Modern home with your own hands. From the foundation to the roof - the stages of building a private house. Budget options for building a roof

The current trend is such that many residents of large cities would not mind living closer to nature, in their own home. Demand for suburban areas is constantly growing, construction on them is expanding.

Of course, the easiest way is to hire a team of builders who will take on the bulk of the work. But for most Russians, it is common to try everything on their own, so many on the acquired site practice building a house with their own hands.

Wood has always been a traditional building material for central and northern Russia, and despite the variety of other possibilities, wooden houses have not lost their popularity at all. True, technology does not stand still in this matter, and instead of log cabins from roundwood, houses began to be actively built from a bar.

This table provides information on the dimensions of the rafter legs, depending on their length:

Rafter length in mm	Distance between rafters in mm	The size of the cross-section of the beam for rafters mm
Up to 3000	1200	80×100
Up to 3000	1800	90×100
Up to 4000	1000	80×160
Up to 4000	1400	80×180
Up to 4000	1800	90×180
Up to 5000	1000	80×200
Up to 5000	1400	100×200

So that when the walls shrink, which is inevitable to one degree or another, the entire roof system does not go skewed, (the upper beam of the wall) is carried out using sliding fasteners. These elements will allow the rafter legs to move a little without disturbing in in this design.

At the top of the rafters can be fastened in different ways - it can be a ridge board, or they are fastened together with a metal plate.
The next step is to install the remaining elements of the truss system - these are racks, puffs, "headstock" and others. The need for specific additional elements is determined by the size and complexity of the roof structure.

A crate is stuffed onto the installed rafters, which is covered from above with a vapor barrier film.
Next, over pl enki, a counter-lattice is mounted or plywood is laid - this will depend on which roofing material is chosen for the roof.
The next step is the installation of roofing material.

When the roof is laid and fixed, it should be insulated. Thermal insulation materials (most often mineral wool is chosen for this purpose) are laid from the side of the attic between the rafters. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film, it is attached to the rafters with a stapler.

Further, on the beams of the attic floor, the draft floor of the attic is hemmed, which will simultaneously serve as a ceiling for the underlying premises. It is fixed from the side room from the side attic, after laying the film, they lay (or fall asleep) between the beams. The work can be carried out, and in a different sequence, when the boards are nailed from the side attic, and the installation of insulation and ceiling boards or plywood is carried out from the side premises.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging and insulating various types can be found in a special section of our portal.

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Wooden floor installation

The floors in the house must be equipped after the roof is covered with a roof in order to prevent the materials from getting too wet if it suddenly rains.

The floor can be arranged according to different schemes, but the most widespread is the one in which a draft floor is provided.

At the first stage, floor beams are laid on the protruding part of the strip foundation or on an additional beam connecting the columnar foundation. They can be made from a bar or board, which is installed on the edge. The size of these parts is selected depending on the span between the walls. For reference, you can use the following table:

Beam section in mm	Span in mm
	3000	3500	4000	4500	5000	5500	6000
Boards	Installation step of beams from boards or beams on the basement
50×160	800	600	450	-	-	-	-
50×200	1250	900	700	550	450	-	-
80×180	1200	1200	900	700	550	450	-
bars
140×180	-	-	1550	1200	1000	800	700
150×200	-	-	-	1650	1300	1000	900
160×220	-	-	-	2000	1700	1400	1100

Beams can be fastened with metal corners or studs, but the latter will have to be embedded in the foundation in advance.

If the walls of the house are installed on a strip foundation, it is recommended to fill the entire area between its walls with fine fraction, which will become an additional floor insulation. In addition, rodents do not tolerate it, which means they will not be able to get into the house through it. Expanded clay is poured with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm.
Further, in order to lay the subfloor, it is necessary to fix the cranial bars on the overlapping beams. They are nailed or screwed to the bottom of each beam.

On the cranial bars and the subfloor boards are laid. Here you can use the material and not the highest quality.

If expanded clay is poured between the “black” and “white” floors, then it is recommended to make flooring from a vapor barrier film or glassine on the boards, and only after that you can fill in the insulation.

