Rules and algorithm for cleansing coins from aluminum bronze. How to clean coins: tips collectors to clean advice
I noticed ... that if the coin was cleaned by chemistry aggressive - in ammonia pairs with the addition of sulfur .... the result may not be predictable. Patina to go to bed Known knows both stains, places dark - in places bright. I tried without sulfur - it turns out some color ... If you look casually - with a bluish tinge ... as an oil spot on the water. I tried to smear the Vaseline and in the pair ... Also, hell knows what. Patigning such coins - less ... only time is probably. But there are no bad thoughts to the hands of peace ... Today, too, chemored with them .... Here is a three ... Anterhable 2 weeks in a ferronetic salt solution. The dirt solution cleans well ... a patina on yellow coins does not touch, softens a little - to go with a brush. But this procedure does not give alignment of the color of the patina, which is on a coin stains. In fact ... I looked into the microscope on the coin - spotted, and the spotted they are almost all - not a horseradish. This is not a patina of different colors ------ The change is already in the metal - in the three-dimensional stains of the metal spots. There metal has undergone greater corrosion . Proof of this fact to me, also served another mockery experiment ... passed on the coin with a steel brush ...... the stains of the metal that had a certain color - they simply got out. Well .. and 3 kopecks. I learned it means in the solution, then went through it with a sponge of an ordinary, rough surface ..... Well, then the steel wool (I don't remember what section - I remember that glass and paint can be polished) Watters about Goya's pasta. If we rub the coin just this paste - on a cloth or polishing roller - the remains of the paste are clogged into the pores of the coin and then it is manifested. Steel cotton - from pasta gets simply an additional polishing property - but this is from my observations. When the coin is a slatcher - a brush with soap, in different alcohols and acetones do not suppose ... what they are the fuck lately .. After some kind of degreasing them ... Anyway you can see (if the coin is driving) any oily divorces. On this .. I walked Šezochochi ... I think it also copes with degreasing. Washed ... dried up ... and in a jar with ammonia and gray .. it is a stand .. which the arrows on the boot with a bonus. The result is different every time and I feel honestly - I don't really like it, when it comes well ... when it is terrible in general ... But this is not the way to become the main thing. Such coins are only pioneers. By the way, the way is still with soap ..... soap is foaming like when shaving a stall .. to be applied to the purified coin with thick bubbles ... and then the coin is placed in the vapor's pair. I forget everything .. to fulfill this trick: D Well, three. Svinet for the photo - Fotik went with a student to the regional center.
Each numismat has come across the need to clean coins. On coins can be not only patina, but also particles of dirt, dust and bloom of any color, which is firmly entry into the metal. And since many old coins of the USSR times did from a certain metal alloy, collectors necessarily need information about how cleaning coins of aluminum bronze.
Aluminum bronze coins before and after cleaning
Flip or patina on coins appears with time, since metal alloys have the oxide property. Including aluminum has a similar property - to form a films of a grayish shade on the surface of the alloy. But the depth of the formation of such a film is small, it can be easily considered at home.
How to clean the coins with remedies?
At home you can independently clean aluminum-bronze coins. But this method has its drawbacks. First, if you decide to use acids or other strong chemicals, there is a risk to the health of your body. Since strong acids or alkalis have a corrosive effect on the skin, mucous membranes, and when inhalation, vapors can cause an iron.
Secondly, the risk of damage is especially great if you do this for the first time, without complying with the safety rules. It is necessary to know exactly the proportions for the use of substances and the time for which it is worth dipping a coin into the solution. If you confuse the numbers or carry out the procedure incorrectly, you can get a damaged instance.
The same warning about the integrity of the cover of coins concerns and abrasive cleaners. Since the particles of the substance are large and solid, they can easily scratch and thereby reduce the coin. If you do not want to risk or your coin costs more than 100 dollars, use professional factory cleaners. The funds have developed specifically for contaminated coins with the alloy, from which an instance is made.
Cleanette citric acid
But if you consider this by unreasonable expenses, or the appearance of your coin suffered slightly, try using undergraduate tools. Before cleaning, take the coin and plunge it into the soap solution, and the consistency of this solution should approach thick - it will help to wash off the puffed surface dirt and wash the easiest pollution options. There is no time limit. It is possible that you do not have to use other substances. But if the method did not affect, find out what else to clean aluminum bronze:
Cleaning with citric acid. It is in the kitchen every mistress. In order to use citric acid to clean coins, it is enough to dissolve it in water in a 1: 2 ratio. Water should be twice as much. In such a solution, the coin must be constantly turned over because it can be cleaned to metal.
Some collectors consider Coca-Cola with a good solvent, so the coin can be pouring this drink and leave for a week in a glass. And after that, an instance is washed with flowing water and the contamination disappear.
If you are not afraid to risk, try to wipe the surface of the coins with a brush to clean the suede or a conventional brush, causing a little crushed soda to it. This method is the most traumatic for coin, since due to such actions, the most scratches are applied. And if there are microcracks on the coin, the soda particles will be stuck, which will be noticeably under magnification and evaluated by a collector as a defect. Because of this, the coin will lose considerably in price.
