Is it possible to warm the facade of polystyrene foam. Technology of insulation of the facade of buildings by polystyrene foam and possible errors. Warming of the facade of polystyrene fiber technology styling plate

So that in the house there was warm it need to be insulated correctly, in consideration should be taken not only to the thickness of the foam, but also the technology itself, which can be achieved best results on the insulation of the outdoor walls of your facade. We suggest you familiarize yourself with the detailed step-by-step instructions for augmented photo.

Before starting work on insulation, it is necessary to carefully check and prepare the basis. The walls intended for gluing foam should be stable, dry, purified from dirt, dust, old peeling paint and other contaminants that reduce adhesion of the adhesive solution. An ideal way Wall purification is water purification under pressure or mechanical method (For example, with wire brushes or grinding machines). In the event of large clusters of moss and algae, the use of biocidal agents is recommended.

Alignment of the base

When evaluating the foundation, its condition is very important. With the help of a hammer, you can find a deaf sound, indicating the peeling of plaster. You must remove such a fragment and attach the resulting cavity. It is also recommended to repent the plaster from the outside of the slopes of the window and door openings, thus, to perform the insulation of slopes with a foam thickness from 3 to 5 centimeters. If there are coatings on the basis, such as paint, it is necessary to check its carrying capacity, scratching the sharp tool or glue the tape. If a partial separation of old paint occurs, the base should be considered weak, it must be carefully cleaned. In the event of irregularities, recesses the size of more than 10 mm, they must be aligned with an aligning solution.

Surface primer

Dust walls before the start of the gluing of the foam should be primed by primer deep penetration.

Check the strength of the foundation

If you doubt the fortress of the walls of the walls, you should conduct an adhesion test. For this purpose, on a properly prepared surface, we glue 8-10 polystyrene samples of 10 x 10 cm in different places. For gluing foam samples, a solution of a layer of glue with a thickness of 10 mm is applied. Samples of foam with applied solution should be pressed to specially reserved places on the wall surface. After a minimum of 3 days, it is necessary to try a manual separation, glued foam. If the rupture occurs in expanded polystyrene, this indicates sufficient strength of the base and adhesion of glue. If samples of polystyrene foams break off from the wall surface along with the layer of glue mass, this means that the walls were not properly prepared or that the upper layer does not have sufficient strength.

Installation of the base profile

Before the start of gluing foam plates, the base profiles must be fixed. To do this, it is necessary to determine the height of the base with the help of a folding cord to make marks on the base. After that, consolidate profiles with dowels - on average 3 pcs. On the trafficphone meter. In the event of the irregularities of the wall, the lining should be applied. It is recommended to connect profiles using special mounting clips. The base profiles besides determining the level and facilitation of the installation of thermal insulation materials, are responsible for protecting thermal insulation from open fire, dampness and destruction, insects, birds or rodents.

When installing the base profiles on the inner or outer corner of the building it is worth paying special attention to the correctness of their installation (see photo). It is also possible to use special connectors.

Preparation of adhesive solution

Before the beginning of gluing foam, it is necessary to properly prepare the adhesive solution. For gluing foam, apply the appropriate adhesive solution. The contents of the bag thoroughly mix with about 5.5 liters of clean, cold water using a low-speed drill with the corresponding stirrer. After receiving a homogeneous mass, without lumps, before use, you should wait for about 10 minutes and re-mix. The prepared solution is suitable for use for a period of 2.5 to 3 hours. During the work, it is necessary to periodically mix the solution approximately every 30 minutes. In the prepared solution, it is not allowed to add water in order to "improve" its consistency.

Polystyrene solutions

Depending on the type of base, the adhesive solution can be applied to the foam in several ways. In the case of insulation of a smooth surface, the adhesive solution is applied to the plates with a toothed grater with a teeth size of 10-12 mm. In other cases, the solution should be applied by the "circumference - point" method, i.e. with the help of the coil on the contour of the slab by a bandwidth around. 3-4 cm and additional pellets in the amount of 3-8 pieces. The size of the pellek should depend on their quantity. The amount of glue located on the edge should be so much so that after pressing the slab, the adhesive solution did not go beyond its limits. It is necessary to ensure that the adhesive solution covers at least 40% of the plates surface (see photo proper application glue on foam).

Printing plates from foam around window and doorways

Near the window and door openings, the plates should be chosen (cut) so that the seams are horizontal and vertical between the plates did not coincide with the edges of the holes (see photo). Such a location will prevent in the future the appearance of cracks at the finish finish.

Control of the plane, glued foam

Note that in the process of gluing foam plastic, the level and levels of the entire surface are observed using a plumb or level.

Filling the slots between plates from thermal insulation material

The gaps between the plates of more than 2 mm should be filled with strips cut off from the plates of foam. In the case of smaller gaps than 4 mm in systems using polystyrene foam slabs, it is also allowed to fill them with polyurethane foam. It is not allowed to fill the seams with a solution that is used to glue the plates due to the occurrence of cold bridges, as well as the risk of cracking along the joints of the slabs.

Aligning the surface of the glued foam

Foam plates after gluing should be a smooth surface. Protruding irregularities (bumps) should be pulled by a special grater or sandpaper. Grinding the surface of the plates can be performed not earlier than72 hours from the moment they are glued.

Fastening foam with a dowel-umbrella

If necessary, use additional protection Foamflast from separation, i.e., when the strength of the gap base is less than 0.08 MPa or the height of the building exceeds 20 m, mechanical compounds should be used, a dowel with an umbrella of plastic or metal.

Drilling holes and installation of a dowel-umbrella

The installation of the dowels can be started no earlier than 3 days after gluing polystyrene foam slabs, that is, after setting the adhesive solution.

It is believed that the depth of penetration of the rod deep wall should be:

• at least 5-6 cm - base, dense, (concrete, brick, silicate brick or stone);
• at least 8-9 cm - the base porous (aerated concrete, hollow brick and a seven).

The number of dowels for foam from 4 to 6 pcs / m². When determining the length of the dowels, you need to take into account the thickness of the old plaster, the layer of glue and thickness thermally insulating material. It should be borne in mind that, despite the carrying ability of the foundation in the case of buildings with a height of more than 20 m, mechanical compounds should be applied. The regional zones of the building where the greatest forces caused by the wind arise, that is, from 1 to 2 m from the edge, the insulation project should provide an increased number of dowels in these places.

Installation of dowel-umbrellas

The rods of the dowels should not appear for the plane of the umbrella. An ideal option, for the obstacle to the formation of cold bridges is the milling of the holes to the depth of 2 cm, in which the dowel-umbrella is taken. Then the space above it should be covered with residues of foam. It is wrong - this is to blame the umbrella with a hammer. Excessive recess of the umbrella in the material can lead to the appearance of cracks (rupture) of umbrellas, which as a result weakens the system carrying capacity.

Preparation of glue for foam reinforcement

To perform a layer reinforced with fiberglass mesh in a system of polystyrene foaming, it is necessary to use a adhesive solution intended for reinforcing foam plates. All the contents of the bag should be thoroughly mixed with the corresponding number. clean water Using a low-speed drill, equipped with a stirrer. Then the mass should be withstanding about 10 minutes and re-mix. Periodic mixing of the solution every 30 minutes is recommended. Depending on the temperature, the solution is suitable for use for approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. In the cooked solution, it is impossible to top up water in order to "improve" its consistency.

The glue is applied to the foam of a continuous layer with a thickness of about 3mm. For applying a solution, a toothed spatula with a teeth size is 10-12 mm. The adhesive solution is applied with vertical stripes of a width of fiberglass.

Cleaning reinforcing mesh fiberglass

After applying the adhesive solution on the grid, it is necessary to thoroughly drown, starting from the top by pressing it throughout the width. The grid must be evenly stretched over the entire surface, without waves, humps and bulges. To ensure the proper functioning of the layer, the reinforcing grid should be recessed in the middle of the thickness of the solution. The reinforcing mesh is not allowed directly on umbrellas or glued with ironing. Too deep or too small immersion of the grid, can lead to cracking and formation of rippers in the reinforcement layer. The thickness of the layer of the solution when using one grid should be from 3 to 5 mm.

At the light of the mesh in the layer of the solution, it should be noted that the vertical and horizontal edges of the mesh find each other, at least 10 cm. It is necessary to strictly follow the rules for wrapping the grid on the slopes and the windowsill and on the angles of the walls - in the case of the use of protective corners without Grids - slide the grid to the adjacent wall for about 15 cm. In case the walls of the building are subject to shocks and mechanical damage, given their location, it is necessary to apply a double mesh of fiberglass throughout the height of the walls of the first floor. After hardening the adhesive solution, in which the first layer of mesh made of fiberglass was immersed - the second layer of the solution should be applied and drown another layer of the mesh in it. The thickness of the layer reinforced by the double layer of the grid should be 6-8 mm.

The grid should be carefully covered, as the surface alignment affects the final type of facade. In the event of irregularities, they must be pulled out by sandpaper - otherwise they will be visible in the structure of thin layer plaster. Grinding can be performed in the case when the layer of the solution is not too solid.

Paint soil

After drying the reinforced layer, not earlier than in 3 days from its execution (this period can be extended in the event of adverse weather conditions) in order to ensure optimal adhesion decorative plaster To the base, you can proceed to applying paint-soil. Works should be performed at a temperature not lower than + 5 ° C and not higher than + 25 ° C, without weather precipitation. The soil should be applied with a brush or roller, remembering its uniform applied over the entire surface. It is not recommended to dilute the paint-ground due to the deterioration of its properties.

Applying decorative plaster

After drying the paint-soil, but not earlier than 24 hours after its application, it is possible to proceed to apply decorative plaster. To prepare, all the contents of the package should be thoroughly stirred with about 5.0 liters of pure water until a homogeneous consistency is obtained. The prepared solution is left for 10 minutes and re-stirred (without precipitating water). The solution prepared in this way is suitable no longer than 1 hour.

Applying thin layer plasters

During plastering work, the requirements of the relevant weather conditions should be followed, both during the application and during the drying of the plaster: avoid rain, strong wind and large sunlight. The optimal air temperature should be from 5 ° C to 25 ° C, and relative humidity should not exceed 75%. Due to the large temperature differences between the day and night, plastering work is not recommended from November to March. In case of danger due to a decrease in temperature below 5 ° C, the time of drying the plaster (at least 48 hours from the date of application) should also not be carried out plastering.

If these requirements are completed, you can proceed to apply plaster on a pre-primed wall.

With the help of a steel grater, apply the stucco with a thin layer on the thickness of the grain. Then you should smooth the surface, collecting excess material. After a while, depending on the conditions arising in the process of application, we strewing the plaster with a plastic grater. In order to avoid the visible line of contact between the fresh and already hardened layer of plaster, it is necessary to ensure a sufficient number of workers and scaffolding. During the application of decorative plaster, avoid breaks during the application of the layer and adhering to the main rule "wet on wet". Due to the increased absorption of thermal and ultraviolet radiation on the facades located south and the west, it is not recommended to use dark colors; The number of such colors on the surface of the facade should not exceed 10%.

Putting plaster

Pulling plaster should begin if the plastering is not sticking to the plastic grater. This time depends on air and soil temperature, relative humidity and material thickness. To perform the invoice, you need to use a plastic grater and, depending on the structure of plaster, give it suitable model. It should be borne in mind to put pressure on the grater with the same force holding it at a permanent angle.

Fucker type "Coroed"

Plaster with a structure of the type "Coroed" depends on the movements of the grater. You can draw vertical, horizontal, diagonal or circular recesses of a certain width depending on the size of the crumb.

Painting plaster

The paint can be applied with a brush, roller or mechanically by spraying always in two layers. It is allowed to dilute the first layer of paint, especially if the works are carried out at temperatures close to the maximum allowable (+ 25 ° C). For dilution of silicate paints, a special soil (solvent) should be used in an amount of up to 5%, and the remaining paints can be diluted with clean water in an amount up to 10%.

In the case of the second layer, the paint should be applied at undiluted. During work, you should adhere to the relevant weather conditions, i.e. avoid large number Sun rays, strong winds and precipitation. The optimal air temperature should be from 5 ° C to 25 ° C, and relative humidity should not exceed 75%

The insulation of the facade of the building can significantly reduce heat loss in winter. The maximum dimensions of thermal leaks occur on the walls: up to 40%. At the same time, through the windows takes up to 25% of heat, 20% through the roof and 15%.

The above figures are approximate, they demonstrate the need and economic effectiveness of insulation.

In the hot season of the year, the insulated house will not allow the inner space to overheat, it will be stored.

Facade insulation: what it is and for what is necessary

Under the insulation of the facade understand the decline in the thermal conductivity of the exterior walls of the building. For the organization of sufficient thermal insulation of walls in modern construction, two methods are used: "Wet insulation" and ventilated facade. Under the "wet insulation" understand the creation of a solid multi-layered wall structure consisting of support (, concrete), insulation, outdoor decoration (Plaster, facing brick), while all layers are interconnected by adhesive composition, without aircraft.

The ventilated facade provides for the presence of a layer of air as an insulator located between different layers of design. At the same time, for reliable mounting of the insulation and finishes, a frame is constructed, located inside the wall structure.

