How to distinguish apple and pear leaves. Several ways to understand that linden seedlings. Early ripe varieties of apple and pear

Even if you have a single fruit tree in your garden, you can grow different fruits on it. It will not be easy to plant an apple tree on a pear, but the result of this exciting process will surpass all expectations. It is known that apple and pear are related crops that require similar care and are highly resistant to cold weather. What do you need to do in order to get an amazing tree yourself?

How to properly plant a fruit crop

The most affordable method for changing a growing tree is budding. It implies careful grafting of fruit crops with a single bud - an eye with a thin layer of wood taken from a cuttings of another variety. In this case, a stock is called a plant to which a scion is grafted - a stalk obtained from another fruit crop.

It is best to do budding in the spring, when the plants acquire young leaves, and it is also allowed to do this in mid-July or August. It is important to follow the rules that suggest the use of a growing bud formed last season in spring, and for summer budding, the choice of a dormant bud formed over the past months is optimal.

So, a young shoot should be expected only next year, when the graft begins to grow intensively. Before carrying out the procedure, make sure that the bark is easily separated from the wood on the apple rootstock. You can instill a culture in the following ways:

budding with wood;
grafting without wood.

The first method is the fastest and simplest, as it involves the separation of the bark exclusively from the rootstock area. Experienced gardeners believe that eyes on fruit crops take root best if the procedure was carried out 2 weeks before a possible cold snap. Stable warm and dry weather increases the chances of success, and budding is recommended in the early morning or evening.

For creating best conditions the stock should be well watered 2 weeks before the upcoming budding. Usually it is done on the northern side of the tree, marking in advance a suitable area 5 cm above the root collar. But sometimes, due to the threat of flooding due to heavy rainfall, it is allowed to plant a fruit crop at a height of 10 cm from the ground level.

Summer grafting of apples and pears with an eye (video)

How to budding with and without wood

In order to plant a crop, cut off a thin section of wood from the scion, which thickens in the bud area. And also the vascular-fibrous bundle located near the eye should be cut. As a result, the fragment should be no more than 2 cm long and equal in width. Such material should be taken by the leaf petiole, handling it as carefully as possible.

On the tree, which is the stock, a transverse incision is made from the bottom up in the place where the graft will be located, as well as a rounded longitudinal incision. Press the eyelet inserted into the incision firmly against the rootstock wood, and the bud, located near the bottom of the hole in the bark, promotes rapid accretion. When the fragment is tightly fixed, the vaccination site is checked again, after which it must be tied with a special tape.

Summer budding culture without wood is much more difficult and only experienced gardeners can cope with the task. Nevertheless, this method multiplies the chances of tissue fusion of different cultures. In this case, the cut is made 1 cm above the kidney and ends at a height of 7 mm below it. You can remove a fragment of the cortex with a kidney using pressure from the side. A prerequisite is the preservation of the vascular fibrous bundle. Without it, the kidney is not suitable for vaccination.

The technique for making the incisions and inserting the peephole is the same as described above for budding with wood.

How to determine if the peephole has taken root or not? To monitor the vaccination after 2 weeks, loosen the tie, the following signs indicate a successful budding process:

dried leaf stalk;
a noticeable increase in the size of the kidney;
no damage.

The key to success is good cultural compatibility. Apple and pear belong to the Rosaceae family, so you can see ripening fruits of different types on the same tree. As practice shows, the eye of a pear on an apple tree takes root best of all, but the opposite combination is also allowed.

What varieties to choose to create a miracle tree

Apple stock grows well with pear cuttings such as "Cathedral" and "Lada". To carry out budding in this case, choose the following varieties of apple trees:

Antonovka;
Melba;
"Knight".

Ranetka seedlings - small-fruited apple varieties are also ideal as a rootstock. In the cold regions of the country, hybrids of the frost-resistant Siberian apple tree with small varieties of this culture are suitable for this purpose.

In order to avoid damage to the grafted branch in the future, it should be tied up. Many varieties of pears are compatible with the Kitayka apple tree, which is represented by a variety of shapes. Trees grafted on such a fruit crop give a good harvest and retain useful qualities for a long time.

You can get a high-quality apple stock yourself by growing a tree from a seed. Nevertheless, many gardeners prefer to purchase a ready-made seedling from a nursery or a special farm.

As a rule, planting the stock in open ground falls in early spring, shortly before the process of swelling of the kidneys. It is allowed to do this in the fall before the onset of frost. How to distinguish a quality tree that is suitable for budding? The trunk of a healthy seedling is even, and the root system is healthy and not overdried. It is best to choose specimens that have a special label with a characteristic of the variety.

Vaccination by cuttings (video)

How to properly care for a grafted tree

It is important to know that the fruit crop should be planted in an area that is not exposed to direct sunlight. If the cutting is grafted onto an already growing tree, then it should be shaded with large branches located above, since excessive heating leads to the death of tissues.

The level of humidity is of no small importance; the transition between intergrown tissues should in no case be dry. Treat the joint with wax or garden varnish, then tie it with a special tape.

A grafted tree is demanding on the presence of nutrients in the soil. Apple and pear need fertilizers such as chicken manure, wood ash, potassium. So, a solution of poultry manure in the amount of 5 liters is introduced into the ground, as well as potassium sulfate, which is added during the spring care of the crop. The roots of apple and pear have a similar structure, therefore they need abundant irrigation with warm water. The watering rate of a young tree is from 3 to 5 liters, depending on its age, this should be done at least 2 times a week.

The fruit tree on which apples and pears grow is susceptible to point disease, it manifests itself in the form of brown strokes on the tissues of the rootstock. The foliage, which curls up and dries up, also suffers. A disease such as cytosporosis affects the bark of apple and pear trees, poor soil and non-compliance with the irrigation regime contribute to the development of infection.

Protecting seedlings from infections and pests includes the following measures:

spring treatment of trees with urea solution;
timely treatment of diseased trees;
compliance with the rules of caring for fruit crops.

A grafted fruit tree needs constant care. Pruning is a necessary procedure that produces strong shoots. In the summer, shorten the lateral shoots that have formed this season, they should be cut off by 10 cm, but you do not need to touch the main shoot.

For the next few years, the grafted branch will bear fruit annually and delight you with fruits, even if they grow the size of a paradise apple - this is already a success. The growth of the scion is slowed down by timely pruning, its length should not be too long.

Types of vaccinations for fruit trees (video)

Plant on suburban area culture with different fruits- not an easy task, even for experienced gardeners. Perhaps this idea will be realized after many attempts, and you will be able to collect apples and pears from the same tree.

Pear is a representative of the genus of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. Belongs to the class dicotyledons, flowering department, rosaceous order, pink family, pear genus ( Pyrus).

In the old Russian chronicles of the 12th century, the pear is referred to as "hrusha", presumably because of the characteristic crunch when biting the fruit, and is consonant with some Slavic names: hruska (Czech), krusha (Bulgarian).