For complex cleaning, you can put a coin into a solution of acetic essence. A glass of water requires 2 spoons of vinegar. In the solution, place a coin for three minutes. Then the coin can easily wipe soda - then it will be unnaturally glitter.
And you can also take a solution for cleaning the bathroom and dip the coin into it, but not more than 2 minutes. After the procedure, the coin is worth rinse under running water to wash off the residues of the dirt.
Acids and alkali are better not to use in concentrated form. In addition, they are difficult to find on sale. If the coin is too dirty, instruct a business professional. Keep the concentrated substances of the house are very dangerous.
There is another way that fans of physics and chemistry. It is called electrolysis. With it, we will clean the coin when they will fasten it to the negative charge. And a positive charge will connect to the steel subject.
Coca-Cola perfectly cleans coins
The whole system is in this case in a salt solution. Therefore, during the passage of current through the electrodes, the cleansing will occur. In this way, the main thing is to comply with your own security.
Actions after cleaning
The shine on the coins after cleaning is not quite a good sign. Of course, the fact that you have finished the coin - good, but it remains an old copy, so it should look accordingly. Collectors either will not want to acquire too clean and brilliant an old coin.
In addition, it is necessary to protect an instance from external influences. To do this, you need to create a patina artificially. The difference of coins before cleaning from the final version lies in the fact that Patina, created quickly and artificially, will be beautiful and uniform. It will only give the type of antiquity, while not spoiling the type of coin. Create a weak layer of aluminum oxide in two ways:
Put the coin in the sun, so that the sun rays got on it. This option is longer, but natural.
Lubricate an instance with a thin layer of iodine. The procedure is faster than the first way.
Clear coins from pollution is not so difficult. Ways are suitable for people with different levels of wealth. So as not to do it too often, it is enough to keep track of the state of coins and periodically wipe them.
I think that cleaning depends on the degree of rarity coin, but initially put for 1-3 days into the solution of the economic soap, and then choose the method. Here is an article, for various coins, I wonder: Chemical cleaning of coins
1. At the beginning of the way Before you begin cleaning coins, you should estimate the need and the ability to clean the selected coin. Proper assessment is half of success, because If the coin is not cleaned, it will be lost or is spoiled forever. Before the coin fell to you, she could be in an extremely unfavorable environment for his safety, and turn into a piece of patina, inside which a thin foil having nothing in common with the size of the coin, nor with a picture on it. Of course, the correctness of the assessment comes with experience, but some techniques can use and beginner. Rule 1. If the coin costs 5 or 10 rubles, it can easier to buy another than the hour with her or two. Any equal to the consistent coin in quality not to compare with a coin, which is simply in good condition and does not require cleaning. Rule 2. It is necessary to move the target and means or, in morestally, the cost of the coin and the cost of its cleaning. Suppose you buy an expensive cleaning agent worth 300 or more rubles, you carefully familiarized with his instructions and determined that this is what you need. Make a simple calculation of the cost of cleaning one coin purchased tool. Suppose the tool will allow you to clean 10 coins on average, thus, at the cost of a product of 300 rubles, the cost of cleaning one coin will be 30 rubles. Having determined the cost of cleaning one coin it's time to think about what coins you are going to clean. Applying a coin cleaning agent, the cost of the coin personally for you will immediately increase on the calculated 30 rubles, but the cost of the coin itself can remain the same. Here it is necessary to return to rule 1 and estimate, for example, it is worth cleaning 10 coins worth 100 rubles a means for 300 rubles, or it is better to use it for cleaning coins worth at least 300 rubles each. Rule 3. Coins in a special collectible processing Proof, never clean. Any method of cleaning them will cause the destruction of special processing and in fact to the transition to the Uncirculated state. The only thing that can be done with them is to wash with soap, wipe with a dry cloth and dry well with a table lamp of incandescent. Rule 4. If the coin is covered with a uniform thin layer of patches, and all the minted pattern is clearly visible on the coin, such coins should not be cleaned, otherwise your collection can start looking like a gap of brilliant circles of modern chasing. The described case of patina only enlists the coin and protects it from further destruction. It should be remembered that after cleaning the coin, all scratches will appear and addressed, which she received for their lives that were hidden by patina. On the other hand, it should be remembered as soon as you release the coin from the patina, it will begin to form on it again. Also, it should be borne in mind that the presence of a patina for many collectors serves as a confirmation of the authenticity of the coin, and although the patina can be imposed artificially, not any patina can be applied by an artificial method. Rule 5. If you still decide to clean the coins, determine the metal correctly, from which it is made. The definitions of the type are copper, because red or, because this type of coins is called copper - half of the way to failure. For example, the royal copper is really practically pure copper, at the same time, the Soviet trifle first minted from copper, then from the copper-aluminum alloy, and then from the copper-zinc alloy. In all cases, the main metal copper, but a lot depends on the alloying metal, 5% of the unaccounted ligature (from Ligare - to bind - a mixture of metals to give an alloy of greater hardness or to reduce it. The content of the ligature in the alloy is determined by the breakdown) can spoil the coin when cleaning By covering it with lounches or a matte tint, which is then not to remove the abrasive. Rule 6. Having determined the material of the coin, determine the method of cleaning it. If you never cleaned the selected method, it is not necessary to immediately apply it on a collectible coin. The method may have different subtleties of application that you may not know, but even if there are no subtleties, the result of cleaning the coin may not be how you expected it. Best, before cleaning a collectible coin, to find a coin or a piece of metal of a similar composition and practiced on it. After receiving at least the minimum experience, you will have less chances to ruin the collective copy. Rule 7. When determining the cleaning method, it is necessary to prefer chemical methods against mechanical. When using mechanical methods such as a pin, chalk, soda, small river sand, a goya paste, a coin can get significant damage in the form of deep scratches or completely destroyed pieces of the minted image. When using mechanical methods, the faster of all is reputable, and the convex parts of the coin suffer the most. When choosing a chemical purification method, you should give preference to less severe reactivities, and move to stronger, only in case of insufficient degree of cleaning for a long time. It should be remembered that the strong reagents by solving the patina, for the most part are taken for dissolving the coin itself, so that a strong reagent can damage the coin even more than mechanical methods of cleaning, and the coin itself will be similar to a molded piece of metal.