As insulation are used various materials Natural and artificial origin. Foam plastics (polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam), fibrous insulation ( mineral wool), natural and bulk materials (ceramzite, lightweight saman). The greatest prevalence in the facade insulation was the polystyrene foam (or foam).

Polystyrene foam: properties and characteristics

Expanded polystyrene (second name foam) is the most popular insulation material modern construction. With it, it is reduced by heat loss in 80% of thermally insulated buildings and structures. The wide popularity of this material as a heater is formed due to optimal combination His cost and saving effect. These are the most inexpensive plates representing a series of foamed plastics.

Polystyrene foam is the most inexpensive insulation

The low thermal conductivity coefficient value provides high thermal insulation, expanded polystyrene is almost no heat due to cells with air bubbles located everywhere in its structure. The coefficient of thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam allows them to replace them brick masonry or a stone wall (with a thickness of a layer of polystyrene foam 6 cm).

Of the disadvantages that must be taken into account when performing thermal insulation, we highlight the following:

• Combustion.
• The content of harmful synthetic substances as binders.
• Airtightness.

Considering the existing shortcomings, the polystyrene insulation is recommended to be used for outdoor insulation, while it is high-quality to isolate it from the surrounding space by plaster. Such a design will warn the penetration of substances from the insulation material into the air, will create a certain fireproof. In the event of a fire, caustic from the burning of polystyrene foam components will be formed outside the building. For the movement of air indoors with isolated walls, ventilation is necessarily organized.

The polystyrene foam is produced in the form of plates of various thickness. The required value of the section is calculated by the construction formulas, based on the data of the maximum winter temperatures. It can be tentatively to accept that the plate of polystyrene foam of 5 cm thick isolates the internal space of the house at maximum winter temperatures -15 -20ºC. Thickness 5 and 6 cm is the most popular and sold producers of polystyrene foam plates. More reliable thickness 8 cm, it will provide a heat capacity at -20 - 25º. Winter temperatures -30ºC require building warming with 10 cm plates thick.

Facade insulation of polystyrene foam: sequence of actions

Consider in detail the sequence of operations during the outer insulation of the facade with plates of expanded polystyrene. Outdoor insulation is preferable to internal, the insulation from the outside of the building protects the wall from wetting, freezing, and blocks the outflow of heat into the street.

Scheme insulation facade polystyrene foam

Only saves inner heatAt the same time, the walls themselves remain unprotected, their durability is reduced.

Surface preparation

For the insulation of the facade, the plates of polystyrene is first performed the preparation of the facade surface. Since the surface of the mounted plates of the insulation is smooth, it is necessary to align the surface of the walls for reliable clutch. It is allowed to have small depressions and recesses, are not allowed and significantly violated the strength of gluing protrusions and bugs. They must be cleaned, make the facade surface smooth. As preparations for sticking plates, it is recommended to primer the walls in the impregnating composition.

Primer is convenient to apply a thick brush or roller with a long handle

Primer action:

• Improves adhesion with subsequent gluing.
• Impreets the walls by an antiseptic, warning the formation of fungus in them.
• It may have additional moisture-resistant properties that allow you to make the outer layer of the supporting wall waterproof.

Sticking polystyrene foam

Plates of the same thickness selected in accordance with winter temperatures are pasted with rows. The first row of the bottom, then the top over it, and so on. In the subsequent row, the first stove is cut to half size, in order to obtain a chess order in gluing the insulation. The glue on polystyrene foams for construction standards should be fully applied to the entire glued surface.

Application of glue on polystyrene foam

In practice, the glue is often applied in part: along the perimeter of the plate and point (4-6 spots) in the middle of the surface. The second option to glue the walls on the wall is the molding of the walls with a layer of glue with a thickness of about 5-10 mm, while the glue is applied with strips, with empty gaps, to ensure the spreading of the adhesive mass under the stove attached to the wall.

The foam glue should not contain acetone or solvent, these substances dissolve the foam insulation, make holes in it different size. Universal adhesive for foam plastic is a dry polymer modified cement mixwhich is breeding with water before applying.

Specialized glue is produced on the basis of a multicomponent composition without polystyrene solvents, or based on the foaming single-component polyurethane.

Strengthening plate dowels

The strengthening of polystyrene foam slabs is carried out in a day after gluing them, during this time the glue must dry and harden. Dowels for foamed plastics are plastic nails with a wide hat, called "umbrellas", "Tarbed dowels".

In cases where the stove was smeared with glue completely, there is no need to strengthen it additionally. Also, dowel fasteners are used on the curves of the walls, they help to press the insulation to the wall close (if necessary). Sometimes a dowel fixed the corners of the plates, warning their separation.

The junctions between the plates are labeled with glue or special mounting foam without expansion.

Drive fasteners hammer

It is interesting to know that you can perform insulation without using glue. In this case, polystyrene plates are mounted on the surface of the wall only with umbrella dowels.

Reinforcing layer

The reinforcing grid is strengthened on top on the plates. It is necessary for subsequent applying plaster. Watching the surface can be performed in one or two layers. The first layer is performed by moisture-resistant material, it provides waterproofing insulation. You can use cement with active hydrostile additives.

Reinforcing Mesh and Plaster Application

The second layer is not applied when finishing with siding or facing brick. When forming outdoor "fur coats" from cement, the second layer of plaster will be decorative, finishing.

Outdoor facing

Outdoor facing facade tiles

The outer facing of the warmed walls can be performed in three ways:

• Stucco with subsequent staining or without it.
• Laying of facing bricks.
• Holding siding panels.

The insulation of the facade of polystyrene foam is a simple technological operation available to fulfilling without special knowledge or skills.

To reduce heating costs, many household owners and apartments are thinking about insulation. One of the possible options is the insulation of the facade of foam (PPS or EPPS). The work is not the simplest, but you can cope with your own hands. It is important to know technology. It is detailed in detail, in detail and tell on.

PPS or EPPS (foam or extruded polystyrene foam)

The insulation of the facade of foam begins with the solution of the question: what is still better to use, foam (PPP) or extruded polystyrene foam (EPPS). Both and the other material are made from one source substance (polystyrene), but they are used by various technologies. Going into the subtleties of the processes is hardly worth it, it is important to know the main differences between these two materials. So, if briefly:

• Polyfoam is softer, absorbs moisture, insects, rodents like it. With good characteristics, it has a small cost.
• Epps - more rigid and dense, water practically does not absorb, it does not like insects and rodents. The main drawback is a high price. In the case of insulation of walls outside, there is another minus - its pre-processing is necessary (it is necessary to scratch the surface), and this is time.

There are still some plus Epps - usually plates are made with a quarter, that is, direct junctions will be much smaller with insulation, and it means that the cold bridges will be much smaller. The choice is not easy, especially if you consider that the difference in price is solid - 2 times. To make it easier to decide, several positions at EPPS prices and PPS are shown in the table.

Manufacturer / title	Density	Thickness	List sizes	Price
Primaplex 35 (EPPS)	35 kg / m3	50 mm	1200 mm * 600 mm	4250 - 4400 rubles / cubic meters
Primaplex 35 (EPPS)	35 kg / m3	100 mm	1200 mm * 600 mm	4850-5100 rub / cubic meters
TWOOX 35 (EPPS)	35 kg / m3	50 mm	1200 mm * 600 mm	4450-4650 rub / cubic meters
TWOOX 35 (EPPS)	35 kg / m3	100 mm	1200 mm * 600 mm	4450-4650 rub / cubic meters
URSA XPS N-III (EPPS)	35 kg / m3	50 mm	1250 mm * 600 mm	4400-4500 rub / cubic meters
CARBON PROF 300 (EPPS)	35 kg / m3	50 mm	1180 mm * 580 mm	4500-4650 rubles / cubic meters
CARBON PROF 300 (EPPS)	35 kg / m3	100 mm	1180 mm * 580 mm	4500-4650 rubles / cubic meters
	17 kg / m3	50 mm	1000 mm * 2000 mm	2330-2480 rub / cubic meters
Polyfoam Mosstroy 31 PSWS 25	17 kg / m3	100 mm	1000 mm * 2000 mm	2330-2480 rub / cubic meters
Polyfoam Mosstroy 31 PSBS 25F (T.50 mm.) Facade	16.5 kg / m3	100 mm	1000 mm * 2000 mm	3000-3150 rubles / cubic meters
Knauf Therm Wall.	25 kg / m3	50 mm / 100 mm	1000 mm * 1200 mm	2465-2600 rubles / cubic meters
KNAUF THERM FASADE LIGHT		50 mm / 100 mm	1000 mm * 1200 mm	2850-2950 rubles / cubic meters

Deciding with the type of material, you can start mounting.

Preparatory work

The insulation of the facade of foam begins with the preparation of the walls. Immediately let's say when it is better to start work - in a warm period of time. But the most important indicator is the moisture of the walls. They should be dry. After the rain it is desirable to wait a week dry, preferably - windy, weather. After that, you can start.

Preparation of outdoor walls

Preparation for the insulation of the facade of the foam begins with the purification of everything that peeling and falls off. If the walls were covered with paint, it is removed, lime - believes. If there are swollen places plaster or tile, they are frown. There should be only what keeps firmly.

Then comes the time of alignment of the walls. Very good if the insulation plates will lie on the wall with the entire surface, without voids. But such walls are rather an exception than the rule, because the irregularities of about 1 cm per square meter are permissible. Large in depth / height protrusions and pit should be aligned - fill the plastering solution (pre-trunking) or to rush. The greater the surface will be, the easier it will be work.

Primer or not

It is not necessary to primitive only those walls by spending a hand on which the palm remains clean. If there are white traces, pieces of plaster, sand, etc., better to progress. This will ensure the best glue contact with the wall. The operation takes a little time, it is carried out simply, money requires a little, and the benefit of it is large. So if the insulation of the facade of the foam or Epps make "for themselves", it is better to bust.

The primer comes with any, for facade works. Normal firms - Ceresit, Master, Craisel, Tokan, Ecomix. The soil is diluted or not - depending on the form of release and instructions, applied with a brush or from a sprayer. The sprayer is faster and easier, and the brush is better.

Preparation of EPPS

If we decided to make insulation of walls outside the polystyrene foam (EPPS), its surface must be made not as smooth. Polyfoam has a more loose structure and does not need preliminary preparation. On the surface of the Epps, it is necessary to make scratches, otherwise it falls off from the glue.

Take a sicky roller, which is treated with plasterboard, and they rolled well in all directions. The second way is to take a brush with metal bristle and make it a groove. Soften methods for work. Work is not important, but time requires a lot. It is necessary to make it before starting the installation of polystyrene foam on the walls. If the insulation laying is in two layers, it is necessary to process sheets for both layers.

Finishing windowsill, slopes, low

All elements are window sills, slopes and a drop (drip) better to install before the installation of the insulation on the walls. When installing, it is necessary to remember that you still have a solid thickness of the insulation + finish. If the window sills and slopes have already been installed, they will have to be replaced - they will be too short. So that everything looked organically and easily snapped with insulating pie, the elements must have the following dimensions:

As you can see preparatory work Before insulating the facade of the foam (polystyrene), also require time. They are not complicated, but significantly affects the general result.

Foam Mounting Technology on Wall

For a normal result, the foam on the wall is first glued, then nailed. That's the way, and not otherwise. Glue begin to bottom, as a rule, from the left corner. If the house is insulated with foam, then the first row is based on installedif improving thermal insulation in apartment house, nourish the starting bar. Without it, the likelihood is that the foam will crawl down.

Materials and tools

For the stickers of the foam on the walls, two spatula will be needed. One width of about 100 mm, the second 180-200 mm. The glue of the tank is gaining narrow, widely apply it to the walls. Even for trimming the material it may be necessary to be saw with a cannut with a small tooth. From the tools at this stage everything. We still need glue. It requires a special, on the bag should be written "for polystyrene plates" or something similar. There are two varieties of such adhesion:

• Universal composition for polystyrene and subsequent finish of the facade (grid sticking and leveling layer).
• The composition is only for gluing polystyrene on the walls. Universal required for other layers.

If you approach the question from the point of view of economic, it is more profitable to buy two different compositions - universal is decently more expensive. And glue can make a number of operations:

The list of works for which universal glue is needed:

• gluing the grid on the corners (and slopes too) and the walls;
• applying the leveling layer.

The consumption of both compositions is about the same and is 4-6 kg per square meter. Consumption may be less if the walls are initially smooth and a smaller layer of glue is required (it is not necessary to level the depressions). Consumption on the leveling layer (after gluing the grid) depends on how far the polystyrene is fixed, sticking out or not its corners.

For the second stage - fastening polystyrene on the walls - we need fungi. It is a special shape dowel with a large plastic hat and a long leg. Steel or plastic dowel-nails are inserted into the dowel. When the facade is insulated with polystyrene, it is better to use plastic. They do not spend cold, are not subject to corrosion, it is less, and the load is a large warmed facade does not create.

