How to cover the roof with metal tiles: step-by-step installation instructions. Do-it-yourself installation of a roof made of metal tiles - step by step instructions How to properly assemble metal tiles
The metal tile stands out significantly from other roofing options. Still: the roof of the roof with metal tiles is easy, beautiful and inexpensive. Thanks to current technology, there are many varieties of this material, which are ranked by base material, coverage, insole depth and geometry.
Making such a roof yourself is not the most difficult thing, especially if you are armed with knowledge and tools.
Types of metal tiles
In order to choose the right metal tile for the roof, you need to keep in mind the pros and cons of each of its varieties.
Based on:
- steel - the most popular type, extremely resistant to external influences;
- aluminum - the lightest tile, durable, does not suffer from corrosion. However, it is more expensive than steel, and the range of its colors is limited;
- copper - an excellent option for roofing, does not need a protective coating, looks noble.
In the photo - one of the varieties of metal tiles, aluminum cascade
By coverage:
- polyester - the most cheap option... Such metal tiles can be matte or glossy;
- plastisol is also not the most expensive type of coating. It is a plastic film;
- puralovaya - gloss metal tile. This coating is resistant to corrosion and is based on polyurethane;
- PVF2 is an elastic coating that is resistant to temperatures and has many shades.
Insole depth and geometry:
- andalusia - coating with hidden mount... Minus - the need for accurate and frequent crate;
- banga - a tile with an impressive wave height, but a smaller assembly width. Allows you to get the "3D" effect;
- country - this type is similar to natural tiles, has a sophisticated look (soft and even waves), is easy to install and durable;
- the cascade is the most economical option metal tiles. The mounting width is sufficient, the shapes are straight, which allows you to emphasize classic style buildings and their sophistication;
- monterrey is the most common species. It is very similar to a real tile, it can have symmetrical or asymmetrical steps, the profile is rounded.
Self-assembly of a roof with metal tiles involves 3 stages: preparation of the structure, installation of metal tiles, installation of additional elements.
Installation instructions
For work you need:
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- hammer;
- cut-through and metal scissors;
- hacksaw for metal;
- rail and markers for marking;
- jigsaw.
We prepare the rafter system
- We manage with a crate. The flatter the roof slope, the smaller the pitch of the sheathing. The correct distance is essential for accurate installation of the roof tile sheets. Saturate the battens with anti-fire and anti-rotting agents.
- If you intend to use the room under a roof, install thermal insulation.
- Mount the vapor barrier from the special film, observing 3 rules:
- from 150 mm between sheets of vapor barrier;
- from 200 mm material overlap on the walls;
- fastening with a little slack.
We lay the metal tile
Important! For cutting sheets of metal tiles, you can not use the "grinder". The area near the cut is very hot, the decorative, protective layers and zinc electroplating simply burn out. Corrosion forms on the sheets.
Installation of other elements
- We mount the parts of the ridge with an overlap, the size of which is indicated in the passport. Through each wave of the bottom sheets, the skates are attached with self-tapping screws.
- To equip the gutters, use the elements from the kit with metal tiles. Special structures of the crate are needed for them.
- Cornices, gable boards and chimneys, ventilation boxes, dormers, cables, snow guards, fences, ladders and bridges are also installed using the complete materials and the attached instructions.
Roofing of a mansard roof with metal tiles
Metal tiles, gaining popularity, did not pass by the mansard roofs. The reasons are the same: simple installation, aesthetic appearance and durability.
In the Foto - Vacation home attic floor covered with metal roofing
Peculiarities
There are 5 features on which the installation of a mansard roof with metal tiles is based:
- the joining of the sheets should go along the wave;
- the sheets are also joined along the rows of the sheathing board, self-tapping screws at the joints are installed in each wave;
- when fastened to the cornice, the roof sheet protrudes 5 cm beyond the edge of the cornice, between the first sheathing board and the edge of the cornice - no more than 25 cm;
- the ridge board of the sheathing is 1 cm thicker than the others for good ventilation, fastening occurs with a step of 0.8 m into the crest of the wave;
- installation of the roof at the ends implies end strips on self-tapping screws with a pitch of 0.8 m. The same applies to gutters.