The wood of the pear is hard, dense, with a fine texture and barely noticeable annual rings. Due to the presence of special "stone cells", dried raw materials are quite easy to process. Treated with a black stain, pear woods perfectly imitate expensive ebony, and under the influence of hot air turns red. With natural aging, pear wood acquires a distinctive amber color.

The average lifespan of a pear is 150-200 years, although some types of pear trees live up to 300 years.

Where does the pear grow?

In the wild, the pear is widespread in Europe and the countries of Central Asia, it is found in the form of deciduous thickets, but such a wild pear gives small and completely tasteless fruits. As a result of successful breeding activities, the pear tree is also grown in a cultivated form on household plots... Today, the distribution area of this tree is spread from the Urals and regions of Western Siberia to the Crimea, Belarus, Ukraine, the foothills of the Caucasus, Japan, China, southern and northern regions of the European continent.

Pear is a tree that grows on fertile loose soils and gives abundant yields of fragrant fruits. Moreover, the optimal soil for planting pears should be neutral or with minimal acidity. On poor, acidic and excessively moist soils, the pear takes root very hard and often refuses to bear fruit.

Planting pears. How to plant a pear?

An important step is right choice places for planting pears and careful preparation landing pit... For planting, one- or two-year-old pear seedlings with a developed root system and no visible damage to the aboveground part are used. Spring planting of a pear is permissible, although experts recommend planting a pear in the fall - in mid or late September, when the saplings of the seedlings have fallen out of leaves and sap flow has stopped.

The best soil for planting pears is clay and loamy, with deep groundwater. Acidic soils are preliminarily limed. A place for planting a pear seedling is chosen sunny and protected from the winds.

A landing pit 1 m wide and 80 cm deep is dug in advance. At a distance of 30 cm from the center, a stake is driven in, which is necessary for the correct growth of the tree.

8-10 kg of rotted manure or compost, 50 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt are introduced into the pit and mixed with a small amount of earth.

A pear seedling is set in a hole and they begin to add earth, periodically shaking the tree itself. At correct fit the root collar will rise 6-8 cm above ground level. Then the soil is trampled down tightly and spilled with several buckets of water. The trunk of a pear seedling is tied to a peg and, at the end, the trunk circle is mulched with humus or manure so that the mulch does not touch the tree trunk.

Pear care

Young pear trees need to be watered regularly at the rate of 1 bucket of water per week; in drought, watering is increased.

Pear feeding

In the first 4 years, the pear is fed with nitrogen fertilizers, several times a season, and once a season with any potash fertilization. During the spring and autumn loosening of the trunk circle, the same complex of fertilizers is applied that was used for planting. Starting from 5 years old, fertilizers are embedded in specially dug grooves along the periphery of the crown.

Pruning and shaping the crown of a pear

Crown formation consists in spring and autumn pruning of branches. Closely and parallel growing pear branches are removed, especially long branches are shortened, achieving the same length of the crown tier. Places of cuts are covered with crushed coal or garden pitch.

Pear care in autumn

Autumn care for a pear tree includes a number of necessary activities:

1. sanitary pruning of branches;
2. preventive treatment against diseases and pests;
3. feeding pears with phosphorus fertilizer;
4. whitewashing the trunk of a pear with lime;
5. digging and deep watering of near-trunk circles;
6. covering the trunk circle with straw or sawdust with a layer of up to 25-30 cm.

Pear care in spring

Spring care for a pear begins with the removal of shelters and repeats the autumn one, only phosphorus fertilizers are replaced with nitrogen ones.

Depending on the variety, the pear begins to bear fruit in the 4-7 year of the tree's life. The blossoming of pears occurs in April - May, the harvest of pears falls, depending on the region, in August - September.

Reproduction of pear

The pear is propagated by the seed method, cuttings, layering and grafting. Seed propagation is more used by breeders to develop new varieties. Among the people the most in a simple way reproduction is considered by layering, and the layering begins to bear fruit much earlier than the seedlings.

Pests, diseases and pear treatment

Despite the resistance of modern pear varieties to a number of dangerous diseases, bad weather conditions and non-observance of preventive measures can lead to tree diseases:

scab

on the pear it affects young branches, leaves, ovaries of pears with characteristic dark spots, with a diameter of 2-4 cm. Fruits become smaller and become tough.

stem rot

occurs from frost or sunburn, with poor care or lack of nutrients. The bark of the pear tree turns dark red and the tree dries up.

powdery mildew

a fungal disease of the pear, characterized by a whitish bloom covering the branches, leaves and flowers, which leads to the dropping of the ovaries.

pear honeydew

feeds on the cell sap of trees, causing the buds, leaves or buds of the pear to fall off.

pear moth

lays eggs on pear fruits, and the caterpillars that appear devour the pulp.

Timely processing of pears with insecticidal preparations, colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux liquid, as well as sanitary pruning and burning of affected pear shoots and foliage help prevent the spread of the disease and, in most cases, save the plant.

Types of pears, names, descriptions and photos

The modern classification includes 33 types of pears, divided into 2 botanical sections - Pashia and Pyrus. Several varieties are presented below:

common pear or wild(Pyrus communis, Pyrus domestica )

large shrub or tree up to 20 meters high. This view pears gave rise to most cultivars grown in moderate climatic zone... In nature, the wild pear is distributed from Eastern Europe to Western Asia. It is considered a good honey plant and a valuable dietary product. Varieties of common pear:

- Pyrus communis L. subsp. Communis
- Pyrus communis L. subsp. Caucasica- Caucasian pear
- Pyrus communis L. subsp. Pyraster- Forest pear

forest pear(Pyrus communis subsp. pyraster)

subspecies of common pear. It grows in the form of low shrubs (up to 4 meters) and trees growing up to 20 meters. The forest pear gave birth to hundreds of cultivars, and thanks to its durable wood, it is successfully used in carpentry and turning. This tree grows in the forests and forest-steppes of Central and Eastern Europe.

pear Boissier(Pyrus boissieriana)

Drought-resistant, rare species of pear, grows to a limited extent in Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan, where it is listed in the Red Book. It is also found in the north of Iran. Used as a rootstock and hybridization.

pear-shaped pear(Pyrus pyrifolia)

It is a drought-resistant species that is not demanding on soils, has a trunk height of up to 20 m, varietal plants grow up to 6 m. The pear-shaped pear grows in the countries of Central Asia and the Far East of Russia. It is widely used in agriculture, has a high decorative purpose, and in China it is revered as a sacred tree.

