Dismantling the roof: we get rid of the old coating. Dismantling a roof with wooden rafters and a sheet steel roof using a tower crane Incorrect installation of corrugated board: causes of errors and how to eliminate them
Any homeowner wants to see their home warm, dry and comfortable. This largely depends on the condition of the roof. If something is wrong with the roof, then the problems one after another will begin to make themselves felt. So the issues related to its current, and even major repairs, one way or another, cannot be avoided.
Many people wonder what is better, permanent repair or replacement of the roof. From a budget point of view, it is undoubtedly preferable to patch it up carefully. However, as practice shows, frequent minor repairs are not particularly conducive to improving the state of the structure: it continues to wear out, and cracks only multiply. A more rational option would be a complete dismantling.
On a note
In fairness, it should be noted that the need to update arises not only for a problem roof. A new roof is mounted, for example, during the reconstruction or redevelopment of a house.
When a new roof is needed
A pretty convincing argument for replacing the roof of a garage or residential building will be a wet spot that spreads across the ceiling during heavy rain, not to mention water dripping from its surface.
Annual preventive inspection of the roof and roof structure will reveal the scope renovation works and develop, if necessary, a strategy for replacing the roof with your own hands:
- remove the cover completely or use it as a backing for a steel sheet.
- test the condition of the supporting structure, including the lathing;
- check the consistency of the diagonal measurements, otherwise, due to violations in the rafter system, you will get different overhangs.
Renovation work involves three possible options execution:
1 If we are talking only about cracks in the roofing, and the damage did not affect the rafter system, then it will be enough to change the coating to a new one, for example, replace it with. 2 If rot or fungus is found on the crate under the roof covering, then the frame will also need to be repaired. 3 And finally, in case of serious damage to the rafter system, thermal insulation, holes in the flooring, we are dealing with the most difficult option. Here, a complete reconstruction is required, since, unlike the previous case of damage to the thermal insulation layer, it is sufficient to justify the replacement of the roof insulation. The significant scale of the work leads to an increase in cost. The price for 1m 2 will be formed from the total amount of all expenses for dismantling, purchase and installation of new material.Dismantling
Many people prefer to change slate to corrugated board. This choice has its advantages. Professionals:
- are lightweight, therefore do not require reinforcement rafter system;
- resistant to mechanical and natural influences;
- incomparably more durable than slate;
- they can be laid independently and reliably protect the roof from leaks;
- can be considered a budget coverage, with the exception of pural-coated models.
Installation diagram
- If possible, carefully dismantle the slate, trying not to damage the rafters.
- They inspect the roof for replacement or repair of some sections of the supporting structure: replace the rotten ones, impregnate the wood.
- Arrange a vapor-waterproofing: the film is laid with an overlap without much tension.
- As thermal insulation, polystyrene foam plates are most often used either.
- The corrugated board is mounted with an overlap in one or two waves, starting from the end part. On flat roof sealant is applied to the overlaps.
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For fixing the corrugated board, use only self-tapping screws equipped with rubber gaskets (with the exception of the valley). This is necessary to fully protect the structure from moisture.
This question arises when old structures become unusable, or the roof needs to be updated for aesthetic reasons. When renovating fairly old houses, it is likely that the roof covering will have to be removed.
- When examining the frame, special attention should be paid to the condition of the rafters. The roof is quite maintainable - any part is replaceable. In this case, additional strength clamps are used. For this, boards are suitable, with which you can temporarily connect existing beams that cannot be dismantled. After that, you can safely remove low-quality rafters, since the frame will definitely not collapse.
- Mauerlat requires no less attention. If signs of decay are found, the damaged parts must be cut out and new ones inserted and securely fixed with plate pads or using tie bolts. In principle, the Mauerlat can be completely replaced with a new one, carefully dismantling in parts with replacement with new ones around the perimeter.
- Having repaired the roof frame, the covering is re-laid.
Dismantling the roof is not as easy as it seems at first glance. This requires special training.
Dismantling the roof is a rather difficult task that requires special training.
What is the dismantling of the roof covering for?
First you need to figure out what the dismantling of the roof is for.
- During overhaul houses or roofs. If the premises under the roof are not repaired, the roof is dismantled in parts, after which a new roof is installed.
