Fences from metal stakenik do it yourself. Making a fence made of metal stakenik how to make a fence from iron stakenik

Choosing a fence for a plot is not easy task - it is necessary that it is reliable, durable, beautiful. All these requirements are responsible for the fence made of metal stakenik (Evrichnik). Climble is problematic - not that stiffness. Breaking it "boring" - usually, lovers to lose weight are limited to the fact that they will move a couple of planks. Beauty, of course, the criterion is subjective, but such fences look better than the same solid. In addition, they are not so susceptible to wind loads, which allows you to save on the support pillars. Additional plus - they are blown. In general, a good option.

What is a metal stakenik

Metal stakenik makes a galvanized steel sheet. The sheet forms a relief, after which it is cut into stripes-staketin, is covered with protective compositions, painted. The planks of a certain height are obtained. Usually height - from 150 to 180 cm. For the collection of the fence, still supporting pillars are needed (most often 60 * 60 * 2 mm), the tents (two or three crossings, which come between the columns) and fasteners.

Types, shapes, profiles

The thickness of the European Metal can be from 0.4 to 1.5 mm. The most common - from the steel thickness of 0.5 mm. Staketina width - from 80 mm to 128 mm, length - up to 2 meters.

P and M - shaped metal stakenik profiles

There are metal stakenik with different profile: n (rectangular), m shaped and semicircular. M-shaped have more ribs, respectively have greater rigidity. But there are also P-shaped, in which the grooves are molded in the back. So in this case it is already difficult to say which one will be tougher. Most likely, the last, especially if the edges are rooted.

Semicircular also have greater rigidity, but more difficult to form and have a higher price. For greater strength, additional grooves can also be formed along the long side.

In general, the more rigid ribs, the better the strapbea is resist in length. But with the complication of relief the price becomes higher. Since she is rather big, usually you have to search for a compromise. In any case, the bar must withstand your attempts to bend it.

What to pay attention to when choosing

When you choose a metal stakenik, it is advisable to look at the batch offered to you live. It may be declared the same metal thickness, and in practice it turns out that the edge of the plank from one batch can be bent with a finger, with another party, such a focus is unable. And this is one manufacturer. The point is as a metal batch, and it is rarely stable.

The rooted edge, several layers of protective coatings - these are signs of a good metal stakenist

Be sure to pay attention to the edges - better if they are roles. First, it is more attractive appearanceSecondly, the large stiffness of the stakenice, thirdly, the sharp edge bent and it is impossible to be injured. The disadvantage of the stakeholder with the rolling one is a higher price, as special equipment is required and extra time for processing.

If we talk about the products of specific firms, the popular is popular Grand Line (Grand Line), Barrera Grande, Nova, TPK Center for Metal Cool, Finfold, Unix (Unix).

Methods of coloring

It is worth sorting out in the way of color. There is an iron stake with bilateral and one-sided painting. With one-sided, the back side is covered with a layer of soil without staining. It has, respectively, gray. The fence made of metal stakenice painted on the one hand, from the inside of the gray section. It is not bad - he is not striking. If you do not suit you this option, or buy with bilateral painting, or Kraft yourself. Paint take "for roofs", picking up a suitable shade. Note that the metal died with a brush looks ... not very. If there is a paintopult, the appearance will be quite good, although not perfect.

So it looks like "starving" painted on one side of the fence made of metal stakenik

It is also necessary to take into account that there are two types of staining of the metal stakenist:

1. polymer coating;
2. powder paint.

The first method is much more reliable, since the application technology requires special equipment and harsh compliance with technology. As a result, such a stakeholder withstands increased mechanical effects. Even if the scratch appears in the coating (although it is necessary to try), the metal does not rust, as there are still protective coatings that prevent the appearance of rust.

Polymer coating - the best choice today

Powder spraying, in theory, no worse. But only if it was done according to the rules: a protective coating was applied to the projected metal, and on top of it - powder paint and baked it in special chambers. But the essence is that you can also apply in the "garage", and somehow you can burn it there. The result will only be completely different. In addition, there are ready-made sheets of Chinese origin. In them, paint is applied to the workshop, but, often, directly on the neglished steel surface. Externally, it is impossible to identify all these nuances, and after the slightest scratch, rust appears. So the polymer coating is more "safe."