Ussuri pear(Pyrus ussuriensis)

grows up to 15 meters in height and is characterized by increased frost resistance, due to which it is used in breeding as a source material. The Ussuri pear is widespread in the Far Eastern region of Russia, China and Korea.

loaf pear(Pyrus elaeagrifolia)

differs in a small height up to 10 m and high resistance to frost (up to -25 degrees). Small pears are used in cooking, and trees are used as a rootstock and for gardening. In the wild, the loaf pear is found in the Crimea and the Caucasus.

willow pear(Pyrus salicifolia)

This type of pear reaches a height of 8-10 m. The crown of the willow-leaved pear is lush, with openwork foliage and early mass flowering. The fruits are small and inedible, therefore, the pear is mainly used as a rootstock for new varieties and as an ornamental plant.

Pear varieties - names, descriptions and photos. Pear classification

By ripening time:

Summer (early) varieties of pears,
Autumn (medium) varieties of pears,
Winter (late) varieties of pears.

By fetal size:

Large (large-fruited) pear varieties,
Medium varieties of pears,
Small (small-fruited) pear varieties.

By way of application:

Decorative pear,
Fruit pear.

By winter hardiness:

Winter-hardy (frost-resistant) varieties of pears,
Not winter-hardy varieties of pears.

Height:

Tall varieties of pears,
Medium-sized varieties of pears,
Low-growing varieties of pears,
Dwarf pear varieties.

By crown type:

Pear varieties with a pyramidal crown,
Pear varieties with a rounded crown,
Columnar varieties of pears.

Taste:

Sweet pears
Sweet and sour pears
Pears with a tart, bitter taste.

By pollination method:

Self-fertilized (self-fertile) pear varieties;
Non-self-pollinated pear varieties.

Now let's look at each classification separately with examples of varieties.

Early (summer), middle (autumn), late (winter) pear varieties, description and photos

Depending on the timing of ripening, pears are divided into early (summer), medium (autumn) and late (winter) varieties.

Early varietiespears ripen at the end of July - August; in cold regions, the harvest takes place at the beginning of September. The summer pear must be harvested on time. Overripening and shedding of fruits should not be allowed. Depending on the variety, summer pears are kept cool for 7 to 17 days. Despite the limited shelf life, the early fruits are juicy, taste great and have a high commercial value.

The following early (summer) pear varieties are considered the most popular among gardeners:

Chizhovskaya;
"August Dew";
"Julia";
"Space";
"Krasulia";
"Cathedral";
"Severyanka";
"Victoria".

Severyanka variety

Autumn (medium) varietiespears can be harvested in September - early October, the fruits are distinguished by a short removable period, which is reduced in an especially hot summer season. Autumn varieties of pears are stored in a cool place for 45 to 70 days, when stored, their taste is significantly improved. Most of the autumn varieties have increased frost resistance.

The best medium (autumn) pear varieties:

"Autumn Dream";
"Fun";
"Yakovlev's Favorite";
"Moskvichka";
"Beauty Chernenko";
"The conference";
"Nerussa";
"Simply Maria".

Variety Conference

Winter (late) varietiespears come into removable maturity in the middle of autumn, and then ripen during storage, therefore they are grown mainly in regions with a mild climate. At a temperature of + 3-5 degrees, the late winter pear, depending on the variety, is stored until January - April next year.

The most famous winter pear varieties:

"Pervomaiskaya";
"November";
"Nika";
Kure (Winter Williams);
"Hera";
"Belarusian late";
"Kondratyevka";
"Yakovlevskaya".

Variety Williams winter

Small, medium and large pear varieties, description and photos

Depending on the size and weight of fruits, large-fruited, medium and small-fruited pear varieties are distinguished.

Large varieties of pears - fruits weighing from 200 to 500 g and above. A pear with large fruits is characterized by stable fruiting and motivates the owners to set personal records for growing giant fruits without the use of any chemistry.

The best large pear varieties:

"Bere Dil" (250-500 g);
"Marianna" (200-350 g);
Marshal Zhukov (320-560 g);
"Autumn large" (200-250 g);
"Space" (300-550 g);
"Vidnaya" (350-540 g);
"Favorite Klapp" (250-450 g);
"Bere Ardanpon" (200 - 250 g).

Variety Favorite Clappa

Average (medium-sized) pear varieties- fruits weighing from 80 to 200 g. The most numerous varietal group is distinguished by increased fertility, which is why most trees are often overloaded with harvest.

Popular medium pear varieties:

"Ilyinka" (up to 150 g);
"Melting" (up to 200 g);
"Dicolor" (up to 150 g);
"Talgar beauty" (up to 200 g);
"Muratovskaya" (up to 150 g);
Chizhovskaya (up to 120 g);
Lada (up to 120 g);
"Annushka" (up to 140 g).

Variety Chizhovskaya

Small (small-fruited) pear varieties have a fruit weight of 30-80 grams and are most often intended for the processing and preparation of compotes, preserves, marmalades and other desserts.

The best small pear varieties:

"Ultra early";
"Olga";
"Myth";
Veselinka;
"The First Swallow";
"Thumbelina";
"Moscow";
"Severyanka".

Severyanka variety

According to the method of application, pears are divided into fruit and ornamental.

Fruit pear (technical, table, universal) - varieties, description and photos

Fruit varieties of pears are divided into technical, table (dessert) and universal.

Technicalpear varieties are mostly intended for processing. The fruits cannot boast of high commercial qualities, but they have an excellent taste and aroma, and therefore are actively used in cooking and for conservation.

Technical pear varieties:

Oryol Summer;
"Melitopol juicy";
"Granddaughter";
"Dangling";
"Allegro".

Allegro variety

Canteens (dessert) pears consumed mainly fresh. The varieties are distinguished by their excellent presentation, good keeping quality and transportability, and, of course, excellent taste.

The most famous varieties of dessert pear:

"Bronze";
"Dawn";
"Banquet";
"Marble";
"Perun";
Quiet Don.

Marble grade

Universal pear varieties are used both for processing and for fresh consumption.

The best universal pear varieties:

Zoya;
Otradnenskaya;
"Bere Winter Michurina";
"Black Sea Amber";
"Podkumok";
"Academic".

Variety Otradnenskaya

Decorative pear: varieties, description and photos

This decorative pear comes from China and is a rare guest in the gardens of Russia. Ornamental trees are very attractive, so they are ideal for landscaping private gardens and city parks. The fruits of most varieties of decorative pears are small and inedible, but this deficiency is easily compensated for by the unusually beautiful foliage that forms graceful crowns, as well as high winter hardiness.

The best varieties of decorative pear:

Caliera Chauntecleer;
Beach Hill;
"Loach";
Liana.

Variety Beach Hill

Winter-hardy pear varieties, description and photo

According to the degree of winter hardiness, there are frost-resistant pear varieties suitable for cultivation in risky agriculture, and non-winter-hardy varieties cultivated in areas with a warm climate.

Winter hardy (frost hardy) pear varieties bred mainly in the Far East from the Ussuri pear, the most winter-hardy in the world. Most of the varieties were bred in the last century, they are reliable, time-tested and do not freeze out at temperatures of -30-35 degrees.