2. Preparation for cleaning No matter what metal is made of a coin, what type of pollution on it and what method you have gathered to clean it, everything that is described here, you need to do. First you need to clean the mud coin. If dirt leave and put a coin into a dirty reagent, then gradually dirt softening and the sama itself will fall, but the surface of the coin covered with mud will be in the reagent less time, and not contaminated parts. As a result, when the patina is dissolved on unpublished places, polluted patina will only be dissolved. At the same time on peeled places, the reagent will begin to dissolve the coin itself. No less surprises will throw you dirt and when using a mechanical cleaning method. In mud slices, there can be quite large and solid particles, for example, sand sand, which scratched the whole coin, even if you apply the thinnest paste to polish, after impurities in the pasta of such grains, the coin may look like after sandpaper, and you will know about it Only when we wash the paste and fix nothing can already be fixed. Realizing all the danger of dirt in the process of cleaning, we turn to the removal of the dirt itself as such. Despite the fact that this process seems so trivial, it is also necessary to competently. The coin should be put into the water and hold it so much time in it until the dirt is spinning and the sama will fall under the action of water flow. It is worth noting here that not every water is suitable. Water from a water tap may contain chlorine or aggressive calcium and magnesium salts whose precipitate can be observed on the spirals of electric kettles and boiling. To clean the coins, it is better to use distilated water that can be bought in the nearest auto shop or pharmacy. If the distilled water failed to find or for you it is too expensive, you can use simple drinking bottled water without gas from the nearest grocery store. This precaution is necessary in order not to scratch the coin during the removal of dirt. As mentioned above, in the dirt can be abrasive and if the coin immediately start rubbing trying to remove the mud, the coin can be spoiled without starting her cleaning as such. After the dirt is removed and it can be seen that there is no abrasive on the coin, you can begin to wash the coin from dirt. It is best to clean the coin under the jet of warm water with a toothbrush and soap. Toothbrush effectively takes out all the dirt from the bottlenecks of the coin, where she stuck all her life. Many prefer to brush coins with their hands, but hands will not give such an effect as a toothbrush. Use the brush gradually moving all to a greater najm, washing the soap from the coin and washing the brush before zooming the pressure. Cleaning the mud coin, the preparation for cleaning does not end, the coin must be deguted, this is necessary in order to wash off non-dissolved water pollution. Natural pollution like a resin of trees is rare, but transparent varnishes and wax are quite often. Many collectors to protect the coin from the formation of patina, cover it with wax or transparent varnish. This storage method has its advantages and disadvantages. It should be remembered that organic solvents should be used as a solvent, it is desirable commonly consistent, such as alcohol, gasoline, kerosene, acetone, White Spirit, solvents and diluents of varnishes and paints. In no case should we apply modern household solvents and kitchen cleaning tools, baths and other things. In such funds, together with the degreaser, there are still a number of aggressive chemicals that simply dissolve the coin. When choosing a solvent should be tried on a similar metal, whether the solvent does not damage the metal from which the coin is made. After degreasing, the coin should be wiped well, because Not all solvents evaporate, for example, after alcohol on a coin, water can remain if the alcohol was insufficient concentration or the air was too wet. Now, after complete mechanical cleaning and degreasing, the coin is ready for chemical cleaning. Attention!!!. All of the above does not apply to gold, platinum and paladium coins, as well as coins, from any metals manufactured by Proof technology.
Step 3 by type of material.