To install fungi, you will need a drill and hammer. To apply a grid and the leveling layer, you will need a wide spatula - 300-350 mm or even more. For grinding the leveling layer, we need a plastic grater and sandpaper with grain 400-500.

Polystyrene gluing technique

The glue is indulge in the manufacturer's guidelines (stir a drill with a nozzle or mixer). It is more convenient to work when it is slightly curd than it turns out if you adhere to the recommendations. Therefore, we do not add water a little less, and there look at how convenient work.

If the wall is uneven, we put the glue on the wall. It is so easier to adjust the unevenness - put more in the excavation and less on the humps. If there is too much humps left to reduce glue consumption, you can make a recess in the foam. With Epps, such a focus will not pass.

Putting a solution with "cakes" to 9-10 over the area, and also make a roller (you can not solid) approximately around the perimeter of the plate, retreating 3-4 cm from the edge. The sizes of the pellets are not necessarily the same. It is important only to align the surface. Having placed glue, we apply the foam, appreciate, clap the palm (not much so as not to minimize). The sausages, unfolded around the edges, can get out of seams or "swim" under other sheets. What is covered with other sheets is normal and even well, it will be more strongly held. But the outstretched glue is better to pick up. Then there will be less alignment.

There is a second technique - impose glue on foam plastic, align it with a comb (gear spatula) and so glued. But this method is only suitable on smooth facades without drops.

When laying a second row, the sheets are placed so that the seams are not solid (with a displacement, such as brickwork). All subsequent rows also follow the seams do not coincide. The glued on the facade of the foam leave for 3 days - about so much the glue dries. In the meantime, we glue it in the second plot.

A few words about how it is more convenient to glue foam on the facade and what kind of site. If a private house is insulated with foam, the work area is significant, as well as height. Part of the work will be done from the ground, the part will have to be carried out with dismisses. To carry less than them, it is more convenient to carry out work areas. One plot is fully made - from the coaling of foam to the leveling layer, go to the next. In this order of work there is another plus: less polystyrene remains open (it reacts poorly to ultraviolet).

Nail foam (EPPS)

So, after the glue is drying (3 days after it is glued) we take plastic fungi (those that are more expensive, they are tough and well clogged). Their length depends on the thickness of the insulation. To her (thickness) it is necessary to add 4-5 cm to which the fungus must enter the wall. If the foam in your 50 mm layer, then the fungi should not be shorter than 9-10 cm.

Fungi should be 4-5 cm to enter the wall. In the picture is made inaccuracy - the grid passes over the fungus

One plate requires 5-6 fungi. In the selected places, drill holes (drill 10 mm) by 2-3 cm deeper than the length of the feet of fungus. If you do the holes in short, they are clogged with dust of the material and are not inserted completely. The location of fungi is one in the center of the plate and several in the fields of joints. This position allows you to feed the foam, align the wall at the same time (tighten the coal to the desired position).

IN drilled hole Inserted, then droves with a hammer, fungus. His hat should lie tightly on the insulation. If not lying, remove, deepen the hole. Sometimes after a number of mushrooms installed fungi, they cease to be clogged. So the burred buried - it became less in diameter - and it's time to change it.

They clog fungi so that the hat is slightly recessed in the foam - left somewhere on 1 mm. Then the flow of glue on the leveling layer will be less. With foaming, it is simple to score with polystyrene foam (EPPS) more difficult.

If the layers of the insulation are two

If the required heater thickness is greater than 50 mm, but less than 100 mm, lay two layers. In this case, one layer is glued, as described above, the sheets of the second are placed so that they do not coincide with the joints of the first. When the second layer is sticker, it is more convenient to apply glue onto a sheet, and not on the wall. The joints of the first can not be pushed and not married - they will blocked.

If there is time, before applying the second layer it is desirable to wait until the first dry. If there is no such possibility, you can glue the second immediately, but no more than 2 m, otherwise sheets can move.

Snake foam mushrooms begin after drying glue (the same 3 days). Only not mistaken the calculation of the length of the fungus - the overall thickness of the insulation + 1 cm on glue + 4-5 cm into the wall. The depth of the opening is another 2-3 cm more, the diameter of the same is 10 mm. When the foam is nailed to the facade, you can move on.

Sealing joints and fungi

First, align the facade of the facade, plastic-plastic. It often turns out that the edges of the polyfoam are sticking out somewhere. They can be cut off the stationery (bulk) knife. There are still special grabs for foam. They are comfortable to smooth the surface. With Epps, it is also possible to try to do, but only a knife, and it cuts badly. The work takes a lot of time, but it is worth spending time - this will reduce the consumption of expensive compositions for subsequent layers of finishes.

Then, to eliminate cold air from the stoves, the seams are watched. Take the same composition on the spatula, which glued on the facade of the foam, fill the seams. If there are seams more than 3 mm, they lay the narrow strip of the insulation, then we wash the glue. You can fill the seam by mounting foam. We leave it for 4-5 hours, then the excess is cut off with a knife and above the glue. Hats fungi are recessed, they are also smeared, aligning with the main surface.

When grouting seams and hats, we try to make the surface smooth - the glue should not perform. If I looked around somewhere, after drying, we take the grater, fasten the sandpaper (grain 400-500) and align. Only it is necessary to wait for a complete drying - hitting the wet glue, the emery is instantly clogged, it only needs to be changed (the grid is not suitable for this work).

Reinforcement and plaster foam

Sometimes the insulation of the facade of the foam must be stretched for two seasons - leave to be turned off at some stage. No harm for materials can be left only after applying the leveling layer. Just attached foam (EPPS) cannot be left. It is recommended even packed in packs to keep in the room, and not on the street. So it is possible to interrupt only after plaster.

Sticker reinforcing mesh on corners

The grid uses the facade, for external work (internal from the glue is simply scattered). Density 140-160 gr / sq. m. First glue the corners. The angles are reinforced by everything - and outdoor, and internal and slopes. Important! From now on, it is necessary to use a universal composition, and not the one on which foam glue.The glue is bred a little fat than indicated in the instructions - it should be good to stick on the soldier, but it is easy to pushed through the grid.

For reinforcement, you can use a finished angle with a mesh, you can cut the rull strips (30 cm wide) and glue them. It is easier to work with a finished angle, cheaper - with a piece of grid. If you do from the roll, cutting the strips across the roll, it turns out pieces of meter length. Fold them along in half and well bend melted with a spatula. It is necessary to fold so that the edges of the grid wock inside (she was in the roll). If it turns out on the contrary - they will stick out of the glue layer, it will work hard.

In any case, the work is almost the same. An angle is applied on two sides strip of solution 6-7 cm wide, 2-3 mm thick. If the glue is not the finished angle, and the bent mesh stripes, the length of the area filled with a solution should be 5-7 cm into the sliced \u200b\u200bpiece of the sliced \u200b\u200bpiece (93-95 cm).

The angle or a piece of a bent mesh is assigned from above. Holding the spatula on the grid, it is slightly pressed into the glue. Movement "Christmas tree" - top-down and to the side.

Approximately half of the mesh on the sides remains without glue. It is normal - it will be easier to stick it to the reinforcement of foam in the wall plane. Also without glue remains a band at the top, if glue from pieces. Sticking the next piece above, apply glue directly to this "empty" grid, cover top with the next segment. So the joint is the same thickness as the entire angle.

When forming an angle, we try to make it smooth. If not obtained by a conventional spatula, you can take an angular (in the photo at the top). It will be easy - just with one push to lead from above-down.

Reinforcement

Polyfoam and EPPS are enhanced by applying a layer of plastic grid, which is pressed into the glue composition (universal). The procedure for such:

The glued grid is left to dry. There should be half a day for a minimum, but better - a day. After you take a grater with a sandpaper and align all irregularities.

Foam plaster (applying the leveling layer)

The technique of applying plaster on the foam is no different from the standard (). Determine the thickness of the leveling layer based on the result of the previous work. If the previous layer was applied exactly, aligning can be very thin - several millimeters.

There is only a feature - the mixture should be slightly liquid. Even a little fat than when applying the grid. It is easier to align such a consistency.

The applied leveling layer is left to dry. Time depends on the temperature and thickness of the layer. Wait until it dry completely, otherwise the emery will throw. His, by the way, at this stage it is better to use a shabby - even more surface. Decent scratches remain from the new. It is critical if you then plan the facade to just paint, and under the application of decorative plaster, you can work new.

At this, the insulation of the facade of foam is over. Next - finishing works. What they will - choose to you.

All stages are demonstrated in the video. There is only one error: when the grid is sticker, it rolls on the bed with a layer of glue, and not on a dry wall. With such technology as in the video, the likelihood is that all finishing will fall together with the grid.

Warming facade foaming

This article will tell you in detail how to perform the insulation of the facade, what nuances and materials need to choose. Here you will find a description of the stages of work when performing outdoor thermal insulation at home. We will tell you about what advantages and minuses exist with foam plastic, how to properly prepare the surface in order to get an excellent result. This article features and understandably described the process of proper fastening the base profile, the beginning mounting work By insulation at home. We took into account all possible nuances for the fact that you are easily learned by the work on the insulation of the room.

Specialists in the development of insulation designs have long been working on the question of how to reduce the possibility of heat loss during the construction of buildings. The solution to this problem will lead to a significant decrease in economic costs.

Technologies are constantly evolving, thanks to which the optimal solution to the issue of insulation of structures has been found. The method of fastened thermal insulation is used for a long time. This technology is constantly being improved. Specialists have research, new leadership and technological maps are being created. Many countries have developed and launched energy saving programs. They are based on the idea of \u200b\u200b"wet" outdoor insulation of houses, which were built earlier.

For the method of bonded thermal insulation, materials having high heat engineering indicators are used. They are made in the form of mats and stoves. For example, foam, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool. Works performed using these materials are identical. Only a little different installation technology.

More often for insulation use foam plastic. This is explained by the low value of the material, low thermal conductivity, good characteristics In operation. Due to the fact that the material has low weight, it is possible an effective and inexpensive insulation of any buildings. When using foam, there is no need to strengthen the supporting structures and strengthen the foundation.

Problems When insulation of the outer facade may occur only with incorrect selection of materials or coarse technological errors. Consider the phased process of insulation of the house with the help of foam.

Using foam: advantages and disadvantages

Experience shows that there are no such materials that would not have flaws. Polyfoam is no exception. Along with a mass of positive qualities, it has both negative. Consider those and others.

polyfoam good insulation

Pros when insulating the facade of foam:

• efficiency when using material compared to other heat insulators;
• good thermal conductivity indicators;
• when using foams, vaporizolation is not required;
• the material does not absorb moisture;
• polyfoam is durable to use;
• material is not affected by microorganisms
• insulation is easily mounted.

Cons with the insulation of the facade of foam:

• flammability;
• when combustion highlights the caustic smoke, which is very toxic;
• it is easily spoiled by small rodents.

As can be seen from the list, there are much more positive moments than negative. Therefore, insulating the facade of foam, you make the right choice.

The process of thermal insulation using foam is not complicated. It is necessary to study the main stages, choose the necessary tools and consumables. Please note that they should be intended for external finishing works.

First of all, you need to find out the number of foam required for insulation of the house. It is easy to find out, you just need to measure the outdoor area of \u200b\u200bthe building. It is important to correctly calculate the zero point for each specific case.

If the goal is the insulation of a residential building, then experts advise to buy foam sheets with a thickness of 25-45 mm. In case of thermal insulation of industrial objects for walls, it is necessary to use a heater with a thickness of at least 60 mm, for the roofs - 80mm.

Important moment! If you were wrong, the zero point was calculated, then the accumulation of dampness indoors is possible. Because of it, mold may occur, unpleasant smell and increased humidity. Pay attention to the density of the material when the facade is insulation. Use the recommendations of specialists.

The main stages in the insulation of the walls of the foam:

1. The wall that needs to be inspired.
2. Glue (adhesive material).
3. Social profile.
4. Polystyrene plates.
5. Grid and dowel.
6. Layer of primer.
7. Layer decorative finish.

The insulation of the facade of the foam with its own hands is happening in the following order:

• walls must be prepared;
• mounting the base profile;
• mounting foam plastic;
• seal seams;
• hold the facade plaster;
• apply an aligning layer.

For quick and high-quality work, prepare all the materials and tools in advance.

You need the following materials:

1. foam or polystyolster;
2. primer for external work;
3. glue for foam;
4. socological profile;
5. construction mounting foam;
6. putty;
7. reinforced grid;
8. gear and smooth spatula;
9. a hammer;
10. tarbed dowels;
11. perforator;
12. plastic grater for grouting.

Stage of preparation of the walls of the facade

Due to how qualitatively, the preparation of the walls will be performed, the functionality and durability of the thermal insulation will be depeted. This is one of the most time-consuming and painstaking stages in the work. But without fulfilling it, you are not insulation the building is properly.

Start with the fact that free the wall from all the protruding items: windowes, air conditioning blocks, ventilation grilles, storm gutters, lighting devices, etc. If communications fall into the wall plane, they should also be removed. With the insulation of old buildings, the facade side often has decorative elements. For high-quality insulation they will have to eliminate.

