It should be well dried, with a moisture content of no more than 12%. Deformations, cracks and chips on the surface are unacceptable. Experts recommend using conifers: cedar, pine, fir, larch.

To protect against fungus and pests, the tree is coated with an antiseptic, and treated with a flame retardant to increase fire safety.

The floor device includes logs, subfloor, rough and finish coating, heat and waterproofing. The subfloor performs the function of an air gap that prevents the accumulation of moisture. Without it, the tree will quickly become worthless.

Installation consists of the following steps:

1. First install the support pillars. They can be brick, foam blocks, etc.
2. Then the fertile soil layer is removed, gravel is poured, a sand cushion is placed on top. Each layer is carefully compacted.
3. At the next stage, waterproofing is laid, fixed at the ends of the supporting pillars (roofing material is used).
4. Next, with the help of metal corners, the logs from the edged timber are fixed.
5. The space between the beams is filled with a heat insulator. Experts recommend using mineral wool.
6. After laying the insulation on the support beam, a rough coating is mounted. The boards are laid tightly to each other so that there are no gaps. They are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws.
7. An air gap of 1.5 cm is left along the perimeter between the walls and the flooring for ventilation, as well as to protect the walls from expanding the floor boards when dried.
8. A vapor barrier layer of polyethylene film is laid on the rough coating. The joints of the strips are additionally fixed with adhesive tape. The edges are wrapped on the walls (about 20 cm).
9. When the vapor barrier layer is fixed, a finishing coating of boards, parquet, cork is mounted.

The wooden floor may have a concrete base. To avoid height differences, it is made using a self-leveling mixture. Then they lay a waterproofing layer, mark the floor under the logs, mount the studs for their fastening. The beams are laid in increments of at least 60 cm, having previously drilled holes in them for the fixing material. The free space is filled with insulation. A finishing floor or plywood is placed on top, on which a decorative coating is laid.

How to make a concrete screed?

The device of the concrete floor is being carried out in stages. The foundation is being prepared: garbage, plants are removed, the top layer of soil is removed. Then the markup is done. It is more convenient to use a laser level for this. It is installed at the bottom of the doorway and marks are drawn on the walls that determine the line of the future floor. To measure the level in the center of the room, nails are hammered into the walls, according to the markup, and twine is pulled.

Next is the gravel backfill. Pegs are installed so that they are 10 cm below the future level of the cement screed. They begin to pour gravel from the wall opposite the door. When the area is completely filled up to the height of the pegs, the latter are removed. A pillow of sand is arranged on top of the gravel. Both layers are well compacted.

At the next stage, waterproofing is made of polyethylene with a thickness of at least 250 microns. It is necessary to protect against moisture. The film is laid so that its edges go onto the walls 10-15 cm above the cement screed. All seams of polyethylene strips are connected with construction tape, proceed to pouring.

With the help of a level, beacons from wooden slats are set in increments of 1-1.5 m. The upper edge of the slat should touch the stretched twine. After installing the beacons, the ropes are removed. For a concrete screed, only fresh mortar is taken, which is prepared from cement grade not lower than M300, sand and water. Plasticizers are added to make concrete stronger. If its thickness exceeds 5 cm, reinforcement is performed.

Before pouring, a special mesh or reinforcement is laid on the waterproofing layer. Start concreting from the far wall, filling the space between the first two slats. Then, using the rule, the solution is leveled, the excess is removed. When the concrete sets a little, the slats are removed. The resulting voids are filled with mortar and leveled with a trowel for plaster.

After sealing the cracks, the concrete is covered with plastic wrap and left to dry for 3-4 weeks. Experts recommend during drying at intervals of several days to remove polyethylene and moisten the coating. This procedure will allow him not to crack and gain maximum strength.

On the concrete screed lay laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles, cork.

Underfloor heating secrets

The increasing popularity is gained by a warm water floor. It can serve as the basis for heating or maintain comfortable living conditions. It depends on the overall heat loss, the climate in the area, and the design features of a private house. They are not suitable for wooden flooring, as wood does not conduct heat well. The best way - cement strainer. A concrete floor with water heating is used for the first, basement floors, if the base is a sand cushion.

Do-it-yourself installation of underfloor heating begins with the preparation of the base, it must be even without recesses and protrusions. Permissible difference value - 5 mm. If defects in height or depth exceed 1-2 cm, a leveling layer of fine gravel with a grain size of not more than 5 mm is poured.