More often, mineral wool is laid between the floor beams. If this material is chosen, then it is better to purchase basalt, as the most environmentally friendly of all its types.

If this is possible, it is preferable to use ecowool for insulation, which is made from cellulose fibers, therefore it is absolutely safe.

It is not necessary to lay polystyrene foam or materials made on its basis as a heater. Over time, this material begins to emit fumes that are not harmless to humans into the air.

From above, any insulation must be closed with another layer, which will not allow villi and dust from the insulation to enter the house and will not let accidentally spilled water down. The film is fixed on the floor beams with staples.
Further, on the beams, on top pl enki, a ventilation bar is attached, which will allow air to circulate under the boardwalk, which will contribute to the long-term preservation of the floor.
After that, you can proceed to the plank flooring.

The boards are not laid close to the wall, but with an indent from it of about 5 mm - this gap is necessary to ensure ventilation.

The fastening of the boards to each other occurs with the help of tongue-and-groove joints cut out on the side parts of the boards. It is recommended to nail them to the floor beams not through the top, but into the groove of the board. This work must be carried out very carefully so as not to split part of the floorboard. You can use thin screws instead of nails.

The final stage in the arrangement of the wooden floor is the fixing of skirting boards to the walls.

After the construction of the house, the arrangement of the roof and roof, ceilings and floors, it is necessary to address the issues of installing windows and doors. (after a certain shrinkage of the walls has passed). And the last step will be the process of wall insulation (if needed) and their external facade decoration. How to do this correctly, you can learn from the corresponding article.

So, building a house from a bar on your own is quite possible, especially if there are helpers who are at least a little familiar with the art of building. And in order not to get into trouble with the calculations, the best option would still be to order the preparation of materials for the house in a specialized organization. The craftsmen will perform this work on a given project with professional accuracy, and you can already try to assemble the structure yourself with assistants, saving a considerable amount on this.

And, traditionally, at the end of the article - a video with professional advice.

Video - Features of building a house from a bar

Video - Errors in the construction of houses from profiled timber

Starting the construction of your own home, you want to choose the cheapest material for building a house - in order to maximize savings. But the pursuit of a low price of building materials can result in both expensive maintenance in the future, and an increase in the cost of the entire construction as a whole. How to build a cheap house?

What determines the value of a house?

The final price tag for construction depends on several factors. Materials play an important, but not the only, role here. So, the construction estimate will include:

If you do a monolithic fill, you will need a large amount of wood for the formwork. And working alone on weekends, construction is delayed indefinitely, which is also not always economically profitable.

The cheapest materials for building a house - handmade?

There is an opinion that materials made by one's own hands will be much cheaper than those purchased from the manufacturer. Of course, there are recipes for different brands of concrete, you can fold straw walls yourself or even fill the frame with sawdust.

This is economically justified in the following cases:

the presence of free assistants - it is difficult to interfere, fall asleep and press alone, which can lead to poor-quality work;
no need to go to work five days a week - otherwise construction will often have to be postponed due to weather conditions;
the opportunity to obtain equipment and raw materials for building materials at very low prices - the delivery of sawdust from another region will not be cheap.

So, the cheapest construction options:

Thatched walls with clay plastering. They are distinguished by good thermal insulation, but require repair due to rodents that settle in the thickness of the wall.

Abrolite or sawdust concrete. You can make your own or purchase ready-made blocks. In the first case, you will have to wait a long time for the sawdust concrete to dry, in the second - to build walls as quickly as possible and do the exterior finish, since the wood concrete is hygroscopic.

Clay or cordwood. Dry logs and chocks, peeled from bark, are used. They are laid across the wall on a clay mortar. The ends of the wood must be impregnated with antiseptics or burned, otherwise they strongly absorb moisture.

Backfilling with sawdust or expanded clay. To do this, a non-removable formwork is made from a cut board on the frame, into which the insulation is poured.

The appearance of the house of these materials is rather unsightly. And if it’s quite simple to beat straw walls or peeking logs, you will also have to make a coupler on top of the wood concrete. Another significant disadvantage of homemade materials is that they are not strong enough. But this is a problem of all frame houses. To hang shelves or install a kitchen set, it is necessary to provide mortgage boards at the construction stage.

