Repair of plastic products. How to fix broken products from plastic repair of plastic do it yourself
Required tool
For repair of plastic products, many tools are not required:1. The heat gun is the main working tool, with which the plastics is softened. Fen or Other heat equipment Not suitable, since they have insufficient power and heat flow temperature.
2. Construction knife for cutting plastics and mounting edges.
3. Steel spatula. Used to pressed plastic and climbing edges.
4. Flat screwdriver is used for the same goals as the spatula. Screwdriver allows you to press small areas as needed.
Important! No need to use a soldering iron or any other hot object for heating plastics.
Preparation for repair
First of all, you need to clean the product that is subject to repair. I removed the benzobak and washed with plenty of running water inside and outside. I also used detergent For dishes, rags and a rigid brush to remove all contaminants. Inside rinsing until the smell of gasoline disappeared.
For final cleaning and degreasing the working surface, I used isopropyl alcohol. Particularly successful was the fact that the bottle of alcohol was from the same plastic as my benzobac. Therefore, to use a bottle for the manufacture of lathes, the remnants of alcohol had to pour into another container.
Preparation of patches for repair
In my case, the repair was complicated by the fact that the damage was on the corner, so the patch should go a hole on both sides. To do this, from the bottle, I cut an angular element with such a calculation so that there was a good science from all sides of the hole.
It is also necessary to remove all plastic burrs and other roughness around the damaged area so that the patch fit as close as possible.
Plastic Patchwork Overlay
The most responsible moment is the uniform and correct heating of the workspace and patch. The goal is to soften plastic and make it soft enough and elastic, but save the shape and not let spread. It is important to comply with the following rules:
- Hold the gun at a distance from a heated part.
- Drove the heat jet over the surface of the part so that it is evenly warmed throughout the area.
- Plastic should not melt and flow, and even more so, smoke or burn.
Tip! When smoothing the patch, it is important not to overdo it with effort, as you can sell the softened plastic and make even worse than it was.
When the patch is completely glued, it is necessary to make items to make it yourself, without applying additional efforts (not omitted).
Check
After cooling, I scored in a water tank to check the absence of leakage - everything was fine, even if you press the patch area.
Finally, I want to bring a few simple rules For the successful repair of plastic products:
- For such a "soldering" of plastics, it is impossible to use hot tools (soldering iron and so on), as this will lead to the melting of plastics and disruption of the elasticity of the material.
- The working surface and patch should be absolutely clean and low-fat.
- Replanted product and patch must be made of one type of plastic. This will ensure maximum repairs efficiency, since various plastics have their own temperature limit of softening and fluidity.
- It is necessary to heat up gradually so that the material does not melt. If you see smoke - it means you do something wrong!
The broken part of some tool, especially during operation, can not only sway the work process, but also the mood to further work. Well, if with a breakdown of a minor detail, the tool has not failed, and they can still be done before replacing this ill-fated part. In my case, for example, the garden bar broke the pad between the frame and capacity.
Breakfast, it seems, minor, and you can continue to work. But not everything is so simple; With more or less serious load, the wheelbarrow begins to lead to the side, with which the pad broke. It is very uncomfortable when transporting heavy cargo. Then I decided to remove the second lining, for symmetry! I thought it would help.
Indeed, it helped - stopped the wheelbarrow. But she began to creak hello! The ears are folded! No oil for lubrication helps. For a long time, I did not make it, and went to the nearest Economic Store, for the detail you need, which, of course, did not happen. Wheel throughout the city, in search of the desired thing, there was not the slightest desire. Then I decided to repair the broken thing alone. Today we will look at, one of the options, how to collect together split in half, a subtle plastic lining. This Council will help to help those who fell into a similar situation. This may optionally be a lining from cars. This way you can restore any plastic thing or part. At least, as long as the original, from the store, will be purchased.
It will take:
- Pliers.
- Pin.
- Adhesive Second.
- Glue composite, type "Cold welding".
- Drill, thick in the cooked pin.
- Bor machine or small drill.