Installation instructions
The set of rules for installing a mansard roof with metal tiles will depend on its type. Consider the rectangular option:
- We mount the rafter system and lathing. The step for the rafters is 60-90 cm, the lathing board is 10 mm wide and 25 mm thick. We align and hammer the cornice board.
- Then we install the gutter hooks on the eaves strip. For better joining of all sheets, at first they are fastened with self-tapping screws through two rows, then completely.
- For the normal fastening of 4 sheets in one row, 2 sheets are mounted, to them - a pair of another row. The seal at the joint is eliminated by aligning the capillary groove and cutting off part of the corner.
- In the presence of roof windows, it is better to use single-module sheets - 2 for each window.
- The metal tile is laid from the end - the ridge is mounted on the end strips with a protrusion of 2-3 cm. The elements of the flat ridge are overlapped, the semicircular ridge along the profile line.
Important! Roof ventilation plays an important role. If mansard roof made of metal tiles - flat, it is recommended to install an aero roller blocking the snow from falling under the ridge. If the ridge is equipped with ventilation in the form of pin holes, the installation of a seal is required.
Do-it-yourself roofing with corrugated board
The corrugated board has high quality indicators, including its versatility as a working material, ease of installation and reconstruction, minimal waste after work and the ability to install sheets without special training.
Types of corrugated board
When choosing a corrugated board, be guided by the letter of the marking:
- N ("bearing") - the most durable sheet, gives the structure amazing strength and durability;
- NS ("non-existent-wall") - universal look, has an average size of sheets and corrugations;
- C ("wall") - an elegant option used in the decoration of walls, roofs, the manufacture of fences and other things.
Installation instructions
Roof installation with corrugated board takes place in 3 stages.
The cost of roofing a roof made of metal tiles
The price of a metal roof varies depending on the cost of the material, roofing and additional work.
A good metal tile costs around 160-700 rubles. per square.
Work without materials will cost per square:
- RUB 500-600 - only the roof;
- RUB 770-820 - roof and lathing;
- 1000-1200 rubles - installation rafter system, lathing, roof;
- RUB 1500-1650 - a new pitched roof of the attic type with an attic, rafter system, insulators, lathing, roofing.
Additional services can cost a pretty penny:
- RUB 250-280 per m. - snow retainers and drainage system;
- about 150 rubles per m. - installation of cornice and end strips;
- about 450 rubles per sq. m. - rafter system from scratch;
- over RUB 7500 - installation of a roof window into a finished roof.
Video
From the video you will learn how to professionally cover the roof with metal tiles, avoiding common mistakes. We also consider options for installing additional accessories for this type of roof.
Buying one of the best roofing materials- metal tiles - do not skimp on components. It is better to purchase a complete set from one company: some companies do not give guarantees for their Construction Materials, if they are mounted by "foreign" components. If necessary, it is better to save on labor and install high-quality and beautiful metal tiles with your own hands.
A reliable roof, in which there is high-quality waterproofing and insulation along the slopes, is the dream of any owner of a summer cottage, either country house... Today, such a dream is easily achievable if it is fulfilled.
Before being out of metal tiles with your own hands, you will need to think about the issue of removal old roof, in which there may be no waterproofing. In this case, everything will depend on the technology by which the roofing cake was made and its condition.
A list of elements that will be needed in order to install a new roof to your house:
- hacksaw for metal;
- anti-condensation films;
- waterproofing;
- galvanized nails;
- self-tapping screws;
- sealing tape.
The process of making control measurements with your own hands
After the installation of the rafters is completed, you will need to re-measure the dimensions of the roof slopes. This is due to the fact that during the construction, there could well have been any deviations. It is worth paying attention to the rectangularity of the roof, because due to additional elements it will be possible to hide only small defects (no more than 10 mm).