Economical building materials - what are they?

If it was decided to abandon self-production by common sense, it is worth taking a closer look at the prices on the market. What is the cheapest building material? Paradoxically, almost any:

tree - can be purchased extremely cheaply in the forest belt, but in the steppe zone it is expensive;
brick - building in the neighborhood of a brick factory, you will be able to buy red brick at manufacturer's prices;
aerated concrete and foam concrete - lightweight and relatively simple material to build, has good thermal insulation;
frame construction is the most budget option, suitable for any climate, but requiring the organization of forced ventilation.

Not every carpenter can assemble a log house with high quality, so you will also have to take into account the cost of the work of builders. The same applies to a brick house - the skew of the masonry will result in a large-scale alignment of the walls.

So when choosing materials, you need to take into account the cost of working with them. For example, aerated concrete is laid on a special glue, due to which the gaps between the blocks are minimal.

This allows you to save on fine finishing, but requires care from builders. Foam concrete does not differ in the quality of geometry - the blocks can be skewed and differ in size. It is unpleasant to work with such material, it is difficult to level the walls.

As a result, the cost of work is higher.

How to globally save on construction?

Not only building materials can reduce the cost of building your own home. To save as much as possible:

Think over the plan of the future building. The simpler the layout, the cheaper it is to equip it. You should not plant bathrooms at different ends of the building - laying pipes will cost a pretty penny. Placing the kitchen next to the bathroom will also save on pipes. The even geometry of the walls, the absence of non-functional niches and differences in floor heights, although they look simple, do not require extra costs. Together, this will give up to 20% savings on the total cost.

Refuse architectural excesses. Balconies, terraces and a tiered roof can increase the value of a home by 10-15%. It is much more rational in the future to build a small gazebo or attach an open terrace.

Use building materials produced in your region, abandoning the popular and advertised ones. This will allow not only to buy them cheaper, but also not to overpay for delivery. So, houses made of shell rock in the Altai Territory are among the most budgetary, but Moscow cannot boast of a low price for this material.

Lighten the truss system as much as possible using lightweight roofing materials. Then, instead of a 10x10 cm beam, it will be possible to use a 5x10 cm board laid on the end, while not reducing the pitch of the rafters.

Get rid of the basement. Filling, waterproofing and roughing out the basement will add another 20% to the estimate.

The choice of building materials

If the building materials market offers several types to choose from, that's great. Indeed, in this case, you can compare all the advantages and disadvantages and purchase materials that combine low price and good quality.

General features to look out for:

durability - if the house is idle for a maximum of 10 years, savings on materials are rather doubtful;
ease and accessibility of installation - the need to use heavy equipment at a construction site can negate all the savings;
environmental friendliness - maintaining natural humidity in the house is achieved through "breathing" materials, otherwise you will have to take care of forced ventilation;
heat capacity and thermal insulation are two parameters responsible for future efficiency, because the house should not only be cheap during construction, but also during operation.

Having considered the most popular of building materials, you can choose the most suitable option for yourself.

Wooden houses

Timber houses are considered the most environmentally friendly and one of the best in maintaining an optimal microclimate. A wooden building has the following advantages:

But such a structure also has disadvantages. So, the quality of literally every log is very important - an undried tree will begin to twist, longitudinal cracks may appear, the ends must be “plugged” with an ax to prevent waterlogging of the tree due to precipitation. If, however, to deviate from the classical processing of logs in favor of the use of modern antiseptic and flame retardant solutions, the house ceases to be environmentally friendly.

Ready-made kits are expensive, but only professionals can assemble an inexpensive log house from round timber. After all, you have to customize every log! In addition, in regions with cold winters, the thickness of the walls of a wooden hut should be at least 50 cm to ensure minimal heat loss during the heating season. Finding logs of this diameter will also cost a pretty penny.

To let the house "breathe", it cannot be insulated with polystyrene foam, only with vapor-permeable mineral wool. And so that the insulation does not get wet, be sure to arrange a ventilated facade. There are also certain limitations for interior decoration - it is better to use modern vapor-permeable membranes if you plan to cover the house with plasterboard or clapboard.