The best winter-hardy pear varieties:

"Elegant Efimova";
"Theme";
"Lel";
Krasnopakharskaya;
Tyutchevskaya;
"Dulya Novgorodskaya";
"Thin line";
"Uralochka".

Uralochka variety

Not winter hardypear varieties can be grown in northern regions at their own peril and risk, but in harsh winters most varieties freeze out, although some agronomic techniques can increase the frost resistance of trees.

Pear varieties not resistant to frost:

"Enchantress";
Yeseninskaya;
"January";
"Kieffer" ("Kieffer Seedling");
"Bere Russian";
"Kupava";
"Morning freshness";
"Black Sea Amber".

Variety Yeseninskaya

Tall, medium-sized, undersized, dwarf pear - varieties, description and photo

By the height of the trunk, tall, medium-sized, undersized and dwarf pear varieties are distinguished.

Tall pear varieties can grow over 6 meters in height, which greatly complicates their care and harvesting. That's why tall varieties first of all, they need the correct and timely formation of the crown.

The best tall varieties of pears:

"Annushka";
Saint Germain;
"Malyaevskaya late";
"Gimrinskaya";
"Apple-shaped";
"Shuranovka No. 3";
Oryol Beauty;
Larinskaya.

Apple variety

Medium-sized pear varieties grow up to 5 - 5.5 meters and make up the largest group:

"Original";
"Dagestan Summer";
"Central Russian";
Shihan;
Oktyabrskaya;
Goryachevodskaya;
"Petrovskaya";
"Moscow Bergamot".

Dagestan summer variety

Undersized (undersized)pear varieties do not exceed 4.5 m in height:

"Morning freshness";
Williams (Summer Duchess, Bon Chretien Williams, Bartlett, Summer Williams);
"Michurinskaya Beauty";
Otradnenskaya;
Admiral Gervais;
"Alyonushka";
"Mashuk";
"Triumph of Pakgum".

Variety Williams summer

Dwarf pear, having a height of 2.5 - 3 m, is very popular among owners of small summer cottages... In addition to their compact size, dwarfs begin to bear fruit in the 3rd year of planting, which in relation to pears can be considered exceptional early maturity. Dwarf pears grafted on chokeberry or irgu, they are characterized by increased winter hardiness, they often freeze on quince. Regardless of the rootstock, all dwarf pears produce excellent quality fruits that are in no way inferior to their tall counterparts.

The best varieties of dwarf pear:

"Bere Ardanpon";
"Bere Gardi";
Veles;
"Grand Champion" ("Big Champion");
"Patriotic";
"Parisian";
"Rossoshanskaya beautiful";
Carmen.

Variety Parisian

Round, pyramidal, columnar pear - description, varieties and photos

Each pear variety forms its own type of crown, pyramidal or round, columnar pears belong to a separate group. Pears grow rapidly and in many species the crown shape changes as the tree develops. The final formation of the crown type occurs at the age of 10.

Pear with a pyramidal crown- slim and beautiful tree that require regular pruning and careful shaping.

Varieties of pyramidal pears:

Alexandrin Douliar;
"Yurievskaya";
"Commemorative";
"Devo";
"Recordist";
"Prominent" ("Bumpy");
"Kabardinka";
"Bashkir Summer".

Variety Yurievskaya

Pears with a rounded crown it is advisable to plant in spacious gardens, because the tree will need a lot of light for full development. Naturally formed rounded crown pear tree needs annual correction pruning.

Pear varieties with a rounded crown:

"Bergamot of Dagestan";
Early Sergeeva;
"Victoria";
"Kupava";
"Gimrinskaya";
"Autumn Susova";
Ilyinka;
"Svarog".

Variety Victoria

Columnar pear for many gardeners it is still a novelty, but in a short time she managed to find a lot of admirers, gaining popularity and an honorable place in the gardens of Russia. Column-shaped pears belong to the category of dwarfs, the height of an adult tree does not exceed 2.5 m. Due to the weak growth of the branches, the tree has an unusual shape resembling a column, and the fruits are located near the trunk itself. Original trees do not take up much space, enter into fruiting for 2-3 years of planting, have increased frost resistance and an exceptional taste of the fruit. The only drawback of a columnar pear can be considered a short life, after 10-12 years the pear orchard will have to be renewed.

The best varieties of columnar pear:

"Knight - Vert";
"Sapphire";
"Honey";
"Decor";
"Carmen";
"Tenderness";
"Pavlovskaya";
Sunremy.

Sapphire variety

Sweet, sour-sweet, tart-bitter pears - varieties, description and photos

The taste of the pear tree fruit primarily depends on the source material, which became the ancestor of the variety. Also, the taste of the fruit can be influenced by the weather, harvest time and storage conditions. The varietal variety of pears implies 3 main fruit flavors: sweet, sweet and sour and tart bitter.

Sweetpears are rightfully considered the most popular and versatile. Juicy sweet fruits have a great taste and are ideal for any kind of preparation. In addition, sweet pears are absorbed faster by the body and do not cause indigestion. The best varieties of sweet pears:

"Autumn sweet";
"Honey";
"Dessert";
Summer Duchess;
Yeseninskaya;
"Botanicheskaya";
"Children's";
"January".

Variety Yeseninskaya

Sweet and sourpears make up the most numerous varietal group and are valued for their exceptional, tonic and refreshing taste, as well as have a beneficial effect on liver function and increase appetite. Varieties of sweet and sour pears:

"Firefly";
Betaulskaya;
"Karataevskaya";
"Skorospelka from Michurinsk";
Talitsa (Skorospelka Sverdlovskaya);
"Volzhskaya autumn";
"Original";
"Bere Napoleon" ("Napoleon", "Bonaparte").

Skorospelka variety from Michurinsk

Bitter tart, astringent taste of pear due to the increased content of tannins in the peel of the fruit. Pear varieties with a tart taste:

"Bere Moskovskaya";
"Pervomaiskaya";
"Astrakhan early";
"Whiteleaf";
"Krasnoyarsk large";
"Siberian".

Bere Moscow variety

Self-fertilized (self-fertile) pears - varieties, description and photos

The vast majority of pear varieties are self-fertile, cross-pollinated and require a pollinator, better than a certain variety. Therefore, having planted one pear, you can not wait for the harvest at all. Self-fertility of pears is a rare and very valuable quality, especially in cold seasons, when, due to bad weather, there are few pollinating insects in the gardens. The varieties prone to self-pollination give a stable pear harvest in all weather conditions.

Self-fertile (self-pollinated) pear varieties:

"In memory of Yakovlev";
Chizhovskaya;
"Banquet";
"Bere Winter Michurina";
"Jubilee Korneeva".