The device of warm floors is carried out according to two methods: a snail and a spiral. In option 1, the entire surface is evenly heated. Thanks to the spiral, better heating is provided in colder areas. Therefore, the first hot branches are mounted in this zone. According to the drawing of the laying scheme, the required length of the pipes is calculated.

For a thermal floor only a solid pipe is used. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large, several heating circuits are mounted, each of which should not exceed 100 m2, so that there is enough pressure to circulate the coolant.

It is better to use metal-plastic pipes with a diameter of 16 mm. For thermal insulation, a heater with a thickness of at least 5 cm is laid on the base. If the base is soil, or the floor below is a cold room, the insulating layer is made 10 cm. To reduce heat loss, a metallized film is laid over the heat insulator, which acts as a reflective screen. It also requires protection, so polyethylene (75-100 microns) is laid on top. The strips of the film are overlapped, fastening the seams with construction tape.

Pipes are fixed with fasteners: metal mesh, slats, plastic brackets. Filling is carried out after the laying is completed, the connection to the collectors is made, and the system is filled with a coolant at a pressure of 4 bar. A damper tape is laid along the perimeter to compensate for expansion, to insulate the floor from walls, and to eliminate cold bridges through which heat is lost.

Before concreting, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on top of the pipes, if strips and brackets were used as fasteners. A concrete screed is made from 5 to 10 cm, there must be at least 3 cm of solution above the pipe. With insufficient thickness, cracking of the surface is possible, with an excess, heat loss is inevitable. While the concrete sets, it is covered with plastic wrap to maintain normal humidity. Completely screed freezes 28 days.

Dry screed - an alternative to cement coating

A floor based on a dry screed is mounted faster than wood or concrete. It is important to choose high-quality bulk material: slag, silica, perlite or quartz sand, fine-grained expanded clay.

If the mixture is correctly distributed over the area, it almost does not shrink, it is a good heat and sound insulator. Such foundations, if well executed, will last a long time.

Phased installation begins with a polyethylene film waterproofing device. The material is laid with an overlap on the walls of 10-15 cm. Then beacons are installed, which will serve as a guide for alignment. The dry mixture is poured onto the base and distributed evenly over the surface using the rule. To prevent the mass from crumbling, they are installed wooden partitions at a distance of 60-80 cm.

Sheet materials are laid on top of the dry screed: plywood, moisture-resistant GWP boards, etc. In order for the surface to be even, it is important to correctly lay the first sheet using the level, and then the rest, focusing on it. Installation starts from the door, moving along the wall so as not to disturb the evenness of the embankment. At the same time, the plates are not pressed into the poured mixture, they are carefully moved along the surface. Horizontalness is checked building level. The areas to be covered are well compacted in front of the flooring, especially in places of significant loads.

Gypsum-fiber boards are connected with the help of folds located on them. Finished sheets are laid on the mixture, shifting each next half, as when laying bricks, to increase stability. To do flooring more durable, a second one is arranged on top of the first layer, and its sheets should lie perpendicular to the bottom ones. The top and bottom layers are fastened with glue and self-tapping screws. Fasteners are screwed under load, the role of which is played by the weight of the master, who has become on the top sheet. On the doorways the material is not joined, the canvas should be in both rooms.

After installation, the joints and heads of the self-tapping screws are puttied to level the surface. Before finishing, a waterproofing material, such as a sealant, is applied around the perimeter of the room at the places where the coating adheres to the walls. In the bathroom before decorative trim The boards are coated with waterproofing.

Any person who is thinking about building a home, among the naturally arising questions, also has this question - how to make a floor in a house? This is one of the most important points, since not only the heat in the rooms, but also the durability of the entire structure will depend on the quality of the work performed and the chosen method. Therefore, before choosing the type of future floor, you need to carefully consider and calculate everything.

Both in wood and brick house ground floor floors can be done different ways, and much in this choice will depend on the height of the basement of the building. So, the floor can be arranged with:

Concrete screed made in an already built house or before the walls were erected;

Log and floor beams with plank or plywood flooring;

Dry screed of the desired thickness;

Complex construction, when a concrete base is laid wood flooring or dry screed.

In addition, you need to know that the screed can be made in different ways, taking into account which decorative coating will be laid on top of it, as well as whether any work will be carried out on its additional insulation. Therefore, all options must be considered.