But the log house is beautiful in its original form. To get a cozy and windproof house, you need to regularly check and caulk the cracks in the walls. Particular attention is paid to the system of corner locks - simply cutting into half a tree will not provide the necessary insulation and will lead to the formation of cold spots.

brick houses

Brick has excellent heat capacity. This means that when the heating is started, the house will warm up for a long time, but then it will cool down just as long. For permanent residence - a great option. But for a country house visited on weekends, this will become an irrational waste of money on heating. After all, while the house warms up, it is already necessary to leave back to the city.

For one-story buildings, walls of 1.5 bricks will be enough. But such a thickness of the walls is completely unsuitable for winters, where the temperature drops to -20 degrees.

In order not to increase the cost of brickwork, the house will have to be insulated from the outside. What is especially nice when building brick buildings - you can use any insulation! So, by choosing foam plastic with a thickness of only 5 cm, you can reduce the heat loss of the house from 125 kWh per square meter to 53 kWh per heating season. In other words, you can halve your heating bills.

The disadvantages of brick houses include:

a large weight of the building - you will need a recessed strip foundation, which will significantly increase the cost of construction;
the duration of the construction - a team of five people can raise a box at home in three weeks, subject to continuous work, but alone, the time increases significantly;
finishing work - if you can live in a log house immediately after construction, a brick house requires a mandatory screed of walls and floors, followed by a fine finish.

Houses from a gas block or foam block

These buildings have all the advantages and disadvantages of brick houses. At the same time, they also have their own characteristics:

At the same time, the price per cubic meter of brick and gas block is almost the same. And given the need for insulation along the facade, the advantages of aerated concrete over ceramic bricks are rather illusory. But due to the large size of the blocks, building a house is quite simple, which determines the low cost of the work.

frame houses

For those who are really on a tight budget, frame construction is a real salvation. A house on a wooden frame with mineral insulation is many times cheaper than all previous options. And that's why:

But, despite the obvious advantages of frame construction, preference is still given to brickwork. All because of no less significant shortcomings:

On the other hand, approaching the construction of a frame house wisely and without saving on building materials, you can get a good and reliable structure that will last for decades. And in the future, the frame is just as easy to disassemble and put in its place a capital brick house.

You can build a small and cozy house in a few months, and this video confirms this:

Recently, fewer people want to live in a cramped and stuffy city, preferring to move to their own country house. It would seem, what are the problems? You just need to sell an apartment and buy real estate outside the city. But this property is, alas, several times more expensive than the largest apartment.

Do not despair, there is a way out - to build a house on your own. If you figure it out, there is nothing complicated in building a house, the main thing is to draw up an action plan and follow it clearly.

The problem of cheap housing is becoming more and more urgent. Many scientists have worked on it, and some have achieved some success. Among them, it is worth noting Berok Khoshnevis, a professor from the USA who developed a 3D printer. This device is capable of building a house with a total area of 300 m² in a day. Agree, not a single even the most experienced team is able to invest in such a period.

But the cost of a 3D printer (in fact, as well as its operation) is very expensive, not everyone can afford it. Therefore, during construction, it is more expedient to use a less expensive way to save money - to use cheap building materials.

Cheap DIY home: where to start?

We will immediately make a reservation that an unauthorized building must be legalized and you need to register it as property. To do this as quickly as possible, follow all state standards. First of all, draw up a competent plan of the site and the future home (it is better to entrust this matter to a qualified architect). In this plan, engineering communications are distributed, the method of pouring the foundation and building materials are selected. With a plan in hand, you can easily bring an inexpensive home project to life.

In addition, during the preparatory work, determine the order of construction. It will look something like this:

foundation pouring;
construction of the "box" of the house;
carrying out all necessary communications;
floor laying;
roof construction (preferably in autumn or spring).

Following a simple technology, you can easily build a cozy inexpensive house.

Stage one: foundation of the house

Step 1. First of all, decide what type of foundation is suitable for the soil in your area. Dig a meter-long hole, if the soil is sandy, clay or rocky, and there is no water at the bottom, then you can safely build a strip foundation about 70-80 cm deep. But if there is still water, then the depth of the base should exceed 1 m.