Cleaning aluminum coins Aluminum coins after a while become unpleasant due to the film of dirty-gray oxides forming on their surface. From the point of view of the preservation of the coin is the best means of protecting aluminum coins. The feature of aluminum as a chemical element is that it is covered with protective films when reacted with most substances. Aluminum salts are not soluble, so they settled on the metal surface, thereby blocking the access of fresh reagent to pure aluminum. On the other hand, such coins look small, so the film can be easily removed, the coin of 50 grams of the borants, 5 grams of ammonia alcohol per 1 liter of water. Buru can be purchased at the economic store, and the ammonia alcohol in the same business store or in a pharmacy. To prevent the formation of the film again, do not wash the coin from the solution, and simply getting into it and dry under the incandescent lamp.
Cleaning bronze and brass coins Bronze and brass are copper alloys with various alloying additives that increase the strength and wear resistance of the copper alloy coins. Based on the fact that the main part of bronze (from French Bronze, copper alloys with other metals - tin, aluminum, beryllium, lead, cadmium, chrome. Accordingly, bronze is called tin, aluminum, beryllium, lead, cadmium and chromium) and brass ( From the German Latun - alloy of copper (base) with zinc (up to 50%). Frequently added aluminum, tin, iron, manganese, nickel, silicon, lead - in the amount of up to 10%. Depending on the percentage of copper, the alloys differ in color from Copper-red to light yellow), coins from these alloys are cleaning exactly as well as copper coins. Sometimes on the coins of bronze and brass, it does not appear non-peculiar for copper Patina white, gray and yellow colors. The patina of such colors form alloying additives, which, fortunately for numismatons, have similar to copper chemical properties and are removed by the same methods as Patina copper. Despite the fact that bronze and brass coins are cleaning as well as copper, there are also their own characteristics that need to be considered not to spoil the coin to the worst condition than it was before the start of her cleaning. Alloying additives have similar chemical properties with copper, but still they are not. In the process of cleaning the coin, it can be covered with a patina from compounds of alloying additives with a cleaning reagent. To avoid this problem, the coin in the process of cleaning must constantly monitor without leaving it unattended. As soon as the coin begins to be covered with the patina of alloying additives with a cleaning reagent, the coin must be removed and rinsed in clean water. The patina has begun to form you can remove with polishing paste. If you miss the point described, the coin will cover the thick layer of the new patina, which will not be able to remove the coin without damage. When using any chemical means in a reasonable price category, the coin will be simply corrupted, so if it happened to you, then you only have mechanical cleaning methods with a polishing paste. You will not be able to restore the coin, but you can give it a decent look you can. The missed bronze coin, damaged by the cobolt acetates - red. To the left to the right - before cleaning, after extracting from the reagent, after processing paste polishing To avoid the problems described above, you should not clean coins covered with point patina or those coins that can be seen that Patina is uneven. As a compromise between the desire to extort the coin and do not spoil it, you can apply the combined cleaning method, first clean the chemically, and when the patina begins to form, wash the coin in water and continue its cleaning with polishing paste. Such a combination will damage the coin less if it is immediately started to clean with mechanical methods.
Cleaning iron coins Cleaning of iron coins is less difficult than cleaning coins from zinc, but still complicated. Iron does not react so actively with strong acids, as zinc does, the rest of the cleaning methods are the same. Based on this, the main means of cleaning iron coins is the dissolution of patina from iron salts in hydrochloric acid. Use hydrochloric acid very carefully, because 10% hydrochloric acid solvent a 2-3 grams coin in a couple of minutes.
Some authors advise to apply a metal, brass brush for cleaning. Perhaps this is a good way in some situations, but there are problems: 1. The brush itself will also be dissolved in acid; 2. Iron without alloying additives is very soft metal, so, making sure that the brass brush does not scratch some kind of pressure gland (which will definitely be steel), you can spoil the coin brushing.