Variety in Memory of Yakovlev

The following pear varieties show partial self-fertility:

"Victoria";
"Severyanka red-cheeked";
"Beautiful Rossoshanskaya".

Severyanka red-cheeked variety

The benefits of pears for the body. Vitamins and minerals in pear

Pear contains vitamins A, E, C, K, group B in an amount exceeding many other fruits, as well as a large number of minerals: potassium, calcium, phosphorus, sodium, folic acid. In folk and official medicine, the pear is considered a recognized dietary product and a natural source of energy. Unique mineral composition and beneficial features pears help fight many diseases:

potassium normalizes heart function, lowers cholesterol levels, improves metabolic processes;
calcium, phosphorus and magnesium strengthen the structure of bone tissue;
sodium maintains water-salt balance and pancreas function;
folic acid improves the hematopoietic system;
anti-inflammatory antibiotic arbutin reduces the risk of prostatitis;
tannins stop diarrhea.

Pear fruits contain fructose and a small amount of calories (42-58 kcal / 100 g), therefore they are invaluable in quality diet food and are recommended for diabetes mellitus.

Pear: harm and contraindications

For people of advanced age and old age who have a history of any disorders of the nervous system or gastrointestinal diseases (especially with stomach ulcers), sour or too tart varieties of pears are absolutely contraindicated.
Pear pulp contains a lot of tough fiber, which irritates a weakened, diseased intestine and takes a long time to digest.
Dried pear fruits are a rather tasty, but very high-calorie product, so those who want to lose weight should not include them in their menu.

Until the time when tobacco appeared in European countries, they used dried and crushed pear leaves in a mortar for smoking.
In the 17th century, the pear fruit was called the "butter fruit" because its soft texture resembled such a product.
In ancient Greece, aromatic pear fruits were used as a remedy for nausea.
The lines of professional architects are still made from pear wood, because this tree does not deform at all.
Pear fruits are often recommended as complementary foods for babies who are weaned by mothers: this fact is associated with a low allergenicity and minimal acidity of the fruit.

In order for juicy ripe apples and pears to delight the gardener all year round, he should familiarize himself with the varieties of these fruit trees and the peculiarities of caring for them. It is important to understand that properly pruning, planting, watering, feeding and spraying from pests are effective ways to maintain the beauty and health of the garden.

What is a garden without an apple tree? This fruit crop can be found in any corner of Russia. Gardeners grow pears less often: it is more thermophilic and does not always succeed in the northern regions. Despite the undoubted differences, these cultures still have a lot in common. The main thing is that they make friends in your garden and bear fruit perfectly!

Apple tree and pear in the garden

Apple and pear are the brightest representatives of pome fruit trees. Care for them is almost the same: watering, feeding, pest and disease control, complete and timely harvesting.

On a traditional plot of six acres, it is quite possible to place several apple and pear trees of various varieties. When choosing, follow not only your tastes and preferences, but also take into account the degree of winter hardiness of these crops, their resistance to the fungal disease to which they are susceptible - scab. Pay attention to the time of the appearance of the first harvests, the regularity of fruiting, the size of the tree.

We will pay special attention to the correct choice of apple and pear varieties.

The most important question when choosing a variety of apple or pear is the ripening period.

Summer varieties are especially necessary for a family with children spending the summer in the country. It is not at all necessary to grow a whole tree of each variety! It is better to replant half of the apple tree of one summer variety with other summer varieties that differ in terms of ripening. Or half a pear of a summer variety - in autumn.

As for apple trees, it is more rational to grow more autumn varieties in the family garden. Then the family will be provided with their own apples until late autumn - right from the tree!

Early ripe varieties of apple and pear

They are so long-awaited and delicious, but unfortunately, they are short-lived! And practically nontransportable. Therefore, I recommend removing summer apples and pears from the tree a little earlier than they are finally ripe.

Grow apples at different ripening times.

The apple season in the garden is opened by Summer striped, Red early, Arkad yellow, Kitaika golden early, Cypress, Julskoe Petrova, Grushovka early, Julskoe Chernenko.

Grushovka Moscow, Mantet, Papirovka, Korobovka, Solntsedar, Ottawa ripen about a week later.

It successfully fills the "empty" period from the end of summer to the appearance of autumn varieties of Dessertnoe Budagovsky, which ripens 10-12 days later than Melba.

And the first harvest of sweet and fragrant pears is given to us by Skorospelka from Michurinsk, which ripens at the end of July. By mid-August, other annuals Avgustovskaya Dew, Kosmicheskaya, Lada, Severyanka, Chizhovskaya also ripen.

Long-term storage varieties of apple and pear

Apples and pears of these varieties are distinguished not only by their high taste, but also by long keeping quality.

Apples from the good old Antonovka are perfectly stored until the New Year. And modern apple varieties until spring! Among them are Lobo, Mekanis, Orlik, Zvezdochka, Beforest, Pamyat Michurin, Welsey, Golden Kalvil, Student, Polinka, Noris, Berkutovskoe, Spartan, Bogatyr, Kulikovskoe, Mekintosh, Imrus, Stroevskoe, Bolotovskoe, Celandine.

Records for keeping quality: Moscow later, Moscow winter, Rossiyanka,
Northern Synap, Sinap Orlovsky, Belarusian Synap, Verbnoe, Winter Beauty, Freshness. Their fruits last almost until next summer!

And among the pears there are "long-livers". All of them are of autumn and winter varieties. I recommend the following: Muscovite, In memory of Yakovlev, Lyubimitsa Yakovlev, Smart Efimova, Memory of Zhegalov. You will keep such pears until the middle of winter.

Sweet varieties of apple trees

Having such apples in the garden is especially important for people who do not like ordinary, sweet and sour apples or they are contraindicated for them.

Among the sweet varieties, Bessemyanka Michurinskaya, Vityaz, Candy, Medok, Melba, Pepin saffron, Rosovoe excellent, Renet Chernenko stand out.

Intensive type apple varieties

These varieties are distinguished by early onset of fruiting, abundant and regular yields. For example, while most varieties begin to bear fruit in the 5-7th year, intensive-type varieties begin to bear fruit already in the first 3 years after planting. Choose Folk, Winner, Student, Melba, Lobo, Welsey, Dessertnoe Isaeva, Mekanis, Young Naturalist, Orlik, Zhigulevskoe, Northern Sinap, Antey, Darunak, Imant, Memory of Kovalenko, Pospeh.

The so-called spur varieties are famous for their superintense. Low-growing trees with shortened internodes are completely covered with “fruiting points” - ringlets. Most of them come from American varieties and are grown mainly in our south: Delicious, Golden Delicious, Mekintosh.