- Little grinding drive for boron machine.
Repair of broken details
To begin with, you need to check whether any other pieces have fallen off and study in more detail the repair object. If the repaired part has ribs of rigidity, then the longitudinal will have to remove. You can do this with the help of pliers and boron cars with a small grinding disk.
Further, in the most thick-walled places, the drill is two millimeters, you need to drill holes inside the part. Like this:
A depth of 4-5 millimeters. We will need these holes for the reinforcement of the part. For greater strength. Next, we take the harvested pin, we straighten it, and scroll (or we bite the bruises - to someone as convenient!) On eight millimeter pieces.
Now, with the help of a match, or a thin wiring, lubricate the holes on the drilled half of the broken part, and stick into the holes of the pins obtained from the pin.
We do everything extremely damagedly so that the glue does not grab in empty holes. Next, drills the holes in the second half of the broken item. Strictly opposite the pins sticking out of the first half. If everything happened as it should, lubricate both halves in the split place the second glue, and stick together in each other.
It is necessary to squeeze the glued parts. At least tween seconds so that they grab.
Now the queue of composite glue. I use the type "Cold Welding" - very comfortable glue. With it, there are not so many of the way as, for example, with liquid components of epoxy glue. And he freezes it much faster, and according to reliability they are the same.
In general, we are barely, or cut off, from the total mass you need a piece, spray palms with water, and thoroughly stir and knead the glue into the palm. Before receiving a homogeneous mass.
Next, lubricate the second glue interior surface Repaired detail, the one with which we broke the longitudinal ribs of rigidity. And they sculp on the glove of the glue surface cold welding.
Plastics firmly entered our lives. In many cases, plastic parts turn out to be more convenient, lighter, cheaper, and sometimes stronger metal. But there is nothing eternal. Of course, the broken item is easiest to replace. And if it is impossible, it makes sense to try to repair.
Repair of broken plastic parts is most often advised by welding. Qualitatively performed welding gives durable, and after appropriate processing - almost imperceptible seam.
Unfortunately, welding is not always applicable. A significant part of the plastics used in industry belongs to reactoplasts and is not welded in principle. It is very difficult to weld fine plastic parts of complex shape, which when heated is easily boxed. And in general, it is not easy to perform good welding. It is worth a little longer - and seam will be fragile, slightly overlay - and the plastic of the details will begin to collapse.
Therefore, at home, more appropriately broken plastic part glue. All stages of work Consider on the example of one of the plastic parts of the inner lining of the car's interior.
The edge was the edge of a thin plastic plate, through a hole in which the part was attached to the body. Plate thickness about a millimeter. The welding immediately disappeared, because when heated to the melting point, the thin plate is inevitably quenched. Let's try to glue!
Plastics used for the manufacture of parts are extremely diverse. The industry uses several dozen different types of plastics, each of which has its physical and chemical properties. Therefore, before starting repair, it is necessary to determine the type of plastics from which the item is made.
How to determine the type of plastics?
If the size is not too small, then it is quite carefully examined. Somewhere in a secluded place from the inside, several letters will be revealed - detail material code. Nearby, the date of manufacture can be applied, and for the parts of the car - the part number on the catalog of spare parts.
If the detail of imported production, the designation is likely to be applied inside or next to the processing code - the triangle of three closed arrows on each other.
The codes of the alphabetic designation of plastics are standardized. Most often found:
ABS - acrylonitrilbutadienstyrene (very widespread material, especially for large parts of external and interior decoration cars, buildings household appliances, toys)
PA - polyamide (due to wear resistance, especially with additives graphite, talc, fiberglass, oil is widely used for the manufacture of rubbing parts, gear gearboxes)
PC. - Polycarbonate (transparent polymer used in the manufacture of lenses, CDs, headlights and lanterns, also widespread cellular polycarbonate in the form of sheets with a cellular structure)
PE - Polyethylene (Packaging film, boxes, cans, garden equipment, plumbing and sewer pipes, toys)
Pp. - Polypropylene (Packaging film, bags, sewer pipes, disposable dishes)
PUR - polyurethane (shoe sole, shock absorbers, other elastic parts with high wear resistance)
Other designations can be found in the entire list of symbols of technical plastics according to ISO 1043-1.