Check out the strength of the outer finish if the walls were plastered earlier. Capture it. Determine whether vertical deviations in the surface are available. To do this, use a plumb or cord. If such were found, then tick them with chalk. Often, at this stage, significant levels of level and weaknesses in the plaster are detected. If such problems are detected, it is necessary to eliminate them. At least make disassembly of the poor layer of plaster. Enclosures of concrete can be removed from chisel.

Cracks and potholes on the wall are ground using penetrating deep inside, compositions. This is done with the help of Maclavitz. After the solution is driving, it must be sharpened with a cement-based mixture. Cracks whose width does not exceed 2 mm, you can not close. Local depressions on the wall must be eliminated by gluing a piece of wall insulation.

Important moment! The base having the irregularity of more than 15 mm must be projected, then align the plaster.

After the preliminary preparation of the walls was performed, the surface was aligned and dried, the outer brackets are elongated, the plaster, the fill of the screeds, waterproofing - can be processed to the final primer surface and begin the insulation of the facade of the foam with its own hands.

Important moment! If you plan to be placed under the foam of communication, then in order to avoid possible damage with further doweling of the insulation, check the paths of them. You can also take photos by attaching a deployed roulette to enclosing structures.

Fix the base profiles, starting bar

confirmation Social Profile - Starting Plank

Relying on the project, it is necessary to determine the lower point of the plane that you insulate. Then, using a hydroevinum, you need to transfer this mark to all the corners of the structure, both external and internal. Connect them with a coated thread or cord. You will have a starting line. On the markup, start installing the ground profile. With it, the first row of foam plates will be held, since they can easily move on the cheese. Select the starting bar in size, it should be the same as the width of the insulation. Attach it on the sixmillimeter dowels with an interval of 250-350 mm. It is recommended to wear the washers on the clogged nail "fast-edge". Corners of the starting plank are docked by the method of oblique cuts, you can use the corner connector. Put the connecting elements from plastic between the pieces of the base profiles. They compensate for temperature expansions.

Important moment! Never perform compounds of the base profile of the mustache.

Installation of foam on the walls

First prepare the adhesive composition. It should be used immediately. Already 2 hours after the kneading mass thickens. Therefore, prepare glue in the amount you need to work at the moment. Use a large plastic bucket or pelvis. Pour the amount of water specified in the instructions. Slowly fall asleep dry mixture, constantly stirring a drill, equipped with special nozzles, on low revs. The stirred solution should stand for 5 minutes. After that, use a drill with the nozzle again. If the mixture thickened during the work, then just stir it.

Important moment! Do not use water to thin the thickened glue. Carefully read the instruction manual of the adhesive composition.

Application of glue on foam plates

Apply glue on foam plates

Select a certain method of applying glue, depending on which differential on the plane must be compensated. When irregularity up to 15 mm, the glue is applied along the perimeter of the plate, retreating 20 mm from the edge. The width of the applied band is about 20 mm. In the middle of the slab point point 5-7 beacons 100 mm in diameter.

The glue is applied around the perimeter and on the middle of the plate if the base defects are 10 mm and less. Strip width is 25-45 mm. The glue during installation should cover a little more than half of the sheet of foam. Remember that at the time of pressed, the adhesive mixture will be distributed between the wall and the insulation.

If the insulation plate is installed on a flat surface, the differential of which is no more than 5 mm, then the insulation can be launched with a solid layer. Use for this toothed spatula-comb (Tooth 10 * 10 mm).

Important moment! Apply intermittent glue bands. This is necessary so that there is no formation of closed air traffic jams.

How to glue insulation on the walls?

In the range of 20 minutes after you have applied a mixture, the slab must be glued. Apply the sheet to the desired place with a slight offset (20-30 mm). Then press the long halfer or the rule into the plane of the adjacent plates. Surplus glue from the surface of the base of foam is necessary to remove immediately. Check using the level each glued sheet. Using thread, it is convenient to control the direction of the plane. Cress the sheets tightly to each other, 2 mm is the maximum distance between the stoves. If the installations formed the gaps more than this value, they must be seen by the insulation strips and use foam. Delta at the joints can be no more than 3 mm in thickness.

Important moment! Do not move the slab after gluing. Otherwise risk breaking the strength of the connection with the surface of the wall. If you need to throw a sheet, then remove it, clean the glue, apply a new layer of the mixture and re-glue.

Start the installation of foam from the bottom up. The sheets of the first row must be restricted into the ground profile. Therefore, it must be set perfectly even relative to the wall surface. Usually, it is most convenient to start with the installation of the first and last rows of plates, and along their outer upper edge, pull the control thread, which will help glue the rest of the sheets.

A row of plates that goes next must have tied vertical joints. Their offset should be with respect to the previous one with a value of at least 200 mm. It is best to use the "chess" order of laying foam sheets. This will provide them with additional reliability.

align the foam with a level or rule

Make sure that the joints that are near doors and windows do not fall into one line with slopes on the sides. Try to ensure that the connection happens under the opening or above it, with a displacement of at least 200 mm. Elements that have a M-shaped shape are well coped with the prevention of cracking, which go from the corners to the impact.

If there are connections on the wall different materials (for example, brick wall It goes into a wooden), the plates of the foam should not have junctions in this place. Sleep the seam at least 100 mm. The same rule must be adhere to the insulation of the plots, in places of which under the plane there are recessed or protruding parts of the facade.

Protect the coil plates on the corners of the facade, both internal and external. There will be no formation of a long vertical seam if the insulation of the extreme row will be wedged into the plane of adjacent surfaces. Mount the plates of external corners and slopes with the release, the size of which will be sufficient for dressing. After the angle is formed, the foam can be cut and polished. Cutting material produce using a metal line and square. Use a knife with a wide blade, or a saw having a thin canvas and a small teeth. So you can cut the foam smoothly.

Proper fastening of the insulation near window and doorways

When insulation of slopes, join the plates with door and window boxes. Use the adjacent profile or polyurethane foam sealing tape. Stick it on the box, squeeze with the insulation on half of your thickness. By the window, which is located in the plane of the facade, the thermal insulation material should go a little behind the frame (at least 20mm). Box also curse the sealing ribbon.

Mount the foam with a gap of 10-12 mm if the wall has a seam with deformation. After that, to put the harness from polyethylene foam, having a round cross section. Scroll to 30% of the source diameter. Performing the insulation of the facade of the foam with its own hands, it is convenient to have seals of various thicknesses.

Stage of fixing heat insulating plates with dowels

After the glue completely grabbed (usually it is at least 3 days), you can begin the foam fixing step by dowels. For this purpose, special fasteners use

Proper fastening of foam to the facade with dowels

scheme of fastening insulation Dowels, 4/6/8 It all depends on the size of the slab

from high-strength elastic plastic. Such dowels have a wide hat made in the form of an umbrella, perforation and a scoring nail out of plastic. Depending on the thickness of the sheet of foam and the characteristics of the base, select the desired fastener length. In the brick, the umbrella should be included in 90 mm, in concrete - 50 mm, in a block having a cellular structure - 120 mm.

Most often, the mount is performed in the center of the plate and at its corners. The calculation is 6-8 fasteners per 1 m2. Additional dowels are installed near door slopes, window Operactions, at the corners of the building, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base. Position them in 200 mm from the edge of the sheet. The number of additional fasteners depends on the dimensions of the building, the size of the plates of the foam, the characteristics of the dowel.

Using the perforator, drill the hole. Remove dust from it. Experts advise to make a deepening longer than the fastener stem for 10-15 mm. Insert a dowel, and score it into the hole with a rubber hammer. Or screw the pin with a screwdriver. The fastener hat should be closed with the surface of the insulation leaf. Maximum protrusion - no more than 1 mm.

Important moment! Do not use a dowel with a metal rod. They can lead to the formation of cold bridges. If drumming the rod head occurred during the scoring, then it is completely climbing in the insulation, the top should be sealing. Next to the spoiled mount, make one more. Making an umbrella installation strictly perpendicular to the wall surface plane. Check the fastening strength to the separation.

Watercover reinforced layer and its device

Perform auxiliary grid layers that will strengthen the reliability of the design.

With the help of reinforcing patches from the reinforcing mesh, it is necessary to smoke the angles of window and doorways. Make samples of no less than 200x300 mm. The implementation of this procedure will avoid cracks arising from the inner corner of the opening. Installation of the main reinforcing layer does not differ from the installation of grid-intensity.

Step installation of perforated corners

Installation of perforated corners for insulation

It is necessary to enhance all the outer corners of the building, slopes, protruding decorative elements. For this, plastic or aluminum perforated corners are used. They are with the grid strips already attached to them. The glue is applied on both sides of the angle. The width of the strip should affect the grid so that it is also glued. After that, the perforated angle cropped in the desired way is pressed to the insulation leaf with a spatula. Using the level, an angle of horizontal and vertical occurs. Glue, which spoke out of the holes of the mesh cells, smoothes over the wall surface. You need to connect perforated corners, cutting a part of the shelf and the grid from the edge of the profile at an angle of 45 °. If necessary, the corner can be fixed, align, stretched. To do this, insert nails into the insulation through holes. After gluing, they can be deleted.

Stage to create the main reinforcing layer

After the extra layers were dried, and the fixation of all elements of reinforcement occurred, the main mesh is started.

The reinforcing mesh is glued with an overlap about 10 cm

In order to strengthen the heat-insulating material, use a special grid designed for work with the facade. It is made of fiberglass, a short and alkaline-resistant, which is able to withstand the load of about 1.25 kN on the band in 50 mm wide.

The mixture used to protect the insulation and mount the reinforcing mesh differs from the one that was used for stove stickers. But the principle of cooking remains the same. You must slowly fall asleep dry substance into water. Then carefully stir the solution using a drill with special tips.

Severate using hand-making with sandpaper glued sheets. This will eliminate the differences on the joints of the plates. Before applying the solution, make sure that the surface should be cleaned from dirt, dust and residues from grinding.

Cut the grid to the same strip in the altitude. To neatly apply a glue solution with a layer, the thickness of which should be about 2 mm. Use for this Metal Harry or Grater. The prepared grid must be unwinding for the entire length of the surface with the surface glue, applied to the solution, press, using a grater or a nasty metal staple. Close the canvas starting from the middle. Promotion neatly to the edges. Excess glue roll over the surface of the walls.

Important moment! Do not press the grid to the insulation, place it in the middle of the layer.

Apply the second layer of the solution on the newly glued reinforced grid. The thickness of the mixture should be at least 2 mm. It is necessary to leave the edge with a thickness of 100 mm in order to be able to impose the following mesh strip. Carefully crumple a new layer of glue. If you are all done correctly, then the grid should not be visible through it. Apply a mixture to the surface next to the glued reinforced web. The next mesh strip must be covered with 100 mm previous. Next, continue to apply glue to the surface and apply a reinforced grid to it.

Strengthen the reinforcing grid near the windows and doors

The next day after laying the reinforced canvase, it should not be completely dry. It was then that it must be stuck using sandpaper. If you need repeated alignment, you can use an additional adhesive mass. But you should wait for the moment when the first layer of the reinforced mesh coated with glue is completely dry.

Three days, reinforced walls must be completely dry. They need to be treated with a soil mixture that contains quartz sand. It will provide a high degree of adhesion for the layers that will be applied in the future. In addition, it will be easier to apply decorative plaster. How to do it right, will be told in the following articles.

• Conduct work on the insulation of the walls in the described method at a temperature of from +5 to +25 degrees. The humidity of the air should not exceed 80%. Protect from the effects of precipitation, sun rays, wind surfaces. Use solid curtains stretched on top of the forests or thick grid.
• Forests install reliably. Pour an indentation from the building in size in 200-300 mm. Such designs provide access to any sections of the wall and several meters of surfaces adjacent to it. Forests are erected in such a way that the unobstructed opportunity to carry out any technological work is provided.
• Using the greasy tape, perform work on the rope of door, window boxes. Note also polyethylene film. Cover it or pieces of cardboard of the breakfast and the building porch. After the end of the painting work immediately remove the scotch.
• The thermal insulation material can not be stored under the sun. Also avoid it to fall under the snow and rain.
• If you were covered with a wall with foam, and for a long time do not apply the reinforced layer, then the insulation plates can be brightened. If this happened, then use sandpaper to clean the yellow surface.
• Warming Start from the wall that is least noticeable. If some defects arise, they can be corrected without prejudice to the appearance of the building. You can also be able to work out the procedure and technology of the process.
• If it happened so that the work must be left for the winter, protect the insulation. Be sure to apply the reinforcing layer, cover the primer with the content of quartz sand. To protect horizontal planes, set the windowals and all the necessary metal elements.
• Try not to interrupt the work on one wall, or at least complete the "wet" stages of the process. Especially if it concerns reinforcement and finishing.
• Applying the method of fastened heat insulation, use only specialized consumables. Choose a foam intended for external work. It has a certain density indicator - 25kg / m3. The insulation for the facade has different from the other type of thermal insulation material by vapor permeability and fire resistance. Installation solutions cannot be replaced by mixtures for ceramic tiles. The alkali-resistant grid must be specifically designed to perform external work. For fastening the insulation, buy only high-quality dowels. Specialists advise using all consumables of one manufacturer. Do not forget to read instructions for use.