- Often the demolition of a building is carried out by blowing it up or by means of an excavator, however, there are cases in which these methods are not suitable due to the density of the building or other factors. In such cases, it is necessary to disassemble the building carefully. The roof covering must be dismantled in stages, in the process of removing construction waste.
To dismantle the coating, you can contact a company that specializes in this, or you can carry out the process yourself.
Steps to take to dismantle the soft roofing
It is recommended to dismantle the soft roof in a cool period of time, when the outside temperature does not exceed 20 degrees Celsius. The reason is that soft roof consists of bitumen and, when heated, can change its properties, become more viscous than brittle. This can make the process much more difficult.
Inclined rafters are disassembled according to the principle of removing free-lying elements, after removing the metal fasteners: staples, pins, twists, etc.
There are several ways to remove the soft coating:
- Using a wall chaser can speed up and simplify the removal of the roof if the roof covering is more than 3 cm.
- Using a roofing ax (an ordinary ax that is welded to a thick pipe with a diameter of 3-4 cm), you can chop the roofing layer into squares.
After the roof covering is divided into squares using one of the selected methods, it must be separated from cement screed or slabs with an ax. All this will need to be thrown into a construction container. It should be said that the process is not as easy as it might seem at first glance, and its complexity will depend on the number of layers of the old roof.
One way or another, it is important to note that the quality of the new roofing depends entirely on how the preparatory work and dismantling of the old roof was carried out.
Steps to take to remove a pitched roof
Dismantling the roof should begin with preparatory work:
- It is necessary to secure the attic with temporary racks and girders.
- All communication line devices (television or radio antennas) must be dismantled.
- All plumbing devices, electrical wiring must be dismantled.
- Disassemble chimneys.
- Remove all advertising structures.
- Dismantling the roof should be started by removing the coating near pipes, walls and other parts.
- To disassemble the metal tile, you need to remove the ridge of the linings of the wind and valley elements. The sheets of metal tiles themselves are disassembled in order from top to bottom. After that, it is necessary to dismantle the drainage system and the lower valley.
- For layered rafters, you need to remove everything metal parts, then remove free-lying elements.
- For disassembling rafters, formwork and lathing, it is worth using a portable electric chain saw, an ax and a crowbar. If there is, you need to leave every 5-6 battens in order to avoid the collapse of the trusses. After that, you need to remove the remaining lathing bars, tie up the truss and load it with a crane onto the construction site or immediately completely onto road transport.
- All materials that have been disassembled, at the end, must be folded into bags and stored in order to be able to transport it to the warehouse.
Required composition for the job
Dismantling of the roof should be carried out by a team of two roofers, and dismantling of the rafter system by a team of two or three carpenters and one rigger. All workers must be secured to the roof with safety harnesses.
Several years ago I purchased garden plot, on which stood a barn and a house. The latter was built in the early 70s of the last century, as they say, "from what was," and by technology - "like a neighbor's."
The house with an attic was a frame structure. Outside, it was upholstered with clapboard, from the inside - an unedged board, and on top of it - with plywood. At one time, the house probably looked pretty good, but at the time of purchase it was "overgrown" with problems. And the main one was that due to deformation columnar foundation the house leaned strongly to one side.
My attempts to rectify the situation were unsuccessful - the house continued to collapse. Having weighed all the pros and cons, I decided to disassemble it. And no-opportunity - neat. At the same time, he proceeded from the fact that when building a new house, "used" material could certainly be useful for creating formwork, sub-floor, scaffolding, battens, etc.
The sequence of work was determined from the most general considerations - it is more logical to start from the top and gradually move down. So the house will not collapse ahead of time, and besides, the first floor at the initial stage can be used as a warehouse.
In order not to waste time in the spring, when it runs fast, I started work in the winter.
A few words about nails. While it was winter, I left the torn-off interior cladding boards in the house on the first floor. Immediately, he pulled out the nails with a nail puller, sorted them and put them in different buckets. The times when they knew how to build without a single nail are over, and during my work I have accumulated about 4 buckets of nails, which I planned to reuse. The savings on this turned out to be small (with an average price for 1 kg of nails about 100 rubles, it turns out - about 4 thousand). But nevertheless, even such little things can significantly reduce overall costs.