What could be a fence made of metal stakenik

Metal fences can like or not, because there are no tastes. But in terms of practicality, they certainly won. Installing once, you still do not remember the fence for years. It should not be painted so that he had a decent appearance because good quality The paint is kept for years without visible changes. And this is one of the important factors that are forced to think about installing such a fence.

On tape foundation

With the foundation and pillars from clinker bricks

Methods of installation

There are single-row and double-row (double-sided, chess) Method of installation of metal stakeholder planks. With a double row, the planks are located on both sides of the taper, and so that they even on a centimeter overlap each other. Therefore, the distance between the planks should be slightly smaller than the width of staketin. With this installation, the slats on the traffic point meter fence will be required by 55-60% more. But the fence is obtained practically imperishable - only at a certain angle can be seen a small part of the area. And this is despite the fact that the fence will not be solid and all the "charms" of a continuous fence will not touch you.

Most often the plank is fixed vertically, but there is horizontal way Installation - it can also be single-row or double row. It looks horizontal fence more exotic. With a double row (double-sided) mounting of the slats, it turns out at all opaque.

The disadvantage of this method of installation is that special pillars and intermediate poles are needed, which will provide the required stiffness of the structure. Another nuance: the planks usually produce up to 180 cm long, longer have to be ordered, and it costs extra money. So either you have to raise the poles more often, or overpay for non-standard size.

Dimensions and distance

When installing in one row, the gaps between the straps can be different. The exact distance is chosen arbitrarily, depending on how "transparent" want to make a fence. Most often, the distance between Staketins is 35-50% of the width of the plank. But this is not a rule, and with smaller, and with big gaps.

When installing the chess, if you do not want your courtyard at an angle, the planks must overlap 50% width of staketin or more. If the "viewing" is unimportant, you can put them so that the edges overlap only by 1 cm.

The height of the fence is chosen depending on the wishes of the owners. If you want the courtyard to be as close as possible from an extraneous eye, the length of the bar must be from 180 cm. Taking into account the fact that they will be slightly raised above the ground, this is enough for the overwhelming majority of people could not look at your territory.

If you do not care if there is something visible through the fence or not, you can take 1250 mm and 1500 mm. In the first case, the fence will end somewhere at the chest level of passersby, in the second - at the level of the eye or just below (look at the figure in the figure), and this is without a foundation.

The width of the span of a vertical fence made of metal stakenik - 200-250 cm. It is at such a distance that there are poles, then two or three crossbars are fixed between them. These crossmen are called "lags" or "tents." For a stakeholder up to 150 cm high, two are sufficiently cross, for higher, it is better three.

Types of fillings

There are some more varieties of filling the spans (distances between the support pillars). The easiest way to install the direct method is when all the strips of the same length. On top of such a fence, it is possible to start the P-shaped bar from the same material (sold there where both the Ershtroker is sold. In addition to aesthetic load, it still covers metal cuts, which increases the service life of the fence.

All "waves" require trimming of most slats for a certain distance. One "wave" is made on the span with a step of 50 or 25 mm. With a step of 50 mm, the height difference between the shortest and the longest straps is significant, but the fence looks more openwork. In the case of "waves" in a step of 25 mm or with a "double wave", the difference is smaller. The top planks here are much less likely, but they can also be installed. Only at the site of the "Waves" fracture will have to trim the sidewalls and bend.

Features and installation rules

When installing a fence from a metal stake in Middle lane Russia, recommended to install pillars from the profiled pipe 60 * 60 mm (you can 60 * 40). For the cross, it is more convenient to take the same profiled pipe, but with a cross section of 40 * 20 mm. In this case, the fence will accurately withstand wind and snow loads.