It is worth knowing that when the roof is covered with metal tiles, sheets must be cut exclusively with a hacksaw for metal, a hand-held power saw or special scissors.
It is worth noting that it is possible to use a technology that has waterproofing only if the roof slope is at least 14 degrees.
The choice of the type of roof snow guards will depend on what material the roof is made of and how much snow falls in a particular region. The main dimension that will determine the length of the sheets is the length of the slope. This is the distance from the roof ridge to the eaves, which must be set taking into account the overhang of the sheet from the eaves (up to 40 mm).
In the case where the slope is longer than 7 m, the sheets will need to be divided into two or more fragments that overlap (at least 150 mm). The downside of long sheets, which have fewer joints, is that they are very inconvenient to work with.
It is worth knowing that when cutting sheets, you need to do it exclusively with a hacksaw for metal, a hand-held power saw or special scissors. All places where bare metal remains must be treated with a special paint that protects the steel from corrosion. At the same time, it is not at all recommended to use a popular grinder with an installed abrasive wheel in order to cut the sheets. Its application does not justify itself.
How to do the installation of the crate with your own hands
The space under the roof must have good ventilation, therefore, crate and counter battens will be needed. Anti-condensation films will need to be placed between the rafters and metal sheets. The waterproofing should be spread parallel to the eaves.
For soft roof from roll materials, a continuous crate is required.
The material should sag a little between the rafters. A slight slack in tension (1-2 cm) will be enough. Along the rafters on top of it, you will need to nail small bars with a cross section of 40x25 mm. This will be a counter-lath, on top of which you will need to fix the flat bars of the lathing. The distance is equal to the step of the wave at the metal tile. The board that will go out onto the cornice will need to be chosen 10-15 cm thicker than the rest.
It is worth noting that the lathing bars and all other wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic without fail. He is able to protect them from insects and rot.
Arrangement of a roof made of metal tiles must necessarily include the use of special materials for waterproofing. There are 2 types of waterproofing, therefore, it is important not to be mistaken here. The first is intended to protect the insulation and rafters from any penetration of moisture vapor from the inside of the room. The second waterproofing is waterproofing films that protect against wind, moisture and condensation. They must be installed exclusively on top of the insulation. They allow water vapor to pass through, and therefore it does not accumulate in the insulation. The slope of the slopes does not allow moisture that flows from the metal tile to stay on the film for a long time.
Do-it-yourself installation of the valley and eaves
Installation correct roof from metal tiles requires protection not only from condensation, which forms on the reverse side of metal sheets, but also from precipitation. They can pose a hazard to the bottom edge of the batten, therefore a curtain rail may be needed here. It consists of a number of boards that are nailed to the crate overlapping each other. In order to do the installation yourself, you should install galvanized nails in increments of no more than 30 cm.
Roof valley diagram.
Endows should be used when the slopes are adjacent to each other. The lower edge of the valley should be laid on top of the completed cornice strip. Use a porous seal to get rid of the gap between the roof covering and the lower valley plank.
The overlay of the valley can give the roof structure a complete look; it must be installed after installing the sheets. Its fixation occurs in the upper part of the wave, while the step is 30-50 cm.
It is necessary to install the end plate using self-tapping screws. In this case, the step between them should be no more than 40 cm. The strips themselves must be overlapped (10 cm) in length.
How is the arrangement of a roof made of metal tiles with your own hands
Installation of the cover should start from the end of one of the ramps after they are completed. preparatory work, which include the installation of anti-condensation film and the installation of the battens.
If the installation starts from the left end, the second sheet must be installed under the last wave of the first. When work starts from the right end of the roof, a new sheet must be laid on top of the last wave of the previous one. In the case when there is a hipped roof, installation will need to start from the middle of the slope, after which the installation is performed evenly in both directions.
Each of the sheets has a capillary groove along its edge. This groove should be covered with the edge of the next sheet. It is necessary to align the covering sheets along the eaves.