Apple varieties with annual fruiting

Do you want to have an apple harvest every year, and not every 2 years, as usual? Then choose varieties such as Narodnoe, Autumn Joy, Zhigulevskoe, Northern Sinap, Rossiyanka, Saffron Pepin, Antey. Trees of these varieties are distinguished by moderate flowering, less tall, relatively compact. This makes it possible to plant them more densely, increases the yield per unit area and makes it easier to care for them. The varieties Narodnoe, Brusnichnoe, Young Naturalist, Zhigulevskoe, Studencheskoe differ in their relatively small tree size.

Scab-resistant apple and pear varieties

Scab is a common fungal disease of fruit trees. Especially often it affects apple and pear trees in rainy springs. The only salvation from her is spraying the trees with chemicals.

Plant varieties that are more scab resistant. From apple trees I will recommend Bessemyanka Michurinskaya, Autumn joy, Cinnamon new, Renet Chernenko, Winner, Dessertnoe Isaeva, Welsey, Young naturalist.
Of the pear varieties, the most resistant to scab are Kosmicheskaya, Lada, Severyanka, Severyanka red-cheeked, Skorospelka from Michurinsk, Chizhovskaya.

How to care?

The main thing in caring for apple and pear trees is proper watering and fertilization. I suggest you effective method watering them - through pipes. We retreat from the trunk a distance equal to the radius of the projection of the crown on the ground. With a brace we make a hole in the ground, dig in a piece of plumbing pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 1 m. Its upper edge should rise slightly above the ground. Through this pipe we will water the tree and apply liquid fertilizers to the soil. After each watering, we close it with a lid so that dirt and fallen leaves do not get inside. There should be at least four such pipes around each tree. With such a watering and feeding system, the nutrient solution immediately flows directly to the roots of the tree!

And a few more words about watering. Apple trees and pears require at least 4 abundant watering over the summer. How much water to pour? To answer this question, estimate by eye the dimensions of the tree trunk circle in square meters and multiply the resulting number by 3. This is how many buckets of water a tree needs!

What if the apple tree does not bear fruit?

The apple tree, with the exception of intensive varieties, usually begins to bear fruit in the 5-7th year after planting. But sometimes the beginning of fruiting is delayed. Why? There may be several reasons. First, we check if we did not deepen the neck of the tree too much during planting. If so, the apple tree will have to be lifted. The second possible reason is the vertical growth of the branches. Fruit shoots of the apple tree are formed only on horizontal branches. Therefore, using weights or guy ropes, we give them a horizontal position.

There is another old "grandfather's" way to make an apple tree bear fruit. We drive a few rusty nails into the trunk of the apple tree or just bury various metal objects in the trunk circle.

In this way, we make up for the missing supply of iron for fruiting. Try it! Don't trust grandfather's advice? Then do not forget to spray the apple tree 2-3 times a season with a 0.1% solution of ferrous sulfate (1 teaspoon of vitriol per 10 liters of water).

How to plant correctly?

Apple trees and pears can be planted in autumn and spring. We plant immediately on a permanent place - these fruit crops do not like transplants. And it is better to have several varieties at once - for pollination.
We dig deep planting holes (100-120 cm), since the root system of these fruit trees has a diameter of up to 80 cm and is located at a great depth. We put dung or vegetable humus in the pit (2-3 buckets), 1 glass of superphosphate, 3 tablespoons of potassium sulfate, 1 kg organic fertilizer"Berry giant" or "Berry", 2 buckets of coarse sand. We mix everything with the soil previously removed from the pit. Then we dilute 2 cups of dolomite flour or fluff lime in 10 liters of water and pour it into the pit. Pour 2 buckets of water there and leave the pit for 6-7 days.

Before planting, we drive a stake into the ground, which will support the young tree. Its length is not important: the main thing is that it ensures the stability of the seedling. We pour soil into the pit until a mound forms. We take a seedling, put it on a mound, evenly spread the roots and cover it with soil. In this case, the root collar should be 5-6 cm above the ground surface. When planting, shake the seedling several times so that there are no voids left between the roots and the soil. Then we slightly trample the ground, water and mulch with a small layer of dry humus to retain moisture.

How to prune?

For most apple and pear varieties, the crown forms naturally and does not require significant pruning. The only exceptions are vertically growing top shoots. We cut out some of them into a ring, and leave some as a continuation.

To scare off pests, plant skeletal or semi-skeletal branches under an apple or pear tree. At the same time, we give the tops a horizontal position - otherwise they will not bear fruit.

How to prepare fruit trees for winter?

For a safe overwintering of apple and pear trees, not only the degree of frost resistance inherent in the variety is important, but also the correct preparation of the trees. If the first does not depend on us, then the second is our direct responsibility!
Timely and complete harvesting of fruits, watering, fertilizing, pest and disease control ensure not only a high yield, but also a safe overwintering of trees.

To mitigate the impact winter cold you can use frost-resistant stamp formers or huddle tree trunks with forks of skeletal branches with snow. A good effect is the cultivation of apples and pears in a "creeping" form, which allows you to easily protect them from frost with any covering material.

Please note that young pears freeze more often. Therefore, in winter, we insulate them more thoroughly with snow and cover the boles.

To our fruit trees wintered well, in late autumn the garden needs to be disinfected. Usually, solutions of preparations containing copper and iron are used for this. But these elements accumulate in the bark and soil, and in high concentrations become toxic. In my garden, I use a soap-ash solution for disinfection. For 10 liters of water I take 5 glasses of wood ash. I put it in an old nylon stocking so that later I don't have to filter the solution. I fill it with water and insist for 2 days, periodically moving the stocking with ash. I add 40 g to the finished solution laundry soap- for better adhesion to the bark. With this solution, in dry, clear weather, I process all branches and trunks of fruit trees.

Do not forget about the autumn watering and feeding of apple and pear trees. The immunity of trees to low temperatures depends on this.

In autumn, when active growth ends and the need for nitrogen is reduced to a minimum, trees need phosphorus and potassium. It is these elements that are especially actively washed out of the soil in winter.

We free the plant's near-stem circle from mulch and apply fertilizer. Rake it into the soil. Then water and mulch with a thick layer of dry grass.
Our garden is now ready for winter!

A good garden will delight its owner for many years.

But to get such a treasure, you need to work hard first.

At any stage you can make a mistake, which will nullify all efforts.

The "wrong" seedling may simply not take root. Taking a seedling from an apple tree yourself without a clear understanding of how to choose an apple tree seedling is too risky.

In this article we will tell you, how to avoid these mistakes and successfully grow an apple tree that will delight for many years.

This first step should not be underestimated. It depends on the choice of a seedling in many respects whether you will be able to grow a healthy tree.

Take the question seriously:

Find out which apple varieties are suitable for your region... This is very important, because a young tree that is not adapted to such a climate can die long before it begins to bear fruit.
It is best to contact your local gardening organization or nursery with this question. You can find their addresses on the Internet.
Pay attention to customer reviews. Choose a company responsibly.
The most difficult stage of the choice is the practical one. It all depends on knowledge and care.

Selection of seedlings in the nursery.

