Drawings of the black pearl ship with dimensions. "Black Pearl" frigate, galleon or prefabricated hodgepodge (14 photos). about the construction of the Black Pearl model based on the "Pirates of the Caribbean" saga

One of the most difficult stages in the construction of a ship model is rightly considered the torment with the latrine and the stern gallery. The mass of parts mated in three planes at once, constant fit. By the way, there was a moment when I threw reiki, yelled obscenities, it seemed that this stage would never end. But in order.

Toilet. Apple tree. Amazing tree. It seems to be hard, but it seems to be processed better than a pear. Initially almost white, turns bright yellow under oil. We cut the rails in pairs, on both sides at once.

We select on a router and make a shagreen with an awl.

Separate curl problems.

Then come the frames. L-shaped parallelepipeds. I spent half a day with the first, and twenty minutes with the last. The main thing is to come up with a manufacturing technology. First, I glued the guides to the cyacrine according to the template, then the frames themselves, otherwise there was no way.

Gallery. Linden front, pear bottom shelf.

The fun begins at the stern, where the "shelf" repeats the death of the deck.

The walls of the gallery have already been installed. The future roof is being tried on.

Next in line are the windows. We make a parallelogram from plastic. First, we make horizontal grooves. We glue the bars.

Then we turn the part over and make it vertical.

We grind it on a sander and try it on. By the way, the roof has already been removed.

Then we insert vertical bars into the windows and finally form the frame. By the way, the plastic was thick (5 mm), it turned out that all the inner edges were perfectly visible, I had to cut the thickness to 2 mm and then polish the inner surfaces.

The windows are in place. Shagreen is made on the roof.

Bad Hollywood designers created a bunch of railings for CJ. There is no higher board and gunwale. But no. We drill with a 2 mm drill.

During breaks, we make a ladder. The steps are made from one piece. The bottom "block" is simply milling.

Meanwhile, the gallery takes on a residential look. "Fildepers" slats are made with a curly cutter created from a file.

On the sides, instead of windows, there will be threaded plugs. They are waiting in the wings.

We return to the railing. The holes are drilled with a drill and drill stand to keep vertical.

We square the holes with a micro-sandwich (2 mm) made from the same file, and glue the bars.

There are many bars.

We mill the railings on the sides. First detail. The grooves are sawn with a hacksaw and finished with a square file. Then the piece is bent on the iron.

In place.

After mascara.

Let's continue.

We make cut-beams in one installation on a router. All that remains is grinding.

The railing is up. Ladders are completed. Removed parts of the velvet under the riverbed.

And for the delicious rustern grilles. We take a piece of apple tree. We pass with a millimeter cutter in steps of a millimeter across the fibers. Then, with a shallower depth along. Nuance - you have to serve in dozens, otherwise the cubes break off. You look out the window and turn it slowly, slowly. For a long time.

We insert transverse boards.

And remove the excess.

We make a groove from the bottom with a scoring cutter. That's all, it remains to take off and walk a little with sandpaper.

Now the ChZh is covered with a final layer of oil and tinted. Dries up. To be continued.

I didn’t buy all the magazines. castings imitating barrels, bottles, rope and other dregs are not worth the money that they ask for, but order similar items, but best quality and cheaper will not be difficult. To show the interior of the ship, as the authors of this model calculate, the ship clearly does not have enough frames. So if the inside is not correct, then it is better to hide it ...

I post the result of the work for today. I must say this is just a gorgeous designer. Convergence of parts by 6 points on a 5-point scale! I collected the entire skeleton to dry, and then spilled the seams with a cosmophen without disassembling it. Although everything was fine without him.

Finishing columns, beams and decks. Beginning the cladding. At the moment, this is almost everything that came out in magazines regarding the case. After turning the bow and stern frames, I will glue the remaining skin elements.

All the elements are even, there is nothing to process, the interior will not be visible, there is no need to paint, respectively, there is no need to cover the internal decks with flooring - therefore, quickly.
Now I see that the hull is much wider than necessary, plus the profile of all frames is not as pot-bellied as it should be. Anyway. Now about the construction site. Sheathed the sides with rough sheathing. I could not get one number with the aft casing, so I had to make the part from the rest of the frames for the parts. In the last issue I received, as it seemed to me, the skin of the entire starboard side - I got lost. It was the lining of the inside of the port side. Having checked them, I realized that it is possible to use these parts as starboard skin with minor adjustments. I put down the upper gun deck and the tank deck and installed a grating on it. I did not cut the hole for it - there will be no backlight. Began to make a rough stern skin.

I finished the rough skin of the hull and found a huge jamb of the manufacturer:
1) for some reason, the cannon ports closer to the stern and to the tank are not rectangular, but diamond-shaped (how, interestingly, can such ports be closed with a lid in reality? but at an angle to it !!). Well, okay, I won't fix it.
2) If you look at the drawings (even those posted on this page), it is not difficult to notice that the bulkhead with the door to the cabin is located almost immediately after the end of the 2nd cannon port of the lower gun deck, and according to the magazine - before the start of the 3rd cannon port ...