Cleaning gold coins Cleaning gold coins, as well as cleaning platinum and palladium coins differs from the cleaning of the rest of the coins. Gold belongs to the group of so-called chemical inert metals. The peculiarity of the metal lies in the absence of a reaction with other chemical elements and connections that can meet in vivo. For example, gold coins are not covered with a patina in air, however, despite their inertness, and gold is subject to corrosion. For example, there is a mass of artificially created by man reagents that dissolve gold. One of these solvents is the "tsarist vodka", a mixture of concentrated nitric and hydrochloric acids. If you have a gold coin, you should not feel the fate of it in various reagents and observe the reactivity of the reagent before gold, in the end there may be a reagent, which if the coin does not solit in a few seconds, then flutter. Many readers may argue, allow, but there is a mass of gold coins that are covered with a small patina - a thin film that slightly changes their color and shine. This is really found, but they are not covered in gold, but patina impurities that are contained in gold. If there is a large number of impurities in gold (gold a very low sample, for example, the golden wedding ring of my father after 15 years of lying on the shelf changed the color on dark brown, this film is erased as soon as they spend a little more finger on the ring), then impurities can create a matte View of the surface of the coin or change its color. Such a patina is easily removed by mechanical methods, but it is better not to touch it, because it will begin to form it again, at the same time during cleaning you will deprive the coin of a certain part of its precious metal, which in itself is not enough. Neither gold coins are not worth it, to clean at least any abrasive and it is necessary to clean them very carefully. Usually gold coins were made of sufficiently highly focusing gold, which was not covered with a patina and most gold coins need to be simply cautiously penetrated with soap in warm water. To do this, it is better to apply distilated water. If the distilled water failed to find or it is too expensive for you, you can use simple drinking bottled water without gas. The coin should be put in soap water and hold it in it before the large dirt from the coin just does not wash off the flow of water. After making sure that there is no abrasive on the coin, you can wash it more thoroughly. To do this, it is necessary to change water in which the abrasive is washed during the previous operation and wash the coin in soapy water. For washing, the coin should not use a toothbrush, because It may be too solid for a gold washing, of course you will not leave the toothbrush deep scratches, but for damage to polishing it may be enough. In general, polished gold coins are better to store as it is and not to try to clean them or washed, because In the process of washing, you can damage polishing. Washing the coin in soapy water, it should be rinsed in clean water and flush with a rag or toilet paper. In no case should not rub the coin, i.e. wipe With a certain nanite, the fabric relative to gold can turn into abrasive and damage the polishing. After the coin is blocked and not visible droplets of water, it should be dried under the incandescent lamp to remove the water remnants not visible. Before drying the coin you need to get into the coin, because If the coin start to dry immediately, this will lead to the formation of divorces on a coin in those places where water drops of any size were. These divorces can consist of dust that flies in the air and is captured by water droplets or calcium and magnesium salts, if you used water from under the tap. Anyway, but the sink process will have to repeat. It is worth noting that it does not follow when drying the coins apply other heating devices except incandescent bulbs. When using a heater, electrical or gas stove, there may be situations when the coin can be melted or melt. The situations are unlikely, but if they happen to you, it will be very offended first of all to you. Finally, dried by a coin, you can post it. Working with clean collectible material, do not use your fingers, they can be dirty and the sink process will have to be repeated, it is also not worth using tweezers from any materials. Metal tweezers can scratch a coin, and plastic not only scratch, they can be dropped by a coin that is even worse. It is best for these purposes to buy household gloves from fabrics that are sold on any construction market and are worthy of terrain from 5 to 20 rubles per pair or use special numismatic tweezers made of metal and rubberized sponges. In conclusion, as always, a couple of practical advice: 1. Do not wash coins in the sink. If you have an old drain, then the coin can be lost in the draining and with a certain strength of the current water do not linger in the sump and leave forever into the sewer. Even if the coin falls into the siphon sump, the situation is still unpleasant. Use a separate container. 2. Do not shake the coin from the water. You can not hold the coin and it will slip out of the hands. The result can be from a small scratch, to a significant bend, it's how lucky. Use toilet paper or cloth depending on the material of the coin. P.S. Some authors mention the presence of dark dots on the surface of modern coins. They are associated with the use of a poor-quality process of manufacturing a blank for coin chasing. Black dots are actually slag, which hit during the casting of the metal inside the workpiece. In the consequence, during the processing of the workpiece and chasing, the slag itself was squeezed out of the strata of the coin to the surface. Such pollution is impossible to remove, because This pollution is actually part of the coin, so when purchasing it is worth abandoning such acquisition and look for a cleaner copy.
Cleaning copper-nickel coins Copper-nickel coins usually do not need cleaning, because Nickel is quite an inert metal in relation to the majority of reagents found in natural conditions. Despite this, there are often coins covered with red-brown or green patina. Patina of such colors on copper-nickel coins appears if the coin contains a large number of copper ligature. Red-brown Patina is a sharpening copper, and green patina is copper carbonates. Such a patina with copper-nickel coins is removed in the same way as with copper.
Cleaning tin coins Tin, like lead, reacts very well with most reagents, so the chemical cleaning of tin coins is extremely difficult. Tin Very soft metal, so there is no need to make any cleaning with abrasive materials, even when using a polishing paste. When using any abrasive, even the finest you will damage the protruding parts of the coin pattern before, the remaining sections of the coin begin to finish. Summing up, the coins of tin is better not to clean and leave as it is, the maximum that you can do with them is to wash it with soap, and without using brushes.
Cleaning palladium coins Cleaning palladium coins, as the cleaning of gold and platinum coins differs from cleaning the rest of the coins. Palladium refers to the group of so-called chemical inert metals. The peculiarity of the metal lies in the absence of a reaction with other chemical elements and connections that can meet in natural conditions. For example, palladium coins are not covered with a patina in air, however, despite its inertness, and palladium is subject to corrosion. For example, there are artificially created by man reagents that dissolve palladium, but the likelihood of their falling into your hands is very low. To clean the coins of palladium, it is enough to wash them in soapy water. For the start of the coin, it is necessary to simply put in warm soap water and give to soften the dirt on it to a state when it simply cans with the flow of water. By changing the soap solution, which could contain abrasive from the dirty dirt, the coin should be simply washed with his hands, then rinse in clean water. It should be remembered that for washing coins it is better to apply distilated water or simple drinking bottled water without gas. In the water from under the tap, it may be contained chlorine, which can settle on a coin in narrow places of the pattern. Chlorine does not react with a coin and does not forms patinas, but it will be very difficult to extract it. The chlorine on the coin can change the color of the coin and although the coin is clean, it will seem that it covered with a patina. Washing a coin in pure water, it should be blown with a rag or toilet paper. If the coin is polished, it can not be wiped in any way, because This operation can damage polishing.