When installing the setting step - 2 meters. If the cross is two, they are fixed so that it is 25-35 cm to the edge of the bar, with a staketin height from 150 cm and more, a distance of 30-35 cm, with shorter - 25 cm. But, with a fence height above 1.5 m, It is better to do three lags, and not only in the regions with strong winds. Just with two lags, it turns out too much a distance between the fastener, which is why the planks are easy to push.

There are two ways to fix planks: on a screw and rivets. Self-tapping screws are installed on both edges of the bar on each of the cross. That is, if two are across two, it is necessary for each bar for 4 screws / rivets, if three, then the fasteners need 6 pieces on staketin. You can, of course, fasten to one self-tapping screw or rivet on the cross, installing it in the middle. But in this case, it is not necessary to push the stakes with your hands easier - and you do not need to climb through the fence.

So mount faster, but it is "purely decorative" fence

Which type of fasteners choose? Self-tapping screws are easy - in this, they are plus. But they are also easily unscrewed that, under certain circumstances, it may be a minus. Rivets require more time to install, but also to remove them much more difficult. What to choose? On the front part of the fence or if the fence is for a long time, it remains unattended (giving seasonal visits), it is definitely worth putting rivets. Of course, if the attackers will enjoy the goal, they will cope with rivets, but it will be more difficult to do it. When installing the fence between neighbors in homes permanent residenceIt is quite possible to mount a metal stakenik on the self-tapping screw.

How to make it yourself

As you probably noticed, the metal stakenik is produced by almost the same technology as a professionalist, and there is a sheet cheaper. Therefore, many appear idea, make a stakenik, dissolving a strap strap. In principle, it is possible to do this if you are able to cut strictly along the line without any noticeable deviations. But for cutting it is necessary to use scissors for metal - sparkling or manual. Bulgarian cut in no case, because it burns the protective cover. So work is not difficult and time will take a lot. If you do not scare it, you can try.

What is the lack of a homemade stakenik from the professionalist? Everything is obvious: the edge rarely happens even, since manually do it is difficult. In addition, the cut turns out to be unprotected and can start rust. Of course, it is possible to wash the sections of the primer / paint, but that all layers are legally normally, an absolutely clean surface is required. That is, the sections of the sections initially need to be discussed (not so difficult, but takes time), then still degrease. Only in this case the protective coating will be really high quality.

It is advisable to fade the edges - it will give a homemade stakeholder greater stiffness, because additional reliefs rarely form on a straightener. He "keeps" the form due to its size and alternation of waves.

Metal fences are reliable, durable, beautiful, relatively inexpensive and easy to arrange. With the assembly of the majority existing varieties Metal fences can be copped own forces, not even having experiences of such events.

Having studied the following manual, you will learn to do 4 different iron hedges at once. Choose the most visible modification of the fence and proceed to work.

Mount Support and Frame

The procedure for arranging supporting racks and the crossing remains the same for all, except for the net fencing.

Set for work.

1. Shovel or bur.
2. Roulette.
3. Rods and rope for marking.
4. Level.
5. Rubble.
6. Sand.
7. Cement.
8. Welding machine.
9. Supports. Fit metal pipes. You can use the pipes of a circular or square (rectangular) section. The diameter or cross-section of pipes should be at least 70 mm.
10. Lags. For their manufacture we buy a flat profile with a width of 40 mm and a thickness of 25 mm. Lags we will fix horizontally. Thanks to it, a rigid fastening of profiled sheets will be provided.

First step

We study the layout of the site. We choose the most convenient places for the future arrangement of the gate and gate - they will leave them empty.

Second Step

We place the territory. To do this, on the perimeter of the fence, we drive the rod and stretch the cord between them. At the same stage of work, we note the placement of support racks. The optimal step between such elements is 3 m.

Third Step

Poam pits for racks with a diameter of about 200 mm and a depth of about 100-130 cm.

Fourth Step

Install, carefully extending them in terms of level.

Fifth Step

I fill on the bottom of each pit 20-centimeter layer of rubbank or gravel and fill cement mortar. Let him give him 3 days to dry out. Immediately put on the supports of cone-shaped caps. They will protect our fill from the rain.