Self-tapping screws, with the help of which the sheets are fastened, must be in the deflection of the wave.
The obvious is that it is not difficult, but there are some nuances that you need to be aware of. For example, the self-tapping screws, with the help of which the sheets are fastened, must be in the deflection of the wave. It is necessary to use only those self-tapping screws that have a special sealing washer. At the same time, they will need to be screwed strictly perpendicular to the lathing material. The average consumption of self-tapping screws is not at all high. It is up to 8 pieces per 1 sq. m.
If the screws are screwed in at an angle, they will not be able to tightly press the sealing washer, therefore, a potential leak will appear in the roof.
An important issue is also movement on the roof in the process of performing construction or repair work. It is worth noting that movement on the finished roof is recommended to be avoided altogether, however, if you follow all the existing rules, it can cause only minimal problems.
It is recommended to use shoes that have soft soles. It is allowed to step only on the deflection of the wave and only in the place where the crate will be under the metal layer. In no case should you step on the crest of the wave.
Do-it-yourself skate installation to ensure good ventilation
A correctly installed ridge is the key to good, high-quality ventilation of the space under the roof.
This element must be given special attention at a time when a do-it-yourself metal roof is being installed.
Covering sheets should not converge to each other, while there should be enough space between their edges under the ridge strip. The ridge should be fixed using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the top of every second wave. You will need to glue the edges of the sheets themselves with sealing tape.
If you need to make a semicircular ridge on a hipped roof, it would be best to use special elements such as Y-shaped strips.
Even if the person who performs the repair work knows that he may make a mistake when making a joint with such a vertical surface as a pipe or a wall. In such cases, the contact area will be insulated with an abutment strip and a self-adhesive sealant. Additional sealing can be easily created with a sealant.
The lower abutment strips must be installed in a groove prepared on the surface (pipe or wall). To do this, you should perform strobing, after which you will need to remove dust and rinse the strobe. The abutment bar is trimmed, installed and fixed with self-tapping screws.
After the work is completed, you will get an internal apron, but you will also need to organize the drainage of water. To do this, use a flat sheet of metal, the edges of which will form bumpers.
In addition to the inner apron, you can also use the outer one, which is created from the upper abutment strips. Install it in almost the same way as the internal one, with the exception of performing a chasing. The edges of the planks are simply fixed to the wall.
Some difficulties can arise when working on roof fractures. Such elements can be internal and external. In the first case, an abutment bar is used, which is installed together with the seal. If we are talking about an external fracture, you will need to use a curtain rod.
DIY installation of a drainage system and snow holders
Systems of rectangular cross-section should be used. Their gutters must be installed 2-3 cm below the edge of the roof. The lower edge of the cornice plank should overlap part of the gutter, and the waterproofing film should be brought out on top of it.
Snow holders are installed on the mounting plate using self-tapping screws that reach the crate. They are screwed up every second wave.
The choice of roofing for a bath is a question that is both simple and complex. Even a large number of the roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone, without exception, each bath owner is trying to find his own solution. And we do not have our goal to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their opinion - there is no ideal roof, just as there is no and absolutely bad, each has strong and weak sides, very large fluctuations in price and complexity of installation.
The most prestigious and complex are tile coverings, it can be natural ceramic, concrete, with the addition of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the difference in price by brand may differ factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Metallic and shingles are found most often in bath coverings, and we will dwell on them for now.
To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with the brief characteristics of the coating.
Prices for metal shingles
metal roof tiles
Dignity
Cheapness, quick installation, a wide range of colors and geometric shapes. You can also mention durability, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are made with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6 ÷ 7 years the coating will have to be repaired or changed. Conscientious licensed manufacturers give a guarantee for elite brands of products for 25 years or more.
disadvantages
Noises during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical, in the bath no one is going to sleep in a light sleep. And if an attic is made on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - for baths, metal tiles are an excellent roof covering.