Cleaning platinum coins Cleaning platinum coins, as the cleaning of gold and palladium coins differs from cleaning the rest of the coins. Platinum refers to the group of so-called chemical inert metals. The peculiarity of the metal lies in the absence of a reaction with other chemical elements and connections that can meet in natural conditions. For example, platinum coins are not covered with patina in air, however, despite its inertness, and platinum is subject to corrosion. For example, there are artificially created by man reagents that dissolve platinum, but the probability of their falling into your hands is very low. From platinum make chemical dishes for the most aggressive reagents, which dissolve glass - the main material for chemical dishes. In ancient times, the scientists of Alchemists talked about platinum - not fire, not the ability, the essence of statements is that platinum could not miss for a long time, nor dissolve any reagents. Platinum turnplate, corrosion-resistant and durable. Based on such properties, the methods of its cleaning are followed. To clean the coins of platinum, it is enough to wash them in soapy water. For the start of the coin, it is necessary to simply put in warm soap water and give to soften the dirt on it to a state when it simply cans with the flow of water. By changing the soap solution, which could contain abrasive from the dirty dirt, the coin should be simply washed with his hands, then rinse in clean water. For washing coins, it is better to use distilated water to use distilated water or use simple drinking bottled water without gas. In the water from under the tap, it may be contained chlorine, which can settle on a coin in narrow places of the pattern. Chlorine does not react with a coin and does not forms patinas, but it will be very difficult to extract it. The chlorine on the coin can change the color of the coin and although the coin is clean, it will seem that it covered with a patina.
Cleaning lead coins Lead reacts very well with most reagents, so the chemical cleaning of lead coins is extremely difficult. In principle, cleaning of lead coins with hydrochloric acid is possible, but it is necessary to show greater caution, even even when cleaning zinc coins, because Lead reacts even better. Lead is a very soft metal, so any cleaning with abrasive materials cannot also go speech, even when using a polishing paste. When using any abrasive, even the finest you will damage the protruding parts of the coin pattern before, the remaining sections of the coin begin to finish. Summing up, lead coins are better not to clean and leave as it is, the maximum that you can do with them is to wash it with soap, and without using brushes.
Cleaning zinc coins Cleaning coins from zinc is a very difficult matter. This is explained by the fact that zinc well reacts with strong acids and at the same time its salts are weakly reacting with weak acids. Based on this, the main means of purification of zinc coins is the dissolution of patina from zinc salts in hydrochloric acid. Use hydrochloric acid very carefully, because 10% hydrochloric acid solurates a 2-3 grams coin per minute. The coin prepared for cleaning is lowered into no more than 1% hydrochloric acid solution. A coin in hydrochloric acid cannot be left unattended, it must be pulled out for inspection every 3-5 seconds to catch the moment when the acid solvents the patina and takes it to the coin itself. A method is more effective when a sufficiently wide dishes are used, into which the coin can be immersed, and holding it in one hand, the other hand gently rub the toothbrush. If you do not have a leaning to dermatitis, it is better to use this particular way or use rubber gloves. Salonic acid, in contrast to sulfuric acid, not so digly for hands and does not dissolve rubber. In any case, it is necessary to have at least half a litter of water at hand to quickly wash off the acid from the coin, and the acid is necessary precisely to wash under the jet of water, and not just throw a coin into clean water (in this case, the reaction will continue for some time).