Facade painting

After the drying is the finishing layer, you can spend the surface coloring. Use for this any paint that is designed to perform outdoor work. Convenient and economically apply a soft foam roller to work.

Performing building insulation in this way, you get the effect of the thermos. That is, in the cold time in the house there will always be warm.

How to determine the cost of materials on the insulation of facades of foam

Well, the most interesting for the late. Of course it is difficult to say how much the materials will cost you. It all depends on the insulation area and the region of residence.

As an example, I can give an approximate cost of the cost of the heat insulation of the wall of 50 mq. For Moscow and the Moscow region. Considering the costs of the insulation, glue, profiles, and TD, the average amount will be 1,100 dollars.

If you want to know the price, I advise you to take a newspaper with ads and call a couple. Sure prices will not greatly differ. For one and talk to experts to live, get more information and calculate the budget.

This article will help you carry out the insulation of the facade of foam with your own hands and avoid additional costs. Now you can cope with similar tasks.

Profiled timber - construction of houses, baths do it yourself. Russia Moscow.

Warming of the facade of foaming technology of thermal insulation walls of the house

In the article, learn how to warm the facade of foam, everything is described in detail the technology for independent insulation, assistance in choosing the thickness of the insulation for

How to insulate the facade of the house with a foam with their own hands - technology

Polyfoam (polystyrene foam) is the most common insulation that is used everywhere both for insulation of walls and for insulation of pipelines. Most often, the foam is used to perform work on the insulation of the facade of the house. There are several reasons for this, it is low cost, excellent thermal insulation characteristics and simple installation.

Technology of insulation of the facade of foam (expanded polystyrene)

Advantages of foam for insulation:

• zero hygroscopicity (there is no need to use vapor barrier films);
• durability (with good finishes);
• resistance to biological activity;
• stability of geometry under the influence of external conditions.

Among the disadvantages: flammable, toxicity when burning.

In general, many have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow the wall is insulated outside the hard insulation, but on how to insulate the facade of the foam correctly, you need to stop more. Knowledge of the features of the installation of thermal insulation material will help to perform work with your own hands and control the hired professionals.

Facade of Foam Foam Facade Technology

1. selection and calculation of the material;
2. preparation of the wall surface;
3. installation of the base profile;
4. installation of foam (slope and wall);
5. seaming seams;
6. reinforcement and plaster facade;
7. finishing work.

The order (diagram) of the insulation of the facade is shown in the photo.

Foaming facade insulation diagram (polystyrene foam)

Mounting technology will be identical for foam plastic, polystyrene and foam.

1 - Calculation of thermal insulation material

What you need to prepare for the insulation of the facade:

• polyfoam (2560-3200 rubles / cube) or polystyrene foam (PESEROPLEX) (3500-5000 rubles / cube). According to its properties, these are almost identical materials, but the polystyrene foam is more convenient at work at the expense of the junction of the "groove comb". At the same time it is much more expensive;

• decorative elements made of foam for finishing facade;

• primer. It is better to buy a universal, and the primer of deep penetration, for example, ceresite st-17 (555 rubles / 10 l);

• adhesive for foam (dry mix). For example, Kosbud (Poland, 390 rubles / 25 kg), Ceresit Art 34 (315 rubles / 25 kg), Ceresit St 83 (410 rubles / 25 kg);

Masters note that a more convenient means is a glue-foam. For example, AKFIX (Turkey, 390 rubles / ball.) Or Tytan (Poland, 410 rubles / ball.). Foam is more convenient in work, due to the lack of wet works and the loss of time on the exposure of the solution, as well as it is much less consumption.

• social profile. Performs the function of the support edge of the insulation system and ensures the evenness of laying sheets, without offset horizontally.

Profile has different width, For convenient installation of the insulation. For example, the price of Baukom profile (Germany) is a standard length of 2,500 mm.

It will take from the tool: a spatula (smooth and gear), hammer, perforator, grater for grouting, stationery knife.

Calculation of foam for insulation facade

The quality insulation of the facade of the house of the Polyfoam is possible only with the competent calculation of the amount and the main thickness of the material, taking into account its density and thermal conductivity of the wall (brick, foam block, gasoblock).

It is more difficult to choose the optimal density of foam - it varies from 15 to 35 kg / sq. Cuba. Note that the lower the density, the higher the heat-insulating properties, however, the material will be fragile. The masters note that for the insulation of the wall of a residential building you need to use a foam density with a density of 25 kg / mk. (Mark PSB-C-25) and 40-50 mm thick.

What foam flame is better to choose for insulation at home?

Data for choice provided in the table (for PSB-S-25 foam plastic)

It is worth noting, to redevelop the basement in the residential premises, it is necessary not only to insulate the foundation, but also the base, the floors on the ground.

Requirements for foam:

• geometry. The sheet should be perfectly smooth, permissible deviation along the length and width - 10 mm., By plane - 2 mm.;

• color. W. qualitative material white color. The yellowness indicates non-compliance with storage conditions;

• list integrity. For insulation, unfolded and deformed sheets are unsuitable.

2 Stage - Preparation of the facade to insulation

The surface of the wall to which the foam will be glued, should be clean, without protruding elements. Permissible height difference - 10-15 mm. All that above (protrusions, hillocks) are knocked down, all that is significantly lower (deepening, potholes, cracks), it is desirable to be neglected with a solution.

How to prepare walls for insulation foam:

• painted walls - paint is removed (only if it is with zero vapor permeability);

• chalk trail - primer used;

• splashing walls - stripping with a metal brush.

A primer is applied to the prepared wall. It will increase the adhesion of the surface and will avoid the appearance of fungus.

3 Stage - Installation of the base profile under insulation

The appointment of the base profile for the insulation systems of facades is to simplify the installation of the first row of foam sheets, and minimize the deviation of the row horizontally. In addition, according to the masters - it is the profile that is a good protection against rodents. The profile of dowels and mandatory verification level is attached.

Installation of the base profile under the insulation of the facade of foam

In order to ensure the correct installation of sheets and vertically, it is recommended to install suspensions (piping cords with weighting nut). Step of their installation 600-800 mm.

4 Stage - Installation of foam on the facade (slope and wall)

How to start the insulation of the facade?

The masters pay attention to the fact that novice users incorrectly choose the place to start work on the insulation of the facade. Usually they are taken over the wall, the virtue of the ease of work, toli due to its scale, while work should be started with the arrangement of the slope.

For insulation of slopes, you can use a thinner sheet of foam. When installing, he must be over the wall on the thickness of the insulation plus 15-20 mm depending on the surface of the wall surface. Excess material is then cut.

To ensure a beautiful and tight fit of the end of the foam to window frame It is recommended to use a window profile or a plate for plasterboard (plastic angle).

Often, the slopes are not distinguished by a flat surface, so the formed cavities should be filled with a solution, and large pieces of foam. It is the possibility of additionally to isolate cavities and causes the beginning of work with slopes.

Installation of foam plane on the wall plane begins from the bottom angle and is performed with a displacement of half the sheet, i.e. Sheets are stacked in a checker. Thus, cold bridges are excluded.

Before starting fastening the foam to the wall, it is desirable to prepare. Namely, spend on the surface of the sheet toothed roller or grater. This will increase its roughness and improve adhesion with glue.

How to glue foam on the facade?

The method of applying glue depends on the smoothness of the wall:

• with drops of no more than 10 mm. The glue is applied to the surface of the sheet using a toothed spatula;

• with differentials over 10 mm. The glue is applied in small "blots", because, the glue needs more, and the smeared sheet will be harder. When laying a sheet presses against a wall with minor displacements. So glue fills the hollow space under the sheet. The remnants of the adhesive are removed by the spatula. The peculiarity of this method of installation is that it is necessary to check the level of the installation of each sheet.

The second row of foam sheets is placed with the displacement of the previous one. When laying sheets in two layers, it is necessary to wait until the previous layer will completely dry.

Warming of the facade of foam - finishing of window slopes

Some disagreements between masters causes the need to use dowels-umbrellas, a plate dowel or dowels with a wide hat (fungi). Fastening the foam against the wall of the dowels prevents the disparation and disappearance of the sheet. Part of the specialists claims that glue is a strong fixer, and therefore the use of umbrellas is an excessive waste of resources and time. Their opponents argue that it is not worth neglected by this stage, because The umbrella will provide more reliable fixation.

Fasteners of plate dowels are possible only after the glue is completely frozen. Usually it takes 1-2 days depending on the weather.

There are two ways of fastening foam:

• fastening in the middle and in the corners. In this case, 5 dowels of umbrellas are used for each sheet. And their total consumption is calculated based on the number of sheets. At the same time, parts of the sheets are also attached at least three umbrellas;

• fastening in the middle and adjacent edges or corners. This method saves, reducing the number of umbrellas. The method is more preferable because several sheets are fixed simultaneously. But this method is suitable only for perfectly laid foam sheets that do not need to be adjusted in height after mounting on the wall.

Scheme of fastening places of foaming dowels

One of the methods for fastening the foam of umbrellas is to blame a dowel into the material and the subsequent sealing of the installation site by a foam plug. Due to the complexity, this method is rarely used.

How to fix foam on the wall using a dowel-umbrella with a hidden method

5 Stage - sealing seams between foam

Do not forget that the geometry of the foam sheet sometimes leaves much to be desired, and this inevitably leads to the appearance of slots between sheets. Even small gaps are substantial heat loss. Therefore, after laying foam sheets, it is necessary to ensure sealing (losing the seams).

How and how to close the seams between the foam?

The procedure for performing work differs depending on the thickness of the seam:

• to fill large seams, it is advisable to use the trimming of foam, which are placed in the gap. Please note the large seams should not be filled with a solution, because His thermal conductivity is much higher than the polyfoam. As a result, a lot of heat will continue through the seam;

• to fill thin seams, a mounting foam is used, which blends in the seam, and its surplus is cut after frozen. As a result, the so-called "warm seam" is obtained.

How and what to close the seams between the foam

Note. The protruding parts of the foam is erased by a rigid grater.

6 Stage - reinforcement of foam mesh and finishing plaster

In principle, facing the facade of foam at this stage is completed. But unprotected insulation, not long to perform the functions of the heat insulator effectively. The fact is that the foam is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet and is not very resistant to mechanical damage, which means it needs to be protected.

The protective material is plaster. So that she went well and kept on a smooth sheet surface, a reinforced grid is used. It is not necessary to save on it, because the insulation technology of the facade of foam plastic provides for the mandatory use of the reinforcing grid.

Reinforcement foam mesh - video

How to reinforce the foam?

• neighboring mesh web mesh mounted in 70-100 mm.;

• the grid should be fixed so as to avoid the appearance of folds (lines the net with hands);

• mesh is literally interpreted into the solution;

• installation of the grid is performed quickly, because The glue quickly freezes and secures the grid to the foam;

• the place of fastening the mesh near the window and doorways is additionally rejected by grid slices. Slices are mounted in the corners of the openings, slopes and prevent the appearance of cracks;

Reinforcement of foams around windows and doors

• corners of the house and window openings are separated by a special plastic corner with a grid. The grid is placed on the adjacent web. An alternative can serve as a perforated aluminum corner, but it does not work well with its function of protection of the angle of deformation and is more complicated in the installation. Aligns the corner with the rule or corner spatula.

How to reinforce the foam around window and doorways

7 Stage - Painting of the facade of the house after insulation of foam

After mounting on the polymer mesh foam, another layer of adhesive mixture is applied. The optimal glue thickness is 3 mm., And the destination is to hide the irregularities and give the surface to the smooth view, thus prepared it, thus to staining.

If the second decorative layer was not very smooth, it can be aligned with a grater. The process is time consuming, but allows you to get a beautiful smooth surface.

Painting the facade after insulation of the foam is aimed at giving a gray building more aesthetic species.

For staining the facade, any paint is suitable, which is designed to perform external work. The paint is applied with a spray gun or a soft foam roller.

It is worth noting that painting with special facade paints creates a film on the surface of plaster, and ensures the achievement of the "thermos effect", making the house more sealed and, accordingly, warmer.

Often users refuse to staining and instead of the second layer of adhesive solution are applied to the facade of decorative plaster of the type of cored or lamb.

Technology of application of the plaster "Coroed" - video

Application of decorative plaster "lameas" - video

How to insulate the facade of foam with their own hands - video

The cost of insulation of the facade of foam (polystyrene foam)

As an additional stimulus, perform the facade insulation of the foam independently we give rates for work on thermal insulation for 1 m2.

The estimated cost of works depends on the type of material, the volume of work, the quality of the surface and the complexity of the wall configuration, the velocity of the work, the time of work (season of the year).