Sixth Step

Mount the transverse lags. For greater reliability, we do it with welding machine. The required amount of crossbar is chosen in accordance with the planned height of the fence. For example, for fencing up to 180 cm height, there are enough two crossbars. If the fence is higher, the number of lags increase accordingly.

We make a fence from the professionalist

What will take.

1. . For the arrangement of the fence, the material of the brands C-8 and C-10, as well as C-20 and C-21, will be best.
2. Fastening elements. We buy a dowel with a length of 30-40 mm.
3. Caller car paint.

Mark.	Overall width sheet, mm	Useful width sheet, mm	Profile height, mm	Metal thickness, mm
C-8	1200	1150	8	0,4-0,8
C-10	1155	1130	10	0,4-0,7
C-15	1200	1150	15	0,4-0,8
C-18.	1150	1100	18	0,4-0,8
C-20	1150	1100	20	0,4-0,8
C-21	1051	1000	21	0,4-0,8
C-44	1047	1000	44	0,5-0,8
MP-18.	1150	1100	18	0,4-0,8
MP-20	1150	1100	18	0,4-0,8
MP-35	1076	1035	35	0,5-1
N-60.	902	845	60	0,5-1
N-75	800	750	75	0,7-1,2
N-114.	646	600	114	0,7-1,2
NS-35	1100	1035	35	0,5-1
NS-44	1050	1000	20	0,4-0,8

Installation instructions

Fence from professional flooring do it yourself

Fix profiled sheets with an overlap in 1 wave. For fastening sheets, we use the screws. Screw the fasteners with a step of 500 mm. In the process of installing on sheets, scratches will inevitably remain. They can be quickly and easily hide paint in the canister. You can mask and ordinary paint under the color of the sheets, but it is more convenient from the canister.

Prices for popular types of professionals

Professor

Video - fence from the professional sheet do it yourself

Making a fence made of metal stakenik

Set for work.

A set of tools remains similar to previous management.

Order of arrangement

Getting to fasten the stakenik.

Installation options - simple and double (double-sided)

Previously below and at the top of each stakeholder (in places of future attachment to the crossbar) we create 2 holes. The diameter of each of them should be slightly less than the diameter of the fasteners used. This is done to make the material not cracked in the fastening process.

Fix each bar to cross four scores. Watch that stakes are fixed at one level and with the same distance, unless otherwise planned by the designer idea.

Video - Metal Stakenice Fence

Making a net fence

Reliable I. beautiful fence It can be made from a metal welded grid with a polymer coating.

The procedure for installing the support remains similar to previous instructions. For the arrangement of racks, use the profile stainless pipe treated according to zinc phosphating technology, followed by a special polymer composition.

Sections for fences are also sold in the finished form. If you wish, you can make them yourself.

For the manufacture of sections, steel wire with a diameter of about 5 mm is used. The rods are placed perpendicular to each other and fasten with welding at the intersection points. As a result, a section is obtained as a rectangular or square cells.

To improve the appearance and operational properties of the wire fencing is covered by a special composition based on zinc, zinc in combination with PVC, zinc in a complex with polymer and nanocheramic.

Poles installed, sections are also available. We proceed to the installation of the elements of the fence!

To attach panels to supports, we use bolts, special brackets and nuts. From the tools only the end key will be needed. No additional materials and tools will have to use. Finally, the mounting holes are closed with special plugs.

If necessary, additional accessories are installed, for example, curly elements. For collateral purposes additional protectionOver the fencing you can mount a barbed wire.

Good job!

Rabita grid prices

Rabitz

Video - Metal fence with your own hands

Metal stakenik - Durable and relatively inexpensive material from which you can make a beautiful fence. The stakenik is profiled strips of steel. They have a polymer coating, so they are not "afraid" corrosion.

There may be gaps between the planks in the fence, so the fence itself does not discard the shadow. it optimal solution For a parisade, a small garden, cottages.