4. At the end of the way After the coin is cleaned, it is necessary to rinse it well in water to remove the remnants of the reagents used during its cleaning. Realing residues can be in the subsequent patina centers that do not have a chemical connection with a coin, but tightly associated with it. Such a patina will have to be removed, most likely, with the help of abrasive, which can damage the coin. After washing, the coin is wedged with a soft cloth or toilet paper. Do not rub the coin, i.e. wipe Metal coins may be too soft, and with a certain effort from a rag, you can barely noticeable grooves, and polishing will be corrupted on polished coins. After the coin is wetted, then it should work in cotton gloves or tweezers. At first glance, clean hands can leave footprints on the coin, which will subsequently become centers of patina. You can use any cotton, household gloves, which are sold at construction markets at a price of 5-20 rubles, depending on the region. You should not buy gloves with rubber bursts, they can blur the coin just like hands. As a tweezers, it is necessary to use a special numismatic tweezers made from metal with rubberized sponges. The use of metal tweezers without rubberized sponges can scratch a coin, and the use of plastic tweezers is even worse, a solid plastic can scratch a coin, and you can pick up a coin with a soft plastic tweezers and it can get damage from scratches before reinforcing. Numismatic tweezers can be made of simple metal tweezers independently, wrapped it with a sponge of electrical tape and rubber. It is necessary to find exactly the rubber tape, because The use of ribbon from PVC and others can spoil the coin in the future. Do not rubber tapes are susceptible to gradual decomposition and news, as a result of which the substances are distinguished from the tape material that can become centers for patina. Despite the fact that the coin seems dry, it must be dried additionally, for this you should use an ordinary incandescent lamp. The incandescent lamp is suitable for these purposes. Better than all - a large temperature that allows evaporation of water, and at the same time a low temperature that does not melt the coin. For complete drying when using a 100 watt lamp, it is necessary for at least 10 minutes, during the drying of the coin you need to translate several times. Before drying the coin, it is necessary to get into the coin, if this is not done, then the coin can be covered with divorces and the sink will have to repeat. Divorces can be formed for two reasons: 1. The dust flying in the air is captured by water drops, after which it will have to rinse with water, if it fails to erase with a slight movement of the rag; 2. Calcium and magnesium salts that may be contained in water. They can be observed on the spirals of electric kettles and in another dish, which is used to boil water. Considering that the drying temperature can be close to water boiling point, these salts can fall into a precipitate, which can only be dissolved using acids that dissolve most of the coin metals, and therefore you have to use abrasive methods that can also damage the coin. The use of other heating devices like electric heaters, electrical and gas plates can lead to a melting of the coin. In the overwhelming majority cases, the damage of the coin will not happen, but when the listed devices faults are faulty, it can happen. In addition, the listed devices have too much heating temperature at which a patina from the coin material oxides and cleaning will have to be repeated on the coin. Now, after the coin is cleared, it can be sent to the collection.
Are you an avid collector? You have accumulated many old exhibits, but over time, they changed their appearance? In this article we will tell you how to clean the coins at home to shine!
This article is intended for persons over 18 years
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Cleaning coins is a time consuming and painstaking process. To clear the exhibit, you must fulfill a number of prescriptions that are mentioned in this material. Consider how to clean the copper coin at home. This will help if you need to clean the copper coins from the oxide, from black, from green plaque.
Analyze the degree of pollution and decide how you can help your exhibit. If you decide to clean the coins, then without soap and ammonia, you can not do. From chemical funds you need to refuse: so you can damage the exhibit.
Method 1: Soap and water
We take soap (better economic), rub it on the grater. Add 1 l of water. We leave coins in the solution for 10-15 minutes. Mud splashes, and it can be easily removed with a sponge.
Method 2: Vinegar
Put the gloves, take a soft sponge and apply a little vinegar on it. Light massage movements wipe the coin. After that, ride the coin under warm water to remove the remnants of the means. Alternative vinegar may be amazing alcohol.
Method 3: Lemon
Take a fresh lemon, cut it into 2 halves. Right in the flesh of the fruit insert the coin and leave for 15 minutes. After the time expires, get it and carefully clean the brush. At the end, do not forget to solve water.
How to clean the coin from rust?
Each collector has its own secrets of cleaning coins from rust and other contaminants. Each metal has a unique chemical composition, so you need to know what it is possible, and what cannot be restored by these values.
To clean the coin from rust can be used:
vinegar;
citric acid / juice;
soda;
coca-Cola;
salt;
laundry soap.
All these means are used by analogy with the above methods.
To date, there is no single method for cleaning silver coins at home, because here everything directly depends on their sample and the degree of oxidation. This is due to the fact that they have a different chemical composition, and, accordingly, different methods of cleaning.
Old high sample copies are purified from black for an hour with a solution of ammonic alcohol (90% water). If there is no such, then it is possible to replace with a soda solution (300 g per 1 liter of water), in which they should be soaked for about 2-3 hours. If you wish, you can boil a little solution for better effect. It must save the coin from black, which is relevant for old copies.
To clean the coin, use a mixture of toothpaste, soda and ammonia alcohol. This method is good in that there are no abrasive particles in its composition, which can harm silver. This mass should be applied to a polluted surface and thoroughly clean it with a brush.
For exhibits made of low-standard silver, the trillion method is suitable (Trilon B is a special kind of salt). It is necessary to dissolve 1 tbsp. A spoonful of salt in a glass of hot water, then lower the coins there and wait for the result. However, in order to not harm the metal, all actions should be carried out in well ventilated rooms. Next, this process must be continued by processing a special tool for cleaning silver a specific sample.
How to clean the coin from black?
Time is one of the few causes of black. In this article we will tell you how to clean the exhibits from dirt. Over time, the upper layer of copper is oxidized as a result of contact with air, because of which a special raid appears on the surface - Pathina. It looks like a black flare, get rid of which is difficult to even an experienced restorer.
However, there are several tricks that can help get rid of this problem. Alternatively, the coin can be wiped with a cotton disk, moistened in the ammonia alcohol, followed by rinsing in a warm soap solution. The main component of this alcohol - ammonia, which, thanks to its properties, reacts perfectly with copper oxide compounds.