It is necessary to transport metal tiles only in a horizontal position, the length of the body should be greater than the length of the material. Carefully unload the roof, transfer sheets only in an upright position, do not allow sharp bends.
We will describe the most difficult installation method. metal roof tiles- with a warm roof. Depending on the specific use attic spaces you can simplify the editing process and skip some operations.
Step-by-step installation instructions
Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the rafter system. Most of the baths have the simplest gable roof types, it does not take much time to check their dimensions.
How to do it? First, you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system, the difference in values should not exceed two centimeters, such a spread is hidden without problems by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the extreme rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted, the deflections are corrected while nailing the battens.
Step 2. If possible, treat all wooden elements of the rafter system with complex antiseptic agents. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety performance. For a bath, this is an important factor.
Step 3. Laying waterproofing.
It will protect the insulation layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles, water droplets can get on the mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-shielding performance. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures can cause them to deteriorate prematurely. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected with a vapor barrier layer.
Waterproofing is sold in rolls, during installation you need to follow the markings, lines are drawn on the front surface. Simple bath roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Begin waterproofing just near the chimneys, stretch the material around the entire perimeter and fix it with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of the condensate drainage, it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.
The chimney is processed - proceed with the waterproofing of the slopes. Lay the rolls from the bottom up, fix them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow significant sagging of the material; in no case should it touch mineral wool... The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50 × 50 mm counter battens.
Such a device increases the efficiency natural ventilation between roofing and crate. Some builders skip this operation, they believe that there are enough gaps between the crate and the covering sheets for ventilation. Both methods have the right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing.
Step 4.
Nail wind boards along the eaves, wrap the waterproofing over the boards.
For the lathing, you can use boards with a thickness of 30 mm and a width of 100 mm or strips of 30 × 50 mm. The first board or rail from the eaves should be one centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixing the sheets and prevent them from being blown up by strong gusts of wind. The step of the lathing should be equal to the step of the wave of the metal tile.
Lathing for metal tiles - photo
Nail the first strip at the eaves, check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a marriage. In order to speed up the process of nailing the lathing, you need to cut off several strips along the length of the wave step, they will be used as a template. There is a second method of speeding up work - beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice with a rope with blue at the required distance. Follow these lines when nailing the battens. The ridge must have slats, the distance of the slats from the ridge cannot exceed ten centimeters. The slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element of the roof covering.
The wavelength of metal shingles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet, select the shingles taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing the optimal performance of the roof and climatic zone. Around the perimeter of the chimney, you need to make a continuous crate with a width of about 20-25 centimeters.
Step 5. Chimney apron installation.
All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing; their list also includes metal abutment strips for the chimney. They look like flat plates; you need to cut out the technological folds yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.
Measure the width of the lower part of the chimney, beat off this value on the plank symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line ≈10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The whole part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the angle of the exit of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Do not be afraid to make a mistake, while fixing the element, the corner will align to the existing dimensions.
Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney
Start installing the apron from the bottom wall of the brick pipe. A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron, through which the water will go into the collectors. Finish in the same way side walls pipes, the upper part is sealed last.
In order to exclude the ingress of water through the stacks of the chimney under the roofing, it is recommended to drown the side strips in the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact of the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. A grinder with a diamond disc cuts a line (strobe) at the marked place. The saw cut must be cleaned of dust and rinsed. The folded edge of the strip is inserted into the strobe and sealed with silicone along its entire length. This should be done around the entire perimeter of the brick chimney. The planks are screwed to the roof lathing with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads. The junctions are the most dangerous from the point of view of leaks, very carefully perform all operations to seal them.
The external apron for sealing the chimney is installed after laying the metal tile. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron, we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. In terms of time, the complete installation of one apron will not take more than two or three hours, this is not the time, due to the savings of which, the entire roof of the bath can be put at additional risk.
Step 5. Installation of hooks for drainage system.
The hooks should be secured even before the installation of the metal shingle drip, this is very important. Eaves strips can be installed immediately after the hooks.