Step 2. Then remove the top layer of earth and mark the perimeter. Focusing on the markings, dig a trench of the required depth and fill the bottom with a sand cushion.

Step 3 Build the formwork using boards or plywood. Then mix the mortar for the foundation using cement, crushed stone and coarse sand. In this case, the thicker the solution, the stronger the base (ideally, the consistency should be like that of thick sour cream). Make the width of the foundation 20 cm more than the width of the walls. Be sure to reinforce it with metal fittings.

Step 4. Install a waterproofing layer - this will prevent the formation of cracks in the foundation and, therefore, increase its service life. Use roofing material for this, laying it in two layers at ground level. After that, build the base to the required height.

Step 5. After the insulating layer, lay out the foundation with concrete blocks or bricks. Make ventilation holes in two opposite walls to prevent moisture from rising in the floor. Then give the construction a little time to dry and lay the waterproofing (you can use any available material here).

Note! The final drying and shrinkage of the foundation will come only a few months after construction, so do not rush to build walls.

Stage two: walls

There are two ways to build walls.

A more reliable and, accordingly, expensive way is to build reinforced columns at the corners of the future house. Gather the reinforcement rods into a “bundle”, place them in the corners and fill them with concrete. In this case, you first need to build wooden formwork and after that start pouring.
If for one reason or another you cannot use the first method, then when building walls, simply strengthen them with reinforcement.

For walls, use one of the following materials:

foam concrete;
brick;
shell rock;
adobe;
clay and glass bottles.

The cheapest of them is foam concrete, but it will not allow the walls to "breathe". Shellfish is more expensive, but it is recommended by experts in the construction of inexpensive houses. Window and door openings in this case will need to be strengthened, so equip them with metal corners.

The already finished "box" needs to be insulated. Use glass wool and brick for this. Lay the brick on the outside of the "box" so that there is a small gap between it and the shell rock. Fill this gap with glass wool - such material will not only insulate the house, but also protect it from the penetration of insects and rodents.

Note! Not all partitions can use drywall or brick. In the central part of the house, there should always be load-bearing walls erected taking into account the underlying communications (that is, with places left under them).

For load-bearing partitions, use metal profiles - install them, sheathe them with drywall and plaster.

Stage three: communications

Any house, even the cheapest one, needs water supply, heating and other communications. At the same time, all communications must be carried out after coordinating them with specialists - this will be a guarantee of safety and correct installation.

Heating

Use a gas boiler as a heat generator. This will significantly reduce heating costs, especially in winter. And in view of the fact that the cold comes mainly from the ground, give preference to a “warm floor” - make it from plastic pipes and fill it with a concrete screed. This will heat the whole house, but if this does not seem enough, then install the main heating system.

Another heating option is alternative, based on the use of solar and wind energy. Having built a solar battery with your own hands, you will not freeze in your house even in winter.

Plumbing, sewer system

Lay both communications before finishing and pouring the floor. Decide in advance on the location of rooms and household appliances that need drainage, and lay pipes in accordance with the plan.

If central sewerage and water supply are not available, you should think about building a small septic tank, for example, from Eurocubes or concrete rings, as well as water supply. As a source of water, you can build a well or drill a well. However, the second option will hit your pocket hard.

Stage four: floor

At the end of the installation of communications, fill the floor with a concrete screed. Then cover with any suitable material - linoleum, tile, laminate, etc. Nevertheless, it is recommended to use tiles, as the most practical and damage-resistant material. It is easy to clean, and when using "warm floors" it will never be cold. Moreover, you can pick up the cheapest tiles and cover it with cozy paths.

Stage five: roof and ceiling

At this stage of work around the walls, build a concrete belt for attaching the beams. Then, having laid the beams, fill the boards from below. When building a two-story house, it is better to use concrete slabs for flooring.

For the roof, first assemble the facing grid - this is necessary in any case, regardless of the roofing material you choose. Lattices can differ only in a different step of the beams. It is recommended to use one of the following materials (due to financial considerations):

ondulin;
metal tile;
corrugated board;
slate.

From eco-friendly materials, wood, straw, reeds are applicable.

Whatever material you choose, the roof must be insulated. Use glass wool for this - this is the most affordable and easy-to-install material.