First of all, everyone seedlings can be divided into three groups depending on the level of the stock, i.e. the stem and root system. When choosing this or that type, you need to take into account the features of the site.

There are such types:

IMPORTANT! If the seedlings have thorns, do not buy it. Most likely, a wild game is given out for a varietal apple tree.

Contact of the root system with groundwater is highly undesirable. Such an apple tree will be weak and painful, its harvest will be extremely poor. When buying a seedling, do not forget about the importance of this factor.

The ideal age for a seedling is 1-2 years. The youthfulness of a tree is a guarantee that it will take root better in a new place.

How determine visually the age of the seedling? An annual plant should not have developed branches; in a two-year-old plant, you can count 2–3 additional branches.

Examine the root system. It must not be damaged. Healthy roots slightly damp, but by no means rotten; they should be elastic and not brittle.

The state of the bark also has great importance... Gently pick off the bark with your fingernail - the stem should be green.

Better do not buy trees that have leaves... They will most likely not take root anymore.

How much do apple tree seedlings cost?

Seedlings with an open root system are cheaper than those sold in a container. The cost of an apple tree seedling depends on the variety and quality of the tree, as well as specifically on the selling company. On average, be guided by a price of about 300 rubles, although some nurseries may ask for 800 rubles.

Watch the training video on how to choose the right apple seedling:

How are apple seedlings grown?

Brave gardeners can try grow a seedling yourself... This is not so difficult, especially in stock there is at least elementary knowledge of the school course in biology. Let's consider the main methods.

Growing apple seedlings from seeds

Method one -. Even small children think about whether an apple tree will grow from an accidentally dropped seed.

In reality, things are not so simple. There have been cases when a beautiful tree with delicious fruits grew from a seed, but there is a possibility that the grown apple tree will not lose the "maternal" properties of the wild and all your efforts will be in vain.

But if difficulties and possible risks do not scare you, follow our advice:

Rinse mature brown seeds in running water to remove the substance that prevents it from germinating. The best thing place the seeds in water for 3 days.
Then place the seeds in the refrigerator (a process called stratification). To do this, you need to prepare dishes filled with slightly damp sand. The seeds should last about two months in the refrigerator. It is best to start stratification in early January..
In the refrigerator, the seeds should germinate. They need to be planted in specially prepared boxes (at the bottom of which drainage should be poured, on top - a nutrient mixture). The boxes should be placed on a well-lit windowsill.
Easy to recognize the wild even in the early stages: its leaves are bright green, and there are already short spines on the shoots. It's better not to waste your time on them. Or use the wild game as a rootstock, to which the desired variety has already been grafted.

From the cutting

Apple trees also propagate by cuttings.

How to make a seedling from an apple tree branch has been known for a long time. In order to grow a tree in this way, you need prepare the stock- choose a tree grown from seeds or (which is much better) a wild game.

Preparing the cuttings for the stock.

You need to graft the stalk of the tree you need to the roots of such a tree. It is very important to correctly combine the stock and the cutting.

For a wild bonsai, a columnar apple stalk is better suited, and an apple tree grown from a seed will well accept a stalk of an ordinary tall tree.

The shank must be not older than one year... We will describe in detail how to make a seedling from an apple tree below.

How to grow apple seedlings from a branch

Another way is dig a branch into the ground.

In the fall, the tree is planted with a slope so that the young shoots touch the ground. In the spring, the twigs are attached to the bud with staples. During the summer, they need to be hilled, and in the fall, ready-made seedlings are obtained.

Air layering or how to get seedlings from an old apple tree

Provide ground for a new root system to form.

It is more difficult to plant a seedling from a branch, so it is often more advisable to use the air-lay method.

So that the twig starts to take root, you need to surround it with moist soil. To begin with, choose a branch that will become a seedling - healthy, without branches, as thick as a regular pencil.

When the snow melts, this branch needs put on a polyethylene sleeve... Attach it, preferably with electrical tape. It will remain on the apple tree until steadily warm weather sets in. Then the sleeve is removed.

Need to find the border between the adult branch and the new growth- from this point, about 10 cm recede and an annular cut of about 1 cm is made, small cuts are also made to the left and right of it. All buds above the incisions must be removed.

Then a sleeve with a container is put on the branch. In the first three days, a container (you can use a cut plastic bottle) is placed root growth stimulating liquid, then specially prepared soil, which must be constantly wet.

You can try any of these methods yourself at home. It is advisable to consult additionally with competent specialists.

Watch a detailed video on how to get a seedling from an apple tree using the air layer method:

You can take a seedling from an apple tree yourself. You don't have to be an experienced gardener to do this.

If you want to get varietal apple tree, then you can use the parental shoot, which is sometimes enough just to dig in correctly.

The procedure is carried out in the spring... You can use young shoots no more than 1 year old.

They are placed in a hole about 10 cm deep. The branch is fixed to the peg. Thus, a shoot of 30-40 cm should remain above the ground... It is also necessary to rid the nearest site of weeds.

To be sure, root a few branches in this way. In a year, some of them will take root. In the fall, the seedlings will be ready for transplanting.

IMPORTANT! Remember that large-fruited apple trees take less root in this way than other varieties.

Apple tree sapling pruning

Do not forget that this is a rather complicated process that must be carried out strictly according to agrotechnical instructions.

You need to prune the seedling when it is at rest.

In warm climates, the ideal time will be the autumn-winter period, in temperate climates - the end of winter. Anyway, pruning should not be carried out at temperatures below -10 ° C.

The first pruning takes place in the first year after planting. Pruning at such an early age will ensure the establishment of future skeletal branches.

One-year seedling you need to remove side shoots that are up to 70 cm from the ground level. Above this point, only those branches are removed that form an acute angle with the trunk. If the angle that the branch forms with the trunk is close to 90 °, the branch is cut to the fifth bud.

Biennial seedling looks almost like an adult tree. How to prune such apple tree seedlings? In this case, the next goal is pursued - to leave from 3 to 5 strongest shoots, forming a wide angle with the trunk.

In the future, they will become the main branches of the tree. It is necessary to form and center conductor... It is best to do this from the most developed kidney, which is about 3 kidneys higher than the others. The lower branches should be longer than the upper ones. So wood.

Next 3-5 years it is better not to touch the apple tree, let it develop on its own.

How to distinguish a pear sapling from an apple tree?

It is sometimes difficult to distinguish different types of trees at such a young age even for experienced gardeners.

Before the leaves appear, this is almost impossible.- the seller in the market could experiment with vaccinations. Recall general rules that will allow you not to become a victim of deception and determine how to choose an apple tree:

In annual apple trees, the color of the shoots is dark red-brown, while in pears it is yellowish-green.
On the shoots of apple trees there is a slight pubescence, pears usually do not have such a feature.
In the shoots of pears, cranking is more pronounced.
The buds of apple trees are wide and large. They fit snugly to the shoot. Pear buds are pointed and small, do not adhere tightly to the shoot.
The buds of apple trees swell and blossom later than that of a pear.
The root system in apple trees is more branched, and in pears it is a stem system.