Meet I. combined types. For example, a labeling turned out to be repaired ABS + PC..
A abs-plastic and polycarbonate mixture is widely used precisely for the manufacture of car parts, so no errors.
What plastic can be glued?
Engineer-technologist of industrial production will say that you can glue any plastic. But he will also say that plastics are divided into three groups:
- lightweightrequiring minimal surface preparation: ABS plastic (ABS, MABS), polyacrylate (PAK), polycarbonate (PC), cellulose-based plastics (CA, CAB, SAR, CN, CP, STE), polyvinyl chloride non-controlled (PVC-U) , plastics based on epoxy resin (EP)
- conditionally lungsrequiring minimal surface preparation and selection of special glue or soil: some varieties of polyamide without fillers (PA), polystyrene (PS), polyvinyl chloride plasticized (PVC, PVC-C), polyester plastics (Peek, Peest, PEI, rivers, Pesu, PEUR )
- empty blocksrequiring special physico-chemical surface preparations: polyformaldehydes (CF, FF, MF, PF, UF), shockproof polystyrene (PS-HE), polypropylene (PP), polyethylene (PE), polyamides (PA)
At home, it makes sense to repair parts from plastics first and, sometimes, the second group. For example, polystyrene is perfectly glued, if you use dichloroetane or toluene glue (glue for plastic models).
The repaired part of the ABS plastic and polycarbonate mixture also relates to a group of lightly skidded parts and is well glued with almost any universal glue. In this case, the maximum strength of the seam will provide epoxy adhesive EMP, produced in Dzerzhinsk.
The glue is prepared in accordance with the instructions (10-12 parts of the hardener per 100 parts of the resin). It is very convenient to mix epoxy resin in a polypropylene disposable cup. Epoxico has a very weak adhesion to polypropylene, so the frozen residues from the glass are easily removed. Yes, and throw out this cup either does not feel sorry.
How to prepare surfaces for gluing?
When preparing plastic parts for gluing, it is more correct to follow the instructions for gluing attached to the glue. IN general Preparation is B. stripping Surfaces shallow emery paper and declaring Organic solvent. For plastics it is better to use ethyl alcohol, since in gasoline or acetone, some plastics can be dissolved or swell, which will reduce the strength of the adhesive seam.
Epoxy glue is applied with a thin layer on one or both glued surfaces, parts are combined and fixed. Unlike contact adhesives, epoxy resin does not require strong pressure, fixing the compound can be ensured, grabbing the details with threads, rubber bands or liners. After 1-2 hours fixing devices it should be removed. First, it will be much more problematic to tear them much more problematic. And secondly, the final polymerization of epoxy resin without external pressure will not allow internal stresses in the seam.
Gluing plastic parts with amplification
When gluing thin items, even the best glue cannot provide sufficient adhesive strength. The fact is that the strength of the seam depends on square in contact details. In this case, the fragments of the part are in contact only by the thin surface of the fault. Here it is advisable to apply reinforcing liningMoreover, the place of the gluing is not in sight.
If the debris succeeds to find, then the work is simplified. To begin the fragments, you should try to glue in place by any suitable glue. You can use instant cyanacrylate glue "second" or pin polyurethane "moment".
After that, the paper is made of the enhancement overlay. Of particular accuracy here is not required, since the cover is then processed at the place.
For the lining it is best to use fibercistitol, You can even foil. It is a very durable and resistant epoxy-resin basis. The thickness of the lining is selected based on the size of the part, in this case it is enough 1.5 mm. Cutting the glasskestolit is comfortable with a metal-cutting or cutting disk of a manual engraver. Large parts can be cut by a corner machine ("Bulgarian").
The pad is glued in the usual manner with exposure for the final polymerization of epoxy resin at least 24 hours. The final processing of the contour of the contour of the part is made with a file or engraver cutters.