Completion of construction. Interior arrangement

The construction of the roof is the last stage in the construction of the house. Then you can proceed to the interior decoration. There are a lot of technologies and methods of interior design, almost all existing design projects can be done by hand at little cost.

In a word, everything depends only on the richness of your imagination. Stretch ceilings can be an excellent option - having a relatively low cost, they will visually expand the free space with their glossy finish. They perfectly reflect the light, while creating an unusual effect.

Also, arches and openings look good in the interior (they are easy to mount from drywall and metal profiles, or use wood and clay). Cover the walls with textured wallpaper (painted wallpaper, as they are also called), which you can make yourself. Various plasters are quite cheap. Wood trim looks great.

If you approach the matter competently and with soul, then the construction and arrangement of your own family nest will be inexpensive. The main thing is to clearly know what you can save on, and what is better not to do it.

What not to save

Do not save on technical supervision. Read at least a thousand articles on construction, but without experience you still won’t be able to control the quality and understand the essence of construction work. Engage an engineer or an experienced builder - in general, someone you would trust.
Don't skimp on communications. Heating, water supply, entrances to the yard and so on are necessary elements of a comfortable life. Do not neglect any of the systems!
Do not save on the project - it must be drawn up by a specialist, taking into account the climatic conditions of your area. Be sure to tie the project to specific building conditions. So, it often happens that the developer did not want to pay the designers for tying the foundation, having listened to the advice of the contractor (who is more expensive, the better), as a result of which the foundation turned out to be too large a margin of safety. Binding will minimize the cost of building the foundation of the house.

We also note that construction and design should be carried out by different people with different opinions and interests. This will allow you to make the right decision and avoid unnecessary expenses.

Video - How to build a house inexpensively

A suburban area is not only land with a garden and plantings. Many city dwellers come there for a good rest, so you need to have a house on the site. Not all summer residents have the opportunity to build a comfortable house on six acres. Many people get out of this situation by choosing the option of building an economy class house.

Inexperienced and novice summer residents are faced with the question of choosing cheap materials for construction. Below are examples of inexpensive and cozy country houses with visual photos.

Where to start building

Any construction begins with a plan on paper. A house outside the city is not intended for year-round use, but for the sake of comfort it requires familiarization with a typical project.

Among the projects of country houses in the lead with an attic or attic. This option allows you to abandon the construction on the site of the outbuildings. All inventory and working tools are stored in the attic. In addition to such a house, you can attach a veranda or terrace that acts as a dining room.

Strip foundation requires more time and cost. The positive side of it is that it allows you to use the room under the floor as a basement.

The next stage of preparation is the material of the "box" of the future building. There are several types of inexpensive and reliable building materials:

Frame-panel structures

The frame is mounted with a beam and sheathed with wooden boards of fiberboard or chipboard. Expanded polystyrene, glass wool or polystyrene are used as insulation. The result is a house with minimal costs, which can be operated all year round.

The house from a bar differs in the durability. Construction work will cost more. When using cheap timber, there is a chance of encountering the problem of shrinkage of the building. As a result, cracks and gaps appear. The log house will also have to be insulated.

A clay house is the cheapest and easiest construction option. Building materials are right under your feet. The construction technique is similar to clay modeling.

The downside is the building process that is too long in time. It will take several seasons to build a clay dwelling.

The trailer is common among newcomers to summer residents. The best option for living in the summer or during the construction of a comfortable home.

Construction of a frame structure

Frame construction belongs to the category of low-budget. It is not difficult to build a country house with your own hands without the help of specialists. If all the necessary materials are ready, the period of work will last several weeks.

To build a house you will need:

bars for the frame;
self-tapping screws and corners;
wooden boards chipboard or fiberboard;
insulation;
piles for the foundation.

Stages of building a frame house

At the marked places, piles are driven in the corners. Mount concrete or brick supports under the joints of the walls. Then they cover them with waterproofing material and tie them with a channel.

A lattice of bars is laid around the entire perimeter. Wooden logs are placed on top of it at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. All parts are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws.