There is another method of cleaning the copper surface - a mixture of oxalic acid, turpentor, ethyl alcohol and water. This mixture can be cleared of dirt, so degrease and remove metal oxide.
There are cases when you do not know how to clean the oxidation of the coin. After all, the oxidized coins lose their original, trade look. The method of purification largely depends on the alloy itself, therefore it is necessary to carefully determine which type of corrosion struck the metal.
There are many varieties of corrosion, the most frequent fromwhich are:
green spots - oxidized copper surface. It is formed as a result of a long stay in a wet and raw medium;
reddisted raid, most often found on the coins that were in poor ventilated space;
black metal color - Patina, testifying about the great age of metal.
There are several ways to get rid of green coverage. One of the safest cleaning with a solution of diluted vinegar. To prepare it, you need to take two spoons of food vinegar per liter of pure water (ideally distilled). After that, placed coins in this liquid so that they cannot be contacted with other surfaces and have the smallest area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the walls of the container in which they are placed. This is necessary so that the entire surface of the coin is evenly exposed to acid.
Many cases are known when coins in large quantities were placed in a small container, which led to uneven injury and the formation of spots from crude areas.
It is also necessary to purify layers in time formed due to the action of acetic mixture. It must be done several times a day, taking out the coin out. It is necessary to clean it with a toothbrush. But it should be remembered that excessive efforts can seriously harm the coin and form red spots, which are practically not derived without mechanical interventions.
This method will help clean both oxidation and various mud spots. But we should not forget that there is no good restoration to wait, since the structure of the metal is subjected to irreversible changes.
How to clean the bimetallic coin?
Resperating numismat knows that for each type of alloy requires its approach to cleaning. The most frequent problem is the state of metals, when one piece of the coin is needed cleaning with anti-corrosion solutions, and the second is in good condition. And if such cases apply the usual cleaning with acid solutions, then there is a chance to harm the second metal, which is why such defects may appear on it, as sweating, changing the chemical composition of the top layer of the alloy, the change in the primary color.
That is why the cleaning of bimetallic coins at home can not give the desired results, but it will definitely lead their surface to a better mind. For such procedures, a soda solution will be required (2 spoons on a glass of hot boiled water). The coin must be placed in it for 15-20 minutes. Do not forget about the above comment on its placement in the container. After pulling out, it can be cleaned with a white toothpaste without dyes. If such it turned out, you can use dental powder. But it should be noted that its abrasive particles can leave micro scratches, so this procedure should be carried out extremely neatly, in order not to damage the surface and do not apply microcracks.
If the above method did not give sufficient effect, you can try chemicals to dissolve lime plates and corrosion. To do this, you need to apply a small amount of gel on the surface of the coin and thoroughly wipe it with a non-tissue. If the stains do not rub off, you can try to do the same actions, but already using a toothbrush.
After the proper conduct of these procedures, the metal should find the color and glitter characteristic.
Avoidal numizes also have copies from zinc. Cleaning such coins is a very laborious process. This is due to the fact that zinc actively reacts with strong acids, but its salts have poor reactivity to weak acid solutions. That is why the most optimal option for cleaning such values \u200b\u200bwill be dissolved by the patina layer in a container with a 1% hydrochloric acid solution.
Before starting injury of metal, it should be remembered that the coin in such a fluid cannot be left unattended, because it takes it to check its condition every 5 seconds. It is necessary in order to see the moment when Patina has already gone, and the acid began for the main metal.
Cleaning zinc instances at home will be much more efficient if the container is wide enough. It is necessary in order to keep a coin in acid and at the same time brushing it with a toothbrush. Salonic acid differs in that:
it has different activity with metals;
does not harm the skin of man;
it has a good reaction with zinc and iron.
After cleaning the coin should be washed from the acid residue with strong water pressure. This is due to the fact that if you just throw it into water, the acid will be on the surface of zinc for some time. This can lead to an additional alloy etching, which is extremely undesirable for such products.
Complete cleaning of zinc coins at home is a rather time consuming, so you should not expect a large effect. However, in any case, they will gain more attractive appearance and will be added to their value.
Hello. I would like to share my coin cleaning method!. You will need a small liter saucepan for 2-3. We put coins into the pan. We pour about half with water. We put on the plate in bulk in the water of citric acid about a package there grams 5-10. We will boil and make a moderate fire that the water would not throw out! So boil for about 30 minutes, but it is necessary to look at coins, periodically pulling them out with the help of tweezers. When the coins are lying on a reddish brand, pull and rinse. Eatep 2: we take the engraving machine to wear a polishing circle more often use felt, we use the paste on the folk, and the turns do the middle Will burn! We begin with neat movements to apply to the coin of Pasya. The one we enhance the pressure on the coin, and the paste must completely get off the felt. Voals, the coin glitters as new! This method is suitable for coins in preserved, but also cleans the killed. Of course this method will not restore the eaten by metal rust and oxides! At least the walking, scoops and late Russia makes clean and attractive! An example of a process in the photo! At the bottom of the scoop, at the top of the walking, with the left of the left!