Important. The bottom of the eaves should drop slightly into the groove. Otherwise, in case of strong gusts of wind rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be delivered after the installation of the metal tile.
The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The total slope of the gutter must be at least three millimeters per meter of length, mark on each holder for bending lines in the desired place.
Let's look at an example how to do this. Let's say the length of the roof slope of the bath is 6 meters, the slope between the extreme holders should be approximately 6 × 3 = 18 millimeters. Place all hooks in a row and line up the ends. On the first mark the bend point, and on the last mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the points with a line, each hook will have a bend mark on it. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during attachment they do not change places. Do not be upset if during the bends it is not possible to maintain accuracy up to a millimeter, the gutter itself will eventually fall into place.
Step 6. An opening for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter, the width of the opening depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a metal hacksaw. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters, the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Fasten the groove with the metal tabs on the holders. To increase the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is placed under the hole and secured by bending the metal tab.
Step 7. On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to remove the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensate will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.
Step 8. Sheets of metal tiles are raised to the roof one at a time; wooden logs installed from the ground with an emphasis on the beginning of the slope can be used.
If the bath is two-story, then tarpaulin belts should be used for lifting.
The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the cornice and the end of the roof.
If the rafter system was made according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, put the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1 ÷ 2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end finishing element will close the unevenness of the sheets.
Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.
Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, as needed per 1 sq. m.
Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the crate at least two centimeters.
In the lower part of the fastening sheet is made in each deflection of the wave, then the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it goes under the first. This should be borne in mind and do not screw the screws on the extreme waves of metal tiles before laying two sheets.
You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, feet should be placed only in places where the wave bends.
Self-tapping screws must be tightened without undershooting or pinching. The rubber washer should press firmly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.
Step 9. Installation of skate strips.
They can be flat and semicircular and are equipped with end caps of the corresponding profile. Lay the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters, fix to the metal tile with ridge screws.
Step 10. Installation of end strips.
Align the ends, all battens should be in one line. The planks are fixed to the windshield on one side and to the roofing on the other.
If a metal sandwich pipe is used in the bath for the chimney, then to exit to the roof, you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment- rubber outlet. Its outlet diameter changes by cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.
How the outlet of a metal pipe is sealed
| Step, no. | Description | Illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1 | Mark the chimney outlet on the roof, cut a hole with metal scissors |
|
| Step 2 | Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and fix it to the battens or battens with metal strips |
|
| Step 3 | Attach the outlet base to the metal tile profile and fold it to fit |
|
| Step 4 | On the underside of the outlet, apply a layer of sealant, install the outlet in place and fix it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the fixture should be approximately 20% smaller than the diameter of the flue pipe |
|
If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from the above, only the appearance and engineering of the ventilation cap are different.
The final "touch" is the snow holders. It is recommended to place them in areas with a large snow cover, they protect the weir systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave only above the crate. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and battens. They are needed for high strength screw bolts, snow guards must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to mount the brackets on rubber pads, the snow retainer tubes are inserted into the holes in the brackets.
Snow guard prices
snow holders
Video - Installation of metal tiles
Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing shingles
Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles take a worthy place, this is a universal-use coating, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloped roofs.
In terms of price, the material belongs to the middle category. Of course, the range of prices among various brands and manufacturers of shingles can be significant, but according to the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All advertising brochures of manufacturers attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only various color solutions but also the shape of the "petals" of the tiles.
But none of the manufacturers gives photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5 ÷ 6 years of operation. Do you know why? And because during this time enough dust accumulates between the particles of the crumb for the growth of mosses and lichens.
We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating, some people may like it - a real "retro-blood". Let it be pleasant, but mosses and lichens "do not like" the roof itself, the root system of plants at an accelerated rate destroys the base of the soft tile. No "modified" bitumen and nonwovens can withstand the effects of wildlife. This means that it's time to save money for full replacement roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work on the back burner, after a few years the plywood will start to deteriorate, the top veneer will peel off. Expensive plywood will also have to be replaced. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the crate, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for cleaning moss, but they simultaneously "clean" the surface from chips and part of bitumen.