Next, vertical racks are mounted, firmly resting on the bar grate. The finished frame is tied and attic logs are placed on top of it. Next comes the work on sheathing the frame with wooden slabs. At this stage, holes are left for windows and doors.

Now you need to decide on the choice of roof for a country house. Most summer residents choose gable and shed roofs. As an economy, the second option deserves more attention. When building a roof, do not forget about the vapor barrier. The roof will be inexpensive sheets of corrugated board or ondulin.

Facing the outside is done using siding. Before this, the outer walls are insulated with special materials. Instead of plastic windows, ordinary wooden ones without double-glazed windows are installed. This approach will significantly reduce the cost of construction.

With the help of simple and simple tips, a country house will be ready for use in less than a month. Those who do not have enough time for construction can contact a construction company, where they will offer to build a house for a turnkey summer house at an affordable price.

A few words about the interior

No matter how the house looks from the outside, inside the country house must meet all the requirements of our time. Gone are the days when a cottage in the country was used for cooking and lodging for the night.

Rest in the country - first of all, comfort and organization inside the house. There are many budget ways to satisfy the most desirable interior solutions.

Country - rustic style in the interior. Here you can not do without cabinets and shelves, curtained with curtains with embroidery. Crocheted napkins, tablecloths and rugs from old clothes will look good.

They acquire dachas in different ways - they inherit them, buy plots with a house and remake or complete them for themselves, or buy land in an almost open field and begin to develop virgin lands. Just such a process puzzled one of our craftsmen, who decided to join the suburban life. And since the most effective way to save money is to do it yourself, that's exactly what he did, starting small - with a summer house in the country "for the first time."

Country house 6×6 with a built-in terrace 4×3:
project;
foundation;
water supply;
box;
internal work.

Country house 6×6 with a built-in terrace 4×3

Gonzik1

Last year I bought a plot in the field (like a new holiday village). The poles were installed, electricity was brought to the site (it took about two months to complete the paperwork), they put a shield on the pole with a meter, an automatic machine and a socket. This year, having saved up some money, he began construction. I decided to do everything with my own hands, because it's cheaper and more reliable.

Do-it-yourself country house project

The craftsman created the cottage construction project during the winter with his own hands, according to his idea - this is the first module to which he will later add another one, combining both parts into a single structure. With the help of a special program, he made a drawing that made it possible to accurately calculate the required amount of building materials.

Foundation

Since the house is lightweight, using frame technology and on one floor, Gonzik1 gave preference to a columnar foundation of special concrete blocks (20 × 20 × 40 cm). Also, his choice was influenced by the low groundwater level (GWL) in the country and the excellent condition of such foundations under neighboring buildings. Depending on the level, I used one or two blocks per pole - I removed the fertile layer, poured a sand cushion, laid the blocks. The plane was held with the help of a hydraulic level. According to the craftsman, he appreciated this simple tool - it is cheap and the measurement accuracy is excellent. The pillars were covered with roofing material for waterproofing. With the help of relatives, the foundation was ready in three days.

Water supply

There is nowhere to take the central water supply in the field, so the problem of water supply is a personal matter for every summer resident. Our craftsman originally planned to drill a well. Trial drilling at thirty-six meters was unsuccessful - instead of water, dense black clay went. The drillers reported that only an artesian well of about ninety meters would help, voiced a sky-high price. Gonzik1 I got upset, imagining the scale of the problem, and decided to dig a well, as the foreseeable future showed - the right decision. Three days of work, ten rings - a column of water for one and a half rings, is restored in an hour and a half.

Box

The strapping is two-layered - at the bottom there is a board 100 × 50 mm, on top - 100 × 40 mm, impregnated with fire and biological protection, the strapping elements were connected to each other with nails (100 and 120 mm). The strapping was laid on top of the roofing material and fixed to the posts with anchors.

All frame posts were also assembled from a 100 × 40 mm board on nails, the walls were raised right in place using temporary jibs. On the ground they collected only a skate, after raising it to the roof. This stage took another four days.

Next, they mounted rafters, wind boards, pulled the wind protection, over the counter-lattice and crate. As a roofing, our craftsman chose metal tiles.