Of course, you don't have to go to extremes, trying. Of course, you don't have to go to extremes, trying to pull out every nail. Everything needs a reasonable approach.
For example, if the boards are supposed to be used for finishing in the future, then it is better to pull out all the nails so as not to damage the tool during processing. And if the board will be used for auxiliary purposes, say for formwork, then some nails can be bent.
Storage of material.
Why did I start with nails? The point here is not only savings, but also the convenience of subsequent storage. Planks with protruding nails take up about 3 times as much space. And when you have only 6 acres with an old garden and buildings on them, you quickly begin to understand that you need to save space.
The time required for pulling out the nail and for bending it is almost the same.
The storage of material must be taken care of so that you do not have to drag boards and logs from place to place several times. You need to think over everything in advance further actions during construction.
For example, if earthworks are planned, then it is better to carry the boards away from the future foundation pit so that they do not interfere with the work. It is also better to choose a higher location for the stacks. Then they will not end up in a puddle after rain or melted snow in the spring. It is also advisable to put an opaque material under them so that grass does not grow under them. For this purpose, I used roofing material, which I removed from the walls and roof.
In addition, as a temporary warehouse, I used old greenhouse... Many glasses in it were broken, therefore, so that rain would not drip on the boards, I also covered it with roofing material.
Sawdust, glass wool and safety technology. After dismantling interior decoration attic I went down to the first floor. I want to once again note that at the first stage I did not touch the racks in order to prevent collapse, but tore off only the casing.
Sawdust and small shavings interspersed with lime were used as insulation in the overlap of the first floor. Lime additive - very old and reliable way get rid of the mice. In any case, I did not find traces of these annoying rodents in the sawdust. But in glass wool they lived at ease ..
The sawdust turned out to be dry, so I also decided to save them "just in case" - I put them in plastic bags and put them under the roof. In the future, they may be useful for their intended purpose, and if not, they will be used for fertilization.
Glass wool was installed under the cladding of the first floor. This created additional problem, because it is not safe to work with it, and after so many years it crumbled in the hands, which created unnecessary difficulties.
To avoid itching later, I took precautions. First, he put on a thick cloth and buttoned up all the buttons. He put on a special helmet on his head, and on his hands - two pairs of gloves (first - cloth, and on top - rubber). I must say that I often pierced this protection of glass wool, and then I suffered, trying to pull out brittle splinters.
Secondly, I put on glasses and a respirator.
And, thirdly, in order to make the glass wool less dusty during disassembly, I first sprayed it with water, and immediately put the removed pieces of insulation into plastic bags with a volume of 120 liters. This, in my opinion, optimal size by weight and volume. However, if the glass wool is very wet, then it is better to use 60 l bags, making several holes from the bottom with a nail to drain the water.
It is appropriate to say a few more words about safety here. The work of dismantling old buildings is often not complete without injury.
For example, when dismantling the roof, I, standing on the bottom of the stairs, tried to tear off the cornice board of the pediment. But I did not calculate the strength, it came off and fell on my head, unprotected even by a cap. It is good that the rusty nail only tore the skin on the head, and did not stick into the head. But I still had to put stitches in the trauma center. Therefore, I strongly advise everyone who is preparing for such work - observe safety precautions!
Demolition and dismantling of the roof of an old house.
After the lining and insulation had been removed, I climbed onto the roof. It was already spring in the yard, the snow had melted, and the roof was not slippery.
First I removed the slate. After removing the nails, he dropped it, trying to direct the sheets down vertically, if possible, so that they stick into the ground and do not fall flat. In the latter case, they probably would have crashed. I did not plan to use the slate in the future, but proceeded from the assumption that the more carefully you remove it, the less fragments there will be, which will also have to be collected later. And I did not take any special measures to preserve the sheets, since this would significantly slow down the work.
After the slate, I removed the metal strips for attaching the roofing material, and then the roofing material itself.
Assistants.
When the roof was removed, it was inconvenient to continue dismantling the roof alone, and for this work I had to hire assistants. Considering that I did everything else myself, I spent 7 times on demolishing the house. less funds than if he had hired a brigade of "destroyers" for this. Of course, I lost a lot in time, but I won in money and in the ability to reuse materials. Salaried workers would never stand on ceremony with my boards, as they need to get the job done as quickly as possible.