The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is also a more expensive version of thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.
| Material thickness, mm | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| The distance between the rafters of the lathing, mm | OSB | Sheet plywood | Natural edged board |
| 300 | 9 | 9 | - |
| 600 | 12 | 12 | 20 |
| 900 | 18 | 18 | 23 |
| 1200 | 21 | 21 | 30 |
| 1500 | 27 | 27 | 37 |
The table shows the approximate parameters of the lathing materials, depending on the distance between the rafter legs. The most advantageous is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step crate of unedged boards. So the strength can be adjusted independently, and the price of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will stop at this option.
Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its nodes. Flexible roof structures are much heavier than metal, the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, and this is an additional load. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters with a tensioned rope. Deflections were found - make marks in these places and eliminate them while laying the stepped lathing. The distance between the lathing boards is 20-30 centimeters.
Step 2. Start nailing down the OSB boards.
The base for shingles - solid lathing
Baths, as a rule, are small in size and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of material cuts, which means time and quality. Plates can be fastened with ordinary nails 40 ÷ 50 mm long, there is a desire to suffer and pay extra money for these torments - fix the plates with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy around the need to leave a gap between the plates, they say, it will compensate for thermal expansion.
Don't believe it. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the board if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is the first thing. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter, by which the plate can really expand, are crumpled at the edges without any problems. Try to keep the plates as flat as possible in one plane. But a run of a few millimeters should not upset you, flexible shingles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.
Step 3. Fasten the gutter hooks.
How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph 5 of the section "Rules and step-by-step instruction installation of metal tiles ". And the general algorithm for installing the spillway system, including snow retainers, is no different.
Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, fix them with a pitch of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into the metal with a special hammer, it has a sharp tooth, with which holes are first punched in the sheet and only after that the nail is hammered. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.
Step 5. Installation of shingles must be started from the chimney, lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is implemented as a kit. We strongly advise you to put the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the eaves. It is inexpensive, but it will bring a lot of benefits. Width is approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and stick it carefully, do not bend, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm, if the barrier does not adhere well - use a special liquid bituminous mastic.
Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cutting line, cut it off, remove the board and glue the piece prepared to the size. You can additionally underlay carpet fix with studs with wide caps, length of nails within 20 mm, pitch 25 ÷ 30 cm.
Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15 °, then it is better to lay the underlay on all slopes. The material is laid from the bottom up, the overlaps are sealed with bitumen mastic. On the skate, the barrier must be laid in all cases.
One more point. If the shingle profile has deep cutouts such as jazz, tail, trio, then the underlay should be applied to the entire roof.
Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, pediment strips are nailed to the gable board.
Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the studs is about twenty centimeters, do not forget to overlap the slats. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, and the nails should be staggered.
Step 7. Roof slope markings. On the lining carpet, parallel horizontal lines should be beaten off with a rope with blue, the distance between them is approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. Such a mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing shingles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of skewing the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to keep the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to observe it on difficult sections of the roof, to correct the incorrect dimensions of the slope.
Step 8. Put a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney, be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.
Step 9. Setting up the starting strip.
This is a very crucial stage, treat its implementation with maximum attention. Perform work from the center of the cornice; the excess will be cut off at the edges. This method will allow the entire roof to be made symmetrical, and this is very important for appearance baths. The starter strip has its own profile and an increased thickness of the adhesive layer. From the back, remove the protective film, carefully lay the material and fix it in a checkerboard pattern with studs with wide heads. 1.5 cm should be retreated from the edge of the dropper.
Step 10... Before starting the installation, the shingles need to be mixed in random order, do not take them in a row from one stack.
The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. A protective film is removed from the back of each shingle, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally fixed with nails.
Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the shingles, you should pay attention to the fact that their heads are necessarily covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.