In this way, the plastic part is strengthened by consideration significantly exceeds the source.
Manufacturers love relatively cheap, malleable and lightweight plastic. And car owners have the reason to love him - details from this material. And therefore, there is no need to regularly rip the replacement of damaged parts.
Before we tell you how to repair plastic products, pay attention to some of their features. Today manufacturers are used different kinds plastics, including ABS plastic, polypropylene, polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride and others. All of them have different properties, sobefore starting repair, it is necessary to find out what material you have the case. Marking to help you - it is on any detail. Trying to cook two details from of different plasticYou wasting time: a compound, for example, polypropylene with ABS plastic will be fragile, and therefore extremely short-lived.
Let's go back to repair and tell how to fix plastic parts with glue and soldering. Before us is a damaged spare part. Baister!
Solution 1. Bearing
This method of repair is quite simple. It will be necessary for him, we have dichloroethane, it is most affordable and perfectly glue ABS plastic. You will also need a brush, better - synthetic. It is convenient because after the first use, the glued hardened hairs can be cut, and the remaining part of them heat, the hairs are fluffy, and the brush will still serve.
So, we take the brush, wetting in dichloroethane, we apply it to the glued parts or parts - first one, then to another. The composition is better to put in two layers, since the first, preliminary, starts to actively eat plastic ... We apply parts to each other, press and wait. Dichloretan dry for quite a long time, up to six hours. Showing patience, get a whole detail!
Solution 2. Schella
Essentially cook plastic detail In place of damage, you can in two ways - using a hairdryer and a plastic rod or a soldering iron and a brass or copper grid. But for a start, we will tell you about the device, with the help of which we will carry out work.
Usually for soldering use powerful large hair dryers (they are also called technical). But it is inconvenient to work: such feies are cumbersome, heavy and warm the large surface. thereforewe preferred a simple soldering station with a soldering iron and a slight compact hairdryer. It should be inexpensive, in the area of \u200b\u200b3000 rubles - the price may vary depending on the configuration. Incoming the set of solders used to repair radio components, we will not need.
Method 1. Repair with a hair dryer and a rod
Remove the hairdryer from the station. I exhibit the temperature of 300 ° C needed to solder the ABS plastic. In the course of the performance of the work, the temperature should be adjusted if the plastic will melt too much or, on the contrary, not enough.
We warm up with the help of a stem, so that it becomes soft and almost started to melt, the same is done with a damaged area on the details. The response part must necessarily be well breeding, otherwise the grip will be bad, and the resulting connection is fragile. If the plastic is repaired by the part, it means that the process goes correctly.
Method 2. Repair with a soldering iron and grid
To fulfill this work we put a flat nozzle on a soldering iron. Standard sharp tip is inconvenient to press the grid. By the way about her. You can use a brass or copper mesh - large or small-scale structure. A piece of brass grid is approximately 250x200 mm in size costs about 250 rubles. The larger grid will cost cheaper, it can also be used, but be prepared to spend more time.
To begin with, align and fix the damaged area so that the surface does not play during the repair process. To do this, connect the edge of the cracked in some places, binding them to the soldering iron, and let it cool. After that, we apply the grid and begin to put it on. We have not a very powerful soldering iron (about 45 watts), so we set the maximum temperature so that the process goes faster.
We begin to draw the grid into plastics. The reinforced surface is obtained, neat and quite beautiful. Such a way, it is convenient to connect cracks, for example. Work is easy and relatively simple. The main thing is to ensure that the grid is completely wpyana. When everything is ready, we give plastic cool. Check. We had a sufficiently strong connection. The surface is slightly walking, because we did not fix parts from the outside. To get a more rigid connection, you can solder the rod here, after which it is possible to remove the surplus of plastic and paint the item.
Repair of plastic parts is a painstaking process, but relatively simple and budget. At the same time, you can choose the most convenient method of fixing and, having spent some time, do not waste extra money.