It is easier to calculate how much the insulation of the meter of the square is. According to users, the price of materials approximately equals the cost of the work performed. This season (2016), insulation, the insulation of foam turnkey costs about 2000-2500 rubles. Behind M.KV

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The insulation of the facade of foam, expanded by polystyrene - technology, how to insulate the walls of the house with their own hands photo-video

The technology of the insulation of the facade of the house is a foam (expanded polystyrene) with their own hands. Step-by-step instruction, choice and calculation of the insulation, installation of foam, reinforcement, plaster and painting of insulated walls

Warming of facades of foam

Many dacms over time begin to face the problem of rapid drainage of the house. The solution to the problem can be the insulation of the facades of foam, which you can produce yourself, why not try and not save let it, if not time, but money? Your attention is a detailed step-by-step instruction With photos and video about how to insulate the house outside the foam.

In order for the cover of the facade of the house to be high-quality and served not one decade, it is necessary to observe the technology that, fortunately, is not at all difficult. First you need to clean the surface with which you will work: it should be smooth, smooth, clean and most importantly - dry.

It is also important to use a high-quality proven adhesive solution, otherwise even dry and smooth wall will not be able to hold foam plates.

Step-by-step instruction

Step number 1: Apply adhesive mortar to foam

No need to apply glue to the entire hook surface plate. Using a spatula, apply a few "large spoons" of the solution in the middle and make the "frame" along the edges (as shown in the photo).

Step # 2: Installation of polystyrene foam on the facade of the building

It is important to know that before installing the first plate of foam on the entire perimeter of the facade, it is necessary to establish a base profile, which will be support for the first row of plates and which will help in strengthening the corners.

When installing the profile, use the construction level.

Step # 3: Additional Support

The insulation technology of the facade house of the house foam foam focuses on the fact that one adhesion is not enough as the adhesive material to call the wall from the foam strong and reliable. In addition to glue, it is necessary to bind the plates with special dowels (umbrellas). It is necessary to have them at the same distance, approximately a meter from each other.

Tip: The first dowel is better located in the middle of the slab, while others around the edges. Usually 5-6 dowels per 1 square meters. m.

Remember, the strengthening of the design of the dowels is made after 24 hours after mounting the plates.

Step No. 4: Plaster

Warming at home outside implies creating a simple, but presentable design, so take care that at this stage you have a decorative layer at hand, in our case, this is a decorative tile. You can also apply plaster, and after painting already insulated facade in any color that select.

Step number 5: Installation of decorative tiles

On this, the insulation of the facade of the foam is not finished with his own hands. Using a wide spatula, apply a glue solution on already installed plates. It is important to be applied horizontally - right to left or vice versa. In turn, apply a layer of the same adhesive solution on each tile, then press each of them to the prepared stove, using the level to achieve an ideally smooth finish surface.

Watch that the thickness of the seams between adjacent tiles was the same. If your hand is not packed, you can use special crosses plastic parts - remote crossings. It remains to give glue to froze, after which the insulation and the wall of the house will become a monolithic design.

Now the insulation of the house is a foam with her own hands for you. For clarity below you can get acquainted with the video.

Warming of facades of foam: photo, video instruction

How to insulate the facade of foam? See photo and video Instructions for the insulation of the facade of the house outside the foam. What is the insulation technology of the facade of the building expanded polystyrene? Here you will find information about the insulation of the facade of foam with your own hands.

Wall insulation with a foam with its own hands - detailed instructions

After reading this article, you can find out how simpler and faster insulate your home outside. It addressed in detail all stages of work on thermal insulation, as well as tips on the choice necessary material. In particular, we will look at how to warp the walls of foam with their own hands. It will cost inexpensively, and the effect will give very tangible. Let's tell you in detail about this method.

Cooking the surface of the walls

So that the thermal insulation is high-quality and served for a long time, it is necessary to prepare a well-insulated surface. This process is sufficiently long, and there will be a lot of forces to attach. But the result is the result of the strength and time.

If you are warming up a new home, then some moments do not need to perform.

#one. The first thing will have to be removed from the outer walls everything that can interfere with the work. These are drainage pipes, ventilation grids, air conditioners, lamps with spotlights and wires. If a brick house An old enough, then on its facade can be decorations, framing eaves and windows. They will have to donate, neatly knocking down.

# 2. In the event that there are plastering on the walls, check it on strength - cleaned surface. All irregularities and slopes are tested using a plumb, rules or cord sufficient length. All errors will be marked with a chalk, so as not to miss a single flaw. As a rule, when checking it turns out that the walls are far from ideal. They are not only not very smooth, but also the plaster in some plastered on "honest words." Do not care for insulation, finding these shortcomings. First, remove these pieces of plaster, and then work with a chisel, knocking down concrete glances and an excess solution between bricks.

# 3. If the facade was painted with oil paint, then it cannot remain on it. In this case, the paint will have to handle. Because of it decreases the adhesive properties of the surface. Well, but about the fact that molding mold fungus, fat and rust, as well as a salt flare, perhaps, know everything.

#four. If there are quite large irregularities and cracks on the walls (more than 2 millimeters), they must be primed. To do this, use the primer of deep penetration, the gun to the special brush called the McList. It will make this work faster and more careful. When the primer will dry, it is possible to apply cement putty for outdoor work and speck the cracks.

#five. In the event that irregularities are very large - more than 1.5 centimeters - also first stuffed them. And then we put the beacons for which the plaster is applied.

# 6. Walls are covered with primer bricks once, from cellular concrete 2 times. Conduct can be covered with a large brush or roller.

Sometimes part of the communications leave on the wall surface, closing them with insulation. In order not to damage them, scoring a dowel for fastening expanded polystyrene, it is necessary to make a detailed plan for their location.

Fresh starting profile

Having studied the project, we calculate the location of the lower boundary of the walls, which should be insulated with foam. Now take the hydraulic level, measuring this border on all external and inner corners at home. We stretch through these points cord. For this line, we have to install the starting profile, which will hold the lower row of the plates of the heat insulating material. Otherwise, until the glue is dry, the plates can move.

The size of the starting plank is chosen according to the width of our heat insulator. Confirm her sixmillimeter dowel-nails, having them every 30 or 35 centimeters. The driving element for dowels serve clogged nails for which the washers should be worn. The joints of the starting plank at the corners of the house are made by or oblique cut, or using an angular connector. So that the temperature fluctuations do not deform the design, plastic connecting elements on the ends between the profiles of the base. With the interior of the profiles of the Vangest is unacceptable.

For the safety net, check the level of fixing the starting profile.

Printed insulation

We mix the glue

So that the glue too thickened and not dry, it should be all used for an hour and a half - two. So we do the desired amount of adhesive mixture right on the spot. To do this, we take a large plastic bucket and pour water into it. Then slowly raw in it the adhesive composition. In order not to do any lumps, we put on a drill to the nozzle mixer, we turn it on small speed and stir the mixture until no lump remains. We are waiting for 5 minutes to swell the glue, then for 2 minutes turn on the drill and mix. If after a while glue thickened a little, it is necessary to mix it again without adding it to water.

Apply the adhesive composition on plates of foam

According to the technology of insulation of walls by foam outside, apply glue to the insulation can different ways. It all depends on how smooth walls have our home.

Method 1 - It is used when the surface drops reach 1.5 centimeters. In this case, we applix the adhesive mixture on all sides of the foam plate, retreating from the edge of 2 centimeters. The same thickness (2 centimeters) should be a layer of glue. So that the plates do not lag behind in the central part of the stove, in this place (0.5 square meter) 5 - 7 times evenly put glue beams with a diameter of about 10 centimeters.

An example of applying glue.

Method 2. - Used when the irregularities of the walls are less than 1 centimeter. Along the perimeter of the plates, as well as in their central part, we apply glue bands with a width of 3 to 4 centimeters. As a result, the adhesive should be covered with half to 60% of the surface. When the insulation is pressed against the wall, the glue will be distributed and the entire space will take.

Important: In order to avoid air traffic jams, never make glue bands with solid. They must have a species of dotted.

Method 3. - It is applied when the walls are almost even, and errors are not more than 5 millimeters. In this case, arming with a special gear spatula, applying glue to all the base plates. Comb drying size - centimeter for centimeter.

Mounting rules insulation on the wall

After the glue is applied, it is impossible to slow. Within 20 minutes, all plates are glued to the place. First, we apply the plates of polystyrene foam, slightly shocking them away from the place where they need to be glued. This distance should be 2 - 3 centimeters. Then with the help of the construction rule or half-line, the insulation is pressed to neighboring plates. The glue that will perform from the inside of the foam and in the corners, you must immediately remove.

Apply a sheet with a displacement and press to the neighbor.

The correct installation of each foam plate is tested using a level. We also use control cords and rule, determining all deviations from the plane.

Each sheet check the level.

The plates must be laid tight, at a distance of no more than 2 millimeters from each other. In the event of a greater width of them, they must be embedded. For this, they take either construction foam, or long and narrow pieces of foam. There should be no glue in the seams, and no more than 3 millimeters are allowed in the thickness of the joints.

IMPORTANT: If shifting the plates until the glue froze, they can stick badly. Therefore, when there is a need to correct some shortcomings, it is better to remove the slab. Having a layer of the adhesive mixture from it, we smear fresh glue and put the sheet in place.

When mounting the insulation, we work below up, ranging from the base profile. Special attention is paid to the lowest row of plates, which will be determining. The easiest way to do is: put the first and last slabs, and between them stretch the cord, attaching it to the top of the sheets. On this cord and exhibit the rest foam plates. The next row lay out with the displacement of the joints. It must be at least 20 centimeters. However, it is even better to put the ranks of the insulation in a checker, making a shift in half the plates.

The joints of the foam should be blocked, for this we are glued with the displacement.

Laying the plates, carefully look at their joints correlate with openings for windows and doors. It is impossible to pass on one vertical line with slopes. Optimally, if the junction passes or under the opening, or above it. At the same time, the technology of insulation of facades by foam provides that the displacement value should be at least 20 centimeters.

It also happens this option: the wall is made of one material, and then a part is attached from another material. For example, brick, osp or foam concrete are connected. The joint of two adjacent plates of the insulation should be located at least 10 centimeters from the boundaries of these materials. And if the walls have protrusions or recesses, which should be insulated, then these places are overlapped with thermal insulator not less than 10 centimeters.

At the corners of the house, both inside and outside, the plates are connected by the teeth, i.e. with dressing. To the vertical, a long seam, causing cracks, from the insulation is required to enter the adjacent wall. At the corners and on the slopes, the plate foam plates are put with a margin that should allow dressing. As soon as the glue on the corner grabs, sticking out the stoves should be cut off. To cut the foam gently, take a thin punch with frequent teeth or a wide knife. It is necessary to cut under a ruler or a metal square.

In the corners, the plates should be removed between themselves.

In case of insulation of slopes, we mount the sheets of the insulation in principle to the window and doorways. To do this, you will need a polyurethane foam sealing tape or an adjoint profile. If the tape is used, then it is glued directly on the door frame. When the insulation is adjacent to it, it is squeezed, becoming thinner by about a third. The warming window, located on the facade, will plant the insulation on its frame on 2 centimeters, no less. Previously become a polyurethane ribbon the entire window opening.

In the case of a deformation seam on the wall at the location of the insulation, make a slit size from 1 to 1.2 centimeters. Insert the foamed polyethylene harness to this gap with an effort, squeezing it by a third.

Dowels fix insulation

When the glue dries (usually it occurs after 3), you can begin the final fastening of the insulation. For this apply elastic plastic dowels With a wide perforated hats in the form of an umbrella. They are recorded by a clogged nail or screwing the pins. Nails can be metallic or plastic. To prevent cold bridges, it is better to choose a variant with plastic nails. The length of the dowel determines the thickness of the thermal insulator and the material from which the walls are made. The dowel must enter the concrete for 5 centimeters, in a brick - 9 centimeters, and for cellular blocks - 12 centimeters.

Important: Dowels having an inside of a metal rod, not to use. This is fraught with the appearance of cold bridges.

Dowels fix in all corners of the plate, as well as in the center. 1 square meter comes from 6 to 8 dowels. Next to the slopes of the doors and windows, on the corners and near the base fastener will need more. From the edges of the plates they must retreat on 20 centimeters. How many specifically additional dowels take, and at what distance from each other they are fixed, depends on several factors. This, in particular, the size of the heat insulator sheets, the size of the house, the strength of the wind and the quality of the dowels.

Before using fasteners, we do holes for it using a perforator.

The depth of drilling must be 1 or 1.5 centimeters more than a dowel length.

Cleaning the hole from dust, scoring spacer nails with a rubber hammer. If not nails are used, but pins, they screw them with a screwdriver. Hats dowels should not stick hard over the plane of the insulation. This distance can be no more than a millimeter.

Perhaps you will be pleased with the following materials:

Do not forget that it is necessary to observe the perpendicularity of the fastener relative to the surface of the walls. From time to time, we check how well the dowel is holding, carefully trying to tear them off.

We deploy the reinforcing layer

Installation of auxiliary reinforcing grid

In order not to appear cracks, in the corners of windows of windows and doors, it is necessary to glue pieces of the reinforcing mesh of 20 to 30 centimeters into these places. This reinforcing mesh is mounted in the same way as the main layer for reinforcement.

When the facades are insulated with foam at the bottom, up to a two-meter height, it is necessary to lay an additional layer of reinforcing grid. He will protect the wall of destruction.