When buying a seedling, you don't need to know about the peculiarities of the leaves of pears and apple trees. If the seedling already has leaves, you should not buy it. It is unlikely to take root successfully, and your efforts will be in vain.

How to grow an apple tree from a seedling?

Any gardener first you need to choose the time of planting the apple tree.

It can be spring or autumn, depending on the specific circumstances and climatic conditions of your region.

In any case, tree care begins in the spring.

Prepare the soil before planting... This means that the soil must be well loosened, rid of weeds, fertilized (depending on the season) and dug up again.

The planting hole will be a house for the seedling, it will reliably feed it.

Choose a place responsibly. This should be a well-lit area, preferably sheltered from the wind.

IMPORTANT! The preparation of the planting pit should be started 2 months before direct planting.

The seedling is still too vulnerable. Our task is to protect it from the negative factor of weather conditions. The tree must be fixed to a peg. It will be possible to remove it 2 years after planting. This must be done with extreme caution so as not to hurt the root system.

In the first week after planting, regular watering is very important, which will help not only saturate the tree with nutrients, but also compact the soil. Gradually watering intervals needs to be shortened, but in hot weather it is impossible to spare water for a young tree.

The near-barrel section is required mulch... To do this, use compost, chicken droppings, vermicompost and rotted droppings, on top of this layer you need to put a small layer of straw.

Watch the video on how to mulch trees:

Necessarily you need to prune one-year and two-year-old apple trees to form its skeletal branches.

In the summer, all care consists in regular watering and protecting the tree from pests. To avoid using chemicals, try attract birds to the garden.

It's easy to do - arrange feeders on the branches of trees. This way the birds will know that a tasty treat awaits them in your garden.

If pests appear, you can collect them by hand from a young tree. In hot weather, do not water the tree during the day to avoid burns.

So that air flows to the root system, make punctures 30 cm deep at a distance of 60 cm from the trunk.

Preparing apple seedlings for winter.

A young apple tree needs to be spud to a height of 10–20 cm;
The area near the trunk must be mulched with humus or peat;
You can apply nitrogen or potash fertilizers. The lack of these substances will affect the quality of future fruits, therefore it is best to use complex fertilizers;
The trunk of the apple tree must be whitewashed with a solution of chalk;
To avoid breaking a weak young tree, it can be preliminarily.

Apple tree seedling dries up, how to save?

Before solving a problem, you need to understand it. reason, causing the apple tree to dry out. Then you can understand how to save a dried apple tree seedling.

Growing too much can hinder the development of the seedling. close trees or shrubs... In this case, you can transplant the tree to the required distance.

The problem can be caused by lying too close groundwater . Excess water simply displaces excess air from the soil, which is so necessary for a young root system. You can also solve the problem by replanting or regularly loosening the soil.

If groundwater interferes with more than one apple tree, you can dig drainage ditches to help get rid of excess water.

IMPORTANT! The key to the successful growth of an apple tree is air access to the root system, so loosen the soil regularly. Do not plant an apple tree in a sandy or clay bud.

Gardening is not only difficult, but also very interesting. To grow a good apple tree from a seedling, you need to show both intelligence and care.

Remember, the most crucial stage is the choice of a seedling.
It is better to buy them from professional breeders. On the spontaneous market, you can unknowingly purchase another tree (an apple tree can be easily confused with a pear before the leaves appear).
In the first year, do not overuse fertilizers.... The tree has enough watering and mulching.
Do not forget to rid the young apple tree of weeds. In the autumn, you can make.
A very important procedure is tree pruning. Remember to do this to form the skeleton of the apple tree.
Pests can negatively affect the development of an apple tree... However, try not to poison them with chemicals in the early years. Attract to this business of birds.

Recruit birds for natural pest control.

Treat your landing site responsibly... The apple tree can be killed by groundwater lying too close and trees and shrubs growing nearby.
Provide adequate air access to the root system. She really needs him.

A responsible approach to business will ensure your success.

In contact with

It is not difficult to deceive gardeners, because we firmly believe that there are varieties that do not need to be looked after. That you can not spray the trees and the worms, the apples are not touched. This "holy faith" is exploited with might and main by sellers of seedlings, trying to slip the "linden" into a gullible buyer. Where to go? After all, fashion is changeable, and even a gardener needs to keep up with the times.

First white, then red

The apple varieties are the easiest to guess. They have early varieties with a light color of the bark, and later ones with red. But there are also exceptions. For example, Simirenko has green bark. There are also early varieties with red bark. But here the color of the fruit affects the color. And if you are selling an early variety with green or yellow fruits, then its bark cannot be red in any way. Red? So, there is a mix-up.

The situation is more complicated with the peach. He has red bark in many varieties. Always take such seedlings. And it doesn't matter what sort the seller "came up with". The red color of the shoots indicates a higher frost resistance. And we just need it.

Roots, not tops

Attention is also paid to the roots. In dwarfs and columnar varieties, they should be thick - like a beard (fibrous root system). Ordinary apple trees should have 3-5 main roots and small ones less often.

But a pear on a pear stock has 1-3 squiggles down and that's it. These are the features of the breed - they immediately go deep into the depths - for water, where there are no competitors.

If you were sold an apple tree with rare roots, it means that you were deceived, dwarfs are not like that.

It is advisable to avoid plum saplings with red roots. This is a sign that they are grafted onto an apricot. It was believed earlier that such rootstocks often break off at the site of inoculation after 3-5 years. So take the risk and buy a plum with "plum roots".

I ought to shave ...

Even after planting, a grafted seedling can be distinguished from an unvaccinated one. Take a shovel and dig down to the first spine. And look for the thickening: it always remains from vaccination and is easy to find. He is not here? Then prepare the cuttings in the spring. It is advisable to re-graft some of the branches with varieties from neighbors.

There is another way to distinguish the savage. Abundant needles on a pear, many sharp thorns on an apricot, and are they sharp? This is almost a sure sign of a savage. On a pear 100%! On the market they act cunningly - the thorns are cut with pruners and covered with mud. After such "shaving" the seedlings are sold as a normal or fashionable variety.

Just don't blush

You can also distinguish savages by their foliage. Many apple (especially dwarf) and plum rootstocks have red foliage. Other rootstocks are often distinguished by their smaller leaves. If you get wilds with red leaves, don't worry. You can plant a cultivar on them and it will become a dwarf. But "passengers" with small foliage must be re-grafted completely.

And the last thing: a sign of wildness is the refusal of fruiting. Basically, savages begin to bear fruit no earlier than eight years later. For a long time there is no fruit? Grab a shovel and look for a vaccination site.