Filling the screed on the ground before the construction of walls

Such a base is made immediately after the strip foundation hardens. Such a screed is designed for the fact that the floor will be insulated in the future, otherwise it will remain cold, which means that the temperature in the house will be uncomfortable.

The convenience of installing a concrete base in this case lies in the freedom of action. When the walls have not yet been raised, you can freely level the soil inside the frozen foundation and bring the material for backfilling pillows under the screed. In addition, you can order a ready-made solution from a company engaged in the manufacture and delivery building materials, and it will be possible to bring it to the right place, fill it and distribute it without any problems. This will save you from long and laborious work on self-manufacturing large volumes of concrete.

Another advantage of this approach to pouring the screed can be considered a good strengthening of the foundation and further convenience in the construction of walls.

The work is carried out in stages, and the first of them consists in leveling and, if necessary, removing excess soil. It is removed so that pillows of sand and gravel take its place.
At the site of the future screed, the soil is carefully compacted.
A sand cushion is poured on top, which will serve as a kind of waterproofing. Every 10 cm of sand thickness is wetted and well compacted before the next layer is poured.
Crushed stone laid on the sand will give the screed strength. The thickness of the layer will depend on the height of the foundation, and in general the screed should rise to the level of the basement.
Next, a reinforcing mesh with cells of 100 × 100 mm is placed on the compacted and leveled crushed stone.
After reinforcement, concrete mortar is poured. Because concrete base further it will be necessary to insulate, and the floors, in most cases, rise to the logs, then the solution does not need to be made thin - it can consist of cement and gravel. For the same reason, excessively high requirements are not imposed on the careful leveling of the surface, although the “cleaner” the resulting base is, the easier the further stages of work will go.
In order for the concrete layer to be durable, during the hardening process, starting from the second day after pouring, it is moistened with water.

When the base is ready, you can build walls and do roofing, and further work on the flooring and insulation of the real floor is carried out after installing windows and doors.

Video: pouring a concrete base floor before building walls

Screed on the ground in an already built house

If the house is built, and the flooring is left as the last final stage before finishing the walls, the base for the screed is prepared a little differently.

The first action is performed in the same way as in the first case - the soil is leveled and compacted.
Next comes a very important point This is waterproofing. In this case, it is best to use roofing material. It will protect the screed from moisture, and hence the walls.

They also make waterproofing from ordinary polyethylene, but you only need to choose a material that has a large thickness. But this is not the most the best way, since the polyethylene film becomes brittle over time from interaction with cements, and the waterproofing will not be highly reliable.

In any case, the waterproofing must be airtight, so the sheets are overlapped by 10-15 cm and glued together - polyethylene - with adhesive tape, and roofing felt bituminous mastic by heating it with a gas burner.

Sheets of material are lifted onto the walls and fixed. The waterproofing layer should be raised to a height slightly higher than the future screed.

It is not recommended to cut the waterproofing material in the corners - it must be carefully folded and also fixed.

After the waterproofing is arranged, preparation for pouring the screed can be done in different ways:

The most popular backfill option is expanded clay of the largest fraction. If the underground is deep enough and thermal insulation is carried out with expanded clay, it is laid in layers. Additional waterproofing layers can be laid between the layers.

Another backfill method may be an option similar to that used when laying before the walls are erected. Pillows of sand and gravel are laid on the waterproofing, their thickness will depend on the height of the basement walls. A polyethylene film is laid on top of these compacted layers, on top of which expanded clay is poured, which acts as a heater.

After backfilling and compaction of all layers, the reinforcing mesh is fixed. A screed solution is laid out on it. This may be a rough rough screed, which is made of cement and gravel, but it will need to be leveled on top with a finer concrete mortar.

If there are not so many layers, and the entire backfill consists only of expanded clay, then it will be enough only to finish pouring with concrete mortar and leveling it according to the installed beacons.

Wooden floor on logs

Usually, a plank floor is laid in a wooden house, but if desired, it can also be made in a brick or panel building. Again, there are several options for arranging a wooden floor on logs.

1. The basis for wooden flooring is sometimes made immediately upon completion of work on the foundation.

The floor beams are laid on the foundation, after laying several layers of roofing material under them and treating the end of the log or massive bar with protective antiseptic and waterproofing agents. Beams should lie at a distance of 1-1, 5 meters from each other.
Next, logs will be fixed on them, on which a subfloor is then arranged, and floorboards are nailed.