Installation of perforated corners

To enhance the corners of the house, as well as the slopes and elements of the decor, apply corners with perforation. They are made of plastic or aluminum, and at the edges they have a piece of reinforcing grid. To secure the corners, they are smeared with glue (including and grid), and then pressed the spatula to the insulation. Pre-corner cut. Glue, which will perform through the grid and perforation holes, must be smoothed. In the corners, the profiles connect close to each other, cutting off the grid and shelves at an angle of 45 degrees.

Installation of the main reinforcing layer

When the additional layer is driving, and all the corners will be securely secured, you can enjoy the main layer of reinforcement. This uses a special facade mesh made of fiberglass. It is resistant to alkalis and is not stretched. A strip of such a grid of 5 centimeters width can withstand the load to 1.25 kilonutyton.

To glue this mesh and protect thermal insulation, a special solution is used. It has no such composition as the adhesive mixture, but it is preparing approximately the same.

Before carrying out reinforcement, the plates of the foam must be seized. This will allow smooth irregularities in the places of the insulation plates. Spin the foam of grater and large sandpaper. After that, we clean the surface of the insulation and apply a solution with a layer of 2 millimeters.

The reinforcing grid is cut into pieces, the size of which corresponds to the height of the wall. The solution is applied to the surface of the walls vertically layer equal to the width of the grid. To do this, use a sixrider or a metal grater. Surplus glue is conveniently removed by a toothed spatula to form grooves. Then we apply the mesh to the wall, beating it in the solution and presses the grater or smooth spatula.

After reclamation, the grid should not be visible on the surface.

Smoothing the mesh gently, from the middle to the edges. Surplus glue distribute on the wall plane.

IMPORTANT: I \u200b\u200bdo not pull the grid strongly, we do not press the thermal insulation. Her place is in the middle between the wall and insulation.

As soon as the grid is glued, we do not wait for the drying of the solution and we apply another layer, but we leave the free edge of 10 cm. The thickness is the same as the previous one, 2 millimeters. On the free edge of a width of 10 centimeters we put the second mesh strip. The top layer of the solution must completely close the grid, it should not look out of it. After that, all of the above actions are repeated from the second mesh strip. Strips must overlap each other by 10 centimeters.

We are waiting for tomorrow, and the next morning you can already close the putty irregularity. Nothing terrible that she has not yet dried completely. But if irregularities are large enough, you will have to wait for drying, and then additionally apply the glue layer.

Useful tips on the thermal insulation of the outer walls by foam

#one. Remember that the insulation of walls outside the foam is needed to produce at a plus temperature, not lower than 5 degrees and not higher than 25 degrees. Air humidity can be up to 80 percent. It is not allowed to expose solar irradiation, as well as leave it in the rain and wind. This applies to all stages of work.

# 2. With the help of strong frames or scaffolding, it should be possible to get to any part of the wall, as well as to the side surfaces. To make it convenient to work, the forests are mounted in 20 or 30 centimeters from the walls.

# 3. We close the door and windows with a plastic film, securing it with a painting tape. Brackets, communications passing outside the building should also be closed. Distribution and porch protect the cardboard or the same film. After painting works are performed, we remove the scotch.

#four. If the foam insulation on the wall was held for a long time without reinforcement, he would yellow and starts to "dust." This yelloweement should be written with the emotion skirt.

#five. If experience is not enough, start working from the wall that least noticeable. Or you can start to warm the simplest surface. Gradually, technology will be worked out.

# 6. In the event that the insulation has to be suspended for winter time, refer to the installation of reinforcing layers. Parapets and squeaks will be securely closed, if you set special protective elements from metal. Do not forget about the windows lowers.

# 7. When planning work, try to make continuous all the "wet" stages of work on one wall. This is especially true for reinforcement and finishing.

For such a method of insulation, only suitable materials must be applied. It is necessary to take polystyrene foam, which has a density of at least 25 kilograms per cubic meter. Never aluminum neither it nor the grid for reinforcing with tiled glue. Use only special solutions, and then the insulation of the outer walls by foam will last for a long time bring the desired result.

How to insulate the facade of foam

To reduce heating costs, many household owners and apartments are thinking about insulation. One of the possible options is the insulation of the facade of foam (PPS or EPPS). The work is not the simplest, but you can cope with your own hands. It is important to know technology. It is detailed in detail, in detail and tell on.

Proper insulation of the facade of foam gives good results

PPS or EPPS (foam or extruded polystyrene foam)

The insulation of the facade of foam begins with the solution of the question: what is still better to use, foam (PPP) or extruded polystyrene foam (EPPS). Both and the other material are made from one source substance (polystyrene), but they are used by various technologies. Going into the subtleties of the processes is hardly worth it, it is important to know the main differences between these two materials. So, if briefly:

• Polyfoam is softer, absorbs moisture, insects, rodents like it. With good characteristics, it has a small cost.
• Epps - more rigid and dense, water practically does not absorb, it does not like insects and rodents. The main drawback is a high price. In the case of insulation of walls outside, there is another minus - its pre-processing is necessary (it is necessary to scratch the surface), and this is time.

There are still some plus Epps - usually plates are made with a quarter, that is, direct junctions will be much smaller with insulation, and it means that the cold bridges will be much smaller. The choice is not easy, especially if you consider that the difference in price is solid - 2 times. To make it easier to decide, several positions at EPPS prices and PPS are shown in the table.

Deciding with the type of material, you can start mounting.

Preparatory work

The insulation of the facade of foam begins with the preparation of the walls. Immediately let's say when it is better to start work - in a warm period of time. But the most important indicator is the moisture of the walls. They should be dry. After the rain it is desirable to wait a week dry, preferably - windy, weather. After that, you can start.

Preparation of outdoor walls

Preparation for the insulation of the facade of the foam begins with the purification of everything that peeling and falls off. If the walls were covered with paint, it is removed, lime - believes. If there are swollen places plaster or tile, they are frown. There should be only what keeps firmly.

Clear everything that may fall

Then comes the time of alignment of the walls. Very good if the insulation plates will lie on the wall with the entire surface, without voids. But such walls are rather an exception than the rule, because the irregularities of about 1 cm per square meter are permissible. Large in depth / height protrusions and pit should be aligned - fill the plastering solution (pre-trunking) or to rush. The greater the surface will be, the easier it will be work.

Primer or not

It is not necessary to primitive only those walls by spending a hand on which the palm remains clean. If there are white traces, pieces of plaster, sand, etc., better to progress. This will ensure the best glue contact with the wall. The operation takes a little time, it is carried out simply, money requires a little, and the benefit of it is large. So if the insulation of the facade of the foam or Epps make "for themselves", it is better to bust.

Primer process is simple, but very useful

The primer comes with any, for facade works. Normal firms - Ceresit, Master, Craisel, Tokan, Ecomix. The soil is diluted or not - depending on the form of release and instructions, applied with a brush or from a sprayer. The sprayer is faster and easier, and the brush is better.

Preparation of EPPS

If we decided to make insulation of walls outside the polystyrene foam (EPPS), its surface must be made not as smooth. Polyfoam has a more loose structure and does not need preliminary preparation. On the surface of the Epps, it is necessary to make scratches, otherwise it falls off from the glue.

EPPS Preparation Tools

Take a sicky roller, which is treated with plasterboard, and they rolled well in all directions. The second way is to take a brush with metal bristle and make it a groove. Soften methods for work. Work is not important, but time requires a lot. It is necessary to make it before starting the installation of polystyrene foam on the walls. If the insulation laying is in two layers, it is necessary to process sheets for both layers.

Finishing windowsill, slopes, low

All elements are window sills, slopes and a drop (drip) better to install before the installation of the insulation on the walls. When installing, it is necessary to remember that you still have a solid thickness of the insulation + finish. If the window sills and slopes have already been installed, they will have to be replaced - they will be too short. So that everything looked organically and easily snapped with insulating pie, the elements must have the following dimensions:

• The windowsill must be per plane of the wall at 3-4 cm (no longer needed). If the thickness of the insulation is 60 mm, you will need a windowsill depth 100-110 mm (60 mm insulation, 10 mm finish finish, 30-40 mm protrusion). When installing the window sill, it is necessary to fill in all empties. It is possible to lay the plates of thermal insulation, the gaps fill in the mounting foam and to put the windowsill, drive it with something heavy and leave for 3-4 hours.

The insulation of the facade of foam begins with slopes

Installing low tip (drip)

As you can see, preparatory work before the insulation of the facade of the foam (polystyrene) also require time. They are not complicated, but significantly affects the general result.

Foam Mounting Technology on Wall

For a normal result, the foam on the wall is first glued, then nailed. That's the way, and not otherwise. Glue begin to bottom, as a rule, from the left corner. If the house is insulated with a foam, then the first row is based on the established tide, if improving thermal insulation in an apartment building, nourished the starting bar. Without it, the likelihood is that the foam will crawl down.

Materials and tools

For the stickers of the foam on the walls, two spatula will be needed. One width of about 100 mm, the second 180-200 mm. The glue of the tank is gaining narrow, widely apply it to the walls. Even for trimming the material it may be necessary to be saw with a cannut with a small tooth. From the tools at this stage everything. We still need glue. It requires a special, on the bag should be written "for polystyrene plates" or something similar. There are two varieties of such adhesion:

• Universal composition for polystyrene and subsequent finish of the facade (grid sticking and leveling layer).
• The composition is only for gluing polystyrene on the walls. Universal required for other layers.

If you approach the question from the point of view of economic, it is more profitable to buy two different compositions - universal is decently more expensive. And glue can make a number of operations:

• glue polystyrene to the wall and on the slopes;
• mix the joints of the insulation;
• melt fastening fungi;

For gluing polystyrene on the walls need special glue

The list of works for which universal glue is needed:

• gluing the grid on the corners (and slopes too) and the walls;
• applying the leveling layer.

The consumption of both compositions is about the same and is 4-6 kg per square meter. Consumption may be less if the walls are initially smooth and a smaller layer of glue is required (it is not necessary to level the depressions). Consumption on the leveling layer (after gluing the grid) depends on how far the polystyrene is fixed, sticking out or not its corners.

For additional fixation of polystyrene to the wall need fungi

For the second stage - fastening polystyrene on the walls - we need fungi. It is a special shape dowel with a large plastic hat and a long leg. Steel or plastic dowel-nails are inserted into the dowel. When the facade is insulated with polystyrene, it is better to use plastic. They do not spend cold, are not subject to corrosion, it is less, and the load is a large warmed facade does not create.

To install fungi, you will need a drill and hammer. To apply a grid and the leveling layer, you will need a wide spatula - 300-350 mm or even more. For grinding the leveling layer, we need a plastic grater and sandpaper with grain 400-500.

Polystyrene gluing technique

The glue is indulge in the manufacturer's guidelines (stir a drill with a nozzle or mixer). It is more convenient to work when it is slightly curd than it turns out if you adhere to the recommendations. Therefore, we do not add water a little less, and there look at how convenient work.

If the wall is uneven, we put the glue on the wall. It is so easier to adjust the unevenness - put more in the excavation and less on the humps. If there is too much humps left to reduce glue consumption, you can make a recess in the foam. With Epps, such a focus will not pass.

Apply the glue about so, but only on the walls, and not on the foam

Putting a solution with "cakes" to 9-10 over the area, and also make a roller (you can not solid) approximately around the perimeter of the plate, retreating 3-4 cm from the edge. The sizes of the pellets are not necessarily the same. It is important only to align the surface. Having placed glue, we apply the foam, appreciate, clap the palm (not much so as not to minimize). The sausages, unfolded around the edges, can get out of seams or "swim" under other sheets. What is covered with other sheets is normal and even well, it will be more strongly held. But the outstretched glue is better to pick up. Then there will be less alignment.

There is a second technique - impose glue on foam plastic, align it with a comb (gear spatula) and so glued. But this method is only suitable on smooth facades without drops.

If the wall is smooth, we apply a solid smooth layer on the foam

When laying a second row, the sheets are placed so that the seams are not solid (with a displacement, such as brickwork). All subsequent rows also follow the seams do not coincide. The glued on the facade of the foam leave for 3 days - about so much the glue dries. In the meantime, we glue it in the second plot.

A few words about how it is more convenient to glue foam on the facade and what kind of site. If a private house is insulated with foam, the work area is significant, as well as height. Part of the work will be done from the ground, the part will have to be carried out with dismisses. To carry less than them, it is more convenient to carry out work areas. One plot is fully made - from the coaling of foam to the leveling layer, go to the next. In this order of work there is another plus: less polystyrene remains open (it reacts poorly to ultraviolet).

Break the house on the plots with different stages of work

Nail foam (EPPS)

So, after the glue is drying (3 days after it is glued) we take plastic fungi (those that are more expensive, they are tough and well clogged). Their length depends on the thickness of the insulation. To her (thickness) it is necessary to add 4-5 cm to which the fungus must enter the wall. If the foam in your 50 mm layer, then the fungi should not be shorter than 9-10 cm.