Dismantling of the walls and ceiling of the basement.
After outer cladding the walls were removed, leaving a frame consisting of old beams and logs. The most difficult logs were used as floor beams - they were the heaviest. After pulling the logs out of their nests, I rolled them along the guides to the edge of the frame and dumped them down. It's easier to roll than to wear. When the upper logs were removed, I piled the wall frames in different directions.
The lower floor, which had stood for almost 2 years in the water, was damp and heavy, but its disassembly was no longer difficult for me. A neighbor helped me with long logs that served as the lower harness. (Make friends with your neighbors and help each other!)
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| Roofing | ||
| Dismantling the rafter system | sq.m | 200 rbl |
| Dismantling the lathing | sq.m | 50 rbl |
| Dismantling of roofing (except shingles) | sq.m | RUB 100 |
| Dismantling of waterproofing | sq.m | 50 rbl |
| Dismantling of insulation | sq.m | 50 rbl |
| sq.m | RUB 100 | |
| running meters | RUB 100 | |
| Dismantling the ceiling | ||
| Dismantling of wooden lining, PVC panels, MDF, chipboard from the ceiling | sq.m. | 150 rbl |
| Dismantling ceiling skirting boards(fillets) | running meters | 50 rbl |
| Ceiling joints (rustic) | running meters | 80 rbl |
| Dismantling false ceilings Armstrong | sq.m. | RUB 60 |
| Dismantling of slatted ceilings, plastic panels | sq.m. | RUB 100 |
| Dismantling stretch ceilings | sq.m. | 80 rbl |
| Dismantling of a ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard (gypsum board, gypsum fiber) | sq.m. | RUB 100 |
| Dismantling | ||
| Dismantling the rafter system | sq.m. | 190 rbl |
| Dismantling the lathing | sq.m. | 70 rbl |
| Dismantling the roof covering (without saving) | sq.m. | RUB 100 |
| Dismantling of waterproofing | sq.m. | RUB 60 |
| Dismantling of insulation | sq.m. | 70 rbl |
| Dismantling of vapor barrier and rough ceiling filing | sq.m. | 90 rbl |
| Dismantling of gutter and decorative aprons | PCS. | 80 rbl |
| Dismantling of roof tiles along the eaves | PCS. | 90 rbl |
| Removing the gutter | running meters | 80 rbl |
| Dismantling drainpipes | running meters | 80 rbl |
| Dismantling the roof | ||
| Dismantling the rafter system | sq.m. | RUB 100 |
| Dismantling of insulation | sq.m. | 40 rbl |
| Dismantling the battens (internal, external) and counter battens | sq.m. | 55 rbl |
| sq.m. | 70 rbl | |
| Dismantling roof windows | PCS. | 900 rbl |
| Dismantling drainage system | sq.m. | RUB 300 |
| Dismantling of metal droppers | sq.m. | 55 rbl |
| Dismantling the roof | ||
| Dismantling the drainage system | sq.m | RUB 100 |
| Dismantling of euro slate | sq.m | 110 rbl |
| Dismantling of insulating materials | sq.m | 70 rbl |
| Dismantling the lathing | sq.m | 90 rbl |
| Dismantling the rafter system | sq.m | 190 rbl |
| Dismantling the standing seam roof | sq.m | 190 rbl |
| Dismantling plywood | sq.m | 120 rbl |
| Dismantling roof tiles | sq.m | 190 rbl |
| Dismantling work | ||
| Dismantling the roof covering | sq.m. | RUB 60 |
| Dismantling the step crate | sq.m. | RUB 60 |
| Dismantling the solid lathing | sq.m. | 90 rbl |
| Dismantling the counter grill | sq.m. | 30 rbl |
| Dismantling of waterproofing | sq.m. | 20 rbl |
| Dismantling of insulation | sq.m. | 50 rbl |
| Dismantling the vapor barrier | sq.m. | 20 rbl |
| Removing the rough ceiling lining | sq.m. | 50 rbl |
| Dismantling the rafter group | sq.m. | RUB 100 |
| Dismantling the roof | ||
| Dismantling of slate, standing seam roof | sq.m | 130 rbl |
| Dismantling of natural tiles | sq.m | 160 rbl |
| Dismantling the old coating | sq.m | RUB 100 |
| Dismantling the solid batten | sq.m | RUB 100 |
| sq.m | 85 rbl | |
| Dismantling the step battens | sq.m | RUB 65 |
| Dismantling the rafter system | sq.m | RUB 100 |
| Dismantling the drainage system | running meters | 120 rbl |
Construction process technology
1. Before starting to dismantle the roof, the following work must be done:
a) necessary mount temporary racks and girders of the attic floor, if the latter, due to dilapidation, threatens to collapse;
b) dismantling of television and radio antennas, radio broadcasting racks and other communication line devices;
d) disassembly of chimneys above the roof as provided for by the project;
e) dismantling of electrical wiring and plumbing devices in the attic.