Change in paragraph 2 - riveted in vain. After installing the aft top parts, it turned out that the first high frames, which I thought were needed for the bulkhead with the door, turned out to be racks to hold the high sides. I haven’t skinned the rough skin yet.

Completely finished rough skinning. Now I am cutting veneer for finishing sheathing.

Beginning the finishing plating. Cut ash veneer "boards" 5x60 mm. First I fill in the gaps between the cannon ports, then I cover the rest of the space.

A little LIKBEZ regarding photographing the model (maybe someone will need it). I took 3 shots with the same angle, but with different focal lengths (different use of zoom). Notice how the perception of the model changes. Without zoom - the 15 mm model stretches a lot, distorting the proportions, with a moderate zoom - 35 mm the model shrinks in length and looks the most similar to what we see. With a large zoom - 85mm, the model continues to "flatten" and looks shorter than it actually is. Conclusion - if you want to "elegantly" stretch the model (or female legs) - shoot in widescreen mode (10-25 mm), if you want reality - 30-40 mm is your choice. If you want to shoot a model against the background of the moon - 500 mm is enough for you for sure. These focal lengths are given taking into account not a full-frame matrix (Canon 50d) and others like it, with a full matrix (Canon 5d and analogs), these numbers must be multiplied by 1.6.

After a long absence, I can finally lay out the fruits of my sluggish work. General form.

In continuation, a few details. Wheel barrels - ordered at the Shipyard.

The boat's turn came. I decided to order it from the shipyard (and I did the right thing). The model is simply gorgeous. Very detailed and perfectly assembled. But one problem crept in the waters - the boat turned out to be much smaller than what was needed. I'll have to order a new one - more, and I'll send this one to Queen Anne's Revenge (it's smaller and the boat fits there perfectly).

Ships in comparison !!!

Today I work as Pope Carlo and I am carving the roof of the balcony.
First of all, I glued the pie from the rulers, gaining the desired height, then with a proxon jigsaw I cut off all unnecessary things clearly along the contour of the balcony. The jigsaw takes this thickness (16 mm) without any problem.

Now I start to remove all unnecessary things with a dremel, form the roof. In the photographs, it has not yet been glued. Now it remains to cut the veneer into strips and glue on top, imitating shingles. The whole trimming and turning took only 1.5 hours !!

I continue to work on the corpus.

Details:

Balcony elements.

The lanterns were ordered from the Shipyard.

To start painting, all that remains is to modify the hoods, the bow mast and to make the bottom gadding.
Before painting, I wanted to finish the case, but I ran out of nails and all kinds of small things. While I was waiting for the package from St. Petersburg, I thought I would go crazy from idleness. The last boat turned out to be small, so I ordered a new one. This one was just the right size. I decided to put nails in the velvet and make chains on the steering wheel. I know that there were no chains on the original, but since this is a rather clever and necessary attribute, I decided to make it (and it looks prettier). Vantputtens, as promised - chain. It is easier to make them even and on the same level than any others. Although not correct, but smooth and neat. The mast is just stuck in the deck for now.

That's all ready for the next stage. We lay the deck. I used maple battens 5mm wide, 1.5mm thick.

The stumbling block in all forums is how to blacken the joints, imitating caulking. Options: black thread, tinted PVA, chamfering and subsequent patination, dark veneer, painting the ends, paper from the packaging of photographic paper, painted over whatman / tracing paper, etc. I chose tracing paper.

Cut off a piece of tracing paper. From the bottom of our hearts we paint over with ink and hang up to dry. The consumption came out small - about one and a half colored A4 sheet.

Since there is no theoretical drawing of the "Black Pearl", it was necessary to come up with the location of the beams, guided by common sense - if possible, place them along the borders of hatches and future ladders into the hold.

The average distance turned out to be 2.5 cm.

We put the central rail. Necessarily entirely, so as not to overwhelm the direction.

Cut the tracing paper into "noodles"

glue on the end of the rails.

After some time, we observe the beauty increasing with each new laid rail. The first two slats around the grill mimic a reinforced belt. The boards are as long as possible. Then he put it on three boards. I wanted to be at five, but the deck isn't wide enough.

By the end of the second day, the deck is laid out. Let's scrape with a knife. The surface is leveled well, it is difficult to make holes. Is that the knife enhances microroughnesses, jumping over them during wiring, therefore problem areas better to leave. It's all the same to skin everything.

To lay the remaining decks, the bulkheads need to be refined. I attached a template, here you can see how much I had a feed curve - the consequences of the propeller and numerous corrections. Later I extended the side with linden strips.

Bulkhead in the nose. My first pear design. Sealed the hold with molar tape.

Next, we construct the aft bulkhead. To do this, we collect a primitive jig. On the main plywood, glue the paper, on top of another plywood, repeating the death of the deck, sketch out the approximate arrangement of doors and windows on paper. The bottom two slats had to be steamed and held in another conductor.

After a while, the bulk of the bulkhead is ready.

The case is outside the windows. We assemble lattices from 1x2 mm slats.

Soak the outer part and bend on the window template. Then we glue it on the plexiglass and then glue the gratings.