This option can be applied if the rooms in the house are not designed to be too wide. Another way could be so-called, "floating floor".

2. The design features of the "floating" floor are that for the floor beams, the support is not the foundation walls, but brick or concrete columns that are installed on the ground in the underground space.

The columns are set at a distance of 1-1, 5 meters from each other. For them, pits are dug in size based on the perimeter of the pillars, adding 7-10 cm to it.
The bottom of the pits is strengthened with a rammer and cushions of gravel and sand. Then waterproofing is laid and a brick column is laid out. Its height can be different, depending on the depth of the underground. All columns must be aligned to the same horizontal level.
When the masonry mortar is thoroughly dry, roofing material waterproofing is laid on top of the pillars. Bearing beams or logs will be fixed on them. Further, just as in the first variant, they arrange a rough and finishing floor. In addition, insulation can be carried out.

The black floor is arranged from boards, which are fixed on the underside of the lag. Boards can be tightly fitted to each other or fixed at a distance. The first option is used if fine fraction insulation is poured into the cells. The second is suitable for laying mineral wool or foam mats.
Before laying insulation on the black floor, the boards are covered with a vapor barrier material.

A heater is laid on it, which, in turn, is also covered with a vapor barrier film, and only then plywood or boards are fixed.

3. The next way to lay boards or plywood on logs is a structure, the basis for which will be a concrete screed.

On the concrete base markup is made for the correct placement of the lag. Bars are laid out along the drawn lines. They can be fixed directly to concrete, or they can be raised to the required height with the help of special supporting elements - adjustable racks. Both in one and in the other case, the logs are aligned along one horizontal level in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

After installing the log, floor insulation is usually carried out using mineral wool, expanded clay, expanded polystyrene or other modern materials.
The insulation is covered on top with a vapor barrier membrane. At the final stage, plywood sheets or boards are covered.

Video: an example of a floor device on wooden logs

Using a dry screed

With the help of a dry screed, floors can be made both on the ground and on a concrete base. Installation of a dry screed floor is quite simple and done quickly enough.

If the soil of the underground is raised high enough, then, having made it reliable, you can immediately backfill it with fine expanded clay. However, in order to avoid subsidence of the floor during any emergency (for example, during flooding during heavy snowmelt), it is strongly recommended to precede this process by pouring a rough screed with reinforcement.
Expanded clay composition for dry screed is scattered on the prepared surface and it is pre-leveled.
Then install in the poured material beacons - guides from galvanized metal profiles. They are set according to the level, at a distance of 80-100 cm from each other. It is not necessary to fix them, because after leveling the screed, the beacons are removed from it.
After leveling the entire floor (this work can also be carried out in sections), they lay on a leveled and compacted layer gypsum fiber plates.

On special GVL - sheets for dry screed, platforms are provided for their interlocking connection. Glue is applied to them, and the panels are connected, twisted with self-tapping screws, forming a single sheet. On such a surface, then it will be possible to lay any decorative coating.

"Dry screed" will be an excellent base for any floor finish

The article was produced only short review some existing types of flooring in the house. After learning how to do this and choosing the most optimal, it is worth studying in detail the technology of its installation and strictly follow the sequence of steps and follow all the recommendations. If you do everything right, then, even without experience in arranging the floor, you can do this work yourself.

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I had to learn a lot, but now Ivan can do everything construction works and even lay the floors in a private house with your own hands. Most useful information he learned from his best friend (i.e. me). If you also want to equip your home on your own and save on the wages of workers, then you have come to the right place. Let's get started.

During the construction of housing, the question always arises: “Which flooring is better to do?”. After all, under any circumstances, it must meet such requirements as the creation of healthy living conditions and safe operation. The floor must above all be: level, durable, hygienic and non-slip. There are several types of floor coverings:

the favorite of residents of private sectors is the wooden floor, since wood is not only environmentally friendly pure material, but also, in comparison with concrete - warm;
for those who prefer strength to heat, concrete floors are suitable;
floating and bulk floors are just gaining their popularity, but I think that over time they will eclipse even wooden ones, because their installation takes only 1 day.

Before choosing one of these coatings, I recommend getting to know each one better.