Advantages of metallic stakenika

The metal stakenik is just as durable and durable, like a professionalist, and has a number of advantages:

• ease of installation (make a fence from the stakenik will not be more difficult than from ordinary boards);
• minimum price (based on one square meter of fencing);
• high strength;
• durability (serves to 25 years);
• undemanding (for the fence you do not need to care);
• wide selection design solutions (comes in different colors, with different profile);
• low weight (does not require foundation).

Stakenik can be combined with other materials: wood, grid, straw.

Stages of production of fence

For the manufacture of the fence will take several days. In order to make a fencing, a lot of time and many years of experience in the construction sector are not required. You can make it with your own hands by purchasing materials.

Before you - short instruction.

Calculations and Purchase of Materials

First you need to measure the perimeter of the site. To calculate the number of columns, profiled pipes and the volume of the stakeholder itself, you need to consider the following data:

• Between the columns should be about 1.5-2 meters. The smaller the step, the better.
• Staketina length - up to 3 meters. It is possible, it will have to cut it. If you make a fence in full height, Take a 1.5-2 meter straight patch - no need to cut.
• Metal profile (transverse lags) is installed below and from above. Therefore, two profiles with a length of 1.5-2 meters fall on each step between the columns.
• Between stakes, you can leave a 0-5 cm gap, calculate exact amount You can, focusing on the width of the stakenik.

So, making calculations, you can go to the store and buy:

• fence;
• profiled pipes for pillars;
• profile for transverse lag;
• bolts for fastening;
• paint and primer for metal (for painting pillars and lag);
• materials for installing columns (it can be concrete, sand, crushed stone).

In addition, you will need materials: shovel for coppe pits under the poles (you can use the Boer or another drilling tool), construction roulette, sledgehammer, drill for metal work. If you are going to concrete pillars, bow to the symptoms and the container for concrete.

Preparation of the territory

If you have everything, it remains only to free the territory (remove the garbage, shrubs, roots or stumps from trees, old fence). Follow the installation sites. Make sure they will be installed in a straight line. If the fence is installed throughout the perimeter, you can use a corner or a special tool for measuring the corners. Between parts of the fence should be 90 degrees.

It is best to note the places for the poles, scoring in the ground a stick or fittings, and between them stretch the rope. In the future, the stick can be removed.

Installing columns

Dock the pits under the poles. This can be done using a boraxy or ordinary shovel. Make sure that the posts are installed below the ground freezing level. It is also important to determine the level of groundwater.

Poles can be installed in three ways:

1) Using the drill to the ground. In this case, you do not need to dig holes. It is enough to drill a small hole, and then score a pole with a sledgehammer.

2) Using the bouture bout. You fall asleep a bit of rubble into a hole, install a pillar, then fall asleep with rubble to the ground level. Crushed stone need to tightly rav.

3) by concreting. Despite the fact that in this case you have to prepare a solution, this method is the easiest and familiar to many. At the bottom of the pits, a slight amount of sand and rubble is poured, then a pillar is installed, which is poured with a solution.

If you used concrete, it is possible to build a fence yourself only after complete drying of the solution. Wait at least a week. In other cases, the main work can be started immediately.

Installation of a metal profile

Now you need to cut a profile (if necessary) on equal segments, equal to the width of the step between the columns. The profile is fixed on the pillars in several ways:

• with bolts or other mounts, if the holes are already there;
• with welding;
• with wire or special brackets.

Holes for fastenings can be made independently if you have a drill. The choice in favor of this or that option depends on the thickness of the steel.

The profile is installed at 30-40 cm above the ground and 20-30 cm below the top of the future fence. In the profile you can pre-make holes under the bolts to which the stakenik will be attached.

Installation Lag - the matter is not easy. You can simplify it by buying a ready frame. In this case, you will simply collect it in place by setting the lags using the mounting kit.

Paints and Lag Painting

Transverse lags and pillars can be painted in color. So the fence will be aesthetically and served longer: the paint will protect the elements of corrosion fencing.

First, it is necessary to clean the surface of the column, and then cover the primer. Paint is applied at the end.