We return to the decks. On the bow, we separately simulate boards around the mast (they wore out quickly and then changed), narrow the main boards from 5 to 4 mm. We make a sidebar around the edges.

The stern is a little more difficult. We narrow the 19 rails from 5 to 2.5 mm. I could not mechanize the process. I had to narrow my hands. First with a small plane, then with a self-help. The decks are laid.

Performed nailing on the nose.

By the way, here are the real pins:

The process is as follows. We do the markup. We prepare round rods with a diameter of 0.6 mm, drill holes.

We dilute PVA with water. We dip the bar, insert it into the hole, bite off. And so 700-800 times.

Then we carefully skin.

According to the script story taken from the "Pirates of the Caribbean" book series by E.S. Crispin, the future "Black Pearl" was originally called the "Wicked Wench" and was owned by the East India Company as a merchant ship, a three-masted galleon with a golden yellow hull and snow-white sails.

It is not known for certain when the ship was built, but Lord Cutler Beckett, director of the West African office of the East India Company, got it at a very respectable age.

The Slutty Wench was docked at Calabar (Africa, Gulf of Guinea) at the very moment when the Fair Wind brig, commanded by Jack Sparrow, came to port. Tailwind also belonged to the East India Company. The ship's captain, Nathaniel Brainbridge, was killed by Esmeralda, a Caribbean thunderstorm and pirate lord of the day. But Jack Sparrow, Tailwind's first mate, saved the ship from falling into the hands of the pirates. Cutler Beckett, having received Sparrow's report on how he saved the ship and most of the cargo from pirates, was so impressed that he invited him to become the captain of the "Slutty Girl".

Captain Jack Sparrow, commanding the "Slutty Wench", completed many contracts for the East India Company on behalf of Lord Beckett ... "(http://otdatshvartovy.ru/vymyshlennye...l#more-50)

All is good, but!

Britain and, in particular, the British East India Campaign, were able to establish their avant-posts and settlements in southern Africa only after the bankruptcy of the Dutch East India Campaign in 1794.
In Calabar, Scottish missionaries did not appear until 1846, and a British protectorate centered in Calabar did not appear until the 1880s.

In other words, there was no West African representation of the British East India campaign and, therefore, in the port (and not in the docks) of Calabar in the 17th and 18th centuries, Dutch ships could have been stationed.
The first white settlers settled in the south of the African continent in 1652, when Jan van Riebeck, a representative of the Dutch East India Company, founded a provision point in the Cape of Good Hope region to supply ships sailing from Europe to Asia.

This means that the "merchant ship of the British East India campaign" could not exist in nature either.

But if you forget about the English origin of Cutler and Jack Sparrow, or about the British affiliation of the "Wicked Wench", then the attention is immediately drawn to the Dutch ships of the 17th century and, above all, the pinas.

One of the first offspring of the free republic of the Netherlands (in 1582 the Dutch finally freed themselves from the Spanish protectorate) was the East India Company, founded in 1602 with the permission of the States General.

Thanks to its own fleet of solid and solid construction, the company, which received a monopoly on trade with Asian countries, soon becomes one of the richest in the world. The new merchant ship type appears. These ships had three masts and were armed with 16 to 20 small cannons, although they were not intended for combat operations. The displacement of the East Indies ships averaged about 600 tons. The ratio of the length of the hull to the width of the ships of this type was even greater than that of the galleon. To give the ship strength, the frames were placed at a short distance from each other, and in the places where the masts were installed, they were made double. The set was supported by horizontal and vertical knits. The hull of the ship was made of oak wood - in total, at least two thousand well-dried oaks were required for the construction. When cutting the wood, care was taken to ensure that the bending of the fibers corresponded to the shape of the part to be cut. A detail made in this way became "eternal". They preferred to fasten oak planks to the frames with wooden spikes - iron nails rusted too quickly in salty sea water. Meanwhile, nails were used to fasten less critical structural elements of the ship. So, in order to protect the vessel below the waterline from woodworm bugs, lower part the hulls were additionally sheathed with thin elm planks. The nails that secured this "second skin" were so close to each other that an almost continuous iron covering was obtained from their caps.

The spacious deck of the East Indian ships was free, and in the bow it was limited by a transverse bulkhead (bikgedom). The protruding bow end - the latrine, the device of which was taken over from the galleys, was limited by smoothly curved rails (regels). In a low quarterdeck at the stern, there were officers' cabins with wide light windows. A galley was usually equipped under the tank. There were many new technical devices that made the team's hard work easier. For example, a special cat-beam is used to raise the anchor. The pump helps sailors to quickly pump out water that has seeped into the holds. And for loading goods on merchant ships, horizontal winches were installed - windlass.

A couple of decades pass, and in England, which did not want to come to terms with the loss of the title of "queen of the seas", they begin to build military frigates. The progenitor of the first frigate, built in 1646 by the famous British shipbuilder Peter Pett, was the Dutch pinnacle with its high stern superstructures, blind top and rich decor.

See a replica of the Dutch Kalmar Nukel from 1625 and the first English "true frigate", the 34-gun Constance Warwick, built by Peter Pett in 1646 and compare them to the Black Pearl.