Repair of plasticwith the help of industrial hair dryer is the most optimal and reliable option. Such a welded seam will not give way to any other part of the part, and if on the inside, screw the one more thick layer on the inside, then the strongest site will be obtained.
It may seem why other methods of restoring plastic Moto and auto parts are needed, but everything is not so simple - you need to have appropriate skills before we take for repair. Experts recommend trying on unnecessary plastic with a crack "to fill arm" before we take directly for repair of plasticdetails of a motorcycle or car.
The first test will show that you are most likely simply deforming the item or decryrable seam - such repair work will not bring any result. In addition to the practice, a financial question arises - for conducting such works, it will be necessary directly to the hair dryer, with the possibility of adjusting the air supply and setting up temperature modes - such a product will cost about 3-5 thousand rubles + special nozzles.
If such costs do not scare an ordinary user, then you can proceed directly to repair plastic with your own hands.
We select the necessary material and tool for repairing plastic
For execution plastic repair with your own handsYou will need the following materials:
- Industrial dryer. Experts recommend using models from eminent brands, such as Makita, Bosh, Hg, etc. Read the reviews and see for yourself - these models are very practical, durable and reliable. With them, you can safely repair parts from plastic for several years. Some wizards use hair dryers for spike - they are ideal for spike crawls;
- A set of special nozzles, diameter from 5 to 8 mm. In most cases, sold separately from the most hair dryer. Depending on the brand, it can cost from 100 to 800 rubles. For example, on the same Makita, one nozzle costs about 600-700 rubles;
- Plastic for solder. It should be remembered that plastic should be identical plastic parts. It can be purchased in a specialized store or cut it yourself, using old identical parts. Usually, the "store" solder is sold in motges - it is convenient and practical.
To repair plastics, you can use additional devices, such as:
- Grinding machine - it will be necessary to the seam grinding wint. It is not necessary to buy it, because for such purposes, a stack or set of files is perfect;
- Multiple clamps for fixing seam. They can be purchased in any constructionarket.
If everything is equipped, then you can safely begin to perform work.
Step-by-step plastic repair instructions
Consider plastics repair Step by step to become clear even inexperienced repairman:
- Initially, it is necessary to know the composition of the material from which the damaged part is made. Pay special attention to the fact that the plastic of the solder must be identical to the plastic being repaired. Given this factor, the wizards set the necessary air heating temperature - in the event of a solder inconsistency and the part itself, one of the materials do not warm up and simply falls off. Or it will happen overheating and the part, as the solder "swallow", which will lead to a planning result. The material index (plastic part marking) can be found by looking at the back side of the repaired component. In most cases, there are three main types of plastic: PP (polypropylene parts), ABS (products from acrylonitrile, butadiene and styrene), and finally, RA (parts made of polyamide);
- Stripping details before repair work. Before starting restoration work, the edges of the crack damaged part must be carefully cleaned to get rid of the protruding plastic and chipping teeth. Data manipulation is easy to produce with a file or emery paper - specialists are recommended to clean 5-10 mm from the edge of the fault on each side;
- Build details. In case the item has reached several separate pieces, the master will have to sweat and collect the item on the manner of puzzle. Each individual element will have to cleaned around the edges and set to a right place. So that the "assembly" falls apart, the whole mosaic is fastened with clamps (similar to small clothespins). The cost of them is small and they can easily get them in any construction store (the price does not exceed 70 rubles per 1 pc.);
- Welding work. We take one rod (solder), frying his tip and gently press it to the edge of the purified fault. As heated, we begin to heat the solder and plastic. When properly exhibited temperature mode And the level of air supply, we begin welding, warming the twig and leaning it to the heated part. The jet of air, herself will press the heated plastic, so do not do anything with their hands.
All, we have completed the performance of repair work.
Brief results
Now you know how to restore the plastic item on your own, without referring to the specialists. After welding work, it remains only to align discontinuous welding under the level of the part and everything. The remaining only paint the item and install it on a motorcycle or car.
Video - repair of plastic with their own hands