Installing Stakenika

The stakenik himself does not require much time to install. For it, you can use bolts, self-tapping screws or other fasteners. If the holes were not provided, a drill will be required.

If the gaps are provided, try to do so that they are equal width. The easiest way to immediately store both transverse lags and install the stakenik one by one.

For all the work, you spend from one day to two to three weeks, depending on the length of the fence, the method of installing the column, your experience. Special difficulties during installation will not arise.

Disputes about what fencing to choose for private ownership is carried out for a very long time. Someone prefers - environmentally friendly, attractive outwardly and easy-to-install, someone builds real walls from bricks and stones - "My house is my fortress." But experts on country / country construction recommend paying attention to the selection of the type of fencing area to the metal stake. It has not only a neat appearance, but also differs in certain advantages.

Table of contents: - - -

What is good metallic stakenik?

The main quality characteristics of the metal stakenice and specialists, and those who already have such a fence, call a long service life and practically the absence of the need to care. In principle, according to the functionality, the metal stakenik completely imitates a wooden fence, but its installation can be carried out by an absolute newcomer - you do not need important knowledge and many years of experience.

Compare! To install a wooden fence, you need to do a lot of work.:

• carefully choose sawn timber, wood type;
• each element of the fence will need to stive and paint;
• it is necessary to know the specific rules for attaching wooden elements with metal brackets.

And do not forget about the further operation of a wooden fence - experts claim that he can serve no more than 10 years, and during this period it will be necessary to subjected to its complete repainting. And even if all the rules of exploitation be observed, you will be lucky and there is really strong and according to the rules dried wood, for 10 years of operation such a fencing will lose its attractive appearance - unfortunately, drying and deformation are natural processes for wood.

Metal stakenik will save the owner private territory From such problems - a special polymer coating on the details protects the product from corrosion, the decorative paint has increased resistance to ultraviolet rays and moisture, and the life of the metal stakenik producers is declared from 20 years.

It is worth a separately mention that color solutions Metal stakenists a lot, so it will be possible either to make a fence in single style with home I. panstoneor experiment and allocate a fence from a metal stake in a separate exterior accent.

Variety of materials

In the sale of the considered type of product is presented in several variants - there are 6 types of profile itself and 4 types of trimming of the upper edge of the staketin. Experts allocate M-shaped, P-shaped and rounded profile.

Moreover, each of them has a reinforced version with two / three ribs of stiffness - the choice should be made with regard to the region of living (some are characterized by strong winds), the location of the site (some are blocked literally "on all sides").

As for the upper end of each metal staketin, it can be rounded, even with cut corners. The choice, of course, depends on the individual preferences of the buyer, but consider the upper bar-crossing bar for a fence from a metal stakenik can be established only under the condition of completely even ends.

Note: There are metal stakes with bent petals or sharp corners. Such elements are used when installing a fence with a height of more than 1, 8 m, while the standard height of the fence from the metal stakenice is 1, 5 m.

Basic rules for installing metal stakenik do it yourself

It is not difficult to establish an independent fence from metal staketin, it is important only to clearly follow the recommendations of specialists. And they claim that, first of all, we need to clear the "battlefield" - remove the garbage, mock the grass, trimmed under the root (ideally - torture together with roots) bushes and trees on the estimated location of the fence from the metal stakenice.

The next stage of work is marking. It should be carried out as follows.:

• each direct portion of the future fence is determined by the strained cape-cord;
• the cord is stretched between two stakes, which are 150-250 cm from each other.

Note:it is necessary to hold a single horizontal level. Even if a plot with a slope, then a common slope is set - the alignment of the metal stake will be carried out on the top edge of each element. It is clearly shown in the Scheme below.

The length of each section of a metal staketin is an average of 1, 5 - 2 meters, but a more accurate size must be determined independently. The necessary rigidity of the metal fence, the strength of each element of the future fence framework is taken into account. After the distance between sections is determined, labels are made on Earth - these are the places of the future location of the support pillars.

Installation of support pillars

In places of designation, it is necessary to dull fumes in the ground - their depth should be 35% of the total height of the acquired elements for support pillars.