2. Dismantling the steel roof begins with the removal open pipes, firewall walls and other protruding parts, then dismantle the ordinary covering, gutters and eaves.
To disassemble the ordinary covering of the roof section, one of the standing folds is opened on the entire roof slope and, having disconnected the recumbent fold that holds the picture with the gutter sheets, they lift the picture with crowbars, turning them over to the next row. Then separate pictures are disconnected and lowered to the attic floor for further packaging and moving to the warehouse. The same is repeated with the pictures of the next row.
Standing folds are either cut or opened with a lapel hammer or crowbar, recumbent folds - with a roofing chisel. Before removing sheets or pictures, the clamps are separated from the crate.
3. Disassembly of the lathing is carried out from the ridge to the parapet lathing, and in the absence of the latter, to the formwork of the eaves.
When disassembling the lathing every 1.2-1.5 m in length rafter legs leave one or two battens or boards under the recumbent folds.
Dismantling of the parapet lattice, removal of the remaining roof covering from the parapet lattice to the overhang, including trays and funnels, gutters and eaves, as well as the remaining parts of the lathing and formwork, are carried out from the level of the attic floor, after which the rafter system is disassembled.
All disassembled material is placed in bags on the attic floor.
The lathing and formwork are disassembled using a special crowbar.
4. The rafters are disassembled according to the principle of removing free-lying elements, having previously removed the metal fasteners (staples, etc.). When disassembling, use light scaffolds from inventory items.
5. Packaged materials from disassembly are lowered down with a tower crane to an on-site warehouse or for loading directly into transport for subsequent transportation to a central processing warehouse.
6. During the performance of work, safety rules must be observed:
a) provide workers with soft non-slip shoes, safety belts indicating the places of their attachment;
b) it is necessary to lay on the roofs portable ladders with a width of at least 30 cm with sewn slats for passage along the roof with a slope of more than 15 degrees;
c) do not leave cut-out sheets of roofing iron on the roof;
d) it is forbidden to disassemble the roof in case of a wind force of more than 12 m / s (6 points), dense fog, heavy rain, heavy snowfall and ice;
e) to pass through attic floors it is necessary to lay a panelboard flooring with a width of at least 0.5 m along the beams.
A diagram of the organization of work on the seizure and dismantling of the eaves of the roof is shown in Fig. 7.1.
Work organization
1. The composition of the link by profession and qualifications (7 people):
Roofers Riggers Carpenters
3rd digit - 1 2nd digit - 2 4th digit - 1
2nd digit - 2 3rd digit - 1 3rd digit - 1
2nd category - 1
2. Distribution of work between performers: the roofer removes pipe openings and around them, firewall walls, eaves coverings, opening or cutting of vertical folds, detaching the clamps from the lathing. Removal of roofing pictures is carried out by carpenters of the 3rd and 4th categories, and their packing in bags is carried out by a carpenter of the 2nd category and a rigger. Disassembly of the battens and rafters is carried out by carpenters of the 3rd and 4th categories, and the packing and slinging of the disassembled elements is carried out by a carpenter of the 3rd category and a rigger.
The second rigger is located at the bottom for unstitching the lowered loads that are moved to an on-site warehouse or supplied to transport.
The works are compiled in the volume of one capture.