There are types of tiles that do not have the protection of the adhesive layer, and it is a little easier to work with them. Drive in nails only at right angles, the caps should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; from the visible part of the shingle, the cap should be located at a distance of at least two centimeters. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.
Step 11. Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints are additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to saw through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The joints are carefully coated with mastic.
Passage element - fixation
Step 12. Gables decoration. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. The excess parts are cut in a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.
Step 13. The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then closed with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bituminous mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is pasted over with soft tiles. It can be cut out of an ordinary or broken along the lines of the cornice perforation. Secure the shingles with four studs, two on each side. Place the ridge against the prevailing wind direction.
If the ridge has an acute angle or the tiles are laid during the cold season, then before bending the ridge tiles, the line should be warmed up with a construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be installed at -5 ° C. Do not believe or experiment, work should only be done in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top, a little wider at the bottom. The wide, flat part of the factory cut will hide all the hand-crafted irregularities.
This completes the work on the roof, you can begin to insulate the roof.
Prices for shingles
flexible shingles
Video - Installation of flexible shingles
For the arrangement of the roofing part, metal tiles have been increasingly used lately. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If you wish, you can independently carry out the installation of metal tiles. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.
Works on laying fragments of roofing
The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.
List of merits
First of all, you need to highlight the following advantages:
- aesthetic appeal;
- resistance to weathering;
- affordable cost;
- the lightness of the basic elements.
Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their color range can vary in a fairly wide range.
Few disadvantages
Since the sheets are thin and large enough, there is still a risk of damaging them if they are carelessly installed. Subject to all the rules, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.
Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect during heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this minus is completely excluded.
Related article:
Installation tools
It is necessary to prepare in advance a set of tools and accessories for work:
Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.
Basic set of accessories
In the step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles, the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets should be mentioned. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational characteristics.
It is suggested to take a look at the list of basic parts:
- a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
- the end plate is necessary for the design of the edges from the side of the pediment overhangs;
- the valley is installed in the places where the slopes are combined;
- the cornice strip is attached from the side of the gutters;
- the abutment bar is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
- a snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.
Installation instructions for metal tiles: step by step performance of work
Loading and unloading of products can be carried out manually, but during the work a certain number of people must be involved. Usually 1 person is required for 1.5-2 linear meters of sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments 6 m long, 3-4 people must be present.
Waterproofing device and fixing control bars
If thermal insulation is to be laid between the rafters, then the waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is fastened with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across rafter legs with an overlap of at least 15 cm on all slopes.
Bars 50x50 mm are nailed directly along the rafters, providing ventilation gap between waterproofing and roofing material. For fixing, nails of at least 90 mm are used.
Correct installation of the lathing for metal tiles
An edged board with a thickness of 25 mm and a width of 100 mm is usually used as a lathing, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars with nails at least 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.
In the place where the ridge element is installed, it is recommended to install two strips close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tile. The same should be done in the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the rest by the height of the wave. Usually, the thickness of the lining is sufficient to compensate for the difference.
Installation of parts mounted to sheets
To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, the eaves of metal tiles are being installed. An additional ventilation tape must be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.
When installing the valley, the universal seal is laid. The lower edge of the element must be on the surface of the eaves. At the horizontal joint, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.
The outlining of a brick chimney implies the withdrawal of the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into a valley located in the immediate vicinity.
The process of laying and fixing sheets
All sheets must be horizontally aligned with a 50 mm crate outlet. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be adhered to:
- the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the crate;
- fastening to the lower board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
- along the edge of the ramp, fasteners are screwed into each wave.
Installation of end strips and ridge
Elements for closing end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The gap on adjacent strips should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.
As for the ridge, it is fixed in the upper crest of every second wave. When building up the elements, a gap of at least 15 cm is left. A self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.
Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles
The number of elements for holding snow drifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow removal, two rows of metal profiles can be installed. Through-type snow guards are optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the crate itself through. The distance between the fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.