Fungi should be 4-5 cm to enter the wall. In the picture is made inaccuracy - the grid passes over the fungus

One plate requires 5-6 fungi. In the selected places, drill holes (drill 10 mm) by 2-3 cm deeper than the length of the feet of fungus. If you do the holes in short, they are clogged with dust of the material and are not inserted completely. The location of fungi is one in the center of the plate and several in the fields of joints. This position allows you to feed the foam, align the wall at the same time (tighten the coal to the desired position).

The scheme of the arrangement of fungi when insulating the facade of foam

In the drilled hole is inserted, then droves with a hammer, fungus. His hat should lie tightly on the insulation. If not lying, remove, deepen the hole. Sometimes after a number of mushrooms installed fungi, they cease to be clogged. So the burred buried - it became less in diameter - and it's time to change it.

Plastic dowels score in fungi

They clog fungi so that the hat is slightly recessed in the foam - left somewhere on 1 mm. Then the flow of glue on the leveling layer will be less. With foaming, it is simple to score with polystyrene foam (EPPS) more difficult.

If the layers of the insulation are two

If the required heater thickness is greater than 50 mm, but less than 100 mm, lay two layers. In this case, one layer is glued, as described above, the sheets of the second are placed so that they do not coincide with the joints of the first. When the second layer is sticker, it is more convenient to apply glue onto a sheet, and not on the wall. The joints of the first can not be pushed and not married - they will blocked.

If there is time, before applying the second layer it is desirable to wait until the first dry. If there is no such possibility, you can glue the second immediately, but no more than 2 m, otherwise sheets can move.

Seams of the first and second layer should not coincide

Snake foam mushrooms begin after drying glue (the same 3 days). Only not mistaken the calculation of the length of the fungus - the overall thickness of the insulation + 1 cm on glue + 4-5 cm into the wall. The depth of the opening is another 2-3 cm more, the diameter of the same is 10 mm. When the foam is nailed to the facade, you can move on.

Sealing joints and fungi

First, align the facade of the facade, plastic-plastic. It often turns out that the edges of the polyfoam are sticking out somewhere. They can be cut off the stationery (bulk) knife. There are still special grabs for foam. They are comfortable to smooth the surface. With Epps, it is also possible to try to do, but only a knife, and it cuts badly. The work takes a lot of time, but it is worth spending time - this will reduce the consumption of expensive compositions for subsequent layers of finishes.

Then, to eliminate cold air from the stoves, the seams are watched. Take the same composition on the spatula, which glued on the facade of the foam, fill the seams. If there are seams more than 3 mm, they lay the narrow strip of the insulation, then we wash the glue. You can fill the seam by mounting foam. We leave it for 4-5 hours, then the excess is cut off with a knife and above the glue. Hats fungi are recessed, they are also smeared, aligning with the main surface.

Loaded seams of foamflast

When grouting seams and hats, we try to make the surface smooth - the glue should not perform. If I looked around somewhere, after drying, we take the grater, fasten the sandpaper (grain 400-500) and align. Only it is necessary to wait for a complete drying - hitting the wet glue, the emery is instantly clogged, it only needs to be changed (the grid is not suitable for this work).

Reinforcement and plaster foam

Sometimes the insulation of the facade of the foam must be stretched for two seasons - leave to be turned off at some stage. No harm for materials can be left only after applying the leveling layer. Just attached foam (EPPS) cannot be left. It is recommended even packed in packs to keep in the room, and not on the street. So it is possible to interrupt only after plaster.

Sticker reinforcing mesh on corners

The grid uses the facade, for external work (internal from the glue is simply scattered). Density 140-160 gr / sq. m. First glue the corners. The angles are reinforced by everything - and outdoor, and internal and slopes. Important! From now on, it is necessary to use a universal composition, and not the one on which foam glue. The glue is bred a little fat than indicated in the instructions - it should be good to stick on the soldier, but it is easy to pushed through the grid.

For reinforcement, you can use a finished angle with a mesh, you can cut the rull strips (30 cm wide) and glue them. It is easier to work with a finished angle, cheaper - with a piece of grid. If you do from the roll, cutting the strips across the roll, it turns out pieces of meter length. Fold them along in half and well bend melted with a spatula. It is necessary to fold so that the edges of the grid wock inside (she was in the roll). If it turns out on the contrary - they will stick out of the glue layer, it will work hard.

Corner reinforcement grid

In any case, the work is almost the same. An angle is applied on two sides strip of solution 6-7 cm wide, 2-3 mm thick. If the glue is not the finished angle, and the bent mesh stripes, the length of the area filled with a solution should be 5-7 cm into the sliced \u200b\u200bpiece of the sliced \u200b\u200bpiece (93-95 cm).

The angle or a piece of a bent mesh is assigned from above. Holding the spatula on the grid, it is slightly pressed into the glue. Movement "Christmas tree" - top-down and to the side.

Approximately half of the mesh on the sides remains without glue. It is normal - it will be easier to stick it to the reinforcement of foam in the wall plane. Also without glue remains a band at the top, if glue from pieces. Sticking the next piece above, apply glue directly to this "empty" grid, cover top with the next segment. So the joint is the same thickness as the entire angle.

When forming an angle, we try to make it smooth. If not obtained by a conventional spatula, you can take an angular (in the photo at the top). It will be easy - just with one push to lead from above-down.

Reinforcement

Polyfoam and EPPS are enhanced by applying a layer of plastic grid, which is pressed into the glue composition (universal). The procedure for such:

• They apply on the wall with a spatula (width of at least 350 mm) layer of glue (universal composition). In the width of the band by 5-7 cm already grid (the grid is usually 100 cm in width).
• Roll over the grid from above-down, so that 5-7 cm from one edge were free from glue.
• Pass the spatula on the grid, pressing it into the glue. Try the surface to do smooth.

The grid is rolled into the laid layer of glue, pressed the spatula into it.

It can be seen that part of the grid remains without a solution

The glued grid is left to dry. There should be half a day for a minimum, but better - a day. After you take a grater with a sandpaper and align all irregularities.

Foam plaster (applying the leveling layer)

The technique of applying plaster on the foam is no different from the standard (about the plaster walls, see here). Determine the thickness of the leveling layer based on the result of the previous work. If the previous layer was applied exactly, aligning can be very thin - several millimeters.

There is only a feature - the mixture should be slightly liquid. Even a little fat than when applying the grid. It is easier to align such a consistency.

The applied leveling layer is left to dry. Time depends on the temperature and thickness of the layer. Wait until it dry completely, otherwise the emery will throw. His, by the way, at this stage it is better to use a shabby - even more surface. Decent scratches remain from the new. It is critical if you then plan the facade to just paint, and under the application of decorative plaster, you can work new.

At this, the insulation of the facade of foam is over. Next - finishing work. What they will - choose to you.

All stages are demonstrated in the video. There is only one error: when the grid is sticker, it rolls on the bed with a layer of glue, and not on a dry wall. With such technology as in the video, the likelihood is that all finishing will fall together with the grid.

Warming of the facade of foam with its own hands: technology, photo, video

It is important to make the insulation of the facade of the foam right. Then the finish will stand for years, and in the house there will be warmth. Detailed description Technologies and all stages of work - in the article.

outdoor walls - one of the most effective ways Reducing the power consumption of residential and industrial buildings. In addition to energy-saving functions, the thermal insulation layer protects the walls of buildings from the harmful effects of atmospheric factors, and also acts as decorative design of facades.

Popular modern material for the insulation of the walls is polystyrene foam. The industrial release of the polymer material began in the first half of the last century, and to this day, the polystyrene foam holds the leading position in the market of thermal insulation products.

His demand is obliged to such qualities as:

• low thermal conductivity;
• small hygroscopicity;
• ease;
• high strength;
• convenience in montage and processing;
• competitive price.

Technology performing work

When the facade insulation is a foam polystyrene fiber technology, a standard, non-requiring availability special Knowledge and expensive equipment. The work process is reduced to the following steps:

• preparation of the surface of the walls;
• installation of the base profile;
• installation of polystyrene foam plates with glue;
• fixation with dowels;
• reinforcement of the surface of the insulation grid;
• plastering.

Easy technological operations Allows you to perform all the work on the insulation of the facade with your own hands. To understand the work of the work of work, it is necessary to consider each of the stages in detail.

Preparation of the surface of the wall

The high-quality preparation of the wall surface is the key to the reliability and durability of the thermal insulation of the facade of the building. The main criterion for a properly prepared surface is its evenness, the absence of old shocking plaster, protruding structural parts and equipment parts. Old stucco on the walls must be checked for strength, and weak sections to engage.

All communications attached to the facade at the time of work should be dismantled (storm gutters, ventilation grilles). Also when installing the polystyrene panels, the problem may represent the protruding elements of the decorative trim of the eaves and window openings.

From the walls, it is necessary to remove the fungus, mold, stains of oily liquids and rust flows, as their presence will reduce the adhesion of the wall surface when mounting the insulation on glue. Posses of the significant size and cracks of the width of the opening of more than 2 mm should be torn and close with putty for outdoor use.

Installation of the base profile

Support for serves the base profile, which is mounted along the entire length of the facade at the bottom of the warming wall surface. The profile width is selected in accordance with the thickness of the insulation sheets, and its fastening is made using a dowel with a step of 300-350 mm.

At the corners of the building, the profile is joined using the angular elements of the connection. The profile sections are connected by plastic clips, which also perform the temperature expansion compensation function.

Window Salves

In the event that the previously installed windows were not calculated on the insulation of the facade of polystyrene foam, they must be replaced by more suitable in size. The lifting width is determined from the accounting of the removal beyond the wall with the insulation by 1 cm. If there is a low-end space, it is necessary to fill it with a heater mixed with glue.

Insulation is also subject to slopes before installed windows. The thickness of the sheets of polystyrene foam in these places is determined depending on the width of the window profile, and is usually 20-30 mm. When selecting the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to remember that the reinforcing mesh and the upper finishing layer of plastering will be superimposed on it, a total of 10 mm thickness.

Glue for polystyrene foam

Dry mixtures based on cement with chemical additives or finished mounting foam are used as glue for insulation. Method of installation of polystyrene foam panels on the foam is more technological, but also more costly. The method of fastening the insulation with adhesive mixtures requires more operations, but due to its low cost, is used more often.

The dry mixture is bred in a bucket with water in the percentage ratio provided by the manufacturer. Components are mixed with a drill operating on low revs and equipped with a special nozzle. The mixed solution must draw about 5 minutes.

The mixture thickened during operation is re-stirred, avoiding the addition of water. The surfaces of the wall surface are compensated by beacons made of adhesive composition. As a rule, the average thickness of the glue layer is 2-3 cm.

Installation on glue

Installation on glue is made from left to right, bottom-up. In case the surface of the wall is smooth, the adhesive mixture is applied to a sheet of expanded polystyrene, and if there are flashes on the surface of the facade, the glue layer is applied to the wall to align them. Each subsequent row of sheets is mounted with displacement so that the joints have a T-shape.

The vertical of the mounted panels is controlled using plumbs and stretched along the level of threads. Width of gaps Between the polystyrene panels should not exceed 2-3 mm. With a greater width of the gaps, they must be filled with polyurethane foam. The heater thickness difference at the joints should not exceed 3 mm.

The joints of the insulation panels in the vertical direction should not coincide with the tops of the windows and doorways. The scattering of marks should be at least 200 mm. The docking plates of polystyrene foam at the corners of the building should be made on a gear scheme, with a dressing and support of the panels on each other.

Fixation with a dowel

The final fixation of the polystyrene foam to the facade of the building must be performed two or three days after completing the gluing process. Fixation is performed using special dowels consisting of plastic fungus and nail. At the same time, nails are also recommended to use plastic to avoid formation of cold bridges.

Each insulation panel is fixed in the center and along the edges, and the flow rate of the dowels is 6-8 pieces per square meter. At the corners of the building, as well as around the perimeter of the openings, it is necessary to provide additional fixation of the insulation with a dowel with a step of 200-300 mm.

The process of fastening the heat insulation of the dowels is as follows:

• in the wall with insulation, the hole of the corresponding depth and diameter is drilled with a drill or perforator;
• dowel-fungus is inserted into the hole;
• the dowel is clogged with a nail with a rubber hammer;
• in the ideal case, in the scored form of a dowel hat, a flush should be located with the surface of the insulation.

Reinforcement of the surface of the insulation

The reinforcing element uses a grid for facade works, made from fiberglass. This material is resistant to alkali, which makes it possible to follow the subsequent plastering of the facade. The mounting of the reinforcing mesh to the insulation is performed using a solution of a dry mixture designed to perform this type of work.

A solution is applied to the surface of polystyrene foams with a uniform layer 15-20 mm, after which it is pressed into it. Installation of the grid is made by vertical stripes measured in the height of the wall. Pressing the grid is performed from the middle to the edges.

The mounted mesh is covered by another layer of solution, the alignment of which is carried out more carefully. After 24 hours, the surface is sweeping and polished, and after the final drying - is processed by primer to prepare for the application of the top layer of plaster.

All works are performed at temperatures. ambient From +5 to +25 degrees and humidity about 80%. The work process is not recommended to be delayed to avoid continuous exposure to direct sunlight on polystyrene foam, as this may reduce its operational characteristics.