Important: the pillars are never laughed at a depth, which exceeds the threshold of the earth freezing.

Then you need to score the heads to the ground, align them along the horizontal level and omit to 30 cm below the alleged height of the fence from the metal stakenist.

The above algorithm of action is possible only if the plot of heavy soil, the soil dense and the support pillars are securely "sit" in the ground. Otherwise, it will have to concrete every support - there is nothing difficult in this, but then the time for the installation of the presented type of fences will be increased (it is necessary to wait for a complete solo solution).

Important: experts strongly recommend concreting supports - in this case you will be sure that the fence will stand even with strong gusts of wind and shifts of the soil.

There are other methods for installing metal supports - crubbing bouts, as well as a combined method, in which the base depressed into the ground is concreted, but not completely.

At the end of the installation of the support pillars for the collection of metal staketing, it is necessary to close the upper hole of each plastic plug.

Note: It's believed that optimal choice Material for support pillars - profile pipe with a cross section of 60x60, it will also come in handy for mounting transverse crossbars. Supporting "shoulders" from reinforcement 12mm should be welded to the bottom of the profile pipes.

Collection of fence frame from a stake

Transverse crossbars are best attached to the support pillars using welding. In order for the fence from a metal stakenice fully corresponded to the declared qualitative characteristics, two crossbars will need:

• one is attached to 20-30 cm. Below the top point of the support is either installed on top of the support pillars: welded to them, and then the seam is determined by the grinder (with the second embodiment, plastic plugs on the support poles are not set);
• the second crossbind (lower) is set to 30 cm above the ground. Need to cut for work profile pipe In the size of each section and weld it to the ends of the support pillars.

The scheme of the installation of the stake with 3 lag and the top of the top lags below the top of the support point:

As a rule, transverse crossbars are attached from the inside of the intended fence, and the bottom planks are "embedded" in the middle of the space between the support pillars - it will be possible to save free space, which will allow you to install a double-sided fence made of metal stakenik. But if there is little work experience with metal structures, or it is not at all, then the process of mounting the frame can be simplified - it is enough to establish transverse staps from the outside of the fence, welding them to the facade side of the support pillar.

In the case of non-evidence of the welding machine or the absence of professional skills in this case, it is possible to use a special crosset from the perforated channel and bolts for fastening transverse slats. By the way, reliability, the strength of this type of fastening will be at all worse than welding, but also time to complete the frame device will need more.

Installation of metal staketing

For fastening metal staketing, the usual self-tapping screws are most often used for the hexagon headset. But experts recommend to abandon such fasteners and give preference to special self-assemblies for the European sweepage with a crusade on a circular hat. If such acquired will not succeed (they are really hard to find in outlets), You can use anti-vandal screws - a hat in them either breaks down when tightening, or has a complex slot, to which it is very difficult to choose a tool.

There are several rules that need to be followed when installing metal staketing:

1. Make a wooden staketin pattern with a slot, which will determine the height of the location of each element.
2. The marking cord should be freely stretched at a distance of 4 cm from the top edge of the fence.
3. The stakenik must be located at an altitude of 7 cm from the ground (you can reduce this figure to 5 cm, but it is maximum!).
4. Installation of a metal stakenist is always starting from the corners, while it is necessary to strictly unstelling the vertical level - the final result depends on it.
5. Each subsequent metal staketine is attached at a distance from the previous one by 3-5 cm.

Note: Having attached metal staketin, it should be conditionally secured with a self-tapping screw. Then the level is convinced in the perfect vertical arrangement of the element, if necessary, align it and only after that, a solid fastening of odds can be carried out.

As a rule, when installing a metal stakenant, cutting planks is not required. But if such a need is, it is done by a grinder, and the sections obtained are necessarily processed bituminous mastic (It must be chosen under the color of the fence).

And the last nuance - if a stake was chosen with smooth upper edges, then the horizontal crossbar can be installed on top of the entire fence. It is fastened with painted screws (exclusively for the aesthetic form of the fence) to each 5 staketin.