Gonzik1

I read that no matter which side the sheets are laid on, they are more often laid from left to right. It turned out that no, the tile is laid from right to left, otherwise the next sheet will have to be brought under the previous one, which is extremely inconvenient, especially when installing alone. The weather was not very good, it was drizzling, there was wind, he moved along the roof like a cat, trying to cling to the crate with his feet. All twelve sheets of tiles (115x350 cm) were laid in half a day.

After the tiles, hands reached the ground, because of which the floor logs were not fully laid. Gonzik1 I used a 50x50x4 mm corner, a 40x4 mm metal strip connection, plus a piece of self-supporting insulated wire (SIP).

Next, we covered the entire structure with a protective membrane, installed a door, laid a floorboard on the terrace, and proceeded to sheathing the facade with imitation timber. Cashing was immediately treated with protective impregnation. In the process of work, the craftsman made adjustments to the project - he made a third window, so there will be more light, and the view from the window is attractive.

Internal work

With the end of the holidays, the construction process slowed down as much as possible, since free weekends did not fall every week, but continued. I finished with the floor - rough on OSB logs, on top of a windproof membrane, between the logs of stone wool slabs, crate, and OSB again on it. The finish is linoleum. Also, the house got another window.

He brought electricity into the house, insulated the perimeter with stone wool, on top of a vapor barrier and lining as a cladding.

The finishing process continued according to the same algorithm, contrasting trims on the window openings added decorativeness to the house. All interior walls will be lined with clapboard.

Gonzik1

There are no plans for a stove, a house for seasonal residence - spring, summer, autumn. I plan to hang electric convectors, I have no problems with electricity there, three phases, a new substation, 15 kW per plot.

For all those interested, the craftsman posted the calculation of materials (the entire used board is 6 meters long):

foundation blocks 200×200×400 mm, 30 pieces;
board 50x100 mm, 8 pieces (for the bottom layer of the strapping);
board 40 × 100 mm, 96 pieces - about 8 pieces left;
board 25 × 10 mm, 128 pieces - about 12 pieces left;
timber 100 × 100 mm, 3 pieces;
rail 25×50 mm, 15 pieces;
timber imitation 18.5 × 146, 100 pieces - about 15 pieces left;
insulation, stone wool 1200 × 600 × 100 mm, 28 packs (6 boards each) - one pack left;
windproof membrane 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls;
vapor barrier 1.6 m wide, 60 m² per roll, 3 rolls - approx. 0.5 roll remaining;
OSB 3 2500 × 1200 × 9 mm, 15 pieces (rough and finishing floor) - about 1.5 slabs remain;
metal tile 350 × 115 cm, 12 sheets;
lining 12.5 × 96 cm, 370 pieces (10 packs) - not the fact that enough, partially used for filing the toilet, and the walls are not finished yet;
wooden windows 1000×1000 mm, 3 pieces;
entrance metal door 2050×900 mm, 1 piece;
protective impregnation for wood, 10 liters - the rest is 3 liters, but the house is covered with only one layer.

Taking into account independent construction and finishing, the estimate turned out to be quite budgetary.

Gonzik1

Foundation - 2500 rubles.
Boards on the frame, wind protection, vapor barrier, imitation of timber (exterior finish), lining (interior finish), insulation, etc. - 110,000 rubles.
Metal tile - 20,000 rubles.
Door - 13,200 rubles.
Windows - 4,200 rubles x 3 = 12,600 rubles.
Forwarding SIP to the house - 3000 rubles (with the cable itself).
Impregnation - 3600 rubles.

The electrician is just going to breed around the house, I think I’ll fit in 8-10 thousand. I don’t quote the cost of nails, screws, staples for a stapler, etc., because I don’t remember how much I bought. Total: about 165,000 rubles.

For another short but fruitful vacation, I finished with the electrics, finished the interior lining with clapboard and painting, made a set for the kitchen, completed the terrace. I laid a 100 × 40 mm board on the terrace, took an unplaned one, processed it with an electric planer, then covered it with impregnation in two layers. Over the past winter, everything is in place, nothing has led, it has not dried up and is not warped. The craftsman plans to finish building the second block, but this test of the pen is up to the mark - an excellent cottage for a family vacation.