Several ways to lay a wooden floor

It is really possible to build a wooden floor even without the help of specialists, for this it is enough to familiarize yourself with the technology of its laying on different types grounds. The wooden covering happens in one and two layers (with a subfloor). If we talk about the advantages of wood flooring, we would like to note environmental friendliness and ease of installation. Aesthetically pleasing, practical and durable, wood flooring can brighten up any home.

Installation of covering on supporting pillars

The second name for this installation is "floating floor". This type of coating is produced mainly when the connection of walls with lags is impossible. The work takes place according to the following scheme:

Source: http://otdelkaexp.ru

We start with the formation of holes in the underground, in which we will install brick supports in the future. We cover the bottom with a 20-cm layer of loose material, for example, gravel, sand or crushed stone, fill it with water and carefully tamp everything.
On the compacted material, we begin laying brick supports (it is advisable to use red brick). There is another option: it is necessary to install reinforcement in the arranged formwork and pour the composition of cement and gravel. If you decide to form supports in the second way, then the section should be 50 * 50 cm. Check the height with a level and adjust if necessary.
From above, we introduce anchors or threaded studs into the poles to a depth of 15 cm (beams will be attached to them). In a small dwelling, the floor on the supporting pillars can be made in almost the same way as in a spacious one. The only difference is that the pillars are placed only around the perimeter of the room and the beams are chosen more massively.
After completing the preparation of the pillars, we lay 3-4 layers of roofing material on them. It will act as a waterproofing.
We make holes in the beams for mounting studs.
We put logs or beams on our roofing material, hook them onto studs and adjust them with a laser or water level. After laying the base, we fix the lining to the logs with nails. We also need to fix the logs on the poles with the help of nuts and washers.
We cut off the excess height of the studs using a grinder.
We fill the surface of the underground with expanded clay sand, a layer of 20 cm. I recommend using expanded clay, as it perfectly insulates the floors.

If you still decide to make two-layer floors, then it is necessary to immediately lay the floorboards on the beams, and completely fill the underground with expanded clay sand, while leaving no more than 10 cm between the layers.

Installation of a rough coating

The draft floor can be mounted in several ways. The method is selected depending on the insulation material used in the work. If either slag, then the coating must be made continuous, from floorboards that are attached to the lower cut of the beams.

We cover all the cracks with clay, and after it dries, we pour insulation into the cells.
We attach a layer of vapor barrier film to the bottom boards and beams and lay thin plywood.
Next, we put the insulation and again cover everything with a vapor barrier, fix it to the beams with brackets.
We fasten logs of 10 * 3 cm to the beams, which will become a support for thick plywood or floorboards.

How to make a draft floor you can see clearly in the video:

Installation of wood flooring on the ground

Installation of wooden coverings can be carried out not only on support pillars, but also on the ground. However, the scheme of work here will look different:

We thoroughly tamp the soil and pour a pillow 20 cm thick on it from gravel, crushed stone or sand.
We compact the bulk material and lay roofing material or any other material for waterproofing on it. The entrance to the walls must be at least 10 cm.
On top of the waterproofing layer, we put a support for the beams on the solution (you can use concrete blocks or bricks). The distance between the beams must be at least 60 cm so that insulation can be placed there.
In the free spaces between the beams we lay a heater (polystyrene, mineral wool and etc.).
We install wooden beams on supports made of blocks or bricks, level them with a level and fix them with a corner.
Whatever coating you choose, it is better to additionally insulate the surface with mineral wool slabs.
We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and lay the floorboards, fixing with nails.
In order for the floor to be ventilated, we leave gaps of 1-1.5 cm in size near all walls.

Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base

If a screed acts as a base under a wooden covering, you can lay logs directly on it. When the floor needs to be raised by 10-20 cm, it is laid on threaded studs. Do not try to save on lags - the reliability of the entire coating and the duration of its operation depend on them.

I’ll immediately note such a moment - there must be a rough coating on a concrete base. But, this should not scare you anymore, because we already figured it out earlier. So, the installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

We mark the placement of the lag (the distance between them will be 60 cm).
On the lines broken off by color, we put points at intervals of 30-40 cm and in these places we make holes into which we insert the fixing pins necessary to hold the beams, in which we will also make cuts.
Use the level to adjust the horizontal.
We drive the nuts twisted on the studs into the drilled holes. If there is an excess part, you can cut it off with a grinder.
Now you can mount the subfloor (see above) and the decorative coating.

Installing the lag on the screed

It is not at all difficult to install logs on a concrete screed, especially if you have all the necessary equipment.